312 Display of Native Genius. -Kirke White, Her daughter's dying slumbers,—but sur priz'd With heaviness, and sunk upon the couch, Dreams of her bridals. Even the hectic, Jull'd From this fine and successful attempt to pourtray the influences of night upon the various classes of the unfortunate, we turn with different feelings to the perusal of the following lines, indicating, in an equal degree, the richness and sprightliness of vagrant fancy, in his "Ode to Contemplation," which combines all the airy and fantastic features of Milton's L'Allegro : "I will meet thee on the hill, In a still different mood, and with different feelings, will the reader contemplate the following passage, which may be thought in its general complexion to be not much unlike Milton, in his greater moments, and certainly to substantiate our author's eminence in the sublime and elevated style of Poetry: "Him, who angust, Was, 'ere these worlds were fashion'd, 'ere the sun Sprang from the East, or Lucifer display'd strain, [April, That Kirke White possessed the ardour of Poetic enthusiasm in its genuine character of inspiration, many of his " Sonnets" and "Fragments" may be thought abundantly to shew. The following, "The Winter Traveller," if it be not one which discovers the most fire of conception, is among the most pathetic delineations of his fancy : "God help thee, Traveller, on thy jour ney far, The wind is bitter keen, the snow o'erlays The hidden pits and dang'rous hollow ways, And darkness will involve thee.-No kind star To night will guide thee, Traveller,-and the war Of winds and elements on thy head will break, And in thy agonizing ear the shriek, Of spirits howling on their stormy car, Will often ring appalling,-I portend A dismal night, and on my wakeful bed Thoughts, Traveller, of thee will fill my head, And him who rides where winds and waves contend, And strives, rude cradled on the seas to guide, His lonely bark through the tempestuous tide." We ought not, perhaps, to dismiss this highly-endowed and interesting Poet, without remarking that the various and enthusiastic tributes to his merit which the uncommon beauty of his writings extorted, at the epoch of their publication, were not unde servedly bestowed, but were his just award. The reflection, likewise, will powerfully strike his discriminating readers,-that, had it pleased the Supreme Disposer of human events, whose purposes of wisdom are not comprehensible by us, to have allotted a longer term of years to the maturer expansion of his powers, he would have taken his station in a very high, perhaps the highest rank amongst the Poetical luminaries which, in our own age brightens the intellectual horizon, and which, if it does not, as certain critics have very unwarrantably assumed that it does, shine with a more cloudless radiance than at any former period, certainly com And startled on his watch, in the vast prehends many Poets of genuine and deep Chaos's sluggish sentry, and evok'd From the dark void the smiling universe." capacious powers of invention. Melksham. E. P. Mr. 1821.] Account of Thetford and its Mineral Spring. Mr. URBAN, in April 6. The Mineral Sproate attracted HE Mineral Spring at Thetford so much attention, that I am induced to send you a description of the Town, and of the newly-erected Pump-room and Baths. Thetford has long been a place of peculiar interest to the Antiquary, from the circumstance of its having formerly been the Sitomagus of the Iceni, whilst Britain endured the Roman yoke; and afterwards becoming the metropolis of East Anglia, under whose Kings it enjoyed a series of prosperity and grandeur, until that sanguinary encounter with the Danish army in the year 870; when, after experiencing all the horrors of a siege, the town, with its monastery, was burnt and destroyed. It had, however, so far recovered its fallen greatness in the days of the Confessor, as to register 947 burgesses. At every approach to the town, a strong impression of its antiquity is excited, by the appearance of many a stately ruin, or its lofty mound and ramparts; and some visible relick at almost every step recalls to the mind its antient splendour, which was such (according to the observation of Sir Henry Spelman) as made Thetford at one period more renowned for churches and religious houses, than any place of equal size throughout the island. But the dissolution of monasteries and the relentless hand of Time have so diminished the number of the former, that only three out of twenty are now remaining; and of the latter, little need be said on this occasion, except that the foundation stone of the Abbey or Cluniac Prioryt, was laid by Henry I. in person; and that it was the burial-place of several of the Earls of Norfolk, and contained also numerous monuments of the Bigods, Mowbrays, and Howards.The Bishop's see, of which it once could boast, was removed to Norwich by Herbert de Losinga in 1094. Queen Elizabeth had a house in this town, which was frequently vi * See a full account of the Religious Houses, with views of their remains, in Martin's "History of Thetford," publish. ed by Mr. Gough, 1779, 4to. + See a View of the Remains of the Priory, in vol. L. 405. GENT. MAG. April, 1821. 313 sited by her successor James I. in the hunting season. The population is now estimated at about 3000; and although the town is irregularly built, it contains several excellent houses; it has a neat market-place, good inns, a Wesleyan and Independent Chapel, a well-endowed Grammar School, and a spacious Town Hall, where the Lent Assizes for the county of Norfolk have been invariably held 700 years; the Jury boxes aud seats of one of the Courts are so constructed, as to be removed at pleasure, when it is occasionally made use of for concerts and assemblies. The mail and other coaches pass through daily. The town is governed by a Mayor, Recorder, ten Aldermen, and twenty Common Council, who send two Members to Parliament. The chalybeate waters of Thetford have been long known: the late Dr. M. Manning of that place having been primarily instrumental in their re-discovery, after the probable lapse of ages; and having written an analytical treatise upon them,-but this having been drawn up in Latin, in consequence of its forming an appendix to a larger work in that language on mineral waters in general, published in 1746 (of which appendix a translation has been just given to the public), they remained till very lately in obscurity, when certain circumstances having happily occasioned the re-opening of the Spring, its justlyincreasing reputation induced the inhabitants, in the course of the year 1819, to seek its further analysis, considering this preliminary step as one of the utmost importance, not only to the public, but to the medical practitioner. They accordingly entrusted this research to Mr. Accum*, of chemical celebrity; the result of whose scientific examination being most satisfactory, a company was immediately formed, for the purpose of erecting suitable buildings, and setting out the grounds for general accommodation. The first stone was laid See the Guide to the Chalybeate Spring of Thetford, by Frederick Accum, published by T. Boys, Ludgate Hill, 1819. Sec. II. pp. 55-64, for a full account of the medical properties of the water of Thetford. by 31.4 Thetford Mineral Spring.-Tour in Germany. by his Grace the Duke of Grafton, on the 18th of Sept. 1819; and in the month of October following, the Spring was honoured by a visit from H. R. H. the Duke of Gloucester. The building, which is an exceedingly neat elevation, is now completed, and has been opened to the Public about twelve months. It comprises a commodious and well-proportioned Pump-room, in which is a recess, where stands a classically embellished pedestal, through which the water is introduced. Here, also, London and provincial papers are furnished, with Magazines and other periodical publications. Adjoining this room are the superintendants' apartments, and behind are the hot and cold baths, which were erected wholly under the direction of Mr. Accum, and are replete with every convenience. In the yard the poor are supplied with the water gratis. The situation of the edifice, between the tranquil streams of the Lesser Ouse and Thet, far exceeds any idea the mere cursory traveller through Thetford can conceive; and the approach from the bridge, leaving the nunnery on the left, is on the gently-winding bank of the former river, from whence the building makes a most pleasing appearance, seated in the centre of a lawn, and embosomed in trees of luxuriant growth. The prospect from the Pump-room of the adjacent meadows, nunnery, bridges, the waters, and promenade, is highly picturesque. Leaving the buildings, and pursuing the course of the Ouse, the bank of which is skirted and adorned by elms and other forest trees,--we pass through an avenue to the small bridges, where the promenade may be considered to terminate; and immediately below which is the confluence of the two rivers, from whence the navigation to Lynn com mences. The wooded and delightful scenery of this part of Thetford exhibits a character so totally different from the surrounding country, that it is but justice to entreat the attention of the stranger. I venture, however, to affirm, he will be amply repaid by the visit; and I have confidence in further asserting, that the well-authenticated proofs of the medical properties of the mineral waters of Thet [April, ford, already published, have secured LETTERS FROM THE CONTINENT. Brussels, Sept. 2, 1818. My last dated from Maestricht brought matters to our depar ture from Cologn. On Sunday evening we went a stage to the village of BERGHEIM, to sleep. We passed in the street of Cologn another batch of carriages in the Emperor of Austria's retinue, proceeding to Aix. Mrs. Murray had given us such an alarming account of the exhorbitant charges for beds at Aix, that we determined not to attempt to sleep there, but to contrive, by proceeding on Sunday night to Bergheim, to accomplish a stage beyond Aix in one day. On quitting Cologn we entered a flat country, but the Seven Mountains still formed a fine marked outline to the South-east. We found a village inn at Bergheim, the sign of the Red House, and were very well entertained; the landlady is a respectable old woman, and has seen better days; her husband was an Advocate who lost his property by the Revolution, and who has now left her a widow with a family to provide for. Her daughter, an agreeable and welleducated young woman, waited on us at supper, and both she and her moand kept us in talk. The young lady ther occasionally sat down at table was free and familiar, without for wardness. The old lady gathered some mushrooms for supper; she presented us with some sprigs of migno nette, saying, "Je suis une vieille femme, mais avec un bon cœur.". It is only a year and a half since they be gan to keep the Inn; unfortunately for them there is another small Inn in the village, the sign of which is the Duke of Wellington, the Duke baying once lodged there; and I fear this will attract the English to the rival house. We met between Cologn and Aix about 30 carriages filled with the English who are leaving Aix. August 31.-We set off at half-past five, and reached JULLIERS to break The above-mentioned Treatise, Accum's Thetford Guide, and Mr. Bailey's Letter to the Committee. fast. 1821.] Tour in Germany.-Aix la Chapelle. fast. The country was flat; this is a small market town. On the road between Cologn and AIX LA CHAPELLE we had 1760 milestones in 43 miles. Of German miles, 15 make a degree of the Equator; of English 694; consequently a German mile is about four English miles and 2-3rds. Every German mile on this road was divided into 200 parts by milestones; at the end of every 50, a larger stone marked a quarter of a mile; at the end of a mile there was a large pillar marked with the mile, after which it again proceeded with the small stones, of which three or four are always in sight, and the traveller therefore knows to the 200th of a mile his distance from the place; for instance, if the stone be marked 1202, he is six German miles and 2-200ths distant. We had a gradual rise on approaching Aix, and afterwards a descent into a beautiful valley about five miles wide, in which the town stands. It is built on the side of a gentle hill in the midst of a valley. The town is large and old, but contains some good streets, and handsome hotels. Our Inn, the Hotel d'Holland, was one of the second rate. It was twelve when we arrived, and we hired a Commissioner to shew us the most interesting things. He carried us, in the first place, to a very large handsome public assembly-room, where a number of gentlemen and ladies were sitting at a gaming-table; several were looking on; every thing was conducted with great decorum and stillness. In the neighbourhood of this building there are piazzas with little shops, in which baubles, trinkets, prints, &c. are sold, as at the Palais Royal in Paris; in the middle is a small square planted with trees. He then took us to the Imperial Bath, the oldest in the town, erected by Charlemagne 1000 years ago; it had fallen into ruins, but Bonaparte repaired it, and there is an inscription, importing that in honour of that great Prince, the Emperor Charlemagne, the Emperor Napoleon caused the baths to be restored. The temperature of the water in the bath, by my thermometer, was 122, which I think is much higher than the Bath water; the taste is sulphureous. We proceeded to the Minster, or Cathedral, the oldest part of which was built by Charlemagne. He was buried under the centre of the dome; 315 over the spot is a plain blue slab in the pavement, inscribed "Carolo Magno." This Cathedral is chiefly remarkable for its relics, some of which are shewn to the public, but the rest are reverently preserved in a chest, and are only brought out once in seven years. This exhibition used to draw Pilgrims from all quarters, and on one single day in the 15th century, 140,000 persons viewed the relics, and the amount of their gifts was 80,000 pieces of gold. The shewer of the relics not happening to be in the way, we saw none of these curiosities, as we had not much time to waste, but the mention of a few will give you an idea of the rest. The skull and thigh-bones of Charlemagne ; Aaron's rod; some manna from the wilderness; the girdles of Christ and the Virgin; some wood from Christ's cross; the cloth on which John the Baptist was beheaded. At this Cathedral we saw people praying with extended arms, as they do at Ghent and Antwerp. Several men and women before the altar were praying aloud without any priest; one acted as chief speaker, and the rest chimed in at intervals. We next went to the Church of the Franciscans, to see two paintings by Rubens, recovered from Paris; a descent from the cross, and a dead Christ on the Virgin's lap. They did not strike us so much as the grand painting at St. Peter's, at Cologn, but there was a full sun on these paintings, which we had no means of excluding. We concluded our tour by going to the Tribune of Justice, where a woman was on trial for the murder of her mother; five Judges in black gowns, without wigs or powder, were on the bench; the prisoner was on their right, and the Jury on their left. The prisoner was undergoing a very strict examination by the Judges, but as all was in German, we could not understand it; it was quite plain, however, that she was called on to account for her conduct as proved by the depositions of witnesses; she was very voluble in her answers, and when her explanations did not satisfy the Court, the Judges replied to her in a tone of dissatisfaction, shook their beads, and directed particular parts of the depositions which were inconsis tent with her account to be shewn to her. 316 Tour in Germany.-Aix la Chapelle, &c. [April, her. This manner of treating a prisoner may forward the ends of justice, as it assists in bringing the guilty to punishment; but it is directly contrary to the law of England, which does not allow the Judge or Magis. trate to draw from the prisoner any thing, except for his vindication. The custom with us is to caution the prisoner not to say any thing which may prejudice himself, and if he should make any unguarded admission, the Judge lays no stress on it to the Jury. There is one point in which they have improved upon us: the verdict of the Jury is that of the majority; this is certainly better than the absurd and barbarous law which requires 12 men to be of the same mind, leaves a Juryman no alternative but perjury or starvation, and puts it in the power of one weak or interested man, by his obstinacy, to overrule the good sense and consciences of the majority. It is strange enough that the trial by Jury in the dominions of the King of the Netherlands, is about to be abrogated. Exactly at one the Court adjourned till four for dinner, and we finished our ramble, which had only occupied us an hour. The most profound silence was kept in the Court, so that you might have heard a pin fall if the least rustling took place, the hiss of soldiers with fixed bayonets, placed round the hall, silenced it. We found we should have had no difficulty in procuring beds; there were plenty at our inn, and almost every house had lodgings to let in the windows. Most of the company had left Aix to make room for the Congress and the retinue of the Sovereigns, and now the Congress is postponed for 3 weeks. In the mean time the Duke of Wellington is reviewing the Allied Armies. We had a good dinner at the table d'hôte; the ladies were very splendidly dressed; they must have spent many hours in brightening and plaiting their hair, which is more elaborately dressed than that of our English women. I sat next a gentleman of Mayence, who has made two visits to England, and returns *The result of this trial was afterwards stated in the Newspapers. After the accused had been daily brought up, and teazed and catechised, for about a fortnight, she was condemned to have her right hand cut off, and afterwards to be hanged. thither immediately after Congress. A well-dressed female played concertos on the harp during dinner, accompanied by two violins. This town is pronounced Aize. From Aix to MAESTRICHT we had a stage of 20 miles after dinner. On our arrival we found the postillion had not taken us the great road, but a mere byeway across the country. We had been previously surprised at the badness and ruggedness of the road; it was chiefly over hills, till we approached Maestricht, when we de scended into a valley watered by the river Meuse. We arrived at half-past eight at the Levrier (the Harrier) in Maestricht, the cleanest and best Inn since we left Amiens. The weather for three days has been without rain, and is now warm and settled. Our landlady, a respectable well-dressed woman, with her daughters, were at table at supper. After supper she requested a German gentleman to sing, which he did, accompanying himself on the guitar; he had a fine voice, and sung a number of national songs, in some of which the company joined in chorus. On the roads, and in public works in this country, it is customary for prisoners in chains to be employed. Between Aix and Maestricht we quitted the King of Prussia's domi nions for those of the King of the Low Countries. Sept. 1.-Maestricht is a strongly fortified town, with about 16,000 inhabitants. The soldiers in the garri son are principally Swiss. It is a wellbuilt town; the grand place and priocipal streets are spacious and handsome, and the shops more substantially good than at Aix. It is very pleasantly situated on the banks of the Meuse, a broad handsome river, and there are gentle hills on both sides. The Cathedral of St. Servaix is an old irregular building, with Saxon exterior and Grecian interior. We walked for about a mile and a half near the banks of the river, to see the subterranean stone quarries, which present a most remarkable instance of the effects of persevering human labour during many centuries. At the side of a hill, about a quarter of a mile from the river, we came to an arched way, leading horizontally into the interior of the bill. Of these inlets or outlets, in the course of about |