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Bramante or Gobbo. The Martyrdom | Laurence, the Beheading of St. John, of St. Nazarius and St. Celsus, a Des- the Fall and the Death of St. Paul ; cent from the Cross, are by Cesare Pro the Baptism of the same saint; the caccini, who also made the two marble Miracle of the dead man brought to angels putting the crown on the Virgin's life, a Nativity, by Antonio; the Virgin, head. 'Two Martyrdoms of St. Cathe- the Infant Jesus, St. Joseph, and some rine are by Cerano. The great painting other figures, by Giulio; the Saviour of the altar is very fine; it is by Paris giving the keys to St. Peter. by Bernar. Bordone, as well as the two propbets and dino, who does not seem of this family. St. Roch painted in fresco, above and The church of Saint Euphemia, rebelow. The Resurrection of the Sa-markable for its beautiful portico of the viour, easy and original, is by Antonio Ionic order in front, bas : the Adoration Campi. The St. Marimus, an Assump- of the Magi, by Fernando Porta. an tion, the Christ leaving his mother at unequal painter and an imitator of Corthe moment of the Passion,-a painting reggio; à Presentation in the temple, wbich, according to Lanzi, loses nothing sublime and well designed, by an unby being placed near the best Lombard known hand; and the picture of the Vire works in this church,—are by Urbini. gin, with angels and saints, one of the The Baptism of Christ, accurate and best works of Marco d' Aggiono. graceful, with a very fine glory of an- The basilick of Saint Nazarius, built gels, is by Gaudenzio Ferrari; a St. in 382, received the body of the saint Jerome seated, by Calisto Piazza ; the from Saint Ambrose. Before entering Conversion of St. Paul, superb, by this edifice, you must cross the mausoMorelto, who contrary to his custom has leum of Giovanni Jacopo Trivulzio and signed it, as if he attached particular his family; opposite the door, and almost importance to this picture; an Assump- midway between the lofty ceiling and tion, by Camillo Procaccini. A St. Se- the floor, is the tomb of ibis adventurous bastian is allributed to Correggio. A Italian,--this celebrated marshal, who group of angels well disposed is by Pam- created the French militia, and died in filio Nuvolone. There are some small disgrace at Chartres or Arpajon as a loru figures in claro-obscuro executed in per- of the French court, -and on it is inscribsection by Giovanni da Monte, a pupil or ed the epitaph composed by himself :Titian.
Joannes Jacobus Trivultius, Antonii The frescos on the cupola by Appiani, filius, qui nunquam quievit, quiescit. representing the four Evangelists and Tace. The other lombs of ibe family, the four fathers of the Church, with an- seven in number, are of the same beight. gels and clouds, are one of the most The effect of these great suspended stone etherial and most boasted productions of coffins is very singular; they really seem this brilliant decorator.
as if they aspired to bear even to the The statues put in the niches are by skies the magnifique témoignage de the clever Lorenzo Stoldi, with the ex- notre néant;', but these tombs are ception of the St. John by Fontana, who emply, and in accordance with the rule is also the author of the statues and established by the council of Trent res basso-relievos in the chapel of the Virgin. pecting burial, Saint Charles had the The stalls of the choir, of great beauty, bones of the Trivulzio transferred to the were designed by Galeas Alessi.
vaults under the cburch. At one of the The elegant front of St. Paul's is by chapels the tomb of Manfred Sellala, a Cerano, not less clever in architecture mechanician, somewhat pompously surthan in paioting; the nave is probably named the Archimedes of Milan, a man by Galeas Alcssi. St. Charles and st. whose travels and whole life were deAmbrose is one of the irreprochable voted to the sciences, letters, and arts, productions of Cerano, and even superior contrasts with the warlike tomb of the for colouring to the after-mentioned paint. | Trivulzio. The paintings are : an Asings by the Campi, who however are sin- | sumption, by Lanzani, and four large gularly brilliadi in this church. These and good paintings of Giovanni da Monte paintings are : the Martyrdom of St. in the inner portal; a very fine Last
at the exhibition of tbe Academy of fine arts a! Milao.
mupper by Bernardino Lanino, an imi- 1 sculptor, and highly-spoken of as an enLaloon of ihe one by Gaudenzio Ferrari. graver, very much admired by Benvebis master, at the church della Passione. nuto Cellini, who knew him at Rome.
The chapel of Saint Catherine, ad- The miraculous picture of the Virgin is joining Saint Nazarius, and built after of the eleventh century: the act of the the design of Bramante, is still remark- madman who stabbed this image is by able for the espressive and picturesque the cavaliero Perrazzini, a good painter frescos, executed in 1516, by Bernardino of Ancona, who died at Milan, and who Lanino, representing the Martyrdom of was an imitator of the Carracci and the Saint, and wbich leave nothing to Guido; the Flight into Egypt, by Fedebe wished, except a little more attention rico Bianchi. št. Philip de Neri, pleasto the drapery; by a whim then cominon ing and well desigoed, passes for one of among artists, the painter has represent- the best paintings of Peroni. In another ed below his master Gaudenzio Ferrari, sacristy are some ancient paintings and in his usual dress, disputing with another a St. Barnabas, attributed to Beltraflio, of bees pupils. J. B. de la Cerva, while he an amateur and good Milanese painter birascif in a black cap is attentively lis- of the sixteenth century, the pupil of tening to them.
Leonardo. Saint Antony the Abhot is extremely remarkable for its paintings. The roof
CHAPTER IV. is by the brothers Carloni of Genoa, able fresco painters of the seventeenth cen
Saint Sebastian. --Saint Alexander in Zebedia.-Paul tory, who also worked in the choir with
Frizi.-Saint Eustorge.--Mausoleum of Saint Peler
tbe Martyr.-George Merula.--Santa Maria della Moncalvo, whose St. Paul the Hermit
Viltoría.-Columns, church of Salat Laurence. maintains an bporable rank beside their
Monastero Maggiore. works. A Conception, charming, is by Ambrose Figini : St. Charles with the The church of Saint Sebastian, foun'ed body nail, by For Galizia, a clever female by Saint Charles, from the plans of PelDa inter of the early part of the seven-legrino, is one of the most splendid arteruih centary. A Nativity, the Tempo chitectural monuments in Milan. The taision of St. Anthony, are by Camillo Martyrdom of the saint, by Bramante, Promaccini; a Descent from the Cross, is the best of his paintings in this city, * Resurrection, by Malosso. The Christ and refutes the opinion of Cellini, who tarrying his Cross, is by the younger said that he had no talent for painting. Palma : an Annunciation, by Cesare | The Annunciation, the Massacre of the Procacrini, a graceful masterpiece, per- Innocents, by Joseph Montalto, recall haps too graceful, in which ihe mutual The elegance and grace of Guido, his and almost roguish smile of the Angel master. St. Charles, St. Philip, a Cruand the Virgin appears somewhat out of cifir with the Virgin, St. John and pisce St. Gaetanus, an Assumption. Magdalene, are by Francesco Bianchi are by Ceruse. The Virgin, the infant and Antonio Ruggieri, painters of the Jesus, St. Catherine, St. Paul, a beau- eighteenth century, inseparable artists, tfel camposition, is by Bernardino who have left a better example of concord Campe: the glory of angels was added and friendship than of taste. by ramubo Procacrini. An Holy Ghost, Saint Alexander in Zebedia, in spite Je-was. but faint in the colouring, is of the abominable laste of the front, is by stentino. A Nativity, by Apni rich and magnificent. Divers incidents bala Carratio, appears scarcely' worthy in the Life of the saint and of other that irrat master. The Adoration of inartyrs, the Trinity, several subjects the Mag. by Morazzone, has all the er from the Old Testament, on the roof, in fert zod lusory of drapery of the Vene- the choir, and at the high altar, are large tian masters,
and sublime paintings by Federico Bian. The sacristy of the church of Saint chi, Philip Abbiali, and of his expeditious Satynias, in the shape of a little octagonal popil, Pietro Maggi. The paintings in temple, is (amed as a work of art : the à chapel adorned with exquisite sculparchanteriore, by Bramante, is worthy of Tures, and (wo others relating to the hom. the brads, larger than nature, and Life of St. Alerander, pleasing works, the little children, are the distinguished rull of expression, although somewhat performances of Caradosso, a clever elaborate, are by Agostino Saint Agos
lino, the cleverest of the three Saint | sons, Stephen, who by his courage Agostini. A good Nativity, the As, contributed to retrieve his father's sumption, and a Crucifixion, are by tune. The allar of the first chape Camillo Procaccini. There is a chapel three compartments, representing painted by Ludovico Scaramuccia, a dis- Virgin, the Infant Jesus, St. Ja linguished pupil of Guido and Guercino; and St. Henry, is a good painting he was also a writer on the arts, being the Ambrosio Borgognone : the head o author of the book entitled Le Finezze last saint is the best. The very fine de' pennelli italiani(on the superiority of of the chapel of Saint Vincent is by C the Italian pencil). The Beheading of Urbini. The chapel erected in 1307 St. John the Baptist, the Adoration Cassone Torrione, in which his son of the Magi, very fine, in the sacristy, are tin reposes, has a Beheading of St. Jo by Daniel Crespi : the roof, composed of in good keeping, although executed graceful little angels, is by Moncalvo. the hands of threc painters, Cesare, Saint Alexander contains a splendid inillo, and Antonio Procaccipi. 1h tomb, erected to the memory of the ce are some fine frescos by Daniel Cresp lebrated mathematician and natural phi-the chapel of the Annunciation. losopher Paul Frisi by Count Pietro bodies of the three Magi, which are Verri, a noble Milanese, like this Barna- worshipped at Cologne, were in a cha bite, a partisan and propagator of new at Saint Eustorge, whence they w notions on social improvement.
taken, in the invasion of Federico B Saint Eustorge, uniformly restored by barossa, by the archbishop of Colo Ricchini, is one of the oldest churches in who accompanied the conqueror. Milan. On the outside, at the entrance. the wall of this chapel is a basso-reli is the pulpit, a kind of large stone gal- in marble of the Passion, a work of lery, from which, according to the in- | Courteenth century, author unkno scription, Saint Peter the Martyr refuted which is destitute of neither simpli the heretics of his time. These religious nor grace, and shows that the arts at t traditions are touching; no one knows early period had made great progress what has become of the pulpits of Bos- | Lombardy. The collin which held suet and Massillon ; The religious faith of doubtful and pompous relic still rema the middle ages was less indifferent and at Saint Eustorge with the strange inser ungrateful to its great men than the ra lion :-Sepulchrum trium Magoru tionalism of our enlightened civilisation. Near the sacristy is the tomb of Geor The mausoleum of this saint, executed Merula, the pupil and mortal enemy by Giovanni di Balduccio of Pisa, is a Philelphus; the adversary of Politia very curious remnant of the art in the Calderino, and Galeotti Marzio; one fourteenth century. It is the master- | the best and most disputatious schola piece of one of those primitive artists of the revival of the arts, who trea who were so full of nature and truth; printing as a barbarous invention (bo the Gothic Caryatides which represent barum inventum), a paradox since ma the different virtues of the saint and sup- tained by other Merulas less erud port the whole structure, are a combina- that this laborious critic and historia iion of boldness and grace ; 1bc oddity of The tomb of this good hater was, he some of the details belongs to the epoch ever, erected to his memory by a frien and not to the artist, and this work would his pupil, the poet Lancinus Curtiu be perfect if imagination at that period the inscription he has put thereon is er had been regulated by taste. The archi- somewhat touching.' Lecture of the chapel of Saint Peter, The church of Santa Maria de founded by Pigello Portioari, a clerk of Vittoria owes its naine to the victi Cosmo di Medici, seems by Michelozzi : gained near it by the Milanese over a painting of the lime represents the emperor Louis the Bavarian. Thou pious and industrious founder kneeling not finished on the outside, it is of bea before the saint; the ceiling is one of the tiful architecture, and thought to be fine frescos of ihe elder Civerchio. A Bernini. There are two remarkal mausoleum ornamented with columns supported by lions, of the close of the I Viri allis inter spinas, muodique procellas, thirteenth century, was devoted by Mal Nunc hospes coll Murula vivo mibi, thew Visconti the Great to one of bis Lapciaus Curtius f. amicus posuit.
paintings : St. Charles administering | mante, has a wonderful effect in the perthe communion to persons smilten with spective : the legs of the Saviour, from the plague, by Giacinto Brandi; and whatever point they are viewed, seem St. Peter delivered from prison, a turned towards the spectator, the first inpainting executed at Rome, where the stance of this kind of tour de force which author, Ghisolti, an excellent perspective has since been so frequently attempted. painter. was attending the lessons of Io the subterranean oratory, made faSalvator Rosa. The angels supporting mous by the servent meditations of Saint this painting are an excellent production Charles, the Christ crowned with thorns of Abtonio Raggi, called the Lombard, is an admirable work of Bernardino a dever pupil of Bernini.
Luini. " Some statues of burnt clay, by The sateen antique columns of Saint | Caradosso, representing the Virgin in Laurence, uniform and placed abreast, a swoon at the sight of her dead son, etbibu a superb wreck and prove the with the Marys and some saints, form a grandeur, the importance, and the magni- very pathetic scene. fredre of Milan in the olden time. These On the heavy front of Saint Mary Dragusal columns, probably transferred Porta, the basso-relievo in marble of from some antique edifice to their present the Crowning of the Virgin is a fioe post'90, are even higher than those of the work by Carlo Simonetta, who has also Panthera : one might really imagine in the interior a good Magdalene, to them erected there as a portico to the whom an angel is administering the ruits and ancient monuments of Italy. communion. There is a St. Joseph
The present cburch of Saint Laurence by Ludovico Quaini, a distinguished was rebuilt by Saint Charles from the pupil and imitator of Guercino and Cig. bold and noble designs of Martino Bassi. nani ; tbe Adoration of the Magi in the The Baptism of Christ by Aurelio chapel of the Madonna is by Camillo Luini seems worthy of Bernardino; the Procaccini. Assumption is by Rivola, one of the best The church of Saint Maurice, or the pupe's of Abbiati. The chapel of Saint | Monastero Maggiore, the marble front Antbay was painted by Federico Bian- of which, simple and in good taste, is atcht. Legnani, Molina, Vimercati, ibe last tributed to Bramantino, has many admiacteres pupil of Ercole Procaccini. A rable frescos of Bernardino Luini ; the Visitation, by Biancbi, is altogether principal of them represent the Apostles, urthy of this lavoured disciple of Cesareihe Flagellation of the Saviour, and Procurini. The chapel of Saint Aquila divers incidents in the lives of Martyrs. has a martyrdom of St. Hippolytus and The Adoration of the Magi, at the high $1. Conan, by Ercole Procaccini. In altar, by Antonio Campi, á Deposing the artisty. Jesus Christ appearing to of the Cross, by Piazza, are excellent St. Thomas, by Giambattista della Cer- performances. va, eipsive, animated, and harmoniOUL, the of the best paintings of Gau
CHAPTER V. denzo Ferrari's school. Sup! George al Palazzo, an old
Saint Ambro e - Ancient and modern pulpits. eburcb restored, takes ils lille, it is said,
Serpent.-- Palioit. - Mosaic.- Anspert.-Cbapel from the ancient palace of Trajan or of Murcellina.-Missal.--Nonastery. Maumian having been in its vicinity. There is a St Jerome by Gaudenzio The church of Saint Ambrose, the Ferrari The different sutijects of the oldest monument of Christian antiquity Pannon, painted by Bernardino Luini at Milan), erected in 387, by the great and his perils, present a happy effect of saint whose name it bears, presents a light The countenance of the Saviour real chaos of arcbitecture: these works to the Flagellation is admirably affecting. of various and remote ages compose a
Overibir portal of Saint Sepuletre, the shocking medley: the Italian architects Dead Canse between the Marys, a fresco are loo often guilly of the fault of not by Bramantido, the favorite pupil of Bra. paying attention io the primitive cha
s prerioas frescos of this great master, bis ibliber in 1786 froin ibe oratory of the bospltal of
supla, are preveried to an adjacent house, tlor Holy Crowat, which was removed at that time. with ing elibe Cross of Malta, they were taken
racter of the edifices when repairing on a column the famous brazen serpent them, which is never the case with good that some have gone so far as to take for architects in France.. Before the church the one Moses raised in the desert, or at is one of those spacious courts wbich the least made of the same metal, and on architects of the middle ages had already which the learned have discussed at such imitated from those of antiquity, and a prodigious length. The populace are wbich are found before many of the Ita- persuaded that it will hiss at the end of Jian churches. It was there ibat, during the world; and the sexton one day in the existence of paganism, the profane dusting it having somewhat deranged it, remained, and where, in aftertimes, the the alarm become general when the omirigorous public penances of the early nous reptile was seen turned towards ages of the church took place. There is the door; it was necessary to put it rigbt something religious in the aspect of these immediately, in order to allay the terold porticoes, and they nobly separate rors of those who already thought they the sanctuary from the tumult of cities. heard it. Some portions of this portico of the ninth Such is the antiquity of the monuments century evince a taste and imagination of this church, that the father Allegranza singularly remarkable at ibat epoch. I pretended to recognise in the great sarregretted that, according to some anti-cophagus of white marble placed under quarians, the present gates are not those the present pulpit, the tomb of Stilicon which Saint Ambrose shut against Theo. and his wife Serena. On a pilaster is an dosius, after the massacre of Thessalo- | antique portrait of Saint Ambrose, which, nica, : when liberty had ned to religion according to the inscription, a barbarous for refuge; when the remonstrances and Latin quatrain, was taken from life; the acts of its ministers, men elected by the marble of ihe countenance is black, the people, were the only resource, the only bead attire and the garment of a lighter opposition against absolute power and the shade. Saint Ambrose, being born in violence of the emperors. With ibese tra-Gaul, must have been white, and it is ditions before us, it is easy to conceive why difficult to image to one's self the bees dethe republican conspirator of Milan. por- positing their honey in the mouth of this trayed by Machiavel, at the moment of species of blackamoor. delivering his country from the tyrant Ga- The celebrated gold Paliotto of the Jeas, in company with his accomplices in- altar, give by the archbishop Angilberto voked Saint Ambrose, after baving heard Pusterla, a wonderful production of a mass and contemplated his statue.3 Lombard artist of ihe tenth century, the
In this church there is an immense old goldsmith Volvino, is deemed worthy to pulpit of marble, opposite to the modern be compared to the finest ivory diplychs one; it is pretty much like the gallery which the sacred museums boast. used by the Romans, in which the orators Beyond the choir two large slabs of bad room to walk about. It struck me, wbile marble, covered with inscriptions, while contemplating it, that in form point out the burial place of the emperor as well as independence, the Christian Lewis II., a conqueror and lawgiver, pulpit bad replaced the suggestum of who died in 875, and that of tbe illusearlier days. These old pulpits are in trious archbishop of Milan, Anspert, bis much better taste than the kind of deal contemporary, the founder of Saint Ambox suspended in our churches, above brose, à charitable, active, and enlighwhich rises a man who twists and agi- tered pontill, full of courage and indetates himself and seems ill at ease in so pendence narrow a space. Were not one habituated to this manner of preaching, il
Effector voli, propositique tenar, would appear a very singular exhibition.
Io the nave of Saint Ambrose is placed as his epitaph says, 4 and who seems to · For instance, the beagtiful restoration of the It is said that tbese gales are only of the ninth Louvre bș My. Percier and Fontaine, of ibe palace century. of Fontainebleau by lleurtaud, and even the works 3 See the address of Giovanni Andreo to the statue of the Palais-Royal M. Fontaine could easily bare of Salat Ambrose, book vii. of the History of Fiesurpa-sed the indifferent arcbltecture of these buildings, but he bas made the neñ constructions 4 The verses preceding this give a good sketch of correspond witb the old.
the character of anspert :