« AnteriorContinuar »
filled us with painful regrets and sympathies, have Indeed the hat may be regarded as the type of its not failed at the same time to excite very serious wearer. We believe that in a majority of cases apprehensions with regard to the fate of the fash- we could define the individual with no other data ions. Shall we not soon be compelled to wear than his hat. Given the hat,-to find the profesblue blouses and l'habits des artisans and all sorts sion, the opinions and the habits of the man would of misshapen and uncomfortable vestments ? For be a problem capable, we think, of easy solution. deliverance from such perils, we look to Lamar- Suppose the persons unknown to pass by us, betine, who is said to be the best dressed man of the hind a screen just high enough to conceal them, metropolis. Like all truly great Frenchmen, he but to allow a sight of their hats, we should say, understands the theory of the toilet. For no qual that under the low slouched hat, which moves opity was the greatest of Frenchmen more remarka- ward with a jerk, there is a money-lender of the ble than his intuitive good taste in such matters. Mosaic brotherhood; the smart, pert, shining hat, A very entertaining work published in Paris in 1832, set jauntily on one side, is worn by a dandy clerk; under the title of “ Code Civil, Manuel Complet the humble, unresisting chapeau covers a clergyde la Politesse, du Ton, des Manières, de la bon- man of low church principles ; the misshapen, carene Compagnie, &c.," relates a characteristic anec- less hat of roogh nap bespeaks the husband, while dote on this point. On the morning of Napoleon's beneath the highly respectable, well-brushed hat interview with Alexander of Russia on the Nie- there may be seen a “Celebs in search of a wise," men, Murat and General Dorsenne rode up together of whom we would be willing to swear, like Clasto take their places in his train ; Murat as usual dio in the play, “ If he he not in love with some tricked out with feathers and embroidery and stars— woman, there is no believing old signs : he brushes Dorsenne in that simple and elegant dress which his hat o'mornings: what should that bode !" rendered him the model of the army. Napoleon We are persuaded that the fashionable hat of our greeted Dorsenne with a smile of singular cour time is the most ungraceful head-dress that was tesy, then turning abruptly round upon Murat, he ever devised. No hat of a past age, since gentle. said, “Go and put on your marshal's uniform; you men have discarded steel and iron from their warhave the air of Franconi's."
drobe, was so ill-adapted to its purposes or so litBut we are again wandering. And as we fear tle becoming to the person. Nor can we find so that what we have written so far is likely to be of bad an article anywhere at the present day. There little practical value, we shall proceed at once to is the turban, which is worn by unbelievers, which some useful hints with reference to certain partic. never gives one the head-ache-quite a model headular articles of dress. Here we beg to go along dress in comparison. The peaked hat of the Spanwith an esteemed old author, who discussed the ish contrabandista,-such as is worn by Fra Dia. same subject long ago :
volo in the third act,-is far more picturesque. “ To begin firste with their hattes. Sometymes Even the queer looking thing which we see on the thei use them sharpe on the croune, pearking up head of Mephistopheles in the German etchings, like the spere or shafte of a steeple, standing a though somewhat unpleasantly associated with the quarter of a yarde above the croune of their heades; qualities of that unamiable individual, is a prettier some more, some lesse, as please the phantasies of attire. Recent events have brought into Fogue : their inconstant mindes. Othersome be flat and hat, which is capable of being managed in good broade in the croune, like the battlements of a hands very effectively, but which may be greatly house."
abased, the Mexican sombrero. But the hat, the Now the hat is a very important matter. How most to our fancy, that we have ever seen, (and we much may depend upon it, no one can tell. It is have seen this only on paper,) is the one which the first object on which the eye rests in regarding the engravers represent as having contained within the appearance of a stranger; and this, perhaps, its ample dimensions “as much wisdom as could may be the reason that we are so much swayed in live" in the head of Sir Francis Bacon. It is our prepossessions by its condition. If we meet a comely, sober, and comfortable. man, for instance, who wears a “shocking bad hat,” As we cannot hope to regulate the style, however, we at once set him down as a person of no con- and bring out such a hat as we should most desire, sideration, while a new castor never fails to impart it becomes us to make the best of the prevailing a certain pleasing air to the features which it sur- mode. And we shall take the liberty here of ofmounts. It is worthy of remark, too, that if we fering some good hints to the reader as to the sewould describe a person, the description commen- lection of his hat. 1st. Get a new one every three ces invariably with the hat. The messenger of months or at least semi-annually. 2nd. Never be Hotspur, when he would announce the coming of in advance of the fashion, but be content to keep Prince Hal, glittering in golden coat, begins very up with it. 3rd. Never wear a white hat, unless naturally,
for plantation purposes, and then get a broad brin.
But above all, never put a black string around it. " I saw young Harry,—with his beaver on." Leave that to the stable boys. 4th. Do not rely too
enuch on your own whims, but select a good shop eagles been successful under any other neck-cloth. for your purchases and leave the fitting to the How far the cravate blanc influenced the fortunes dealer.
of his last battle, we leave to our readers to exReader, if you can give us four better maxims plain. than these, you may take-oor hat.
Closely connected with the cravat is the shirt The next article in our synthesis of dress, (for collar; and a consideration of this will at once inwe are proceeding synthetically,) is the cravat, of volve us in the vexata quæstio, whether they should which a French writer has said “ L'art de mettre be worn standing. The inventive genius of Lord sa cravate est à l'homme du monde ce que l'art de Byron, as is well known, was exhibited in the indonner à diner est à l'homme d'état." We should troduction of a new style of collar, which has ever say that it is not to the man of the world alone that since been called by his naine, and is of universal the art of tying the cravat is important, and that adoption among ourselves. We consider this style diplomacy has never suffered so much from bad as altogether the most natural and as affording a dinners as mankind from vicious and erroneous closer approximation than any other to the primitive views on this subject. When we consider that it freedom of the neck. Latterly, we have been callencircles the region of the epiglottis and deeply ed upon to adopt the standing style and made to pass affeets the respiration of the wearer, it will be sub jugo, under the yoke, and we cannot help fanseen at once how important it is to have it rightly cying that to the eye of a foreigner, we must look, adjusted. We propose not to enter upon a histor- under this unaccustomed restraint, very much like ical treatise of the cravat, or we might easily de- the dandies that Biddy Fudge saw in Paris; monstrate that it had its origin in the effeminacy of the later days of Rome and was not introduced
“Quite a new sort of creatures, unknown yet to scholars, among our immediate ancestors, until the early That seats, like our music-stools, soon must be found them,
With heads, so immovably stuck in shirt collars, part of the 17th century. The impetus given to to twirl when the creatures may wish to look round them.” the manufacture of English silks by the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1685, brought cravats After all, the whole question is perhaps a physical into general use, and it may now be safely assumed one and resolves itself into this—whether the neck that the human neck will never regain its former to be enveloped is handsome or otherwise. Dr. freedom.
Holmes, in his poem of Urania, discusses it very The best material for the cravat is satin or satisfactorily, arriving at the conclusion that the silk of an uniform color. Glaring colors should be standing style is to be preferred. avoided and stripes and spots are most objectionable. It should be folded in the simplest manner “Our freeborn race, averse to every check, and tied in a common knot, so loosely as lo allow Has tossed the yoke of Europe from its neck ; the neck the " largest liberty" that can be attain
From the green prairie, to the sea-girt town, ed.
The whole wide nation turns its collars down. With regard to the white cravat, for purposes of “ The stately neck is manhood's manliest part ; full dress, although sanctioned by general usage,
It takes the life-blood freshest from the heart; we have our doubts. Few persons are improved
With short, curled ringlets close around it spread, in appearance by it, and those of dark complex
How light and strong it lists the Grecian head!
Thine, fair Erectheus of Minerva's wall ;ion are rendered positively frightful from the con
Or thine, young Athlete of the Louvre's hall, trast. Fair skins and blue eyes-genuine Saxon Smooth as the pillar flashing in the sun characteristics-consort very well with the white That filled the arena where thy wreaths were won,-cravat, and it always imparts to such persons an
Firm as the band that clasps the antlered spoil air of repose, that is quite taking. On the whole,
Strained in the winding anacondas coil!
I spare the contrast: it were only kind we should regard it as an article that could not be
To be a little, nay, intensely blind : too cautiously adopted. There is said to be dan
Choose for yourself: I know it cuts your ear; ger in it, too. We have seen an ingenious hypo- I know the points will sometimes interfere; thesis, which assumed that the bronchial affections,
I know that osten, like the filial John, 50 prevalent among the clergy, resulted altogether
Whom sleep surprised with half his drapery on, from their white cravats. There is some plausi
You show your seatures to the astonished town
With one side standing and the other down;bility at least in this conjecture. We have a friend,
But O my friend! my favorite fellow man! remarkable for his energy and his eloquence in the If nature made you on her modern plan, pulpit, who enjoys excellent health, which we have Sooner than wander with your windpipe bare,been in the habit of attributing to the fact that he
The fruit of Eden ripening in the air,never wears white cravats. It may be mentioned
With that lean head-stalk, that protruding chin,
Wear standing collars, were they made of iin! too, as a curious coincidence, that on the fatal day
And have a neck-cloth-by the throat of Jove! of Waterloo, Napoleon appeared for the first time Cut from the funnel or a rusty stove!" in the field in a white cravat. The sun of Austerlitz had seen him in black silk, and never had his Proceed we to the coat--the loga virilis--the
garment of the man. But hold,—the limits we have woman seems to have been made fair for the very assigned ourselves will not admit a full discussion purpose of being the object of our expenditures, of this most voluminous subject; already the pile and as we set a gem of purest water in the costof MS. at our side admonishes us, (as the face- liest casket, it appears only proper that she should tious imitator of Dr. Johnson has expressed it,) that be the recipient of the finest wardrobes that our “all things that have an end must be brought to a pockets can furnish. Paying the piper, however, conclusion,” and as we have something to say on generally gives one the privilege of directing the other matters, we must dismiss the coat with a sin- music, and it is clear that in the changes of their gle remark. It is that subdued colors should al- fashions, we may fairly claim to have our own lastes ways be preferred, and only the best tailor should consulted. The right also attaches of speaking be permitted to construct the garment.
out freely with regard to the whole system. A few more suggestions will suffice on the The- The great fault of womankind at the present day, ory of the Toilet. And these we think may be we think is, that of overdressing. There is a 100best given by farther quotations from Dr. Holmes : muchness in their attire, which offends the critical
eye. Now we might be justified in attacking this “Wear seemly gloves; not black nor yet too light, on economical grounds. But we scorn this advanAnd least of all the pair that once was white;
tage. We object to it only as violating the rules Let the dead party where you told your loves Bury in peace its dead bouquets and gloves ;
of propriety. We do not like to see a lovely form Shave like the goat, if so your fancy bids,
concealed beneath a profusion of lawdry ornaments, But be a parent,- don't neglect your kids.
or burdened with an infinity of fineries. This er:
travagance is bad enough any where, but it is not Be shy of breastpins ; plain, well-ironed white, 10 be tolerated on the street. And yet it is almost With small pearl buttons,-1 wo of them in sight,- universal. With the return of the autumnal gloIs always genuine, while your gems may pass ries of the shops, we shall expect to see large numThough real diamonds, for ignoble glass.
bers of our charming friends, on their morning But spurn those paltry cis-Atlantic lies, That round his breast the shabby rustic ties ;
walks, so outrageously attired, that we may almost Breathe not the name, profaned to hallow things
say of them, like the heroine of the Samson AgoThe indignant laundress blushes when she brings." nisles, In our remarks on the interesting subject before
"But who is this, what thing of sea or land?
Female of sex it seems, us, the attentive reader cannot have failed to no
That so bedeck’d, ornate, and gay, tice that as yet we have said nothing of the gen
Comes this way sailing tler sex, without a large reference to whom any Like a stately ship treatise on the toilet must of necessity be quite in. Or Tarsus, bound for the isles
of Javan or Gadire, complete. We beg leave therefore to address our.
With all her bravery on, and tackle trima, selves to them for a brief space, and we trust to be
Sails filled and streamers waving." received with the consideration due to a zealous apologist of their weaknesses and a devoted admi- Ladies, we beg of you, reform it altogether. rer of their charms. We place our hand upon our There is another sad error of the sex, in amny. heart and proceed.
ing themselves with over-stiffness and precision. You will not deny, most respected and adorable We are far from designing to hint that a lady can of created beings, that your little heads are always ever bestow too much care opon her toilet. Infull of devices for decorating your little persons. deed, the female dandy usually exbibits less care Else why is it that so much assiduity is bestowed than any one else. But we have seen ladies dressupon your dresses,—why do you look with so much ed up in a manner, which indicated the most usinterest for the monthly visitation of that anony- comfortable feeling, as if they could not move withmous beauty of the fashion-plates, who flourishes out deranging the set of their garments. Such as in eternal youth and eternal pink ribbon ? Why appearance is unbecoming and at present inexcusado you return from church on Sunday, so little ble. The great superiority of the female costume benefilled by the Rev. Dr. Blowemup's sermon of of the present day, over any that has preceded ih fifty-five minutes on the vanity of earthly distinc. is found in its ease and adaptation to the person. tions, that you can only talk of Miss " Timmin's No constraint is put upon the movements of the frightful visile,” or “that horrid new bonnet of wearer. No alarming head-dress is superimposed Miss Frump?" Nay, start not ! We impute this to make her resemble the caryatides of sculpture : not to you as a grievous fault. It is perhaps but a but the fullest comfort is afforded, at the same time prompting of your inward nature. That man, ugly that the natural beauties are set off to the best adas he is in his angular shape, without one of those vantage. Let woman recollect this, and be assucurves which we are taught to consider the ele- red that she never looks so well as when quite ufments of beauty, should seek the aid of externals, conscious of her own attractions. Lord Bacon may not be defensible on general principles. But 'tells us that the greatest beauty she can boast, is
that which a painting fails to express. Undoubt-1
Of all the lassies high or low,
In hall or cot or palace, "A sweet disorder in the dress,
The blithest lass of all I know [A happy kind of carelessness ;]
Is lovely lady Alice ! A lawn about the shoulders thrown
Her rudest ione is zephyr's own, Into a fine distraction;
She warlles like a linnet, An erring lace, which here and there
Her girdle, like Armida's zone,
Hath a thousand sweets within it!
Now you may call for a glass of wine,
Or nectar brewed in Heaven; But the greatest impropriety of female apparel, But Alice, that sweet mouth of thine, which is not perhaps so much a fault in the wear.
To my warm lips be given ! ers, as a defect in the mode itself,—is that it recog.
Now you may call for a dulcimer,
And wake its softest measure; nizes no difference of age. There are, in con
But Alice, warble to my ear, templation of fashion, no old women at all, for all
I ask no other pleasure. are robed in the same colors and the same styles. Is it not a mockery to see those, whose shadows
III. are lengthening in the evening of life, bedecked in
Now you may call for a sunny sky, the finery of sweet sixteen, to see nature giving
With not a cloud upon it; place to art in their appearance, to see the roses But give me the light of her blue eye, which have left their cheeks paraded in their bon
As it gleams beneath her bonnet ! nets, and the tresses that are glossy no longer, re
Aud you may gather lilies, sir, placed by the preparations of the perruquier ? Can
From Delhi to Gibraltar,
If I may gather those white hands the foot of time be stayed by frippery and decora
Beside the blessed altar! tion ? And yet do we not see every day ladies of uncertain ages exhibiting these painful contrasts, these
IV. absolute contradictions in external semblance ?
For oh! of lassies high or low, There is no greater error in the world than is
In hall or cot or palace, committed by those who associate ugliness with
The blithest lass of all I know age, and though the dictionaries may conjoin them,
Is lovely lady Alice. we maintain that not upfrequently good looks come
Her rudest tone is zephyr's own, with advancing years,—we mean the good looks of
She warbles like a linnet,
Her girdle, like Armida's zone a benignant and intellectual countenance. There
Hath a thousand sweets within it! is a great moral beauty in the appearance of one, whose garb denotes that she has yielded a willing submission to the fixed decrees of our being, who having seen the joyous delights of youth and passed the honorable period of mature age, is content to throw aside the ornaments which once she wore, THE THREE DAYS OF JULY. and, instead of masquerading in laces and velvets, to be seen in the simple and unostentatious appa- A very excellent and agreeable work has just beer issued rel that befits her years. To the eye of affection, from the Boston press, under the title of the “Rise and the gray bairs upon her brow are far more becom- Fall of Louis Philippe.” The author, Benjamin Perley ing than any artificialities that could be procured, Poore,'Esq., has long been favorably known to the public as and the pallor of her cheek more attractive than the European correspondent of the Boston Atlas, and during the sunniest glow of early loveliness. It is when several years' residence in Paris, spent in collecting from the we look upon such a character as this, that we re public archives materials for the Massachusetts Historical alize the truth of the touching lines of the poet, Society, has had unusual facilities for becoming intimate. prominent characters of the period, with which the sketch t'aidera," (aid thyself, and Heaven will aid thee.) opens, are indeed drawn with a masterly hand. which numbered Garnier Pages, Odilon Barros,
ly acquainted with the people and the Government. We “Les Amours sont toujours enfants
are indebted to him for sheets of his work, in advance of Et les Graces sont de tout age,"
its publication, from which we print the following graphic and feel in their full force the veneration and re- sketch of the Revolution of 1830, which placed Louis Egagard which old age ought always to inspire. lité upon the throne. The spirited portraitures of the
(Ed. Mess. Manuel Foy, and other popular orators, who exer
cised a great influence upon the people. They
had, amidst the smoke of battle-fields and the exiBeranger mingled together liberty and the plea- gencies of war, lost sight of oratory as of mos! sures of the table-crushed the Grand Almoner other severe studies of poetic leisure, and now while he praised the charms of Liselle, and launch- dwelt with raptore on free voices speaking freely. ed his thunder against the Jesuits, while he sang Speech, like the sword, is a formidable weapon to the youthful graces of Jeanneton. Combining when wielded by those who have courage, and the talents of Anacreon and Tyrtæus, he wore a march boldly on to the assault. double crown-of thorny laurels and of thornless One solitary priest was among this formidable roses—and in proportion as his grisettes were of opposition, for Charles X. was too much of a devoeasy access, was his political aim difficult to di- tee not to enlist the church on his side. But this vine.
All ages found something to admire in his exception, to use the words of Janin, was one who varied stanzas—the young girl as well as the old thought like Bossuet, and wrote like Jean Jacques soldier, the peasant as well as the revolutionist, Rousseau—one of those spirits which are natoraldrank eagerly from the cup of love and liberty ly rebellious because they are never duly appreciawhich he presented. His songs resounded from ted. A democrat after the manner of an old aposthe English channel to the Pyrenees, entering into tle, this organ between the gospel and the charall memories, and, by the force of noble and daring ter—this constitutional Luther—this energetic orathought, fixing upon all hearts a profound contempt tor, whose denunciation crushed all upon whom it for Charles X.
fell—to sum op in one word, this Father de la Guizot, Thiers, Mignet, Michelet, and a host of Mennais was one of the most powerful opponents of other writers, re-echoed the same sentiment in the Charles X. Calling to him all the griefs, all the University and the daily press, wielding against the humiliations, all the miseries, and all the opinions imprudent monarch the mighty influence of letters, of disordered humanity, he filled their wasted and which in France predominates over all others. weary souls with popular vengeance. Having found They altacked every thing that bore the name of it impossible to make himself comprehended as an legitimate royally, and likened the reigning branch expounder of his own creed, he applied that creed of the Bourbons to the English house of Stuart. to politics in a democratic sense, and became the Across the channel a monarch had been dethroned most powerful politician of the age. The Pope without politically convulsing society, and they fulminated his thunder against him, and he sent the boldly inquired if France could not do likewise ? bolts back with doubled force against Charles I., In olden times, when the great mass of the French Defender of the Holy Church. had little honor to win, or property to lose, history There was yet another branch of this bydrahad liule influence, but now that a division of for- headed opposition-the women, who have ever estunes had placed almost every office within the ercised in France a greater influence, both in polireach of the bourgeoiserie, they looked to it as a tics and literature, than they have in any other land practical lesson for examples. The historians be- since the days of Egyptian greatness. An Eng. came popular oracles with them, as they gained an lish writer says, that, although escluded from the influence over the Bonapartists and Republicans, throne and sceptre by the Salic law, they have freby depicting their triumphs in gorgeous colors. As quently ruled by a power stronger than all law; to the power of the newspaper press, so univer- and amidst a people vain, frivolous, chivalric, galsally exercised in the present century, it is only lant, and fond of pleasure, the women have taken necessary to say that its influence in France is up their place in life by the side of the men. More quadruple what it is in the United States. Direct- adroit in their conduct, quicker in their perceptions, ed throngh such channels, the attacks of the “ hom- than the less subtle sex, they have ruled absolutely mes de lettres” shook the very foundations of the in those times when adroitness of conduct and throne, and the result fully realized the fine pas quickness of perception have been the qualities sage which Bulwer puts into the mouth of his sa- most essential to pre-eminence. And the heroism gacious hero, Cardinal Richelieu :
of Joan d'Are, the courage of Charlotte Corday,
the barbarities committed by the fishwomen in the the pen is mightier than the sword.
first revolution, show that they are not wanting Behold the areb enchanter's wand! Itself nothing ! But catching sorcery from the master-band
when enterprise and daring are demanded. Who To paralyze the Cæsars, and to strike
that has read French history forgets the powerful The loud earth breathless !"
De Maintenon, the winning Pompadour, the intriguing De Longueville, the ingenious Scuderi
, Many of these master-minds were members of the epicurean Ninon, the agreeable Sévigné
, the a revolutionary society called " Aide-toi et le ciel much loved De Lorme, the heroic Roland, the in