The Inkstand next claims attention. Bowl, but we soon perceive a difference. and the passage, tapering gradually, is at bristles on the top with small pines.

At first first view it seems a counterpart of the Sugar The rock, entire at the top, parts a little way down, the water wide enough to admit a small canoe.

It

Lone Rock stands in massive majesty mid-river, smiling with its summer chaplet of verdure upon the tawny flood that washes its feet. It is a broad oval in shape. As we approach we find that its sides are perforated with caverns, into the largest of which, the

Cave of the Dark Waters, or, as the Indians call it, the place of the Nah-huh-nah, we push our boat and rest awhile. From the other side, a few straggling gleams of light reach us through

Reflection Arch.-Nothing in this vicinity is more curious and wonderful than this rock, the outer walls and internal caverns of which show the abrading effects of different currents and eddies of water. Leaving this romantic spot, we head up stream along the south side of the

river, to

Grotto Rock. This is formed by an immense flat rock, and is supported by massive jambs of the same material. It is quite spacious, and is surmounted and surrounded by the luxuriant arborescence and verdure, which throw a graceful charm over all the scenery oft his region, and form a lovely setting for many a striking or quaint and curious picture.

Places of interest in the Lower Dells besides those already mentioned, are Falls of the Dam, Coldwater Spring, Earle's Cave, The Ovens, Hawk's Bill, Bald Hill, Cobble Stone Cove, and many others.

MINOR PLEASURE RESORTS.

The Peewit's Nest.-Two and a half miles west of Baraboo is located the romantic Skillet Creek Falls, better known, perhaps, as the "Peewit's Nest." Skillet Creek derives its name from a skillet-shaped rock which exists near the falls. The name of Peewit's Nest is attached to the place for the reason that large numbers of the species of bird commonly known as peewit, or peewee, build their nests among the rocks. A road leads within a few rods of the spot, which is a gorge but a few feet in width, but of great depth, comparatively, formed by Skillet Creek in passing through rock of different degrees of hardness. For a quarter of a mile above the "Nest" the water is still and deep, imperceptibly moving in a channel probably twenty-five feet wide. Then comes the dam, a structure half-natural, half-artificial, of twelve or fifteen feet span, but hanging thirty-five feet above the water below. Before the dam was built, the water, after collecting to a depth of twenty feet or more, ran in a trickling stream over the thin rock which formed the foundation for the artificial portion, erected in 1856 by John R. Shoards. No swelling flood will ever carry out this dam until rock shall rot and mortar mold, for it is literally "dovetailed" into the solid rock, extending fully fifteen feet higher than water has ever flowed. Immediately below the dam, the gorge opens, and on the north side is the Peewit's Nest proper. It consists of a perpendicular opening, shaped like a horseshoe, about fourteen feet the longest way, with its open side nine or ten feet across, the walls on the side opposite the stream being slightly overhanging. Across its throat, some twelve feet above the water, rests a sill, the remnant of the floor of a retired blacksmith's shop, commonly believed to have been of the bogus order, which was in full blast as early as 1845. William Brown, of Baraboo, at that time having a plow which needed mending, took it there for repairs, and only succeeded in landing it in the shop by letting it down with a rope from the overhanging cliff forty feet above. From this circumstance, the extent of the blacksmithing operations there may be guessed. Ill-natured persons surmised that the building was thus peculiarly located, being over a pool twenty-five feet deep, in order to scuttle any disagreeable-looking dies or molds in case of a sudden visit from "the powers that be," or, rather, that were. Below the "Nest," the stream speedily contracts to a width of about eight feet, and here, probably, is the only mill-wheel in the world whose axles rest in sockets of solid rock. The wheel is itself thirty-four feet in diameter, with a face of about four feet breadth, and bearing on a five-inch axle. This wheel once furnished power

for a small saw-mill, situated at the mouth of a gorge, and admirably contrived so that one man performed all the necessary labor for running it. Here, in early times, Mr. Shoards sawed about 200,000 feet of lumber per year. This wheel utilized 99 per cent of the force of the water, a greater portion than any other pattern then in existence; and the necessity for this economy in force is apparent on looking at the stream a little lower down, where it trickles no faster than a thirsty cow could drink. Yet this little stream has performed the wonderful work of cutting its way through the solid rock to a depth, in places, of seventy-five feet.

While upon the subject of counterfeits, it will be in place here to say something of another mysterious spot, said to be located in Section 33, town of Franklin. Ine arly times, it was known as "Bogus Camp," and is thus described by a gentleman who visited it over twenty-one years ago. "It is situated in a sly-looking pocket of natural formation in the rocks, overhung with high bluffs. In front is located a pretty grove of oaks and maples, and near by a refreshing spring leaps from the hillside. When I visited the place in 1858, in company with several gentlemen, we found an old trough, about thirty feet long, which conducted water into a log cabin, which was then partially decayed. Within the cabin was a dilapidated forge, and, it is said, an old pistol and other trinkets had been found there before. Near by was a powerful press, constructed of trees. A rock maple, eighteen inches in diameter, had been felled in front of a sturdy old oak. The maple, for a space of six feet opposite the oak, had been hewn down, and in the flat surface was sunk a groove two inches wide, three inches deep, and about six feet long, intended probably to receive a bar containing counterfeiting dies. In the standing oak had been mortised a hole, perhaps six inches square, and deep enough to receive the end of a lever; and near by we found the lever, a red elm, seven inches in diameter and seventeen feet long. Here, doubtless, fifty years ago, a gang of outlaws carried on their nefarious work uninterrupted."

The Upper and Lower Narrows.-Near Ableman Station, in the town of Excelsior, the Baraboo River has cut through the high range of bluffs, making a wild and ragged gorge nearly a mile in length. For most of the distance the revine is just wide enough to admit of the passage of the river, railroad and a wagon road. At some points the overtopping walls are 200 feet high. The place is known as the Upper Narrows of the Baraboo, and is an interesting spot, very convenient of access. It was at the south end of this gorge that Col. S. V. R. Ableman, recently deceased, finally decided to locate, in the belief that it was the only place a railroad could pass up the Baraboo Valley. And he was right. Here can be procured the finest specimens of the quartzite rock and the most beautiful conglomerates found in the State.

On Section 31 of the town of Excelsior is another gorge, known as the Narrows of Narrows Creek. In its structure and rock occurrences, it is similar to the Narrows of the Baraboo, the veined quartzite, however, being less developed than at the latter place.

The Lower Narrows has its romantic features as well, and must be seen to be appreciated. Geologically, it is an interesting locality. Prof. Daniels thus wrote of it twenty-two years ago: "The lower part of the Baraboo Valley is one of the most interesting portions of the State. In variety and picturesque beauty of scenery it cannot be surpassed in the West. The Potsdam Sandstone has here been violently disturbed, and in some cases changed from a soft, crumbling state into a very hard quartzite, usually of a red color, but often gray, or banded with red and white. Ranges of this quartzite extend often several miles, and form lofty hills with precipitous escarpments. The high bluffs of the Baraboo at the Narrows, at Spirit Lake and at Garrisonville, are mainly composed of quartzite. At the latter place, just back of Mrs. Garrison's house, the quartzite forms the top of the bluff, while at the base the sandstone seems only slightly changed, and furnishes a building material of excellent quality. On the opposite bank of the river the rock is unchanged, but a band of limestone occurs in it so pure and extensive as to be quarried and burnt for lime. This is located on land owned by Mr. Eiky, and is the only instance of the discovery of good lime in the Potsdam Sandstone of this State."

Parphrey's Glen.-Eastward from the mouth of the valley of Devil's Lake, Section 29, town of Merrimack, the southern face of the quartzite range continues high and bold. On Mr.

Fitzsimmons' place in Section 22, near what is known as Parphrey's Glen, a favorite resort for pleasure seekers, one of the highest points on the whole range of bluffs occurs. This point is in use by the United States Coast Survey as a signal station. Parphrey's Glen is the objective point for tourists and others seeking a view of nature's beauties. There was once a grist-mill at this place, and the oldest settlers whisper that previous to that time a distillery flourished there and corn was made up into juice; but of course no one will believe such a slander. The ruins of the pond and mill now form a romantic place of special interest. The dam was built across the mouth of a canyon which is walled in by sandstone, some fifty to seventy-five feet in height, worn out far back into the rock at the lower side, walls nearly touching at the top. After proceeding up this channel some thirty rods, you are surprised and pleased on turning a point to see a series of beautiful cascades. Very fine ferns and mosses abound here in profusion. After you have taken your picnic lunch, you can drive two miles farther and visit

This beautiful dell is the

Dorward's Gorge, in the town of Caledonia, Columbia County. ancient bed of a small lake, no doubt. The different stages of water are marked by the erosions in the rock and the terraces washed up at the several boundaries. At one point, the creek has worn a bed through solid rock, and the south shore is a perpendicular wall, most beautifully covered with mosses, kept continually moist with the drip from a spring at the top of the bluff. It is called "Weeping Rock."

Mirror Lake.-Situated between the Dells and Devil's Lake, as connecting links, as resting-points on the way, are several beautiful scenes. They are located upon Dell Creek, a small river emptying into the Wisconsin at the ruins of Newport. The water is very pure, consequently shadow pictures are one of the principal features of this pretty locality. Mirror Lake isthe name given to about three miles of Dell Creek, along whose shores are glimpses of a narrow canyon with its moss-covered walls from seventy-five to one hundred feet in height; the beautiful fern-clad Dell, with its sparkling spring brook, and shady seats; the mossy grotto to whose ragged out-lines cling the exquisitely tendriled vine, and ever-varying shaded lichen; the overhanging crag, bare of all foliage, as if fearing to risk its life at such a dizzy height. On the left as you go up the creek you find

The Devil's Postoffice, situated at the outlet of a small ravine; the shelving letter-boxes, deliveries, etc., are all there. Imagine the Postmaster and call for your mail. Next, on the same side, is

stone.

Echo Rock, a high promontory at a bend in the stream, composed of a light yellow sandA very distinct echo is heard from the top.

The Bee-Hive is on the left. It resembles an old-fashioned bee-hive, the base about half way to the top of the bluff, the apex reaching to the top. At the terminus of the creek is situated

Fern Dell.-This is one of the neatest little places in this whole region. Is a valley hemmed in by overhanging rocks, about seventy feet high, a mass of verdure clinging to their sides.

Congress Hall.-This is on the east of the village of Delton, a short distance from Mirror Lake. Is evidently an old bed of Dell Creek. At ordinary times, but little water is found-in the shape of a small rivulet formed by springs, which winds its way through. The Hall is an eroded canyon, in the soft yellow sand-rock, wildly broken and distorted in its windings. Some places where the rock is harder, the passage is quite narrow, and then widens into large, spacious rooms. These views as they develop are quite pleasing and somewhat different from all others in this section. It is well worth a visit. The Dell Creek is noted for its excellent fishingmostly pickerel and black bass.

It is confidently believed that no county in the State, or any section of equal size in the State, can successfully compete, in point of variety of scenery, with "Old Sauk" as a pleasure And there is certainly no part of Wisconsin that approaches it as a vast schoolroom for the study of nature's wonders.

resort.

CHAPTER VI.

THE SAUK COUNTY PRESS-SOME OF SAUK COUNTY'S ILLUSTRIOUS DEAD-FIRST AND LAST CENSUS IN SAUK COUNTY-THE OLD SETTLERS' SOCIETY-THE COUNTY POOR-ORNITHOLOGY.

\ THE SAUK COUNTY PRESS.

BARABOO.

Thirty years ago, in the summer of 1850, Cyrus H. McLaughlin,* a practical printer, found himself in Baraboo with a few cases of types and an ancient hand-press. It is believed that Mr. McLaughlin came from Madison, where he had been engaged in the mechanical department of one of the Capital papers. He was soon joined by another journeyman typo, one H. A. McFadden, who, it is said, hailed from Monroe, Wis. The vacant loft of Morehead's tin and hardware store was secured for an office, and, on the 25th of June, 1850, the first number of the Sauk County Standard was issued therefrom. Politically, the Standard advocated the principles of the Whig party, but the convictions of its editors soon changed, whether from a righteous regard for "political purity," or from causes of self-interest, will probably never be known. The change of front occurred in February, 1851, and, about the same time, Mr. McFadden retired, his interest having been purchased by M. C. Waite. In May of the same year, Duncan C. Nevin, of Albany, N. Y., succeeded Mr. Waite, and, at the close of the first volume of the Standard, George R. Clarke, now of Chicago, and John H. Wagoner, became the proprietors. This partnership lasted until the 10th of March, 1852, when Mr. Wagoner sold out to R. H. Davis. N. V. Chandler then became the virtual publisher of the paper, he agreeing to perform the mechanical duties of the office for a stipulated sum per week, which must have been a great relief to Messrs. Clarke & Davis, for neither of them knew anything of the "art preservative of all arts." When Mr. Chandler took charge of the office, the position of "devil " was being filled by H. A. Perkins;§ John W. Blake was "first imp." Mr. Chandler held the position of publisher until September, 1852, when David S. Vittum purchased Clarke's interest. On the 22d of December, Cyrus H. McLaughlin, one of the founders of the Standard, and the undisputed Nestor of journalism in Sauk County, bought into the concern, becoming the partner of Mr. Vittum, and, at the close of the Standard's third volume (June 8, 1853), his name appeared as sole owner. In the early part of August following, R. C. Gould became the associate of Mr. McLaughlin, and, on the 30th of August, 1854, they both retired in favor of Andrew C. Holt, who conducted the paper alone until May 30, 1855, when Victor E. Peck and James I. Dennis became the publishers and proprietors. On the 6th of August following, the more appropriate title of Democrat was substituted for Standard, and, in December, the name of J. W. Phelps appeared at the editorial masthead, indicating that individual as the political editor. In March, 1856, J. H. Wells, the warm supporter of " Barstow and the balance," and a reputed member of that historic and politically-renowned band known as the "Forty Thieves." succeeded to the interest of Mr. Dennis in the Democrat, and took the editorial seat of Mr. Phelps. The paper was then enlarged from twenty-four columns, its original size, to twentyeight columns. But circumstances over which the editor had no control caused the suspension of this much-managed paper in November, 1856.

The Baraboo Republic.-In December, 1851, Silas Noyes, brother of Col. D. K. Noyes, of Baraboo, established a Whig paper in Portage called the Northern Republic, which he conducted with fair success, considering the tribulations which beset the party whose cause it championed. Both the party and the paper finally went down together, and the material of the latter was removed to Baraboo, where, in January, 1855, the proprietor having associated with him his

*Now a resident of Denver, Colo.

Killed by the cars a few years ago, near Mauston.
Now of Reedsburg.

Now of Sioux City (Iowa) Journal.
Now of Reedsburg Free Press.

brother D. K., the Baraboo Republic was established, with the latter as political writer, and the former as miscellaneous editor. It was the exceptional good fortune of the Republic to have been born and reared in the sunlight of Republicanism, and it seems to have been received with as great favor locally as was the party whose principles it chose to expound, though there were, at first, occasional omissions in its weekly issue which could not be avoided, however great the disappointment to its patrons and well-wishers. The first change in the management occurred October 13, 1855, when Silas Noyes withdrew, and his name as "miscellaneous editor "lifted from the form." In the following number (October 20), Henry A. Perkins and John Blake appear as the publishers, "office in the old court house; and in January, 1856, D. K. Noyes, the editor, having been chosen to represent his district in the Assembly, N. W. Wheeler made his bow to the public as the temporary perpetrator of editorial pabulum and local jokes.

was

In September following, Ansel L. Kellogg* became associated with Mr. Noyes as contributing editor, and, in October, the names of Mr. Kellogg and H. A. Perkins appear as publishers, with the former as editor-in-chief. Mr. Noyes, after nearly two years of editorial labor, bade adieu to his friends and supporters in the following words:

"We have labored nearly two years, as far as we have been able, to build up a good Republican paper in Sauk County. We have never claimed to be the gifted, the eloquent, the statesman; we claim to be a patriotic pupil, willing to learn the politics and the history of our country. We can say to the friends of the Republic that we leave it in a prosperous condition, our hopes have been fully realized, the Republic is a living paper, and we leave it content."

The new proprietors thus saluted the public: "Having been thus favorably introduced to the readers of the Republic, we are, of course, expected to make our bow and deliver a set speech. The former we do with a diffident pleasure; against the latter, however, we shall have to protest, being unable, in these exciting times,† to offer anything better than an impromptu expression of our hope to serve the right and to meet the approval of our readers in so doing. We contemplate many improvements, not the least of which is the moving of our quarters to Mr. Taylor's bank building, south of the new court house."

The editor's promise of many new improvements was carried out at once, the leading feature being a complete new dress of type. The Republic soon obtained a high rank as a leading party organ. The copartnership between Messrs. Kellogg & Perkins was dissolved January 5, 1860, and on the 4th of June, 1862, Mr. Kellogg's connection with the paper ceased, and John W. Blake and C. E. Stuart became the proprietors. In August, 1863. Mr. Stuart withdrew, leaving Mr. Blake sole owner, in which capacity he continued until the 12th of April, 1865. In the meantime (August, 1864), the subscription price of the paper, owing to the advance in the price of paper, etc., was increased from $1.50 to $2 per annum. William Hill was the successor of Mr. Blake. Mr. Hill was fresh from Southern battlefields, and, being an old and experienced journalist, the Republic, under his management, lost nothing in loyalty or business prestige. In August, 1866, the proprietor dispensed with the "patent outside" system, which, even then, had become chronic in interior journalism. The appearance of the paper was further improved by providing it with a new dress of type. April 15, 1868, the form of the Republic was changed by the addition of a column to each page, the columns also being made narrower.

On the 28th of August, 1872, Mr. Hill penned his valedictory, announcing his withdrawal from the proprietorship of the paper in favor of Joseph I. Weirich. He said: He said: "However

Now a resident of New York City. Mr. Kellogg was the originator of the auxiliary plan of printing. When the President issued his call for three-years volunteers to sustain the Union, Joseph I. Weirich, then the principal help in the Republic's composing-room, answered to the call, and enlisted in the Sixth Regiment. This event so disorganized the office work of the Republic for the week, that a full paper could not be issued on the usual plan. Mr. Kellogg accordingly sent to the Madison State Journal for a half-sheet printed on both sides with war news, to supplement a home-printed half-sheet containing local and editorial matter. While mailing the edition, he conceived of the "patent" side. The next issue was substantially on the plan now in so general use, and the Republic was thus conducted by Mr. Kellogg so long as he remained owner of it. He subsequently established himself in the "patent inside" business in Chicago, and by it acquired a large fortune.

+ Upon the eve of a Presidential election-Fremont and Buchanan.

Now Cashier of a bank at Neodesha, Kan.