tendency of events, is probably destined to be converted into barracks. There is also a very handsome structure, for a town of so small a population, appropriated as schools for the education of the youth.'- On the top of a precipitous hill stand the remains of a castle built by the Venetians on the scite of a still more antient fortress. At present it has no garrison, and Argos, like Corinth, is ready for any power who may chuse to take it. At the foot of this hill, the old city seems to have been situated; for several broken columns and fragments of edifices are still to be seen in the fields, and the ruins of a theatre may also be traced. After leaving Argos about a mile or two behind, I passed the vast fountain of Erasinos, which is supposed to be the vent of the Stymphalian lake. It flows from a cave at the base of a rocky hill so copiously, as to form at once a considerable river. Within the cave are the ruins of a Christian chapel, where very probably a heathen temple not more idolatrous formerly stood. Crossing the stream of Erasinos, the road presently winds up among the mountains, when the appearance of the country is in every respect as wild, and more barren, than that of the highlands of Scotland. Here and there I passed a few cattle, and saw two or three straggling flocks of sheep. The shepherds were commonly seated near the road; and in one or two instances brought a pitcher of water, which they offered me to drink, in the expectation of being rewarded with a para, a small coin, equal in value to about the fortieth part of a shilling. They had all a remarkable grave and melancholy look, doubtless the effect of their lonely mode of life; and they were armed with muskets to protect their sheep from the wolves and vultures. The time may come when this class of men shall be induced to turn their weapons against their oppressors.' In Tripolizza, Mr. G.'s courage was rather suddenly put to the test: Feeling myself rather tired, I went to bed immediately after supper, but I had scarcely laid my head on the pillow when the whole house began to tremble. It was an earthquake. I instantly started up, and made for the door. Before I had half crossed the room, a second shock much more violent than the first made the whole build ing rattle. "The very principals did seem to rend, I ran back to bed, and for some time after felt that the motions of the house had communicated a sympathetic tremor to my nerves of a very dishonourable kind. However, as none of the inhabitants of the house thought it worth their while to enquire what I thought of the affair, my fears were fortunately concealed, till I could laugh at them myself. In the morning, Dr. Teriano informed me that earthquakes are very common at Tripolizza, but they are seldom so violent as to do much damage. They are severest after warm wet weather, especially if the wind happens to change suddenly to the north, and to blow blow unusually cold. While we were at dinner to-day, another slight motion was felt, but it passed off in a moment, and excited no alarm. These three visits, however, have quite satisfied me, and I desire no further acquaintance with such phænomena. In the afternoon, about four o'clock, I set out for the Seraglio, with the Doctor and the Vizier's Italian secretary. The gate of this palace is not unlike the entrance to some of the closes in Edinburgh, and the court within reminded me of Smithfield in London, but it is not surrounded by such lofty buildings, nor in any degree of comparison so well built.'— We walked through several streets of the town, not one of which is half so well built as the worst village that I remember to have met with in England. The buildings are constructed with large unburnt bricks; and many of the walls being rent by earthquakes, the general features of the city are ruinous and slovenly. The people, however, seemed vastly better dressed than one might have expected from the condition of their houses. Here and there wretched spectacles of squalor and beggary were seen; but, on the whole, the appearance of the inhabitants was respectable. There is no place of public amusement in Tripolizza, except a small pavilion, which the Vizier has constructed near the fortress, where Turks and strangers go to lounge and drink coffee. The Vizier himself frequently dines there. We walked to see it; but when we arrived at the gate, a number of his attendants were in waiting, and his Highness was at dinner within; on which account we did not enter, but proceeded to look at the fortress. Castles I have always regarded as very grave and dignified edifices; but the fortress of Tripolizza has convinced me, that there are exceptions to the rule, and varieties in the species. The castle of Tripolizza had no garrison, nor other guard or sentinel than a prodigious rusty iron padlock, which as effectually secured the gate as the largest-whiskered grenadier of Christendom." Having passed some time at Athens, Mr. G. proceeded to Ægina; where, though he found a miserable town, and a country of unequal fertility, he was much gratified with the independent character of the inhabitants. He was highly pleased to see new buildings rising on the site of the antient capital of the island, and a hope entertained of reviving the commercial exertions of former days. It was the first place at which he had seen the Greeks to advantage, or likely to carry into effect those sentiments which, throughout the whole country, he had found to form the burden of their conversation. • The perfect separation of the Greeks and Turks is certainly not the least interesting circumstance that one meets with in this interesting country. The Turks bear no proportion, in number, to the Greeks. In Athens, the former do not amount to a thousand, and the latter are more than seven times that number. In all the rest of Attica, a Mahomedan is rarely to be seen. In point of capacity, the Greeks are no less superior to the Turks. The habits which they they respectively acquire produce an intellectual result, that is of the same effect as an innate difference of endowment. The Turks here may be considered as domiciliated military: they are idle and insolent. The young, from their earliest years, imitate the practices of the old. A Turkish lad, just entering his teens, carries his pipe, tobacco-pouch, and pistols, with all the gravity of his father; frequents the coffee-houses and the baths with the same arrogance, and passes the time in reveries equally mystical and useless. The Greeks, on the contrary, are all activity and industry. The oppression and injustice with which they are treated by the Turks at once sharpen their spirits and stimulate their address. They are the slaves of the Turks. It is not, however, the slavery of individual servitude, but the degradation of an inferior cast. All handicraft labour, in this part of the country, is performed by them; and, except in those instances where state necessity requires a few persons to be respected, in order to ensure the abedience of the commonalty, they are not permitted to accumulate wealth with impunity, to wear arms, or to resent the injuries of their lordly masters. Examples may be adduced in contradiction to this statement, but they can only be regarded as exceptions against its universality; as a general fact, it is indisputable.' The Athenians, from time immemorial, have been a superstitious people. The history of their antient public transactions is full of the special interposition of the celestial powers; and they are, at this moment, as strongly persuaded that Providence is operating for their emancipation, as ever their ancestors were of the particular patronage of Minerva. As credulous as the Roman Catholics, they seem to consider the power of the saints, as confined to local and particular objects, or rather that the saints have succeeded to the jurisdictions and partialities of the gods of their fathers.' If I were called upon to give a general opinion of the Greeks, as they are at this moment, I should find myself obliged to declare, notwithstanding all my partiality for my own countrymen, that in point of capacity they are the first people I have had an opportunity of observing. They have generally more acuteness and talent than I can well describe. I do not mean. information or wisdom; but only this, that their actions are, to a surprizing degree of minuteness, guided by judgment. They do nothing without having reflected on the consequences. They have the fear of the Turks constantly before their eyes, and their whole study is to elude their tyranny and rapacity. It is owing, no doubt, to the perpetual operation of this fear, that they have incurred the charge of matchless perfidy and cunning. With all their genius and ability, however, there is nothing noble in the character of the Greeks. They are invidious, to a: degree, which even their degraded and oppressed condition is scarcely sufficient to account for.' Besides the Greeks and Turks, the Albanians form, in Greece, a third cast, distinct in their language, manners, customs, and dress. In the country of Attica they outnumber the Greeks, but in Athens they are not numerous. They are found here in a more domesticated state than at Valona. They are a much more simple people than the Greeks; and in all the honest durable qualities of of good citizens, their superiors. They differ also from the Greeks in this respect, that they are a rising people; and the history of the Greek nation has long since been closed. The Greeks, in speaking of their bondage, do not consider the Albanians as fellowsufferers; but, in estimating the means of obtaining emancipation, they have a great reliance on their courage and aid. There is always something like presumption in giving an opinion on a prospective probability; and I know you are very apt to make a grave face when you hear political predictions. Nevertheless, considering the number of the Albanians, and their undebauched qualities, and comparing them with the handful of Turks, and the invidious Greeks, I think the new nation, about to arise in these parts, will be Albanian. The Turks have a number of good military capabilities, and the Greeks may excel in political intrigues, but the Albanians alone possess the solid qualities essential to the founding of a state. Here they have hitherto been known only as husbandmen and shepherds, and in Attica they exhibit many traits of primitive simplicity. Their dress, except in wanting the military cloak, is the same as that which is worn in the neighbourhood of Valona, but in Attica they do not aspire to the dignity of arms. They have, almost universally, both men and women, blue eyes and high cheek-bones, with an air of frankness and contentment in their countenances. The Greeks some. times marry Albanian women, but an Albanian man is rarely thought noble enough to be connected with a Grecian family. Their children never associate with the young Greeks, and have diversions and amusements peculiar to themselves. Being from the earliest moments possible accustomed to assist their fathers and brothers in their agricultural and pastoral employments, it is only on the Sundays that they appear to enjoy any leisure, and then they are commonly seen in little bands at the gates of the town, with whistles formed of reeds, upon which they play alternately, dancing to the sounds, or laughing at the imperfect efforts of their younger companions. Chandler has described the Albanians in Attica, I think, correctly. "It is chiefly their business to plough, sow, and reap; dig, fence, plant, and prune the vineyard; attend the watering of the olive-tree, and gather in the harvest; going forth before the dawn of day, and returning contented on the close of their labour. If shepherds, they live in the mountains, in the vale, or the plain, as the varying seasons require, under arbours or sheds covered with boughs, tending their flocks abroad, or milking the ewes and she-goats at the fold, and making cheese and butter to supply the city. Inured early to fatigue and the sun, they are hardy and robust, of a manly carriage, very different from that of the fawning obsequious Greek." The favourable impressions excited in Ægina were greatly confirmed in Mr. G. by a visit to the island of Hydra or Idra. Nothing can be more barren than this spot: but its convenience in point of navigation has made the inhabitants extremely industrious, and enabled them to rival the enterprize of the antient Phænicians. The town of Idra is well built, and is said to contain not fewer than 20,000 inhabitants.From Idra, the author author sailed in a south-east direction, and landed on the island of Zea, (the antient Cos,) situated to the southward of Attica, and possessing one of the finest harbours in the Archipelago: The island itself is beautiful, and differs greatly from Idra. It appears to have been originally as barren; but, in the course of the many ages that it has been inhabited, the precipitous sides of the hills have been formed into innumerable artificial terraces. The town stands very high; and I counted, on the lower side of the road which leads to it, at one place, forty-nine terraces under me, and in several places on the opposite hills upwards of sixty. The number of these rude but necessary works, more effectually impresses on the mind of a stranger a just notion of the long period that the island has been inhabited by a civilized community, than monuments of greater invention and art. The form of the town resembles that of the city of Idra; but it is inland, and stands much higher. From the sea it appears an inconsiderable village; and even until arriving at the upper part, I thought it in a state of Sicilian dirtiness and misery. However, in getting out of the narrow and nasty lanes by which I ascended to the Consul's house, I was agreeably surprized at its magnitude, and the respectable appearance of many of the buildings. It is said to contain not less than a thousand houses. The population of the island is estimated at upwards of five thousand souls, all Christians.' "Zea is better fitted for being a commercial seat, than to furnish much itself to commerce. Its situation is singularly happy; and, by its excellent port, one might almost conclude that it could not fail to become a place of great trade. It commands equally the Gulph of Egina and the straight that runs up between the large island of the Negropont and Greece. But, as Idra demonstrates, habits of industry are of infinitely more consequence to prosperity, than situation or fertility of soil.' Scio, April 10. In the course of the night, after I had written to you from Zea, the wind became fair, and we again weighed anchor. When I awoke in the morning, we were passing between Andros and Negropont. About noon we saw the fatal Old Men, two large rocks which stand in the middle of the channel, and on which many vessele are annually wrecked. At the closing-in of the day-light we were off the little island of Venus, with Scio on the left, the stupendous mountains of Asia in front, and the hills of Samos and Necaria, blue and distant, on the right. The breeze, which had hitherto continued favourable, now checked round into the north, and so opposed our passage to the city, which is situated on the east side of the island, that it was the middle of the following day before we reached the port. The delay and opposition of the wind I did not however regret ; for the different tacks that we were obliged to make afforded able views of the coast of Chezmaih, and the rural scenery of Scio. agree. The city of Scio, from the innumerable villas, gardens, and windmills, with which it is surrounded, and the trees, interspersed among the houses of the town, has the appearance of a vast village. The vessels in the harbour, the insulated light-houses and fortresses, and |