By the year 1572, Cockfpur-ftreet filled up the space between thofe houfes and Charing-Crofs. Pall-mall was alfo laid out as a walk, or a place for the exercife of the Mall, a

game long fince difufed. The north fide was alfo planted

with a row of trees. On the other fide was the wall of St. James's park. Charles II. removed it to its prefent place, planted the park, and made all thofe improvements, which we now fee. It was Le Notre, the famous French gardener, the director of tafte under Louis XIV. who ordered the difpofition of the trees. Of late, the French have endeavoured to borrow tafte from us. In the days of Charles, the Haymarket, and Hedge-lane, had names; but they were literally lanes, bounded by hedges; and all beyond, to the north, cast, and weft, was entirely country. In the fine plan of London, published by Faithorn, in 1658, no traces of houfes are to be met with in the former, any more than a fingle one, named the Gaminghoufe, at the end next to Piccadilly. Windmill-ftreet confifted of disjoined houfes; and a windmill, flanding in a field on the weft fide, proves from what its name was derived. All the fpace occupied by the fireets radiating from the Seven Dials, was at that period open ground.'

Lord Clarendon mentions a houfe of this name, in the following words. "Mr. Hyde (fays he, fpeaking of himfelf) going to a house called Piccadilly, which was a fair houfe for entertainment, and gaming, with handfome gravelwalks with fhade, and where were an upper and lower bowling-green, whither very many of the nobility, and gentry of the best quality reforted for exercife and converfation."

At the upper end of the Haymarket, flood Piccadilla hall, where Piccadillas or Turn-overs, were fold, which gave name to that vaft street, called from that circumflance Piccadilly. This ftreet was completed in 1642, as far as the prefent Berkeley ftreet. The first good houfe which was built in it was Burlington-houfe; the noble founder, father to the late earl of Burlington, faid he placed it there" because he was certain no one would build beyond him." Nobody is ignorant of the vall town that, fince that period, has extended itfelf beyond this palace. After this rofe Clarges-house, and two others adjacent, inhabited, fays Strype, by lord Sherbourne and the countess of Denby.'

In 1716, Hanover-fquare, and Cavendish-fquare, were unbuilt but their names appear in the plans of London of 1720. Oxford-ftreet, from Princes-ftreet eallward as far as High-freet, St. Giles's, was almost unbuilt on the north fide. I remember there a deep hollow road, and full of floughs: there was here and there a ragged houfe, the lurking-place of cut throats: infomuch that I never was taken that way by night, in my hackney-coach, to a worthy uncle's, who gave me lodgings at his houfe in George-ftreet, but I went in dread

the

the whole way. The fouth fide was built as far as Swallowftreet. Soho fquare was begun in the time of Charles II. The duke of Monmouth lived in the centre houfe, facing the ftatue, Originally the fquare was called, in honour of him, Monmouthfquare; and afterwards changed to that of King-fquare. I have a tradition, that, on his death, the admirers of that unfortunate man changed it to Soho, being the word of the day at the field of Sedgemoor. The houfe was purchafed by the late lord Bateman, and let by the prefent lord to the Compte de Guerchy, the French ambaffador. After which it was leafed on building leafes. The name of the unfortunate duke is fill preferved in Monmouth-ftrect.'

gay

We have preferred giving our author's account of the former ftate of the fpots which are now covered by the houses of the and opulent; which we tread without an idea of their being once far diftant from the town, the refort of the idle, who would enjoy the country air, or amuse themselves by rural fports. The Strand too, at prefent the scene of business, was a spot in the vicinity only of the capital, which, from its being near Westminster, and on the banks of a beautiful river, was the chofen refidence of the nobility, whofe titles now distinguish the different ftreets which lead to the Thames. In these times, the aristocratic fpirit was more prevalent, and the nobility living in greater state, kept the common people at a distance, and their houses bore their titles to feparate them from those of the plebeians. Few of thefe only remain. There was no continued ftreet in the Strand till 1533; there were only scattered houses, and a village, which gave a name to the whole. The most remarkable houses are described, and a short history of the more important ones is annexed, with the incidents which have rendered the different buildings and the most remarkable places either illustrious or infamous. Tyburn, the once fatal retreat of the unfortunate brave, is the termination of our author's walk in the north-western direction; and he returns by Bloomfbury, Smithfield, Bartholomew's and Christ Church hofpitals, and the Charter-houfe. In this peregrination the inns of court are particularly distinguished in the narrative, and claim much of Mr. Pennant's attention; but we meet with nothing either fo peculiarly new or interefting as to deferve a particular detail. Clerkenwell and the New River-head conclude the walk on this fide.

Our author returns to the Temple, refumes his journey along Fleet-freet, fo far as the fouthern extremity of the ancient walls, to follow them to their oppofite end near the Tower. In this tour, Bolt-court, the refidence of the late Dr. Johnson, is particularly diftinguished, St. Bride's church, Bridewell, and

Fleet

Fleet-ditch, with its later improvements, when it was covered, and united to the oppofite fhore by Blackfriars-bridge, are alfo the objects of Mr. Pennant's attention. It is not generally known that this ditch was formerly a creek, which received the little river Fleet, Turnmill brook, and another called Oldbourne. It was the receptacle of merchandize, brought here by lighters, and depofited on fpacious quays; but it required frequent cleaning, at a vaft expence; and, when a permanent bridge was fixed, in the fite of London-bridge, was of lefs utility. Blackfriars, the Town-ditch, Apothecaries hall, Ludgate, the Old Bailey, Newgate, Alderfgate-ftreet, the Barbican, Cripple-gate, Finfbury (or Fenfbury, for this fpot was alfo once a marfh). Moorfields, London-wall, Devonshire-fquare, Bishopsgateftreet without, Houndfditch, Aldgate, Whitechapel, the Minories (granted formerly to fome poor ladies, or minorees). Goodman's-fields (once the fields of a real farmer of that name), Crutched or Croffed Friars, Patres San&tæ Crucis, and the Tower, fhow the direction of our author's walk; and if our readers recollect the remarkable buildings in this line. will fufficiently evince the fubjects of Mr. Pennant's narrative. Their number prevents our even enumerating them.

The Tower, the scene of many fecret affaffinations, and more public, though often undeferved executions, attracts much of our author's attention Originally the work of a proud, jealous conqueror, it remains only a proof of the little defence the capital could make, if it had not better fortifications, in those floating-batteries which, by infuring refpect to the British name, ward off the fhadow of danger: unfortunate will be the moment, when the most distant apprehenfion of this defence, and of the British courage, shall lead us to raise one fingle stone on another to fupply the defects of either. The hiftory of the events which occurred in this fortrefs, and of the perfons con- nected with them, is added, in which, as well as in many other places of this volume, our author fhows no little partiality to the name of Pennant, and to the defcendants of the ancient Cumhri. Beer, the prefent inspiring liquor of the most robust of Britons, was formerly the drink of our ancestors, and famous even in the days of our turbulent Henry. In this period ten quarters of malt were added to two of wheat, two of oats, and forty pounds of hops to make fixty barrels of beer. The prefent proportions are kept fecret, as it is an important object, in the brewer's eye, to make beer of a given strength, from the leaft poffible quantity of malt: on this account every advantage is taken of the degree of heat employed, the proper degree of fermentation, &c. and the business may now be supposed incapable of farther improvement. The porter brewed from Mid

fummer

fummer 1786 to 1787, was faid to amount to 1,176,856 barrels. This number is too fmall, for only the chief porter brewers are enumerated, and their brewings have, at least in the fubfequent years, greatly exceeded this quantity. The ancient beer-house, which led our author to this difcuffion, was in the neighbourhood of the Tower.

Mr. Pennant proceeds to Stepney, to Wapping, Shadwell, Radcliffe, and Limehoufe; but, perhaps, pays lefs attention to the ftate of the shipping and marine of thefe places than, we think, they deserve. The building-yards are of immense size, and the greatest importance. He returned by Radcliffe Highway, and vifits the Victualling-office, the Cuftom-houfe, Trinity-house, and Billingfgate. Our author's short history of the progreffive increase of the customs is curious and interesting. At Billingfgate, he fays, the epicure will be greatly disappointed, if he goes to eat fish in perfection. At the time of Edward J. conger cels, porpuffes, and dolphins were eaten; but our author is mistaken if he thinks the firft at all times fo indifferent. • Congur in fawce,' in its feafon, is excellent.

London-bridge was certainly built between 993 and 1016, perhaps foon after the first æra, when Unlaf, the Dane, failed up as high as Staines, to prevent fimilar depredations. For a long time, however, the middle part was moveable, to admit of fhips coming farther up the river. It was first of timber, and rebuilt with stone in 1176.

This great work was founded on enormous piles, driven as clofely as poffible together: on their tops were laid long planks ten inches thick, ftrongly bolted; and on them were placed the bafe of the pier, the lowermost stones of which were bedded in pitch, to prevent the water from damaging the work: round all were the piles which are called the fterlings, defigned for the prefervation of the foundation piles. Thefe contracted the fpace between the piers fo greatly, as to occafion, at the retreat of every tide, a fall of five feet, or a number of temporary cataracts, which, fince the foundation of the bridge, have occafioned the lofs of many thoufand lives. The water, at springtides, rifes to the height of about eighteen feet. The length of this vast work is nine hundred and fifteen feet, the exact breadth of the river. The number of arches was nineteen, of unequal dimenfions, and greatly deformed by the fterlings, and the houses on each fide, which overhung and leaned in a most terrific manner. In most places they hid the arches, and nothing appeared but the rude piers. I well remember the street on London-Bridge, narrow, darkfome, and dangerous to paffengers from the multitude of carriages: frequent arches of frong timber croffed the street, from the tops of the houses, to keep them together, and from falling into the river. No

thing but ufe could preferve the reft of the inmates, who foon grew deaf to the noife of falling waters, the clamors of watermen, or the frequent fhrieks of drowsing wretches. Most of the houses were tenanted by pin or needle makers, œconomical ladies were wont to drive from the St. James's end of the town, to make cheap purchases. Fuller tells us that Spanish needles were made here first in Cheapfide, by a negro, who died without communicating the art. Elias Crowfe, a German, in the reign of Elizabeth, was more liberal, and first taught the method to the English. Fuller's definitition of a needle is excellent, quafi ne idle.'

East Cheap, immortalized in the pages of Shakspeare, was formerly the scene of convivial jollity; and the account of Stow fupports the popular opinion of the glories of the roast beef of Old England. The Monument, Fishmonger's-hall, where our author complains that he saw only the names of fish in a lift, or their refemblances on canvas; Cold Harbour; the Steel Houfe (from ftael, trade); Dow-gate, from dwr or dwy, water; Wallbrook, the River of Wells, another creek, which, perhaps, with the River Fleet, contributed to render London a less easy prey to the enemy; the Vintry; Vintners-hall; the Tower Royal, once a place of ftrength, but of which not a veftige remains; Queenhithe; Thames-ftreet, and Puddledock, with the houses of the nobility and other objects in this direction, are next described. Along Thames-ftreet the walls ran; but the bridge and the Tower rendered them ufelefs. The fite of the fouthern line of houses, and the docks, feem to have been gained from the river. Warwick-lane, where he finds the College of Physicians, whofe history and ornaments are fhortly noticed; Stationers-hall, once the refidence of the dukes of Britany, earls of Pembroke, and lord Abergaveny, bring our author to St. Paul's.

St. Paul's cathedral is the fubject of many remarks; but the greater part of the descriptions relate to its state before the fire, by which the fomes of the plague was completely deftroyed; and these are already in our hands, by the industry of the accurate Dugdale. It was built on the fite of an old church, but probably not where any temple of Diana had ever ftood. The foundation of the old church refted on a ftratum of clay, fix feet thick on the north fide, growing gradually thinner towards the fouth: beneath were fucceffively loose fand, fand and water, shells, the rounded stones of a beach, and at last the natural earth, a hard clay. All the space between Camberwell hill and the hills of Effex, were probably once fea, and, at low water, a fandy plain. If this was previous to the fea's bursting through the Straits of Dover, the increafed power of the fea