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She telleth how, as she hath heard, How dwelleth there a demon weird In seeming of an owsel-bird,
Ceaselessly-ceaselessly,– And how that fiend must linger still, And work the master woe and ill, Till one shall dare with fearless will
Go down to haunted Ennerslie.
She telleth how-that ancient cione-
Shall go to haunted Ennerslie,
He hurried to the bank below,
The pale young Lord of Ennerslie.
THE THEORY OF THE TOILET.
She listened—but she nothing said;
She saw the light at Ennerslie.
Went sailing down to Ennerslie.
Back upon the sighing gale
As down she went to Ennerslie.
We are disposed to think that the world is more divided in opinion upon the subject of dress, than any other of the ordinary and pressing duties of life. Mankind agree with “remarkable unanimity" on the æsthetics of the kitchen, -as least as far as this, that we may lawfully eat the best and most savory dishes that gastronomic skill can set before us. With the single exception of that misguided and melancholy class, found in the Northern cities, under the title of Grahamites, who look upon man as altogether an herbivorous animal, we believe a good dinner is considered orthodox by all sects and parties and divisions of the human family. But with regard to dress, the most dissimilar notions prevail. There
are many, who view the wearing of gay apparel almost as an unpardonable offence. These persons frequently affect a most ridiculous simplicity, which demands a larger share of their time and attention than the worst foppery of the tailors. We have seen men who had a horror of buttons and who
As upward her blue eyes she cast,
thought of the last fashion as Mr. Stiggins thought
-Callida juventa of gin and water in the Fleet, with this difference,
Consule Planco, that the reverend gentleman indulged even in what he seemed rather in the condition of Colman's lodger, denounced as a " wanity," while they would as soon put on the shirt of Nessus as a good looking gar
-like iwo single gentlemen rolled into one." ment. There are others who seem to consider dress as one of the evils of life, about which it
But these reminiscences are carrying us off from were well to think as liule as possible, and in ac
our subject, to which we now return. cordance with this conviction they take no concern
We have set out with adverting to the variance for their bodies, as to “what they shall put on.
of opinion, which exists with regard to the subjeet They slouch through life, mere "things of shreds in general. Perhaps in the wide diversity of taste and patches," with an unfinished-business sort of among men, the classification might be pursued inair, as if they were miserable and didn't know ex- definitely. And yet it seems to us all would agree actly why. They are deterred by no economical that in dress, as in all things else, there is a cerconsiderations from decent appearance, but dress tain right path,—a juste milieu,-a truth lying in shabbily because they can't help it. Some of them,
the middle, which ought to be pursued. “Nothindeed, spend large sums in dress, but their garments ing," says the author of the Spectator, in one of are always mal-assortis and always out of place. those dicta which have become axiomatic, “ is They would go 10 a funeral in all the colors of the more laudable than an enquiry after truth," and it rainbow and to a wedding in “customary suits of
is with the view of arriving at this, as far as it may solemn black." There is still another class, on
be ascertained in the premises, that we propose 10 the other extreine, who, without the least modicum
enter upon an exposition of the THEORY OF THE
TOILET. of taste to restrain their extravagances, do the "ruffianly” style of dress. They are indeed “flow
There can be little doubt that originally dress ers of all hues,” faring in gaudy scarfs and illus was considered simply with reference to its utility, trated linen and rejoicing in all manner of startling
and that the only difference in its form and texture and violent contrasts. We need not pursue the
arose from the extremes of climate. Men songht description of this class farther. As “gents," or
only protection from the winter's cold and covering “ cits,” they are well known everywhere. A
from the summer's heat, and thus their garments
very different person is the true artiste. We mean not
differed with the seasons and with latitude. The the man, who makes his wardrobe the serious bu- skins of wild beasts sufficed the “gentleman from siness of his life, nor yet the recognized model of Norway," who dwelt always sub Jove frigido, the fashionable world; he is but a pretender, and while the population of the tropics walked about
, patent-leather can never raise him above his proper
like the statues of the heathen gods or the figusphere. But there are some gifted individuals, who rantes of the opera, in as little drapery as circumcome into the world with a nice sense of the har- stances would permit. Now in process of time, as the mony of colors and the proprieties of the toilet. arts progressed, that besetting sin, which from the who first evince a just perception of the true and days of Mother Eve down to the publication of the becoming in dress by the jackets of their boyhood,
last number of Les Modes de Paris has never and who ever afterwards remain faultless in ap- sire of admiration-began to be shown in the fash
ceased to inspire her children, the inordinate depearance.
One such there was who cast a lustre on our college days. Very fair in the eye of mem
ion and shape of clothing, and gradually colors ory, oh! worthy Dr. is thy pleasant face,
were studied and arranged with an eye to the picwith its delicate fringe of whisker and its benig-turesque in appearance. Without recurring to the nant smile! We well recollect the mingled feel. Reports of the Fashions B. C., it may be said that ings of envy and admiration with which we were
all nations soon learned to consult the graceful in wont to regard his exceeding propriety in every North sought to decorate their persons with gay
costume, and even the ruder barbarians of the movement and under all circumstances, whether attired in while cravat and lemon-colored kids for apparel. We are told upon dramatic authority,
that an evening, or diffused upon the grass, in gown and slippers, with a fragrant Havana, or preparing “A painted vest Prince Vortigern had on, the first of the vernal julaps, or making the lawn vocal with his midnight guitar! Once have we (although the subsequent stalement, we must conseen him since that haleyon period, but good living fess, perplexes os,) and a quiet conscience, while they had sweetened
Which from a naked Pict his grandsire woa." his temper, had spoiled his shape, and though the tailor, (nut our college snip, Lucas, whom we used the progress which taste has made, however, has to call “lucus a non lucendo,"") still displayed his been always subject to the modifications of climate, genius as of old, Adonis had grown into an alder- and we shall find that the garments of the present man, and being no longer what he was
day are loose and Aowing, or lightly drawn, just as
the wearer lives in a warm or cold region. With bitter weather, no matter whether it was sleeting or regard to our own country, it is spread over so large snowing, he was never seen in the street in any an extent of surface, that all possible styles of dress thing of the kind. One keen winter afternoon, an prevail. The hyperborean differs not more widely Englishman, who was making his way to his dinin outward semblance from the native of the burn- ner at the hotel as rapidly as he could, to his infiing desert than the good daughters of New Eng. nite amazement, met Monsieur de Z- with his land from those fair Senoritas, whom the Mexican surtout open, and looking the very emblem of the War has recently brought within the pale of citi- season. Boldly erect, however, with his hat on zenship. On the Lakes, and in the Far West, one side, he appeared to defy the elements, and there is constant demand for furs and fire wood, stalked towards him as magnanimously insouciant while in Georgia, a summer “uniform" is said to as if he had been clad in sables. The Englishbe worn of the lightest possible description. Mr. man, with his cloak thrown up to his very eyes, Wordsworth may not be considered good authority like a true Hidalgo, struck with the transparent on the subject, but he informs us of a “ Georgia appearance of the garde-du-corps, asked him, in a Major," who won the affections of his beauteous really compassionate tone, if he did not feel the Roth, who was very lightly clad indeed :
cold? •Froid, Monsieur,' said the haughty Car
list, un homme comme-il-faut n'a jamais froid !'” “There came a youth from Georgia's shore
Apropos of this, it is certain that of all nations, A military casque he wore, With splendid seathers drest ;
the French exert the most unlimited sway in the He brought them from the Cherokees;
world of fashion. From the French Capital as a The leathers nodded in the breeze,
centre, fashion radiates her light, and all the rest of And made a gallant crest."
mankind look to it for the divine ray. How impoBar Mr. Wordsworth goes on to compliment him tent, indeed, is any other nation in comparison !
Lord John Russell and his compeers may regulate as a fine fellow, and a real Ben Brace for fun :
tariffs and adjust treaties—may even prevent her "He was a lovely youth! I guess
Majesty from visiting a portion of her own dominThe panther in the wilderness
ions*—but can they change the cut of a coat ? Can Was half so fair as he ;
they subject Christendom to a prescribed mode with And when he chose to sport and play,
the authority of an army regulation ? No. This No dolphin ever was so gay Upon the tropic sea."
belongs alone to the Gauls. It is their province to
order, it is ours to obey. French taste has extended Notwithstanding the remarkable contrasts in dress, its supremacy everywhere. “ Following the sun and which we have pointed out among ourselves, the keeping company with the hours,” it has filled the hierarchy of fashion in its polent ministrations still earth with French cooks and French tailors. The preserves a sufficient uniformity in the large cities genius of fashion, as she siis enthroned with all to set os apart as one people. Though the ele. the immunities of sovereignty, in the Palais Royal, gante of Bostop derives his mode from Regent may indeed look around her and inquire “ Where Street and he of New Orleans from the Boulevards, is not my influence fell? still there is a marked similarity in their garments,
Quis jam locusand but little change is made on account of the
Quæ regio in terris nostri non plena laboris?" difference of latitude. Snow rarely falls on the dome of the St. Charles, while Washington Street No geographical divisions can stop the progress is blockaded with it four months in the year, and of her tenets, “ there are no longer Pyrenees” to Fet fashion prescribes nearly the same dress for the oppose the extension of her eropire, but it reaches two places. It seems to raise ils votaries above to the farther end of every continent: to Rio, to the fuctuations of the thermometer and to give Hong Kong, to the Southern Archipelago, to the them an equable temperament every where. We hundred gates of Thebes! It has been well said that recollect having read a good story, (il is told by French fashion has done more to preserve the peace Captain Jesse in his Life of Brummell.) of an old of Europe, during the last twenty-five years, than all garde-du-corps of Charles X., which illustrates other causes put together. What power would wage very forcibly this feeling, although the nil admirari war against the people, who can alone supply us with in his case proceeded from altogether a different new garments! Consider for a moment the effects cause. " He had only. his half-pay, seven hundred of an act of non-intercourse with France! Where and fifty francs a year, and his wardrobe, as might should we look for ribbons or gloves or comfits ? naturally be expected, was rather deficient on such an The recent sanguinary conflicts in Paris, growincome. Fortunately his affluent friends of the same ing out of the establishment of the Provisional Gopolitical opinions sometimes assisted him with a coat, vernment, while as friends of humanity they have and occasionally with a pair of inexpressibles, or
* The English papers, by the last steamer, inform us a dinner ; but never did their friendly donations ex- that the ministry had at last determined not to permit the tend to a cloak or a great-coat, and in the most Queen to visit Ireland, as she had intended.
filled us with painful regrets and sympathies, have | Indeed the hat may be regarded as the type of its not failed at the same time to excite very serious wearer. We believe that in a majority of cases apprehensions with regard to the face of the fash- we could define the individual with no other data ions. Shall we not soon be compelled to wear than his hat. Given the hat,-to find the profesblue blouses and l'habits des artisans and all sorts sion, the opinions and the habits of the man would of misshapen and uncomfortable vestments ? For be a problem capable, we think, of easy solution. deliverance from such perils, we look to Lamar- Suppose the persons unknown to pass by us, be tine, who is said to be the best dressed man of the hind a screen just high enough to conceal them, metropolis. Like all truly great Frenchmen, he but to allow a sight of their hats, we should say, understands the theory of the toilet. For no qual that under the low slouched hat, which moves aj. ity was the greatest of Frenchmen more remarka- ward with a jerk, there is a money-lender of the ble than his intuitive good taste in such matters. Mosaic brotherhood; the smart, pert, shining hat, A very entertaining work published in Paris in 1832, set jauntily on one side, is worn by a dandy clerk; under the title of “ Code Civil, Manuel Complet the humble, unresisting chapeau covers a clergyde la Politesse, du Ton, des Manières, de la bon. man of low church principles; the misshapen, carene Compagnie, &c.," relates a characteristic anec- less hat of roogh nap bespeaks the husband, while dote on this point. On the morning of Napoleon's beneath the highly respectable, well-brushed hat interview with Alexander of Russia on the Nie- there may be seen a “Calebs in search of a wife," men, Murat and General Dorsenne rode up together of whom we would be willing to swear, like Clasto take their places in his train ; Murat as usual dio in the play, “ If he he not in love with some tricked out with feathers and embroidery and stars— woman, there is no believing old signs: he brushes Dorsenne in that simple and elegant dress which his hat o'mornings: what should that bode ?" rendered him the model of the army. Napoleon We are persuaded that the fashionable hat of our greeted Dorsenne with a smile of singular cour time is the most ungraceful head-dress that was tesy, then turning abruptly round upon Murat, he ever devised. No hat of a past age, since gentle 1 said, “Go and put on your marshal's uniform; you men have discarded steel and iron from their war. have the air of Franconi's."
drobe, was so ill-adapted to its purposes or so litBut we are again wandering. And as we fear tle becoming to the person. Nor can we find so that what we have written so far is likely to be of bad an article anywhere at the present day. There little practical value, we shall proceed at once to is the turban, which is worn by unbelievers, which some useful hints with reference to certain partic. never gives one the head-ache-quite a model headular articles of dress. Here we beg to go along dress in comparison. The peaked hat of the Sparwith an esteemed old author, who discussed the ish contrabandista,-such as is worn by Fra Dia. same subject long ago :
volo in the third act,-is far more pictoresque. “ To begin firste with their hattes. Sometymes Even the queer looking thing which we see on the thei use them sharpe on the croune, pearking up head of Mephistopheles in the German etchings, like the spere or shafte of a steeple, standing a though somewhat unpleasantly associated with the quarter of a yarde above the croune of their heades; qualities of that unamiable individual, is a prettier some more, some lesse, as please the phantasies of attire. Recent events have brought into Fogue : their inconstant mindes. Othersome be flat and hat, which is capable of being managed in good broade in the croune, like the battlements of a hands very effectively, but which may be greatly house."
abused, -lhe Mexican sombrero. But the hat, the Now the hat is a very important matter. How most to our fancy, that we have ever seen, (and we much may depend upon it, no one can tell. It is have seen this only on paper,) is the one which the first object on which the eye rests in regarding the engravers represent as having contained withio the appearance of a stranger; and this, perhaps, iis ample dimensions “ as much wisdom as could may be the reason that we are so much swayed in live" in the head of Sir Francis Bacon. It is our prepossessions by its condition. If we meet a comely, sober, and comfortable. man, for instance, who wears a “shocking bad hat,” As we cannot hope to regulate the style, however, we at once set him down as a person of no con- and bring out such a hat as we should most desire, sideration, while a new castor never fails to impart it becomes us to make the best of the prevailing a certain pleasing air to the features which it sor- mode. And we shall take the liberty here of efmounts. It is worthy of remark, too, that if we fering some good hints to the reader as to the sewould describe a person, the description commen- lection of his hat. 1st. Get a new one every three ces invariably with the hat. The messenger of months or at least semi-annually. 2nd. Never be Hotspur, when he would announce the coming of in advance of the fashion, but be content to keep Prince Hal, glittering in golden coat, begins very up with it. 3rd. Never wear a white hat, unless naturally,
for plantation purposes, and then get a broad brin.
But above all, never put a black string around it. “I saw young Harry,-with his beaver on." Leave that to the stable boys. 4th. Do not rely too
much on your own whims, but select a good shop eagles been successful under any other neck-cloth. for your purchases and leave the fitting to the How far the cravate blanc influenced the fortunes dealer.
of his last battle, we leave to our readers to exReader, if you can give us four better maxims plain. than these, you may take-our hat.
Closely connected with the cravat is the shirt The next article in our synthesis of dress, (for collar; and a consideration of this will at once inwe are proceeding synthetically,) is the cravat, of volve us in the vexata quæstio, whether they should which a French writer has said “ L'art de mettre be worn standing. The inventive genius of Lord sa cravate est à l'homme du monde ce que l'art de Byron, as is well known, was exhibited in the indonner à diner est à l'homme d'état.” We should troduction of a new style of collar, which has ever say that it is not to the man of the world alone that since been called by his naine, and is of universal the art of tying the cravat is important, and that adoption among ourselves. We consider this style diplomacy has never suffered so much from bad as altogether the most natural and as affording a dinners as mankind from vicious and erroneous closer approximation than any other to the primitive views on this subject. When we consider that it freedom of the neck. Latterly, we have been callencircles the region of the epiglottis and deeply ed upon to adopt the standing style and made to pass affects the respiration of the wearer, it will be sub jugo, under the yoke, and we cannot help fanseen at once how important it is to have it rightly cying that to the eye of a foreigner, we must look, adjosted. We propose not to enter upon a histor- under this unaccustomed restraint, very much like ical treatise of the cravat, or we might easily de- the dandies that Biddy Fudge saw in Paris; monstrate that it had its origin in the effeminacy of the later days of Rome and was not introduced
Quite a new sort of creatures, unknown yet to scholars, among our immediate ancestors, until the early With heads, so immovably stuck in shirt collars,
That seats, like our music-stools, soon must be found them, part of the 17th century. The impetus given to to twirl when the creatures may wish to look round them.” the manufacture of English silks by the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, in 1685, brought cravats After all, the whole question is perhaps a physical into general use, and it may now be safely assumed one and resolves itself into this—whether the neck that the human neck will never regain its former to be enveloped is handsome or otherwise. Dr. freedom.
Holmes, in his poem of Urania, discusses it very The best material for the cravat is satin or satisfactorily, arriving at the conclusion that the silk of an uniform color. Glaring colors should be standing style is to be preferred. avoided and stripes and spots are most objectionable. It should be folded in the simplest manner “Our freeborn race, averse to every check, and tied in a common knot, so loosely as to allow Has tossed the yoke of Europe from its neck ; the neck the " largest liberty” that can be attain
From the green prairie, to the sea-girt town, ed.
The whole wide nation turns its collars down. With regard to the white cravat, for purposes of “The stately neck is manhood's manliest part; full dress, although sanctioned by general usage,
It takes the life-blood freshest from the heart; we have our doubts. Few persons are improved
With short, curled ringlets close around it spread, in appearance by it, and those of dark complex
How light and strong it lists the Grecian head!
Tbine, fair Erectheus of Minerva's wall ;ion are rendered positively frightful from the con
Or thine, young Athlete of the Louvre's hall, trast. Fair skins and blue eyes--genuine Saxon Smooth as the pillar flashing in the sun characteristics-consort very well with the while That filled the arena where thy wreaths were won,-cravat, and it always imparts to such persons an
Firm as the band that clasps the antlered spoil air of repose, that is quite taking. On the whole,
Strained in the winding anaconda's coil!
I spare the contrast: it were only kind we should regard it as an article that could not be
To be a little, nay, intensely blind : too cautiously adopted. There is said to be dan- Choose for yourself: I know it cuts your ear; ger in it, too. We have seen an ingenious hypo- I know the points will sometimes interfere; thesis, which assumed that the bronchial affections, I know that often, like the filial John, 80 prevalent among the clergy, resulted altogether
Whom sleep surprised with half his drapery on,
You show your features to the astonished town from their white cravats. There is some plausi
With one side standing and the other down ;bility at least in this conjecture. We have a friend,
But O my friend! my favorite fellow man! remarkable for his energy and his eloquence in the If nature made you on her modern plan, pulpit, who enjoys excellent health, which we have Sooner than wander with your windpipe bare,been in the habit of attributing to the fact that he
The fruit of Eden ripening in the air,never wears white cravats.
With that lean head-stalk, that protruding chin, It may be mentioned
Wear standing collars, were they made of lin! 100, as a curious coincidence, that on the fatal day
And have a neck-cloth- by the throat of Jove ! of Waterloo, Napoleon appeared for the first time Cut from the funnel of a rusty stove!" in the field in a white cravat. The sun of Austerlitz had seen him in black silk, and never had his Proceed we to the coat-the loga virilis-the