The most complete remaining part of the building is the chapter-house, entering from the north side of the choir. It is called the "Prentice Aisle," and it has a tradition similar to that told of the well-known pillar in Roslin. The chapter-house is octagonal in form: "In the centre a beauti forth, tree-like, as it approaches the roof, its branches to the different angles, each with its peculiar incrustation of rich decorations and its grotesque corbel!" Upon the pillar is the In 1568 the Privy Council, under Regent Murray, at a moment of exigence when the troops were ill paid, resorted to the notable expedient of robbing this Cathedral and that of Aberdeen of their leaden roofs, "appointing the lead to be taken from the Cathedral churches in Elgyne and Aberdeen, sauld and disponit upon, for the_sus-ful flowered and clustered pillar sends tenation of the men of weir." It is said, however, that the ship containing the sacrilegious cargo was lost on its voyage to Holland. Again, in 1640, a band of local barons and clergy destroyed the paintings and the rood-stone or desk to which the Scriptures screen, the last remaining traces of the Cathedral's ancient internal decorations. To crown all, the great central tower and spire, which, after its fall in 1506, had been rebuilt to the height of 198 feet, fell a second time, on Easter Day, 1711; and down to a late date the ruins were made a quarry by the inhabitants, out of which to build houses and dykes; so much so, that almost all between the front towers and east wall of the transepts, and many other parts beyond, have entirely disappeared. It is said that the first person who took any notice of the Cathedral was the late Joseph King, of Newmill, provost of Elgin from 1806 to 1809, who caused it to be enclosed with a stone wall. The late Mr. Isaac Forsyth also got repeated grants from the Exchequer for repairs to the venerable building. At last the Crown claimed it in 1820, and has since kept it in order; and the precincts, with the churchyard around, are well en were chained in old times; and the capital is decorated with the armorial bearings of the Stewarts (by a bishop of which name the chapter-house is said to have been built) and those of Scotland, together with carvings of the Passion of our Lord, etc. Seven of the sides are lighted by windows; the eighth contains the door opening from the cloister alongside of the choir. Some interesting old monuments are here; also fragments of carved stones, upon one of which, resting upon the moon, is a witch astride a broom! Between the chapter-house and the north cloister are the remains of the vestry and the small sacristy, containing a lavatory, the rim of which is beautifully carved into leaves. It formed the cradle (and no mean one either) of the baby of a poor demented mother, Marjory Gilzean, who took up her home in the ruins, and whose child became the brave General Anderson, the founder of the noble institution in the city that bears his name. Passing from this to The building, which is generally in the choir we enter the chancel, with its the Early English style, was originally splendid double row of lancet windows, 289 feet long; the nave and cloister, under which stood the high altar and 87 feet broad; and the choir and the tomb of the founder. Adjoining cloister, 79 feet. The principal door is St. Mary's Aisle, the burial-place of is on the west, between two massive the ducal family of Gordon, where, in towers 84 feet high. The arch of this 1836, George, the fifth and last duke, grand entrance presents some beautiful was interred, as was also his duchess and delicately chiselled ornaments, in Elizabeth Brodie in 1864. There are a much earlier style of architecture several tombs here: the centre one on than that of the recorded date of the the east with recumbent figure is that foundation-a style also to be found in of the first Marquis of Huntly, who deother parts of the building, and some-feated the Earl of Crawford at Brechin. times overtopping, as in the south It bears date 1470. transept, later work. closed. In a recess opposite are the tomb 66 and effigy of Bishop Winchester (1437- | the priory was reformed and made a 58), and upon the arch above it angels cell of Dunfermline. "The archiare represented, in red outline, with tecture is chiefly Early Pointed, retainmuch of the grace and style of the ing, as usual, the circular arch in its early Italian masters. In the south doorways. The nave is gone, all but transept are two other recessed tombs a fragment of wall; the choir, of three with effigies; also several interesting bays, without aisles, is fifty-six feet long. fragments of statues, one of which, The chapter-house, about thirty feet with crozier in hand, is said to repre- square, shows remarkably delicate sent Bishop Innes (1407-14), the found-mouldings, and its roof, like that of er of the (now lost) great middle Elgin, is supported by a single central tower. A broken stone coffin is shown pier. The north transept is a fine as that in which the body of King composition, and had a large round Duncan was first buried, after his mur- window in the gable. The old groined der by Macbeth, near Duffus. The roof is still standing on the aisles of sculptured stone in a line with the the transept, and also on a small north wall of the nave, embellished chapel at the north of the choir. On with a cross, a hunting scene, and the north wall of the choir is a credence curious symbols, was found while level- table, on which two angels are repreling the High Street of Elgin in 1823. sented as supporting a casket, and with It is figured on plate 16, vol. i., of the their other hands squeezing a bunch of Sculptured Stones of Scotland." There grapes. A flight of steps leads from are other fragments of statues and re- the church up to the dormitory, upon cumbent figures in the north transept. which a substantial roof has been set. Of the great central tower which rose The kitchen, which is arched, is underbetween the transepts only the bases neath, and the latter has been fitted of the four supporting pillars remain. up as a church, the old pulpit of Elgin The surrounding graveyard contains Cathedral being placed in it. In 1783, many interesting monuments. Dr. James Hay, minister of Elgin, bequeathed to the minister and KirkSession of Elgin £100 "for a preacher in Pluscarden." The interest of this mortification was annually paid to a missionary in connection with the Church of Scotland up to 1843; but the then incumbent went out at the Disruption, and no successor has been appointed. The congregation now worshipping in the abbey belongs to the Free Church, but their minister does not enjoy the endowment, which is accumulating in the hands of the Kirk-session of Elgin. These ruins impress you with a sense of desolation. Very different is the effect of those of the ivy festooned Priory of Pluscarden, on the other side of Elgin, about six miles to the southwest. "Protected from the chilling blasts of the Northern Ocean by a long and high ridge of hills, now thickly planted with fir, the Abbey stands at the narrowest point of a valley which expands towards the east and west in a long vista of luxurious fertility. The very perfect remains have been well cared for, and, surrounded as they are by a high wall, enclosing about ten acres, approached by a nicely shaven lawn, neat garden and well pruned trees, convey a vivid impression of medieval civilisation and monastic repose. The church itself was cruciform, with a square central tower." The priory was founded by Alexander II. in 1230, and dedicated to St. Andrew. The monks were Cistercians of the rule of St. Benedict. They were at first independent, but having become rich they became vicious, and Leaving Elgin, the Morayshire Railway goes on northwards to Lossiemouth. 39. Lossiemouth. 5 miles from Elgin. are carved on the south wall of this tower. The other three corners of the quadrangle had also small turrets. In the south side of the area was a spacious tennis court, and parallel to it inside a chapel. On the north side were bedrooms and cellars, and on the east stables. Around the court and precincts were gardens well supplied with fruit trees. In 1590 the castle and lands were formed into a lordship, and given to Sir Alexander Lindsay with the title of Lord Spynie. He died from the effect of eleven wounds received in a street brawl in Edinburgh. The third Lord of Spynie died in 1670 without issue, and the lands reverted to the Crown. They were afterwards granted to Douglas of Spynie and subsequently passed through several hands until they reached those of the Earl of Fife, the present possessor. In Smiles's "Life of Edward, the Scottish Naturalist," we have the following reference to the Loch of Spynie : on a loch of the same name, a considerable portion of which has been drained. St. John says of it, Feb. 15, 1847: "Rode to Gordonstoun and shot ducks with Sir Alex. Gordon Cumming, at the Loch of Spynie, which I consider to be about the best loch in the north for wild-fowl shooting." And he adds in another place: "Among the loose stones of the old castle of Spynie, which overlooks it, and where formerly proud ecclesiastics trod, the badger has now taken up his solitary dwelling.' The first erection at Spynie is generally supposed to have taken place soon after the death of Bishop Brecius in 1222, but it must have been a place of some importance before that, as it was made the head-quarters of the see by a papal bull in 1203, in which year also Bishop Richard died and was buried at the Bishop's Palace of Spynie. The building formed a square of nearly forty yards, a high wall surrounded the whole, and a noble gateway formed the entrance to the east. Over the gateway are carved the arms of Bishop John Innes, in whose time (about 1406) it was most probably built. The square tower to the northwest, now forming the principal part of the ruins, was built by Bishop David Stewart between 1461 and 1475. Hence it bears the name of "Davie's Tower." This bishop having a feud with the Earl of Huntly, laid him under ecclesiastical censure, which so provoked the Gordons that they threatened to pull It measured about one the prelate from his pigeon holes, hundred yards in length, being thirty meaning the small rooms of the old in breadth. The most abundant shell building. The bishop is said to have found was the periwinkle, or the edible replied that he would soon build a 'buckie.' Next in order was the house out of which the Earl and all his oyster. The Bay of Spynie was then a clan should not be able to pull him. productive dredging ground. On the So he built him this tower, sixty feet extensive flat around it, wherever a long, thirty-six feet wide, and about canal or ditch is dug up, the shells of sixty feet high. The walls are nine oysters are yet to be met with, seemfeet thick, and the windows are of ingly on the spot where they lived. ample size. Below were vaulted rooms. Yet the oyster, as well as the primitive Above them four spacious state-apart-people who fared on it, have long since ments and bed-rooms, with vaulted passed away. closets. The roof was also vaulted, "The third shell in order in this with cap-house and surrounding battle- bank of shells is the mussel, and then ments. A winding stair led to the top. the cockle, all edible. There is eviThe arms of Bishop David and Andrew dence enough in these mussels, says Dr. Stewart, and those of Patrick Hepburn, Gordon, to show that they have been The Rev. Dr. Gordon of Birnie, near Elgin, found a kitchen-midden, or refuse-heap of shells, on the old margin of the Loch of Spynie, formerly an arm of the sea. The mound is situated in a small wood on the farm of Brigzes. It had been much diminished by its contents having been carted off from the centre of the heap, as manure or topdressing for the adjoining fields. The mound must have been of considerable extent. the work of man, not the effect of any the water out when the tide is low and tidal current or any other natural cause. keeping it back when it is high. On The shell-fish which the remains repre- the east side Captain Dunbar Brander sent are, with scarcely an exception, has retained a piece of water for duckedible, and continue to be eaten to this shooting and boating. Artists and day. In all deposits by the sea there sportsmen regret the drainage, but is abundance of species that have ever much valuable land has been reclaimed; been rejected as food. The shells are and if the adage is true that whoever full-grown or adult shells. In collec- adds a grain of corn to the produce of tions made by the sea, the young the country is a benefactor, these proanimals are abundant, and often pre-prietors who drained the Loch of dominate. Now no movement of Spynie must be entitled to praise. wind and water could have thus selected the edible and adult, and left behind the noxious and the young. They must have been gathered by man, and for the purpose of supplying his wants. Many other arguments have been brought forward to prove this, so that no doubt is now entertained of the matter. One strong proof is that the oysters and periwinkles are never found living and mingled together in the same part of the sea. The former exists between tide-marks. The cockle delights in sand. The mussel must be moored on a rock or hard bottom. In different parts of the masses of shells at Brigzes, there are to be seen many stones that have been subjected to considerable heat. They probably have been used in this state for cooking, as is known to be the case among people of primitive habits to this day.' A large part of what was the old Loch of Spynie has been drained and converted into farm land. For in old times the Loch of Spynie was an arm of the sea, extending from Burghead on the west, to near the present town or village of Lossiemouth on the east; it was fished, and small ships ascended to near the palace. It is said that not very long ago a German vessel arrived in the Firth, chartered to the port of Spynie, so that it must be still on some old maps. Previous to 1829, attempts had been made for its drainage with more or less success, but in the floods of that year, the Lossie broke into the loch, and undid in a great measure what had been done. In 1861, the proprietors combined, and, at considerable expense, have removed the water from the west side of the railway by a deep canal with a tidal sluice, letting The first cost of the drainage, previous to 1861, was upwards of £12,000. The outlay between 1861 and 1868 was £5750. The canal and sluices cost annually to keep them in working order about £200, exclusive of cost of drains on the individual farms. The amount of land reclaimed has been On Pitgarney Total 148 acres. 137 35 "" 762 Some of the land, owing to low levels, is only fit for pasturage, while, on the other hand, much land which was arable before has been improved by the drainage of the loch. The railway terminates at the coastat the little towns of Lossiemouth on the east and Branderburgh on the west side of the river Lossie. The population of the two conjoined is about 3000. There is a good harbour, formed by the Stotfield and Lossiemouth Harbour Company, a company formed in 1834. The foundation-stone of the new harbour was laid in 1837; it was greatly enlarged in 1860. The harbour now yields a revenue of about £1500 yearly. At various times attempts have been made, profitably, to mine for silver and lead in the fluor-spar rocks of the Coulart hill, and have been abandoned. These attempts have been again resumed, and it is said with some prospect of success. The lead is found in a hard siliceous rock, and was visible on the surface. The various attempts to work it were Lossiemouth is growing fast. It has not much trade, but is popular as a bathing-place, and many new villas have been erected. rather superficial, but now a company | being good for all parties, shareholders, has been formed, and they are going on miners, and harbour. in earnest. About a hundred men are employed; they have sunk a shaft, and have erected or are erecting crushing and washing machinery. They have come on some rich veins, some of the ore as rich as eighty per cent of lead, while it is said that four per cent of lead will pay. In the meantime the shares are at a premium, and it is to be hoped they may continue so, as We have now traversed the whole of the Main Line with its northern bifurcations. We proceed next to examine the District Lines which branch off from it, beginning with the Alford Valley Railway. F |