it from the serpent, and placed it in a shrine on the spot where he stood. In the second century A.D., the hero-prince Yamato-dake obtained permission from his father the Mikado to use it against the eastern savages, and, returning in triumph, deposited it in the shrine of Atsuta, where it has ever since attracted the reverence of pilgrims.

One incident which occurred at Miya is too characteristic to be omitted. As we were resting in our yadoya after supper, a boy appeared with fans for sale. They were very pretty, and I bought a few, notably one with a brilliant scarlet design. After carrying this with me for a few days, I was unexpectedly and curiously led to abandon its use; for in whatever chaya or yadoya I brought it out of my pocket, I was sure to be assailed with such questions as, 'Was she a very pretty girl?' 'Were you not very sorry to leave her behind you?' 'Do you think the Japanese ladies as pretty as those of your own country?' etc. The fan, it seemed, was of the kind specially made to be presented to one's lady-love!

The town of Kuwana, celebrated for a peculiar kind of earthenware called banko, extremely thin and fragile and very much valued, lies at the mouth of the Kiso-gawa, seventeen miles S.W. of Nagoya. The Tokaido route thence to Kiyôto we must pass over very hurriedly. The coast-line is followed more

Wooded Heights.

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or less to Shiku (seven and a half miles beyond Yokkaichi1 and fourteen beyond Kuwana), whence the mountains are gradually approached. Beyond the castle town of Kameyama, the lower spurs begin to encircle the road, and, when Seki is passed and Saka-no-shita reached, the traveller is in a

region of picturesque wooded heights. Just above the last-mentioned town is the romantic winding pass of Sudzuka, which being overcome, gentle undulations lead to Tsuchiyama and Minakuchi.

1 Steamers of the Mitsu Bishi Company sail regularly between Yokkachi and Yokohama.

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Then follow in succession, a plain with a very sandy soil and bordered by mountains revealing many bare patches of sand and rock, a fertile region with tea plantations, glimpses of the southern stretches of lake Biwa and high hills beyond, the handsome bridge spanning the Uji-kawa at its effluence from the lake, the long town of Ôtsu on the southern shore of the lake, which stretches beyond headlands towards the distant mist-capped mountains, a sudden turn to the left through a defile along a road of excellent quality, a sight of a pagoda beyond the vista of the road, a plain with numerous buildings opening out, houses on both sides; and the traveller finds that he has reached Kiyôto.

Three Classic Cities.

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CHAPTER XIII.

THREE CLASSIC CITIES.

Kiyôto:-The most Fascinating City in Japan-Its Situation and General Appearance-Striking Lights and Shades-Strangely Contradictory Traits of Character-Tasteful Houses and Costumes-Imperial Palace-Marvels of Art-Garden-Ancient Trees-Translation of an old Poem-Many Beautiful and Historical Resorts-Temples of Nishi Honguwanji—Spacious Hall-Exquisite Carving-A Service-Resemblance to Romanism-A Sermon-Abbot's Palace-Old Pavilion and GardenMonastery of Chion-in-A Peaceful Retreat-Musical PassageImmense Bell-Singing and Dancing Girls-The City as seen by Moonlight from Maruyama-'Unless you want me to become a Buddhist, let us away from this '-Educational InstitutionsIndustries. Ôsaka:-Founded by Jimmu Tennô-Of old the Capital - Imperial Self-Sacrifice-Castle-Immense StonesImperial Mint - Commerce Wealth. Nara: A Lovelorn Maiden - Deer Park - Daibutsu-Ancient Pine-Dolls-The Capital in the Eighth Century A. D.-Spirit of Old Japan— Poem-Buddhist Prayer Meeting-Garrulous Nesans-Peaceful Evening-Love Song. Hiyei-zan.

KIYOTO is undoubtedly the most fascinating of all the cities of Japan. The fact that for twelve centuries it was the hallowed seat of the Emperors, adored as the Sons of Heaven, would alone surround it with no dim halo, even did it not present such exceptional charms of nature and of art.

With an air of elegant repose, it les amid its environment of hills. Its main length is from north to south, thus corresponding with the valley, hemmed in on all sides except the south, in which it is situated. On the east its houses run up the glades and partly ascend the slopes of the wooded range of which the rounded Maru-yama is a prominent feature. It is from among the groves of these hills that the pagodas and roofs of some of the most celebrated temples in the empire picturesquely issue, -Kiyômidzu, Nishi Ótani, San-jiu-san-gen-dô, Gion, Chion-in, Kurodani, and others. Broad stately avenues lead to several of them, notably Chion-in, on which alone a volume might be written. The appearance of the wooded spurs between and on which these sacred buildings lie, is picturesque in the extreme, the foliage for the most part dense and sombre, but exquisitely varied at points by the brilliant scarlet blossoms of the lagerstramia Indica or other flowering trees in the gardens connected with the sacred enclosures. The Japanese sometimes speak of the lagerstramia Indica as the laughing tree, and verily it seems to laugh like a gleesome maiden among these sedate old groves. From Kiyômidzů a beautiful panoramic view of the city is obtained, in which its general form can be aken in at a glance. It is observed that the western and northern sides are separated from the mountains