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CHAPTER III
A gipsy encampment-A puzzling matter-Farming and
farmers, past and present-An ancient market-town-A
picturesque bit of old-world architecture-Gleaners—
Time's changes--A house in two counties-A wayside
inn-The commercial value of the picturesque
PAGE
41
CHAPTER IV
Biggleswade "Instituted" or "intruded"!—A poetical will
-The river Ivel-A day to be remembered -- The art
of seeing-Misquotations-The striving after beauty—
Stories in stone-An ancient muniment chest-An angler's
haunt-The town bridge-The pronunciation of names--
St. Neots
58
CHAPTER V
The charm of small towns-The Ouse-A pleasant land—
Buckden Palace-A joke in stone-The birthplace of
Samuel Pepys-Buried treasure-Huntingdon-An old-
time interior-A famous coaching inn-St. Ives—A
church steeple blown down !—A quaint and ancient bridge
-A riverside ramble-Cowper's country-Two narrow
escapes
CHAPTER VI
Cromwell's birthplace-Records of the past-Early photo-
graphs-A breezy day-Home-brewed ale-Americans on
English scenery-Alconbury Hill-The plains of Cam-
bridgeshire-The silence of Nature-Stilton-A decayed
coaching town-A medieval hostelry-A big sign-board
-Old-world traditions-Miles from anywhere
73
97
Norman Cross-A Norman-French inscription-A re-headed
statue-The friendliness of the road-The art of being
delightful--The turnpike roads in their glory-Bits for
the curious-A story of the stocks-"Wansford in Eng-
land"-Romance and reality-The glamour of art "The
finest street between London and Edinburgh "—Ancient
"Callises "A historic inn-Windows that have tales to
tell
118
CHAPTER VIII
A picturesque ruin-Round about Stamford-Browne's "Callis"
-A chat with an antiquary-A quaint interior—“ Bull-
running "A relic of a destroyed college--An old Car-
melite gateway-A freak of Nature-Where Charles I.
last slept as a free man- -A storied ceiling-A gleaner's
bell--St. Leonard's Priory-Tennyson's county--In time
of vexation-A flood-Hiding-holes-Lost !-Memorials
of the past
CHAPTER IX
A land of dykes-Fenland rivers-Crowland Abbey—A unique
triangular bridge-Antiquaries differ-A mysterious statue
--A medieval rhyme-A wayside inscription — The
scenery of the Fens-Light-hearted travellers-Cowbit-
A desolate spot-An adventure on the road-A Dutch-like
town
139
161
CHAPTER X
Spalding- "Ye Olde White Horse Inne "-An ancient hall
and quaint garden-Epitaph-hunting-A signboard joke
-Across the Fens-A strange world-Storm and sun-
shine-An awkward predicament-Bourn-Birthplace of
Hereward the Wake-A medieval railway station —
Tombstone verses
.' 186
CHAPTER XI
A pleasant road-Memories-Shortening of names-Health-
drinking-A Miller and his mill-A rail-less town-
Changed times and changed ways-An Elizabethan church
clock-A curious coincidence-Old superstitions-Satire
in carving "The Monks of Old "
204
CHAPTER XII
A civil tramp-Country hospitality-Sleaford-A Lincolnshire
saying-A sixteenth-century vicarage-Struck by lightning
"The Queen of Villages "—A sculptured anachronism
-Swineshead-A strange legend-Local proverbs-Chat
with a "commercial "-A mission of destruction-The
curfew-Lost our way-Out of the beaten track—A grot-
esque figure and mysterious legend-Puzzling inscriptions
-The end of a long day
226
CHAPTER XIII
The Fenland capital-Mother and daughter towns-" Boston
stump"-One church built over another-The company
at our inn-A desultory ramble-An ancient prison-The
Pilgrim Fathers-The banks of the Witham-Hussey
Tower-An English Arcadia-Kyme Castle-Benington
-A country of many churches-Wrangle-In search of a
ghost-A remote village-Gargoyles-The grotesque in
art
248
CHAPTER XIV
Wind-blown trees-Marshlands-September weather-Wain-
fleet-An ancient school-The scent of the sea-The
rehabilitation of the old-fashioned ghost -A Lincolnshire
mystery-A vain search-Too much alike-Delightfully
indefinite-Halton Holgate-In quest of a haunted house 268
In a haunted house-A strange story-A ghost described !-
An offer declined-Market-day in a market-town-A pic-
turesque crowd-Tombs of ancient warriors-An old
tradition Popular errors-A chat by the way—The
modern Puritan-A forgotten battle-ground-At the sign
of the "Bull"
288
CHAPTER XVI
Six hilly miles-A vision for a pilgrim-The scenery of the
Wolds-Poets' dreams versus realities-Tennyson's brook
-Somersby-An out of-the-world spot-Tennyson-land
-A historic home-A unique relic of the past-An ancient
moated grange-Traditions
309
CHAPTER XVII
A decayed fane-Birds in church-An old manorial hall—-
Curious creations of the carver's brain-The grotesque in
excelsis-The old formal garden-Sketching from memory
-The beauty of the Wolds-Lovely Lincolnshire !—
Advice heeded!-A great character-A headless horse-
man-Extremes meet-" All's well that ends well"
329
CHAPTER XVIII
A friend in a strange land-Horse sold in a church-A sport
of the past-Racing the moon!-Facts for the curious-
The Champions of England-Scrivelsby Court-Brush
magic-Coronation cups-A unique privilege-A blunder-
ing inscription-A headless body-Nine miles of beauty
-Wragby-At Lincoln-Guides and guide-books-An
awkward predicament
352
CHAPTER XIX
"A precious piece of architecture "Guest at an inn-A
pleasant city-Unexpected kindness-A medieval lavatory
-An honest lawyer !-The cost of obliging a stranger—
Branston-A lost cyclist-In search of a husband!—
Dunston Pillar-An architectural puzzle-A Lincolnshire
spa-Exploring-An ancient chrismatory
372
CHAPTER XX
A long discourse-The origin of a coat-of-arms-An English
serf-A witch-stone-Lincolnshire folk-lore-A collar for
lunatics St. Mary's thistle-A notable robbery-An
architectural gem-Coningsby-Tattershall church and
castle-Lowland and upland—“ Beckingham-behind-the-
Times"-Old Lincolnshire folk
CHAPTER XXI
A cross-country road-A famous hill-Another medieval inn-
"The Drunken Sermon "-Bottesford-Staunton Hall-
Old family deeds-A chained library-Woolsthorpe
manor-house-A great inventor!-Melton Mowbray—
Oakham A quaint old manorial custom-Rockingham
Castle Kirby.
CHAPTER XXII
A well-preserved relic-An old English home-Authorities
differ-Rooms on the top of a Church tower-A medieval-
looking town-A Saxon tower-Bedford-Bunyan's birth-
place-Luton-The end of the journey.
APPENDIX
INDEX
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