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brothers della Robbia; the Vision of St., tury, Luca Guerci, has unluckily added John, by Conca; the Annunciation, by a St. Anthony; a Visitation and HeVini, one of bis good works; the fine rodias dancing, by Melissi, a good group of the Divine Virtues, which Florentine painter of the seventeenth sopports the holy-water vase, by Giovanni century. Pisano.

The bishop's Palace, sumptuous and The door of the church of Saint Paul convenient, built in 1787 by ihe famous is perbaps by Giovanni Pisano, as well Scipione Ricci, would hardly be supposed as the little slalue set on the triangular the abode of a reformer, and its magnisummit of the front. The Christ in a ficence contrasts in a singular manner glory and St. Gaetan is a boasted work with the severe doctrines of Port Royal, of the Neapolitan painter De' Malteis. which Ricci had allempled to transplant Fra Paolino del Signoraccio has imitated beyond the Alps. some beads from his illustrious master The seminary, of a much more bumble Fra Bartolommeo, in his Virgin on a aspect, was also built by Ricci. An anthrone in the midst of saints, among cient church, from Vitoni's designs, is whom he is said to have placed the por-made its chapel. trait of ibeir famous brocher Dominican Al the high altar of Santa Maria degli Savonarola.

Angeli is an Annunciation, by Luli, an The church of Saint Dominick has excellent work unnoticed by Lanzi, and some few works by the first masters in for some time attributed to Guido. painting and sculpture.

The Virgin The grand arch of Saint Francis, by a tith the infant Jesus in her arms, a German architect, although of 1294, is fresco by Fra Bartolommeo; St. Charles not in ogive. Saint Francis contains the Borromeo raising a child from the tomb of ihe learned physician, naturalist, dead, by Empoli, containing portraits of and agricultural writer Carradori, by the Rospigliosi family; the tombs of the Prato, one of the most zealous propagaparents of Clement IX., by Bernini; alors, in Italy, of vaccination, which he Cruciprion with the Virgin, St. John had essayed on his own son. This church and St. Thomas Aquinas, who is em- and the convent offer some good and bracing the cross with enthusiasm ; thc curious paintings : the Annunciation, by Adoration of the Magi, by Fra Paolino, Baldi, in which the erudite painter has #ho bas painted bimself in the latter drawn the Virgin standing, the Hebrew picture ; St. Dominick receiving the mode of praying; a Nativity. by an rosary from the Virgin, by the third unknown author, for grace and sweclness Bronzino, who is seen in the background worthy of Andrea del Sarto; a Purifiviolently disputing about the price of the cation, by Poppi, pleasing in expression paintiog with the sacristan of the convent, and colouring; in the antique chapel of who appears ollerly unmoved; the ele- Saint Louis, in the sacristy, ihe amazingly gant lomb of the professor of law Lazzari, preserved frescos of Puccio Capanna, by Bernardo Rossellini, which has an pupil of Giollo, nearly all whose paintexpressive and well composed basso-ings have perished ; a St. Francis on relievo representing his class; an As-gold, by Lippo Memmi, from Simone's sumption, by Matteo Rosselli; a St. Mi- designs; the Resurrection of Lazarus, chaél, by Francesco Romanelli; in the by the second Bronzino, who has represacristy, the Virgin, St. Catherine of sented the donor Sozzisanti under the Siena, Magdalen, and St. Dominick, by features of the Frate; the Marriage of Fra Paolino; St. Sebastian, St. Jerome Cana, by Pagani, finished by bis pupil and a bishop of the order oftbe Gesuali, Matteo Rosselli; a Virgin, after Guido, by Ghirlandajo.

by his beloved and unfortunate pupil The church of Saint John the Baptist Elisabella Sirani, a beautiful copy which is anotber fine structure by the great has been struck by lightning and seems architect of Pistoja, Vitoni. Among the in conformity with the artist's destiny ; paintings may be remarked : a Virgin the frescos of the monks' chapter room, on a throne, by Fra Paolino, to which a in the first cloister, executed in 1386, by sorry painter or Pistoja of the last cen- Capanna.

* See ante, book vill. ch. vl.

An order founded in 1367 by Saint John Colombini of Siena, aod suppressed in 1968 by Clement IX.

The antique church of Saint Andrew, the manuscripts of the famous canon of rebuilt inside in 1619, though the front Pistoja Sozomeve, the companion of is of 1166, has on the architrave, over Bruni Aretino and Poggio in the learoed the principal door, a curious monument researches of the monastery of Saint Gall, of the same epoch, the Adoration of the where he exhumed and transcribed ibe Magi, a basso-relievo by Gruamonte; Commentary of Asconius Pedianus on below, another sculptor, Eorico of Pistoja, some of Cicero's orations ; which copy is a pupil of Giovanni Pisano, has repre- among the manuscripts. The first edilion sented the Visitation and an Annun- of the Croce racquistata, by the poet of ciation : the Virgin in the latter has an Pistoja, Francesco Bracciolini, exhibits embryo on her breast, to express the his autograph corrections, wbich served sudden and positive effect of the miracle. for the second. A bust appears the portrait of Gruamonte; An apartment of the Pistoja Academy the small stalue of St. Andrew, on the of Sciences, Leiters, and Arts, has a find outside, is by Giovanni Pisano. His painting by Beccafumi, the Virgin on d celebrated pulpit is but an inferior imita- throne with divers saints, and a retion of the one at Saint John the Evan- markable Annunciation, in two pictures gelist. The St. Francis de Paule, by by Santi Titi. ihe third Bronzino, is a youthsul per Several of the houses of Pistoja, th formance.

dwellings of distinguished men, perpe

luale literary names and recollections CHAPTER IV.

and offer good collections of painting

and books. Pretorio palace.-Palace della Communità.--Forte Baron Bracciolini has received by iob guerri.-Library.- Academy.-Houses. ritance a duplicate of Poussin's Death

Germanicus,' really by the hand of th The Pretorio palace, now a court or illustrious painter, and sent by him fro justice, was buili in 1368 on the houses Rome as a present to a Puccini, who h. of the Taviani and Bracciolani. Its ex attended bim when he fell ill on passii terior is picturesque, and the antique through Pistoja. staircase is of remarkable architecture. In the chapel of the palace of Prin

The palace della Communità, formerly Giuseppe Rospigliosi, ihe fresco of l! degli Anziani, is of the close of the thir- History of St. Catherine, good in c leenth century. The black marble head louring, by Giovanni di San Giovani near the middle window, is that of a comprises the portraits of all that famil traitor to his country, Filippo Tedici, the The Bracciolini house contains the fi tyrant of Pisloja, who married Dialla, Annunciation, by Filippo Lippi the daughter of Castruccio Castracani. elder, praised by Vasari, and ordered Several similar heads without busts exist the artist by Messer Jacopo Belluq elsewhere as marks of ignominy, and that whom be has very naturally painted th of the glorious Grandonio, one of the in the person of the ecclesiastic read captains who aided the Pisaps in the behind the angel. conquest of the Balearic isles, has been The Golbic house of the Cancell wrongly confounded with them. The an historical Italian family now exti iron mace is reputed to have belonged to has a pig in relievo, on the exterior, i this valorous Pistojan, whose gigantic | the graceful chisel of Donatello. form, painted in clare-obscure, is in one The Tolomei house, once a conve of the rooms, with a barbarous quatrain nuns of Saint Michael, has a ga in bis honour. On the top of stairs is an painted in distemper by our clever old portrait in clare-obscure, by Cino. venerable Boguet, one of those Fr The palace della Communità, therefore, artists that Rome and Italy, where h combines the political, warlike, and resided more than fifty years, hay poetic reminiscences of Pistoja.

well inspired, and five great fresc The Sapienza includes the public Desmarais, another Frenchman, schools. This college takes its name or died a few years since, president Forteguerri from Cardinal Nicolao the Lucca Academy of Fine Arts, gille elder, who, in 1473, devoted a conside- invention and disposition, but feel rable sum to the instruction of youth. The library, rather superior, possesses

1 Sce ante, book xy. ch. xxslii.

esecution. A library of ancient and and sculptures. The St. John, over the modern books, very select, is duly sup- holy-water vase, is by Luca della Robplied with modern works by the Cav. bia. The mausoleum of Baltassare TuTolomei, the accurate annotator of bis rini, the elegant creator of the Lante country's monuments of art.

villa,' passes for the best work of RaThe bouse of the Cav. Bracciolini dall' | pbael da Monte Lupo, who successfully Api lakes this latter appellative from imitated the style of his master Michael the permission to add the bees of the Angelo. An excellent Deposition from Barberinito his arms, which was obtained the cross, by Passignano, has been inis a reward for the poem in_twenty- judiciously varnished. The great Asthree cantos composed by Francesco sumption of the choir, noble, well Bracciolini in honour of the Election of draped, is the masterpiece ol Gazzi, a [rban VIII., which poem was afterwards painter of Pistoja. The majestic high tit mented on by another pope, Cle- altar in marble, from the design of meat IX. This house, called Castello Vacca, a sculptor of Carrara, was erected Traetto. bas in its garden a fine bust by by the musician Grossi of Pescia, oddly Algardi, representing Bracciolini, in his called Syphax. poeins of the Croce racquistata and the Lucca is as the chief town of that kind Scherno degli Dei, a kind of distant rival of prefecture given by Europe to a grandof Tasso and Tassoni.

son of Louis XIV. Ils situation in a Tbe Forteguerri house, wbich has a plain almost enclosed by mountains, les paintings, was the cradle of the two near the banks of the Serchio and the men who have thrown most lustre on canal of Ozzori, is charming. Several Pistoja, Cardinal Nicolao the elder, and of its churches and palaces are very inibe author of Ricciardetto, himself the teresting as works of art. son of a Jacopo Forteguerri, an elegant The vast cathedral of Saint Martin baiater and excellent citizen of Pistoja. dates from the year 1060, and the exle

rior front of three stories, by the sculptor CHAPTER Y.

Guidelio, is of 1204. A lunelte, over

the little door, has a Deposilion from 1.ate Catiai–Pescia.-Lucca.- Cathedral.-May

the cross, by Nicolao Pisano, expressive

and well composed; and the architrave $0:20 of Pietro da Noceto, by Civitall.- Archives. List Alexander.- Saint Romanus.- Saint Mi an esteemed Adoration of the Magi, by chiet-Clerks of tbe Mother of God.--Saint Fredian. his son Giovanni. The interior of the -saiat Francis.- Castruccio Castracaoi. – Cas-church is principally ornamented with trucsa Buonamici.

the chefs-d'æuvre of the great Lucchese

sculptor, Matteo Civitali, whose works The ancient baths of Monte Catini, are nearly all confined 10 Lucca and recommended by Cesalpine in his day, Genoa, and who seems like the transienjoy a deserved repulation. The build- lion from the true art of the fourteenth ing sith arcades, an elegant and cor- century to the ideal of the lifteenth. rect strocture, is by Paolelii, the restorer, | The following are by him : the pulpit, be Vien of architecture in Tuscany remarkable for the taste of its ornacoder Leopold; but it is little suited to ments; the noble and elegant mausoleum this kind of baths. It is particularly to of Pietro da Noceto, of Lucca, secretary be regretted that the different springs to Pope Nicholas V., the Bembo of that and their conduits are not covered to premature Leo X.; the portrait in marble preserve the warmth of the water which of bis Mecænas and friend Count Domefuses to twenty-six degrees (Réaumur). nico Berlini, a little exquisile work; two Redi was of opinion that the baths of graceful and pious angels kneeling beMoole Catini were principally eficacious fore the tabernacle in the chapel of ibe in dysepleries, and he thought that it was Holy Sacrament; the basso-relievos of rare for any person to die at Florence the allar of St. Regulus, bishop of Lucca, of that disease.

who is there seen in pontifical robes silPescia, an industrious town, in a pic- ting between two angels each holding laresque situation, has five thousand in- an open volume for him ; a small octahabitants. The elegant cathedral built gonal temple, seventeen years anterior an 1693 by the Florentine architect ferri, has some remarkable paintings

See ante, book wv. ch. unvil.

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to Bramante's at Saint Peter in Mon- 1 of this architrave seems perfectly unin
torio; and lastly, the ideal statue of St. telligible. A Christ on the cross ar
Sebastian, imilated by Perugino and the Virgin at its foot, wilb St. Franc
regarded as the masterpiece of Civitali. and a nun, is a good painting by Frat
The tomb of Illaria del Carello, wise cesco Vanni.
of Paulo Guinigi, by Jacopo della Quer Saint Alexander is remarkable for tl
cia, is a composition at once simple and simplicity of its Lombard front; the il
elegant. A marble sarcophagus of Greek terior of the church has some antiq
workmanship represents Bacchus on a capitals and columns that must have b
car drawn by Centaurs, conducted by longed 10 a Roman edifice.
Cupid, and escorted by Faups and Bac Saint Romanus, an old church oft
chantes. The allar of Liberty was con- Dominicans, rebuilt in the seventeer
secrated to Christ in 1369 by the Luc- century, has two inasterpieces by !
chese, whom the emperor Charles IV., | Bartolommeo, admirable for design a
stimulated only by their gold, had de- colouring, for grandeur, grace and ha
livered from the Pisan yoke; the grand mony : the Virgin imploring Chr
statues, larger than nalure, of Christ for the people of Lucca, so misapp
raised from the dead, with Peter and ciated by Vasari, who states the Vir
Paul, by Giovanni of Bologna, are not to be seated ; and the Eternal Fath
free from affectation both in the attitudes St. Mary Magdalen and St. Cather
and draperics. Among the paintings of Siena, the two raised from the gro
may be remarked : a Last Supper, by as if in ecstasy.
Tintoretto, which, notwithstanding some The church of the Holy Crucifix
defect in perspective, has some angels in bianchi, so called from the sacred in
the upper part perfect; a Crucifixion, by lest in this church in 1377 by the W
Passignano; St. Peter and St. Paul, in Penitents who came from Spain, ha
the sacristy, by Ghirlandajo; the Virgin, cnergetic Assumption, by Spagnol
St. Stephen and St. John, and a delight- and a St. Bartholomew, by Batoni,
ful little Angel playing on a lute, an er head of which is pretty good, but
cellent composition for design, expres- attitude rather constrained.
sion, and colouring, by Fra Bartolom The church dedicated to Saint Pa
mco ; a tender Visitation, by Ligozzi; nus, the first bishop of Lucca, who
the Presentation in the temple, by the fered inartyrdom under Nero, is
second Bronzino, and the fresco of the the designs of Baccio da Montelup
Volto Santo, an antique picture greatly clever Florentine artist of the sixte
venerated at Lucca, by Cosmo Rosselli. century, long established in this 1

The chapter archives and the arch A Virgin and several saints, i
bishop's hold the first rank among the Vanni; a Martyrdom of St. Theo
bistorical treasures that Italy can boast. expressive, by Testa, surnamed
The former contain more than four thou- chesino, the friend of Poussin, a di
sand parchment diplomas, the oldest of ful and unfortunate artist, who, fra
which dates from the year 774; the li- cident or despair, perished in the
brary, bequeathed in 1503 by the bishop An old painting, in the sacrist
Felino Sandei, has some precious manu- | Crowning of the Virgin with
scripts and scarce editions of the fifteenth saints, the town of Lucca in the n
century. The archbishop's archives com and in front a bishop kneeling
prise about ten thousand diplomas, of warrior with an orange at his
which three hundred belong to the eighth perhaps the one ordered of Gic
century, and two to the seventh, one Castruccio Castracani, although
of 686, the other of 685; the latter is per- tails do not precisely agree with 1
haps the oldest in Italy.

cription given by Vasari, who, Saint John and its vast baptistry ap- is not always a very close observ pear of the epoch of the Lombards; the The piazza of Saint Michael, tl Virgin and the twelve Apostles, of the market, is rather imposing. architrave, over the grand portal, a The church is remarkable for sculpture of the end of the twelfth rior, still untouched,of the bastard century, though still rude, shows by the architecture of the Lombards, tha relief that the revival had in some having the warljke archangel 1 measure begun : the Latin inscription patron. The front, with a qu

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colonnade, is bowever very inferior. | Lombards, is one of the most characteFour figures, by the younger Lippi, al ristic monuments in Italy, as the interior, the chapel of the Crucifix, are natural still in the simple, bastard Roman style and graceful.

in use among that people, has not been On the architrave of the side door of allered as in the churches of Monza and the old church of Saint Saviour is a Mi-Pavia. The front, of much later date, racle of St. Nicholas the Priest, still being only of the twelfth century, has a rude, bul displaying a kind of progress Christ in a glory, worshipped by two in the forms and the relief : it is by Bi- angels, a fine mosaic of the same epoch, duino, one of those Lombard artists that and below the twelve Apostles, but far Nourished a short time before Nicolao from being of so large a style. The Pisano. The Ascension, by the elder eleven columns of the middle nave, anZacchia, a good painter of Lucca in the tique, as well as their pedestals and casixteenth century, is not of his best pitals, some of which are even Greek, works, the artist having aimed at a must have belonged to a Roman edifice: broader style than nalural to him. they are singularly slender, and it is

Santa Maria in corte Landini has : a quite a prodigy that they should have Nativity of the Virgin, by Yanni; the supported a wall and arches so lofty for Birth of John the Baptist, by Pietro more than eleven centuries. The marPaolini, of Lucca, a happy imitator of ble basin which was used for baptism by Paolo Veronese; a Christ on the cross immersion, on which are sculptured with trco saints below. by Guido, wbich divers subjects of the old Testament, is combines his two manners; bis graceful a curious work of the end of the twelfth Madonna della neve; an Assumption, century. The elegant baptistry, by Niby Luca Giordano. The church and colao Civitali, bespeaks him a worthy convent belong to the regular clerks of nephew of Matteo. The Virgin crowned the Mother of God, an educational con- by the Eternal Father, with four saints gregation instituted about the close of the below, by Francesco Francia, is remarksisteenth century, by Giovanni Leonardi, able for the heads, the colouring, and of Diecimo, a village in the Lucchese ter-drapery. The figures in demi-relievo ritory, which has produced some learned by Jacopo della Quercia, in the chapel men, and excellent Latinists, such as the of the Holy Sacrament, though he somecelebrated P. Bartolommeo Beverini, the times bad a broader style, are nevertheLivy of Lucca, one of the able Italian less beautiful; the sculpture of his two translators of the Eneid,' a precocious sepulchral stones of the Trenta fainily is scholar, who as early as his fifteenth year very good. One cannot belp regretling bad written comments on the principal the degraded state of the excelleni frescos authors of the Augustan age. This con- in the chapel of Saint Augustine, by Ami gregation was spared in the general sup- | Aspertini, a compatriot and clever pupil pression of convents by the French ad- of Francia.. ministration. It possesses a library of The elegant front of the antique church about twenty thousand volumes, be- of Saint Peter Somaldi is of 1203, and queathed in part by the learned P. Gio- the basso-relievo of the architrave provanni Domenico Mansi, asterwards arch- bably by Guidelio. Two paintings are bishop of Lucca; the apartment is de- remarkable, St. Anthony the abbot and coraled with his portrait, a good work other saints, by the elder Palma, vigoby Batoni, who was also of Lucca. rous in expression and colouring; and

The present architecture of Saint Au- an Assumption, by the elder Zacchia. gustine is of 1324. The Virgin with Two tombs in the church of Saint dicers saints, by Paolini, is a new and Francis bear witness to the poetic and able imitation of Paolo Veronese. The martial glory of Lucca. The first is that Annunciation, by the elder Zacchia, of Giovanni Guidiccioni, his best poet, bas some little figures in clare-obscure the friend of Annibale Caro, a harmoworthy of Polidoro di Caravaggio. Thenious imitator of Petrarch, and who, Epiphany, by Gessi, is graceful and well with the platonic love then in vogue, drawn.

could like bim give vent to noble songs Saint Frediaous, an old basilic of the on the ills and oppression of Italy. The

See ante, book xvn. ch. iv.

• See ante, book vill. ch. .

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