round velvet collar, that sits perfectly flat: they are fastered at the neck with a silk cordelière. The cloaks are wadded and lined with Florence (sarsnet), or any other light silk.

HATS AND CAPOTTES.-The materials for winter hats are velvet, volours Epinglé, and figured satins. The crowns are still worn high, and the fronts rather larger than they have been, especially deeper. Metres of ribbon are very prevalent round the fronts of the hats. The trimming is of satin ribbon, and a bouquet of hedge-roses and lavender made in velvet. These beautiful flowers, pour le moment, supersede all others: feathers are also becoming fashionable. The fronts of the bonnets are ornamented underneath with bows of pink and blue ribbon, or a small wreath at each side of velvet

roses.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON TOILETTES. -Plain corsages, high and low, fitting the bust as tightly as possible, are more generally adopted than any others. In dress, the sleeves à double sabot, and for morning wear the sleeves à l'imbécile, are still worn. It is probable that the long sleeves will diminish a little in width from the elbow down, as they are not so agreeable in winter as in summer. The waists are lengthening a little, and the dresses are worn very long. The Controsières font leur possible, to bring in flounces. I doubt, however, that they become generally worn: selon moi, if the ladies study the becoming, they will not adopt them, unless a blonde flounce on a satin dress. They do very well for persons who are so very tall as you and I: mais pour les petites femmes-they are affreux! They talk of short trains becoming fashionable this winter. The costume à l'antique will decidedly be adopted again this season by our merveilleuses. The coiffures à la Clotilde, sont toujours de mode, the bandeaux lisses (smooth bands) are much worn at present; the hair is brought down low at the sides of the face, and turned up again. This style of coiffure is pretty for young persons, with a pearl band round the head and crossing the brow.

In LINGERIE, the newest and prettiest article I have seen, is the collar called " Col à la Louis XIV. ;" a large collar embroidered all over in rich flowers, on a running pattern, and trimmed with lace.

NEW MATERIALS.-For grandes toilettes d'hirer, the newest materials are the satin Médicis, a rich satin stamped with velvet flowers, and broché in gold.

The satin Isabelle, the same material, only broché in silver.

The satin Scarron-a striped satin, broché in a large antique pattern of flowers; a perfect imitation of the satins of the time of Louis XIV. and Madame de Maintenon.

Satin Française de Foir-the same material, without being striped.

Satin Diana de Poictiers-a satin striped à Colonnes, with cut velvet.

Satin Montespan.—a rich satin, the ground in general white, with a delicate and very beautiful running pattern of natural flowers all over; the stems and leaves in gold. This is one of the most beautiful of our new materials.

COLOURS. The prevailing colours are, grenat, raisin de Corinthe, mahogany, browns of various shades, violet, pink, cherry colour, and green.

Adieu, ma belle et bonne amie, mon Mari l'embrasse ainsi que moi, à toi pour la vie,

L. de F.

DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. (No. 21.)-TOILETTE DE BAL.-Dress of white crape, the corsage plain and fitting tight to the bust, with draperies à la Sévigné, put on in full folds, and finished in the centre of the front of the corsage with a small bow of satin ribbon edged with narrow blonde, from whence springs a very small bouquet. The sleeves à double sabot, are immensely full at top, and reach below the elbow, where they are finished by a deep ruffle à la Louis XV. The front breadth of the dress is ornamented with a rich satin trimming en tablier, called "garniture à Epines en satin;" for the form of which we refer our readers to the plate itself. It is cut at the edge in inverted scollops, edged with a small piping, and trimmed with very narrow blonde; small bouquets are placed at distances-(see plate), and it is finished at the bottom with three large bows of satin ribbon and bouquets. On each sleeve is a long epaulette of satin cut out at the edge to match, and ornamented with bows and bouquets: the ceinture is also edged with blonde, and finishes by two silk tassels. The back hair is in six high, but very light, coques or bows on the summit of the head: the front hair is à la Mancini, very much parted on the forehead, and brought in thick clusters of ringle's to the sides of the head: a round flat bow of hair with a jewel in the centre is immediately over the brow.-(See plate.) A wreath of small mixed flowers crosses the back of the head, and mingles with the curls at the sides. Necklace and earrings, à l'antique, of pearls and gold: white kid gloves, silk stockings à jours, black satin shoes. The sitting figure shows the reverse of the dress, with this difference, that the corsage is ornamented with a mantille of point lace, and a puffing of satin ribbon on the shoulders, which gives the dress a novel and elegant effect.

(No. 22.) GRAND COSTUME DE GALA A L'ANTIQUE. The picture, for so we may term this very beautiful plate, gives the idea of a modern saloon fitted up à l'antique. The costume of the principal figure, as may

be remarked, is adapted to the most elevated class of society-even to Royalty itself; whilst those of the lesser figures, being composed of lighter and less costly materials, is better fitted to more juvenile beauties, who love to trip it on the light fantastic toe."-First or principal figure: An open robe of green velvet; the corsage made à l'antique, and fitting as tightly as possible to the bust: large sleeves à la Venitienne, open from the shoulder, lined with rich white satin, and trimmed with point lace. These open sleeves are worn over others of white satin, which are made exceedingly full and are very short.-(See plate.) The skirt of the dress, which is excessively full, and without any trimming whatever, is open from the waist, leaving the point of the corsage to be seen in the centre. The under dress is of splendid white satin, lamé or broché enor: round the neck is a row of very narrow point lace. Coiffure à la Berthe. This singular coiffure of the tenth century, which is becoming prevalent in the higher circles at Paris, is composed of lama gauze. The calotte or crown is round, rather flat at top, fitting the head as nearly as possible: a thick bourrelet or immense roll of gauze forms the leaf (see plate); it is lower in the centre of the front and higher at the temples: two other immense rolls of gauze depend from it, descending low at each side of the face, in the style of the braids à la Clotilde. The hair with this coiffure is worn in plain bands, but descending very low at the sides.

Necklace, two rows of pear pearls à l'antique. The front of the corsage is ornamented with jewels; the armlets, which are magnificent, are emeralds set à l'antique. White kid gloves, white satin shoes and silk stockings.

The second figure (with the fan) gives the reverse of the above costume; but is composed of lighter materials. The dress is of blue satin; and the coiffure, à la Berthe, is of blue gauze Donna Maria.

The third figure, seated at the pianoforte, is in modern ball costume. The dress is of white crape or gauze, corsage uni (plain), sleeves short and full; the corsage ornamented round the neck with a deep fall of blonde. The back hair is in high coques or bows, the front in plain smooth bands, brought very low at the sides of the face, and turned up again.

Fourth figure-looking from the adjoining apartment. The hair at the back is in two high coques, encircled by a braid; the front hair, which is much parted on the forehead, is in light curls on the temples.

We recommend this plate to our fair readers as a beautiful illustration for the "scrap-book." The curious and richlycarved mantel-piece, the antique oak-chair with its rich damask covering and gold fringes, the window drapery, the oldfashioned picture-frame with the family arms carved at top, cannot fail to render it a curious specimen of the "olden time," now about to be revived in the courtly circles at Paris.

PHONOMIONE.-La Voleur tells us of something which surpasses all that has ever been done before- an instrument which closely imitates the human voice! so closely as not to be distinguished from a fine chorus of male voices, even by one of the dilettante of Vienna, in an adjoining room. We wait to hear more about it.

BONAPARTE AT SCHOOL.-The following is given in a French paper as from notices of his family in the last Revue Retrospective, and forming the report of M. Renalis, inspector of military schools in 1784, on this pupil. "M. de Bonaparte, born the 15th of August, 1769; height four feet ten inches, ten times past fourth class, good constitution, excellent health, character quiet, with many virtues and docile, conduct very regular; has been always distinguished for application to the mathematics; very fairly acquainted with history and geography; not far advanced in higher literature; in Latin only attained the fourth class; would make an excellent governor of prisoners: he deserves to be sent to the military school at Paris." Yet under all these simple charac

teristics of the good inspector, lay latent the fires that burst at Toulon, shone at Lodi, blazed in the first consul and emperor, and were only quenched in the ambition to conquer Asia, perhaps the world!

MILITARY GLORY.-What lady, besides the interest which the sex must ever feel in the heroism which they so much inspire, is not in some relation or other connected with the army or navy. Correspondently painful must it be, therefore, to observe the vague calumnies with which it is now attempted to tarnish the laurels on which British officers for a time repose-to hold them up as acquiring from a sanguinary code a disposition only to exercise cruelty over their subordinate companions in arms. We are hence glad to learn that this attempt will quickly be defeated, by a publication which will show that the military code is one of pure beneficence; that those who act under it, as they are bound to do, are inspired by it only with lessons of military virtue, and are desirous of availing themselves in every way to prove their advancement with the age. This is to be done by a veteran now