is so very small, it forces you to open your eyes, whether you will or no: then Monsieur le Curé offers you a pinch of snuff, or a poor soldier shows you his leg, -or a shaveling his box,-or the priestesse of the cistern will water your wheels;-they do not want it; -but she swears by her priesthood (throwing it back) that they do:-then you have all these points to argue, or consider over in your mind; in doing of which, the rational powers get so thoroughly awakened,-you may get them to sleep again as you can.

It was entirely owing to one of these misfortunes, or I had passed clean by the stables of Chantilly.

But the postilion first affirming, and then persisting in it to my face, that there was no mark upon. the two-sous piece, I opened my eyes to be convinced; -and seeing the mark upon it as plain as my nose,-I leaped out of the chaise in a passion, and so saw every thing at Chantilly in spite. I tried it but for three posts and a half, but believe 'tis the best principle in the world to travel speedily upon; for, as few objects look very inviting in that mood,-you have little or nothing to stop you; by which means it was that I passed through St. Denis, without turning my head so much as on one side towards the abbey

-Richness of their treasury! stuff and nonsense !Bating their jewels, which are all false, I would not give three sous for any one thing in it, but Jaidas's lantern;-nor for that neither, only, as it grows dark, it might be of use.

CHAPTER CCXVIII.

Crack, crack,-crack, crack,—crack, crack;—so this is Paris! quoth I (continuing in the same mood): -and this is Paris !-humph!-Paris! cried I, repeating the name the third time,

The first, the finest, the most brilliant!

The streets, however, are nasty.`

But it looks, I suppose, better than it smells.— Crack, crack,—crack, crack;-what a fuss thou makest!-as if it concerned the good people to be informed, that a man with a pale face, and clad in black, had the honour to be driven into Paris at nine o'clock at night, by a postilion in a tawny yellow jerkin, turned up with red calimanco! Crack, crack, crack, crack,-crack, crack. I wish thy -I whip

-But 'tis the spirit of thy nation; so crackcrack on.

Ha!—and no one gives the wall!--but in the school of Urbanity herself, if the walls are b-t,-how can you do otherwise?

And, prithee, when do they light the lamps?— What! never in the summer months!-Ho! 'tis the time of salads.-O rare! salad and soup,-soup and’ salad, salad and soup, encore—

-"Tis too much for sinners.

Now I cannot bear the barbarity of it. How can that unconscionable coachman talk so much bawdy to that lean horse? don't you see, friend, the streets are so villanously narrow, that there is not room in all Paris to turn a wheelbarrow? In the grandest city of the whole world it would not have been amiss if they had been left a thought wider; nay, were it only so much in every single street, as that a man might know (was it only for satisfaction) on which side of it he was walking.

One, two, three,-four,-five, six,-seven,eight,-nine,-ten,-Ten cooks' shops, and twice the number of barbers! and all within three minutes driving! one would think that all the cooks in the world, on some great merry-meeting with the barbers, by joint consent, had said,-Come, let us all go live at Paris: the French love good eating;-they are all gourmands; -we shall rank high;-if their god is their belly,

their cooks must be gentlemen: and, forasmuch as the periwig maketh the man, and the periwig-maker maketh the periwig, ergo, would the barbers say, we shall rank higher still, we shall be above you all,-we shall be capitouls at least,-pardi! we shall all wear swords:

1

And so, one would swear (that is, by candlelight, but there is no depending upon it) they continued to do to this day.

CHAPTER CCXIX.

The French are certainly misunderstood,—but whether the fault is theirs, in 'not sufficiently explaining themselves, or speaking with that exact limitation and precision which one would expect on a point of such importance, and which, moreover, is so likely to be contested by us; or whether the fault may not be altogether on our side, in not understanding their language always so critically as to know what they would be at,'-I shall not decide; but 'tis evident to me, when they affirm, that they who have seen Paris, have seen every thing, they must mean to speak of those who have seen it by day-light.

:

As for candle-light, I give it up;—I have said before, there was no depending upon it;—and I repeat it again but not because the lights and shades are too sharp,-or the tints confounded, or that there is neither beauty nor keeping, &c. . . . for that's not truth; -but it is an uncertain light in this respect,-that in all the five hundred grand hotels, which they number up to you in Paris;-and the five hundred good things, at a modest computation, (for 'tis only allowing one good thing to an hotel) which by candle-light are best to be seen, felt, heard, and understood, (which, by the

i Chief magistrate in Toulouse, &c.

bye, is a quotation from Lilly)-the devil a one of us, out of fifty, can get our heads fairly thrust in amongst them.

This is no part of the French computation; 'tis simply this:

That by the last survey, taken in the year 1716, since which time there have been considerable augmentations, Paris doth contain nine hundred streets : (viz.)

In the quarter called the City, there are fifty-three

streets;

In St. James of the Shambles, fifty-five streets;
In St. Oportune, thirty-four streets;

In the quarter of the Louvre, twenty-five streets; In the Palais Royal, or St. Honorius, forty-nine streets;

In Mont Martyr, forty-one streets;
In St. Eustace, twenty-nine streets;
In the Halles, twenty-seven streets;
In St. Denis, fifty-five streets;
In St. Martin, fifty-four streets;

In St. Paul, or the Mortellerie, twenty-seven streets;
The Greve, thirty-eight streets;

In St. Avoy, or the Verrerie, nineteen streets;
In the Marais, or the Temple, fifty-two streets;
In St. Antony, sixty-eight streets;

In the Place Maubert, eighty-one streets;

In St. Bennet, sixty streets;

In St. Andrew de Arcs, fifty-one streets;

In the quarter of the Luxembourg, sixty-two streets; and

In that of St. Germain, fifty-five streets;

into any of which you may walk; and that when you have seen them, with all that belongs to them, fairly by day-light, their gates, their bridges, their squares, their statues; and have crusaded it, moreover, through all their parish-churches, by no means omitting St. Roche and Sulpice ;-and, to crown all, have taken

a walk to the four palaces, which you may see, either with or without the statues and pictures, just as you choose

--

Then you will have seen

for you, you

-But 'tis what no one needeth to tell will read it yourself, upon the portico of the Louvre, in these words:

Earth no such folks!-no folks e'er such a town
As Paris is !-sing Derry, derry, down.1

The French have a gay way of treating every thing that is Great; and that is all can be said

upon it.

CHAPTER CCXX.

In mentioning the word gay (as in the close of the last chapter) it puts one (i. e. an author) in mind of the word spleen;-especially if he has any thing to say upon it. Not that by any analysis,—or that from any table of interest, or genealogy, there appears much more ground of alliance betwixt them, than betwixt light and darkness, or any two of the most unfriendly opposites in nature;-only 'tis an undercraft of authors to keep up a good understanding amongst words, as politicians do amongst men,-not knowing how near they may be under a necessity of placing them to each other;-which point being now gained, and that I may place mine exactly to my mind, I write it down here,

SPLEEN.

This, upon leaving Chantilly, I declared to be the best principle in the world to travel speedily upon; but I gave it only as matter of opinion. I still con

Non orbis gentem, non urbem gens habet ullam

-ulla parem.