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success. The Gospel, now almost moulin

Frederick Barbarossa, through the media- , times confounded with other artists on tion of the victorious Venetians.

the same name; he died in 1529. Thu Saint Mark presents a collection of re ascent to its summit is by path, a real lics of the greatest antiquity, the various foot-path of brick, smooth and without mementos of conquest and revolutions. steps. The sea, Venice rising from iu dit Before the entrance of the church, on the bosom, the resplendent verdure of the sun right, near the Piazzetta, are two pillars fields on terra firma, the hoary lops of covered with Coptic and hieroglyphic the Frioul Alps, the crowd of islets grace is characters, said to have originally be- fully grouped around this imposing city, longed to the temple of Saint Saba, at present a point of view which may almosi Saint Jean d'Acre. According to anti

be called a prodigy. quaries, the porphyry group, at the The Loggietta, at the foot of Saint angle near the door of the Ducal palace, Mark's sleeple, is of rich and elegant de represents Harmodius and Aristogiton, architecture, by Sansovino ; the fou ki the furious assassins of Hipparchus, the bronze stalues of Pallas, Apollo, Mery Athenian lyrant. The four famous horses cury, and Peace, by the same artist, are we of Corinth, or of the Carrousel, have beld in estimation, as are also the orname resumed their former position on the ments by Titian Minio, bis clever pupil : tribune, over the principal door. Never and those of Geronimo Lombardo o was a trophy of victory more modestly Ferrara, one of the first sculptors of the placed, or worse, for they are scarcely sixteenth century. The marble basso perceptible. Won at Constantinople, relievos are exquisite, especially the Fol brought back from Paris, these Greek or of Hella from the ram of Phryxus, am Roman steeds are associated with the Tethys aiding Leander. In the interio two grandest instances of taken towns is a Nostra Signora, another beautifu that bistory record.

work of Sansovino. The lion of Saint Mark is replaced on My eagerness to examine Saint Mark bis column, but mutilated. He ought Gospel, which was not in the library, a never to have left it;

though insiguificant 1 had been informed, induced me wat as a work of art, at Venice it was a public solicit admission to the treasury,--a1 and national emblem of its ancient power. intrigue stimulated by the curiosity of Petsie It is venerable on the piazza of Saint traveller and amateur for wbich I bavi Mark, but on the esplanade of the lova no blush, and which was crowned with lides it was only a superfluous mark of the bravery of our warriors, less noble dered to dust, is enclosed in a framethan all those taltered flags laken on the the damp has so far destroyed it, tha battlefield and suspended in the pave of only a few straggling letters can be will 2,4 the church. It was, moreover, a singu- difficulty perceived. The ecclesiastic larly ill-judged and odious act of a rising who showed it to me pretended, how republic to humiliate, and spoil of the ever, in opposition to Montfaucon, thi vestiges of their past glory, such old it was on parchment and not papyrus, republics as Venice and Genoa. The though which is correct cannot be easil Sacro Catino, and the Lion of Saint decided now. This manuscript is i Mark, were there patriotic monuments Lalin, and was laken by the Venetians ** worthy of respect ; elsewhere they sunk Olina in 1420. Notwithstanding all the harde into mere shop or cabinet curiosities, the miracles attending its transfer to Venia "darin prey of ruthless conquest.

it is impossible to regard il as authenti tetin The Campanile of Saint Mark is a bold since, as before observed, the apostle structure, and one of the solidest and wrote only in Hebrew aud Greek, 3 Th most elevated in Italy or even Europe ; part of the treasure deposited in Sair it was begun in the ienth century, bui Mark's (the other part, consisting of vase not finished lill the sixteenth. The chief and paleras of hard Oriental stone" V!! builder was the illustrious maestro Buono, mounted in gold and silver, is at th## a great Venetian architect, who is some Mint ) may be reckoned, I believe, ona, ce

" Cicognara regards these borses as a Roman was analysed at Paris, and ascertained to be par work of Nero's lime; ibe Cav. Musloxidi pretends copper, Instead of Corinthiap brass as generall that they are Greek from the Island of Cbios, and stated, and as it was natural to suppose. that they were carried to Constantinople la tbe ? See book xix. eh. vlt. anib century by order of Theodosius. The metal See book 11. ch. ale


of the most extensive reliquaries in the It is impossible, however, not to perYezida kind of glass-covered charnel-ceive that a singular exaggeration prevails kare, seen by the giare of candles and in all the narratives concerning the tyLorches: there are exhibited some of the ranny of the old Venetian government. bo numerous pieces of the true cross, For instance, we are told by a recent with the nail

, sponge, and reed used in traveller that the reservoir of fresh water bar Sour's passion; the knife he used for the use of the city was placed within at the last supper, with some Hebrew the limits of the ducal palace, and the characters on the handle so nearly effaced nobles had thereby obtained the means of that Walauon could not decipher them; making their rebel subjects perish with Sonne earth from the foot of the cross

thirst. It is a fact that there are two fine in recated with the divine blood; the bronze cisterns, of the sixteenth century, kuwatus of Saint John Baptist; num

in the centre of the palace court; but terles relics of Saint Mark; a superb There are others in the various squares of silver cross, presented by the empress the city, and every house has one to Irele

, wife of Alexis Comnenes, to the itself. The accusations against the Vebusch of Constantinople; and especially nelian government, which was admired by tv3 admirable chandeliers, chers-d'ou- Commines, were redoubled towards the For the Byzantian goldsmiths, which close of its existence, at an epoch when, a 2 soald ample repay a visit to the probably, they were least merited. It sury. All these spoils proceed from was long the fashion to extol its consti

etking of Constantinople; that vast lution, the wisdom of its laws, and the pose of the wrecks of antiquity, of incorruptibility of its justice, which was was bones and modern jewels-a bar even frequently invoked by foreigners, Barues conquest, as it even lore from the

as it has since been to write on the conle the objects of their faith and ve- stitution, finances, and commerce of


Notwithstanding the heavy forbidding CHAPTER IV.

appearance of the Ducal palace, it has

some elegant details, and in some parts al plaq. - Government of Venice. - Calen

is remarkable in an artistic point of view. serios sutes and capitals.-Allegorical palnt- The capitals of the Tuscan columns in a. - Buse of Europa, by Paolo Veronese.Prená. Tilan's st. Christopber.- Ceiling by

the front, ornamented with foliage, de ferroele.-Council of Ten.-Lion's mouth.

figures, and symbols, original masterse isquisitors.--Grand cogncil.-Portralis of pieces, of a taste at once bold and pure, -Tiulorello's Glory of Paradise.

and so interesting for the history of art.

are chiedy by Calendario, the Michael De Ducal palace, by its architecture Angelo of the middle ages, cqually 2. cum gloomy aspect, gives no bad eminent as a sculptor and architect, repression of the ancient government whose foundations of the Ducal palace on of bene: it is as the Capitol of aristo- the unstable soil of Venice are still a trafic power; its origin even is surrounded miracle for solidity. The Loggietta is ito Lerrors; the doge who begun it,

one of the most frequently mentioned Varios Faliero, lost his head, and the works of Alessandro Viltoria ; the prinarebiler Filippo Calendario was hung as

cipal door, called della Carta, and its Sospirator. The names, 100, of some

statues, arc excellent works of Maestro part of it, are in unison with the impres- Bartolommeo; there are eight beautiful Has to produces : the Giants' Stairs, a Grecian stalues on the clock front; the Hapert structure, witnessed the coro

Adam and Eve, on the inner front, are of the doges, and the Bridge of esteemed; the small front to the left or Sighs 133 the shape of a large sarcopha- the Giants Stairs, by Guglielmo Bergatas suspended over the sea.

A palace, masco, is of superior architecture; the Fion, and a tribunal, one might say,

NepPite word centralisation were not ry- tune on the Giants Stairs, are by Sana Selmas applied under such circum- sovino, but of his latter years; and the 323095, that the ducal palace had fur- Golden Staircase, magnificently embelested the first and most ierrible example. lished by Sansovino, is ornamented with

stuccos by Villoria. See tte Italian Miscellanies.

The by-gone glory and splendour or

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still of importance as regards the arts. 1 rence strikes by the beauty and ceThe school of Trevisa forms a brilliant lestial expression of the saint's head, the 1 branch of the Venetian.

Qesh of St. Jeroine, the foreshortening! The Duomo, although modernised, is of St. Sebastian, and the excellent arstill of an imposing appearance. Three rangement of the whole. The Nativity chapels are by the Lombardi, father and presents the most happy contrast : the son, able Venetian sculptors and archi- Infant Jesus who is looking with an air tects of the fifteenth century; their sim- so loving and so happy al bis mother, replicity and purity render more conspi- presented in a chaste and noble altitude; cuous the false taste of the works of ihe a shepherdess full of grace and simplilast century. The contrast is still further city offering to Christ iwo doves, and the shown by ibe beautiful tomb of Zanelli, almost speaking figore with the eboo bishop of Trevisa, by the Lombardi : the beard and hair, ihe porirait of Aloisa eagle with extended wings, surrounded Rovero, who ordered ihe picture. The by a wreath of Lowers, greatly excited the Mysteries of the Rosary, a small picture admiration of Canova. The tomb of in six divisions, is exquisite and elegant, Pope Alexander VIII. (Ottoboni), who and may be considered a sort of miniawas a canon of the cathedral, by the lure display of the author's peculiar Trevisan Comioo, is horribly heavy. qualities. St. John the Baptist, by Vic

The Virgin on a throne, ornamented coria, expresses penitence : the efect is with beautiful crimson curlains, holding still increased by the statue being from ihe infant Jesus, and beside her st. the quarries of Istria, better adapted by Sebastian and St. Roch, is by Geronimo its dark grey colour for a subject of this Vecchio, of Trevisa, painted in 1487; it kind than ihe most brilliant marble. has all the languishing colouring and The Cross carried by the angels, by dignified grace of that painter. The Arnalteo, a good painter of the Venetian Assumption by Penacchi, an artist of school, with the figures of St. James Trevisa of the sixteenth century, noto major, St. Diego, St. Anthony the abbot, withstanding the stifiness of the drape- and St. Bernardin, is a noble, graceful, ries, produces a pleasing impression : a and animated composition : the landgroup of angels carrying up the Virgin scape is a view of Molla, a town of the is perfectly Mantegnesque. A long Pro Trevisan, where the artist resided : the cession by Dominici, another painter of colouring has not the ordinary vivacity Trevisa of the same century, who died of Amalieo, who was upwards of any. young, is extremely curious: all the nine when he executed it. The Holy small figures are natural, true, and full winding Sheet, held by three bishops of life, and exhibit the contemporary followed by priests holding torches, portraits of the authorities of the cily. and shown to the adoration of the faithA whimsical inscription pul al the bottom ful, by Francesco Bassano, is rich, broad, brings to our recollection the peculiar and true. Pordenone, a powerful artist, estimation made of this picture by Ca- surnamed the Michael Angelo of the ve nova, the rival of Phidias. The vault netian school, bas painted two superb of Saint Liberal, where his tomb stands, frescos; the Epiphany, which, not withis an ancient, bold, and solid construc- standing some exaggeration, is bold and tion. The St. Justine, transparent, and majestic; there is a foolish vain inscripwell preserved, by Bissolo, a good Vene- tion indicating that it was ordered by the lian artist of the sixteenth century but canon Brocardo Maichiostro, whom we little known, has a sort of liveliness about shall hereafter have occasion to mention. it, notwithstanding the sword that pierces The Eternal Father surrounded by a the bosom of the chaste martyr:tbe canon multitude of little angels entwined and on his kniees praying with such an earnest descending to the earth, a fresco in pious air, is said to be the portrait of the the cupola, is wonderfully lively and person who ordered the picture. airy

A Virgin silting with ihe infant Jesus But the finest of the pictures of the on one knee, supposed to be by Sanso- Duomo is the Annunciation by Titian vino, is of the finest times of sculpture. when young, admirably expressive, true,

The able Trevisan painter, Paris Bor- and natural, both in the perspective and done, has decorated the Duomo with drapery; the ouly fault is, bis having inthree masterpieces. The grand St. Lau- troduced the canon Malchiostro, who,

because be ordered it, had the whimsical | but was found from the registers of the pretension to figure in it.

convent to be by a monk, Fra Marco PenThe church of Saint Nicholas, the finest sabene, a Venetian, the great artist of the in Trevisa, dales from the year 1300, and cloister, who must have been one of bas the Gothic grandeur of the mona- Giovanni Bellini's best pupils, though steries of Saint Dominick. The architect spoken of by none, notwithstanding bis belonged to the middle ages, but of pretty interesting naine of Fra Penhis name we are ignorant, as we are of sabene. many obers, builders of vast basilics, The hall of the chapter, painted in and immense monuments of that period, 1352 by Thomas of Modena, represents a characterised by the strength and dura- gallery of celebrated Dominicans, each bility of its works. These singular and bending over his little desk, reading or religious artists were more anxious about meditating, some wearing spectacles ; their salvation than their fame. Thus in igures with little of the ideal, and totally architecture, the middle ages truly ap- destitute of variety, but natural and true. pear, as some one bas observed, lo be the The church of Saint Theonist, now apepoch of great men now unknown. Saint pertaining to a girls' school, presents on Nicholas owes its foundation to the zeal the arched roof, a Paradise, in which and bounty of Pope Benedict XI., who the soul of the saint enters triumphantly, was born in the Trevisan and belonged a fresco by the Venetian Fossati and the the convent.

figures by Guarana; it is remarkable for As at the Duomo, an altar by the the ornaments and perspective; an AsLombardi, notwithstanding its exiguity, sumption by Spineda, a noble and able sbews strikingly the false taste of the artist of Trevisa, the imitator and almost last century, exbibited in an enormous the rival of Palma, for drawing and altar by the celebrated P. Pozzi. The delicacy of colouring; and a. Magdalen tomb of Count Agostino d'Onigo of Tre

at the foot of the cross, with the Virgin visa, a senator of Rome (which does not and St. John, a work after the manner mean that he was a Roman senator), is of Tilian, by Jacopo Bassano, who afteraber excellent work of the Lombardi. wards adopted a style of his own and was

The Apparition of Christ, by Giovanni also chief of a school. Bellini, shows by its morbidezza that

The church of the Scalzi (or barethe old master had the good sense lo

fooled Carmelites), by its form and exauproach the manner of his two great treme cleanliness, invites the soul to pels, Giorgione and Titian.

In the devotion. Notwithstanding it has underlewer part of the picture are the contem- gone a fatal restoration, we recognise the porary portraits of the bishop, lhe podestà, original touch of Paris Bordone in the and lite prior of the convent, all members Virgin with the Infant Jesus, St.

John of the pious Monigo foundation, that the Baptist, and St. Jerome; the latter. charitably belped poor females, several half-naked' and covered only with the of whom bure among the portraits and cardinal's purple, is presenting his hat are full of life. The si. Christopher to the Infant Jesus, who takes it as a carrying ide Infant Jesus on his shoulder plaything. is of the colossal size of thirty-four feet,

The church of Saint Augustine, of an independently of his legs which are in elliptic shape and good architecture, has the water; it dates from the year 1410,

a Virgin, St. Joseph, and a saint, which sa most able fresco by Antonio, of Tre- brings to our mind the lively manner of visa, and interesting as regards art. The Andrea Schiavone. Virgin on a throne with St. Thomas Saint Leonard contains the Glory of & Aquin, St. Jerome, St. Liberal, St. the saint, a fresco of fine colouring by Doninick, St. Nicholas the bishop, Giambattista Canaletto, and an old Virgin Benedict XI., and on the steps of the With the Eternal Faiher, St. Barthothrone a litlle' angel playing on the lyre, lomew, and St. Prosdocimus, perhaps by is an immense, elegant, and majestic Jacopo Bellini, the worlhy father of composition, and was for a length of time Giovanni and Gentile; lhe retouching has supposed to be by Sebastiano del Piombo, injured the Virgin, but as regards the

The arebilects of the cburebes Saint Anastasia destroyed, Saint John and Paul of Venice, are not of Verona, Saint Augustine of Padua, recently

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Eternal Father, the saints, and chiefly , and with the other holds the corner of the little angels, it is a fine, noble, and the crimson cloth, placed under the body graceful work. Another retouching has of Christ. In spite of the injury of time, destroyed the figure of St. Sebastian, the retouchings, and the bad light it is witb Si. John the Baptist and St. Erasmus, placed in, it will ever be admired for by Giovanni Bellini; but the St. Erasmus boldness of foreshortening. the play of remains untouched, and has preserv- the light, and the terror blended with ed all the charming characteristics of the compassion that it inspires. artist.

One of the rooms of the Mont-de-Piété The front of the church of Saint Gio- displays a Miracle of the loaves and vanni del Tempio, or Saint Gaetan, is fishes, a small, curious, and unpoliced worthy, from its purity and chasteness, fresco full of life, with a charming landof its dale, 1508, which is inscribed on it, scape; this fresco, although much daand it shows the style of the Lombardi; maged, obtained the suffrages of two but with the exception of a small gallery good judges, S. Missirini, and Count with a cupola, the interior, horribly Cambray Digny, a Tuscan architect, orimodervised, is not at all in conformily ginally from Picardy ; they were both of with such an exterior.

them at Trevisa in 1831, and may be The steeple of Saint Martin indicates said to have in some manner found it out. that the building is of a very ancient date. An old clerk told these gentlemen that An Assumption by Spineda is much tradition attributed it to Ludovico Fiu. esteemed ; likewise St. Martin giving micelli, a native of Trevisa, who too early alms, and a Trinity by Orioli, a prolific abandoned the study of painting for that painter and poet of the seventeenth cen- of architecture and fortification, but S. tury, born at Trevisa, to which he con- Missirini has no hesitation in believing it fined bis natural but almost uncultivated to be worthy of the able Venetian master talents.

Bonifacio. In the same room are also At Saint Andrew, the Virgin, St. the rich Epulon and Moses striking the John, Chrysostome, St. Lucy and below rock, presenting two_animated landa lillle angel playing on the harp, in spite scapes, by Ludovico Pozzo, a Flemish of its dilapidated state, exhibits the sim- artist, long resident at Trevisa, and rather plicity and taste of Gentile Bellini.

posterior to Fiumicelli. The most ancient church of Trevisa is Such was the secundity of art in l'aly that of San Giovanni del Battesimo, in the sixteenth century that it is to be which possesses a Baptism of Christ, by round even in an establishment to aid the Spineda, and a si. Apollonius, by indigent, where it shines amid the pledged Francesco Bassano.

garments of the poor, making a MontThe small church of Saint Gregory has de-Piété almost a museum. the picture of the Saint babiled in his pontifical robes, one of the masterpieces

CHAPTER XXXIV. of the younger Palma.

Library.—Theatre. -Pola palace - Incient Doftai CHAPTER XXXIII.

palace.--Hospital. - Bridge. Mont-de-Piété. - The Dead Christ, by Giorgione. The chapler library was founded hy a

liberal and noble Trevisan, Count Arzani The Mont-de-Piété (where money is lent Rambaldo Avogaro, a celebrated antiby the State on pledges) of Trevisa has quary, the friend of Muratori, a canon still ils celebrated Dead Christ, by Gior-zealous for the literature and history of gione, painted for this establishment, a his country. He resuscitated ibe old most magnificent proof of its antiquity academy of ihe Solleciti, which for a and richness. Christ is supported in a length of time had ceased to deserve its silting posture by angels on the long mar- name. The correspondence of Avogaro ble stone of the sepulchre. The paleness with the learned of different countries is and sunken appearance of the dead body preserved in this library, and forms is wonderfully contrasted with the fresh- no less than 26 folio volumes. ness, strength, and agility of the angel, The Onigo theatre, a good substantial who has started to the opening of the building of stone both inside and out, lomb to which he clings with one hand, harmonious in its construction, was ar

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