CHAPTER X.

BETHLEHEM.

I HIRED a guide, and went down to Bethlehem-Ephratah. Passing out by the gate of Bethlehem, I turned to the left, descended the sloping bank into the ravine, leaving on my right the pool of Hezekiah. I mounted up the rocky flat upon the other side, and proceeded in a south-west direction over the plains of Rephaim, where, in the time of David, the Philistines encamped against Zion, and whence they were driven home with immense loss. I passed a little spot of verdant corn-fields, at the meeting of the two valleys which sweep round the city. This in the palmy days of Jerusalem was the gardens of Solomon, irrigated by the waters of the Pool of Siloam. I descended into the desert of the Dead Sea, of the savage sterility of which I shall speak hereafter. I came to Deir, the well of the Magi, where the star appeared to the wise men of the East. I attained the summit of a ridge which commanded an interesting view both of Jerusalem and of Bethlehem; and here a Greek convent has been built called Mar Elyas. I halted to enjoy the striking prospect, and could not do less than pay my respects to the fathers within. Servants took our horses at the door, and a healthy aged priest, with a long white beard,

VIEW FROM THE CONVENT OF MAR ELYAS. 223

dressed in the elegant and ancient costume of his order, clean and fresh-looking, received me with dignity and great kindness. He first led me round the whole establishment to show me the relics and paintings, and then into his own sitting apartments, where a neat refreshment of fruits, bread, wine, water, jellies and coffee was set before me, and pipes were also produced.

But more interesting still, he took me to the top of the Convent, and pointed out all the celebrated places within the range of our eye. Along the country through which our road lay were the battle-fields of David with the Philistines. The place was noticed where the ruined tower of Simeon stood, that venerable prophet who took the Saviour in his arms in the Temple and sung, "Now let thy servant depart in peace according to thy word, for mine eyes have seen thy salvation,-a light to lighten the Gentiles and the glory of thy people Israel." The Tomb of Rachel, who died near Bethlehem travailing with Benjamin, and was buried by the way to Ephrath, was pointed out below me. But the pillar which Jacob set upon her grave, and which is mentioned in Genesis as then still existing, is now gone. Westward among the hills was seen the birthplace and residence of the prophet Samuel. To the south, distant about three miles, lay the massive and imposing town of Bethlehem, covering the ridge of a hill on the southern side of a deep valley, and spreading extensively from east to The soil around the city seemed to be extremely rich, well watered, and very carefully cultivated, presenting a beautiful foreground of flowers and fruits, vines and olives, and also of sesamum. I saw the scene too of the story of Ruth and Boaz, the grandmother and grandfather of David,

west.

224

TEKOAH AND ENGEDI.

an extremely interesting tale illustrative of the purity and simplicity of manners upwards of three thousand years since. The industry of Ruth, the elegant charity of Boaz, the widowed distress of Naomi, her affectionate concern for her daughter, the reluctant departure of Orpah, the dutiful attachment of Ruth, and their sorrowful return to Bethlehem, the respect likewise which the Israelites paid to the law of Moses and their observance of ancient customs, all rendered a sight of the place where the scene is laid very impressive. More distant to the south stood Tekoah, and to the eastward was Engedi, and the cave where David magnanimously refused the opportunity of killing Saul who was in pursuit to kill him at the time. But by far the most conspicuous and hallowed objects in sight were the monastery erected over the cave of the nativity, upon the eastern side of the city in the suburbs, and the plain where the vision of angels appeared to the "shepherds abiding in the field, keeping watch over their flock by night. And, lo, the angel of the Lord came upon them, and the glory of the Lord shone round about them: and they were sore afraid. And the angel said unto them, Fear not, for, behold, I bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all people. For unto you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord. And this shall be a sign unto you; ye shall find the babe wrapped in swaddling clothes, lying in a manger. And suddenly there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly host praising God, and saying, Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will towards men."

I left the convent of Mar Elyas gratified with the hospitality and sights I had enjoyed. Soon after I came to the

TOMB OF RACHEL,-WELL OF BETHLEHEM.

225 Kabbet Rahil-the tomb of Rachel-which I had seen from the convent. It is a small mosque covered by a dome, with an open apartment towards the east and a small enclosure towards the west. A raised longitudinal mound covers the spot in which the remains of the wife of Israel are said to rest. The Jews offer up prayers at a hole in the wall, pleading the marriage of their mother Rachel as a ground of ассерtance before God. In a rude enclosure above the tomb, on the brow of the hill, is Ramah, embosomed in olive trees, which was notorious for the murder of the infants. What an infinite number of sanctified associations thus rise on the mind on approaching Bethlehem, which is really one of the most lovely villages in Palestine!

About twenty minutes' distance from the city I was conducted to a well of pristine renown, and I drank of its waters, which were remarkably pure, delicious, and soft in the mouth as the finest silk may feel to the touch. This fountain is celebrated in Scripture, and not surpassed by any in pagan or sacred history. David at the cave of Adullam had defied the Philistines that were gathered together to battle, and "the Lord had wrought a great victory. And three of the thirty chief went down, and came to David in the harvest time unto the cave of Adullam: and the troop of the Philistines pitched in the valley of Rephaim. And David was then in an hold, and the garrison of the Philistines was then in Bethlehem." And David, being born there, calls to mind during the sultry heat and fatigue of a day in harvest the sweet waters he had so often drank in his boyhood. We read that "David longed, and said, Oh that one would give me drink of the water of the well of Bethlehem, which is by the gate! And the three mighty men,"

226

THE HOUSE OF JESSE.

Adino, Eleazar, and Shammah, having overheard David's exclamation, they sallied forth and broke through the host of the Philistines, "and drew water out of the well of Bethlehem, that was by the gate, and took it, and brought it to David" as a testimony of their valour and affection. The pious monarch received from their hands the pledge they had so dearly earned; nevertheless he would not drink of the water purchased by the blood of the men who went in jeopardy of their lives. He returned thanks to God who had vouchsafed the deliverance of his warriors, and poured the water on the ground as an offering unto the Lord.

I was next conducted to the ruins of the house of Jesse, where David and his seven stately brothers were brought up. Here David spent his early years in the humble occupation of a shepherd, until his encounter with Goliath opened to him a most glorious career; for here the Lord had provided him a king among the sons of Jesse. And Samuel filled his horn with oil, and took a heifer with him that he might sacrifice and anoint unto the Lord whom the Lord might name unto him. "And the elders of the town trembled at Samuel's coming, and said, Comest thou peaceably? and he said, Peaceably; I am come to sacrifice unto the Lord: sanctify yourselves, and come with me to the sacrifice. And he sanctified Jesse and his sons, and called them to the sacrifice. And Jesse made seven of his sons to pass before Samuel. And Samuel said unto Jesse, The Lord hath not chosen these. And Samuel said to Jesse, Are here all thy children? And he said, There remaineth yet the youngest, and, behold, he keepeth the sheep. And Samuel said unto Jesse, Send and fetch him: for we will not sit down until he come thither. And he sent, and brought him