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lower grade are civil, obliging, and polite, I doffing their hats constantly as one passes through the streets. There is a high-bred air and demeanour in the higher classes, which, added to their courteous, pleasant manners, makes their society very agreeable.
The University museums are admirably arranged, especially the natural history and anatomical departments. The best pictures had been sent to the exhibition at Stockholm. The only good painting left was executed by the King, who is a clever artist, and a patron of the fine arts generally, as well as a poet. Ignorance of the language leads to frequent miitaies, for instance, I asked the waiter to bring me a foot-bath at night, and when the hoar arrived he appeared with a bottle of sodawater.'
On Friday, August 13tb, we went by railway toEdwold, on Lake Mot:sen, and thence by itramer to Lillehammer, where we slept. On the following morning a very ample breakfast was provided, consisting of salmon steak, mutton chops, eggs, several kinds of bread, excellent butter, rich cream and strawberries, tea and coffee. We hired a carriage for four, with a pair of horses, and occasionally three, to convey us to our destination. The stations are generally way-side inns, about nine miles apart; at them we procure fresh horses. There are no public conveyances in this country; travellers are taken from one place to another in a vehicle called a cariole. The seat is, in shape, like the bowl of a salad-spoon. Imagine yourself placed on a cushion, with your legs stretched out at fnll length towards the splash-board, and covered with a leathern apron, under which aspect you're supposed to be comfortably equipped for your journey. The boy who brings back the horses sits behind, where there is just sufficient space to strap on an ordinary-sized portmanteau. This is the arrangement, whether for ladies or gentlemen. Moreover, you have to drive yourself—no very objectionable occupation, as the horses are sure-footed, and go at a spanking pace—sometimes seventy miles in ten hours. The sleeping arrangements at the stations are not agreeable, as it is impossible to get a room to one's self; and it not unfrequently happens that three or four strangers find themselves in the same apartment. The bedding consists ntnally of dried hay, two sheets, an eider-down Quit, and large pillow, like those used by the Germans. These are some of the sweets of travel; and after having been all day in the opt- air, taking, perhaps, a good deal of exercise, we did not trouble our heads about the absence of English comforts. The King, when coming from Dronthjem after his coronation, slept at two of these stations.
In many parts the scenery is most romantic. We saw several magnificent waterfalls; two days snowy mountain tops were in sight. We drove for miles along the banks of a majestic river, called the Nid, at the mouth of which lies Dronthjem. This was formerly the capital of Norway, until its union with Denmark. The
streets are wide and regular, but they look deserted, and the city lacks life, although it is reputed a good place for business. The palace is the largest wooden structure in existence; the houses are built of the same material, usually painted white, which gives the place so fresh and modern an aspect as almost to belie its antiquity. There is a cathedral, which seven or eight hundred years ago had few rivals; but it is a sort of conglomeration of architecture, from the numerous repairs it has undergone. It is here that the kings are crowned. Churches are numerous: there is a national bank, and a savings-bank attached to the post-office. There are some magnificent waterfalls and interesting copper-mines about four miles out, which all strangers should visit.
On leaving Dronthjem we went to Molde, which was only a journey of five hours by sea. The opposite coast is a lofty range of snowcapped mountains, jagged here and there with a rocky boulder almost touching the clouds, and on which even snow cannot linger. The windings of the Fjord to its termination in the direction of the valley of Romsdale cannot be surpassed for beauty throughout Norway, for the eye rests continually on sombre, craggy mountains, lofty precipices, and every variety of scenery that helps to make an attractive picture.
A fjord is not a tiny inlet into the heart of the mountains, as one is wont to suppose, for some of them run up at least fifteen or twenty miles, such as the Hardanger and the Soigne. The outline of the mountains, forming the narrow gorge of the Romsdale, in one particular spot is so irregular and jagged that human ingenuity has discovered in it a striking resemblance to a marriage party at the altar. Perhaps my imaginative powers were at fault, for I must confess it required some of a very prolific order to conjure up the dramatis per sows out of the granitic group before me. At last I could distinctly see the priest, the bride, and what looked a gigantic beadle—for, oh, forbid it ye powers 1 that such a Daniel Lambert should ever be the "happy man!" The bridal crown, which Miss Bremer tells us is an indispensable ornament on these occasions, was also well defined. Whilst contemplating this scene of still-life happiness, I was aroused from my reverie by a rumbling noise overhead and behind me, louder than any thunder I ever heard. I was standing then immediately under the peak called the Romsdale Horn, which rises 4,000 feet above the bed of the river that washes the gorge. I looked high and low, about, and around, but could perceive no indications whatever to account forthe sound, which continued for half a minute; by-and-by I saw a cloud of dust issuing from an immense fissure midway up the Horn—it darkened the heavens in its ascent. Some friends whojoined us shortly after heard the noise at a distance of four miles; they believed it to be the dislodgment of immense masses of rock in the interior of the Horn, but there were no outward visible signs, except the dust. I took a solitary walk of fourteen miles in the valley of Aak, and then returned to a five o'clock dinner at the hotel, where I was gratified by the sight of some splendid sketches made by a brother of Lord ——, who has found many fine subjects for his pencil in scenes so full of beauty as those we have lately passed through.
In the passage from Molde to Bergen, one skims past a myriad little islets; the way in which the steamers dart in and out of the narrow passages between them looks both mysterious and difficult. The islands, in general, are masses of gneiss, mica, schist, or granite, frequently trap-rock, entirely void of vegetation.
The distance from Dronthjem to Bergen is upwards of 400 miles of coast line, but it is extremely interesting and picturesque, combining either the placid lake or rapid river, from port to port. The city is a large, busy place; the leading 'street is called the Strand-gaden, and runs parallel with the harbour for half a mile. As we passed up it, the people stood gazing at us open-mouthed, perhaps regarding us as objects of curiosity to be caught up for their museum. After two days' sojourn here, the steamer took us up the Soigne Fjord, which occupied two days more. The farthest extremity of the Fjord is called Gutvangen, where we remained for the night, having three beds in one room.
The fosses (as the waterfalls are called) are here 60th numerous and marvellous, and the immense volume of water one sees here and there and everywhere would seem to indicate the miraculous wand of the prophet on every mountain top. Three of the fosses opposite Gutvangen were 2,000 in height each, and there were others equally grand, and of much greater volume. The road from this latter place to Vossvangen runs through valleys and gorges of excessive interest and loveliness, rendered especially beautiful by two lakes, each seven miles in length. Towering high above on the mountain tops, were extensive fields of snow and glacier ice. Then again came cultivated patches of land, slopes covered with trees, either of pine or birch, masses of grey, sombre granite, and anon glimpses of lake-like scenery, until at length we reach Eide, a station at the extremity of the Hardanger Fjord. In the vicinity of the village of Odde is the largest glacier in the world, called the Folge Fond. The steamers that ply up and down these fjords have every comfort and accommodation that can be desired, and the traveller never ceases to admire the picturesque beauty of these deep bays, or fjords, which give such a peculiar charm and character to the regions round about.
The country is celebrated for its beeches, and in some places, where the waves have washed away the shore to a steep cliff, these trees hang their leafy foliage over its summit, or perhaps overshadow a huge mass of moss-grown stone, giving an appearance both pleasing and grateful.
"Of Stockholm?" This city is "beautiful for situation," and is everywhere so intersected by water as to produce a charming effect: one
I may, indeed, call it a sea-girt isle, so numerous ! and extensive are the lakes which surround it. There are many places in the suburbs to which the citizens resort for recreation, where they are entertained with the finest Swedish music, and can dine at a moderate charge, besides being supplied with punch and other less intoxicating beverages. Ulricksdal is the name of the King's summer residence, and whether approached by land or water the situation is equally charming. In the cathedral of Stockholm (locally known as the Riddarholms Kyrkaw) are a number of equestrian figures, rouud the walls, in complete suits of armour. Gustavus Vasa is buried here, in one of the sidechapels; and on the opposite side is the tomb of Charles XII., and the bullet which terminated the life of this hero at the siege of Frederickshall., Other Swedish kings are interred in this church, amongst them Bernadotte, or Charles XIV. The shields of the Knights of the Ordt- of the Seraphim are hung round the choir ; especially I noticed those of Prince Albert, the King of the Belgians, and Napoleon I. There were also various war trophies, and an extraordinary collection of kettledrums; these were all fortunately preserved when the church was struck by lightning in 1835.
The finest place on the Malar Lake is a palace called Stokloster, belonging to Count Brahe, a descendant of the great astronomer, Tycho Brahe. At one time it was the property of Field-Marshal Papa Wrangel (as the Berliners call him), the veteran of the Prussian army. The palace is a quadrangular building, with four lofty octagonal towers, at each coiner, domeshaped, and slated. It is embowered amidst luxuriant old trees, and is a most interesting, venerable-looking structure. The grounds and gardens are extensive; through the latter is a splendid avenue of elms. The palace itself may be looked upon as a perfect "art-treasure," so numerous and varied are its contents. The amount of legendary lore to be picked up here isnot one of its least attractions. Besides weapons, and ornaments of all kinds (amongst others a beautifully-embossed dagger of Benevenato Cellines), there are innumerable cabinets filled with presents from Royal personages to the Brahe family. The paintings exhibit rather a low standard of art, a remark that may, I think, apply to pictures generally throughout Sweden. The walls of the corridors are covered with portraits in fresco; they are the veriest caricatures imaginable, not excepting that of Tycho Brahe himself, in the sleeping apartment formerly occupied by Marshal Wrangel. The likeness of Charles XII., Bernadotte, and one of George IV. when Prince Regent, are better specimens of art, as well as a picture of Ebbe, the mistress of Gustavus Vasa. The tapestry was faded and time-worn, but if that had seen its best days, there were a hundred other objects of interest to engage the attention in the exquisite cabinets, antique furniture, and curiosities of very description; we lingered here for four ours, and even then departed unwillingly. My
sot halting-place was Falkoping, where, if he please, the traveller may find a ready-made dinner, of which he may partake what he likes, and as much, from a well-spread hoard, for the sum of Is. 3d.!—a meal for which he would hare to pay, at least, 5s. at any of our "great" railway hotels in England.
About" Helsingborg?" The King of Sweden's brother has no residence in the environs. If not in artist, like his brother, the Royal Prince it a writer of some celebrity, and has made valuable contributions in an historical form to the literature of his country; he has also translated "The Cid" into the Swedish language. Soon after our arrival, the King of Denmark pawed the hotel en route to a visit to Prince Oscar. The King of Sweden we had seen some days previously, returning from a shooting excursion; the Royal brothers are very popular tita their well-beloved subjects. Our steamer w the "Horatio;" the " Ophelia " was floating about in the harbour at Elsinore, where I lauded to visit Hamlet's grave: albeit, some say that here Hamlet never dwelt, fie that as it may, the whole scene of that magnificent production of Shakspeare's is laid in Elsinore, which lends enchantment to the place, no less than to the Castle of Kronsberg.
•' Of Copenhagen i" However attractive this olace may be, it has its "ups and downs," in common with many Swedish towns, in the obliquities of surface which are so terribly trying to the determined pedestrian. There is scarcely yard of pavement to be seen. In Copenhagen stones find a "local habitation" everywhere, and the consequence is that one gets into a state of pitiable ill-temper, and consigns one's bootmaker, hosier, and the paviour alike to the tender mercies of Pluto. The general aspect of the city is agreeable; there is a life and activity about it that makes it pleasant to look upon. The houses are lofty, and chiefly built of stone, the shops spacious, and some of the streets have in imposing appearance. Many of the leading thoroughfares have tramways of iron, on which omnibuses ply continually, and look like wooden hows in motion; they go along quite smoothly, ad at a sufficient speed for all business purposes. The Danes are very fond of gaiety and amusement, and no city in the world caters so well i« its pleasure-loving people. There is a circus, "ponasiam, concert-halls, cafe's chantants, dancing saloons, and last, but chiefest and best, gardens of surpassing beauty, where almost "ery evening hundreds of the most respectable alliens and their families meet to enjoy the entertainment provided for them. One of the attractions in these Tivoli Gardens is the "Montagne Russe," which people traverse only by the momentum acquired at first starting. This amusement seems highly diverting to the people, perhaps because there is a slightly sensational element in it, which suits their excitable
temperament. Let it not, however, be surmised that it's all play and no work; far otherwise. The Danes are an intelligent race, and are provided with every facility for mental culture in the schools, libraries, museums of art and antiquities, with which their city abounds.
The Thorwaldsen Museum was bequeathed to the public by tbe genius whose name it bears: he died suddenly in the theatre in 1844, aged seventy-four. His remains lie in a sarcophagus in the court-yard: marble slabs cover the surface, and are placed edgewise, to form a receptacle for the soil which is planted with ivy; the leaves seem clustered together in "rank luxuriance," and are a more fitting emblem of the undying genius of this great man of letters than "storied urn or animated bust" could ever convey. The only inscription recorded is the name, date of birth, and death—quite touching in its simplicity.
There are upwards of two hundred of the artist's works in the museum, of which wordpainting could give you but a very remote idea for all that they suggest of beauty in execution, and finish of detail, besides the solemnity of the subjects, many of which are from Scripture history.
The cathedral, called the Fruekirke (church of our Lady), is chiefly interesting from the number of Thorwaldsen's best works. Behind the altar is a colossal marble statue of our Saviour. The twelve apostles are arranged along the nave, Bix on either side; they are the most exquisite sculptures, inspiring one with feelings of awe and reverence, not unmixed with wonder, at the mind which could conceive and the hand which could execute such marvellous creations. In the sacristy is a basrelief, representing our Lord administering the Holy Sacrament to the " Twelve," all of whom are kneeling, except James and Judas.
The palace of Fredericksborg is about two and a-half miles from the city ; it is prominently situated on a hill, and is surrounded with gardens like those of St. Cloud, with magnificent old trees, lakes, romantic walks, bridges, and sylvan temples. There is also the palace of Christianborg, which has over the portico two bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen's (representing "Jupiter and Nemesis," "Minerva and Prometheus"). Of all the classical subjects, the "Triumphal March of Alexander into Babylon" was that which pleased me most for artistic skill. This is in a large apartment of the Riddersal (Knight's Hall).»
The "Royal Museum of Northern Antiquities" occupies six or seven rooms, and has no rival in the world. In it is described chronologically the different stages of civilization,
* The photographs (published by Messrs. Marion, Son, and Co., Soho-square) of many of the finest subjects of Thorwaldsen should be seen by all true lovers of the beautiful in art.
from the remote periods of flint and stone up to the present era of progress and development. It has a glorious collection of weapons of all kinds, and ornaments of quaint device and workmanship, too numerous to be mentioned here. The librarian was my cicerone in going over the University Museum, which contains magnificent salons; one of these is elaborately decorated. The roof is vaulted, and painted blue, with white and gold divisions. The walls have exquisite carvings of fruit, flowers, birds, fish, and cereals. To my mind, the greatest curiosity the library contained was a book bound in antique fashion, in wooden black boards. The leaves were of vellum, and inscribed throughout with Runic characters, about the sixth of an inch long. It is the only book of its kind in existence. There were also Ice
landic MSS. of great value, ant! many curious records, with brilliantly-illuminated characters, said to be as early as the ninth century. The first newspaper ever published in Copenhagen is also to be seen in its very small octavo infancy, until it reached man's estate in the form we now get it.
Hamburg is the next place to be visited, and from thence to the city with palaces, but without a king, where formerly, when his" Uri tannic and Hanoverian Majesty was away at Kensington, they used to stick his picture in an arm-chair, under a canopy, at Herrenhausen. Chamberlains had to stand by the side, and halberdiers mount guard over the effigy, which was saluted by the courtiers with genuflexions. Poor armchair at Herrenhausen! your occupation is quite gone now! M. C.
OUR PARIS CORRESPONDENT.
My Dear C
The plan for the reorganization of the French army has put our rural population in great commotion. It has been stuck upon the "Mairies" of every village, as if our Imperial master wished to try the ground before venturing too far, and our peasantry are in great alarm; for remark, in spite of all that our journalists have to sayion the subject, tbepeople —those who cannot pay a substitute—hate the conscription, and employ every means to escape the honour of "mourire pour la patrie." It seems this new plan frustrates all combinations to that effect for all the valid; if a man buys a " remplacant" in one way, he can be taken in another, until the age of fifty—so that, no matter how much a poor fellow dislikes leaving his wife and children for the field of battle, he must go, if his Sovereign takes a fancy to ins neighbour's domains. This Prussian system may be good for the Prussians, but whatever does Napoleon want to introduce foreign systems for? Have our soldiers proved themselves so inferior of late years that they require a new reorganization? And if he has been baulked by M. de Bismarck in his designs on the Rhenish provinces, do we want a rain of soldiers to revenge us? I cannot believe that the Corps Legislatif will dare to accept such an unpopular measure. Many here are persuaded that we shall go to war with Prussia as soon as the Exhibition is over.
It was reported that the Empress intended to pass Christmas in Rome. The august lady sadly wants to play a part in the world's affairs. I suppose she imagines that her presence would reassure the Pope: I should think that she would be rather misplaced beside the fallen Sovereigns that surround the Holy Father and
it would be far wiser to stop at home, though it is affirmed that the journey is only postponed. The season at Compiegne was not so brilliant as it generally is; the excessive wet weather prevented all out-door pleasure, and their Majesties' guests were debarred, almost entirely, the excitement of the hunt. The actors of the "Comedie Fraucaise " played before the Court the last night, when Lord Cowley was noticed to occupy a seat at a short distance behind the Empress. Her Majesty wore a tulle dress, spangled with gold, a red sash, black lace "peplum," and diamond head-dress, and looked, as usual, charming.
Apropos of the Pope, a short while ago the priests in the country received orders from their different bishops to do a neiwaine (offering of prayers during nine days) in all the Roman churches for the Pope to abandon the temporal power, and the parishioners appear to relish the thing uncommonly—even where a little while ago such a proposition would have been repulsed with indignation. This makes one think that the temporal power is losing ground amongst the most faithful. Some say that the Pope intends to go to America. Cod speed him I
The Parisians complain sadly at the stagnancy of affairs. Commerce is dreadful; noI thing doing in the way of business; and yet we are now in the good season, as all our usual | winter gaiety has begun again—the balls at j the opera, at the Hotel de Ville, and at pri| vate houses, without counting the gambling parties (if that can be considered a gaiety), where, they say, immense quantities of money are lost and won, and that in private houses; 'tis, true, mostly in the "demi-monde," for that is the prevailing occupation amongst the frail Mr in that class of society.
At for the theatres, there is nothing much to be recorded. I have already mentioned all the piece* ef note, which continue to attract. Virion's last comedy, "Maison neuve," takes, in spite of its half success at the first representation, and all Sardon's enemies have had to say on it; and there has been attack on attack in tbe papers, and replies on the part of the author, for Sardon's reputation is a great thom in the tide of bis compeers.
TheLyrique Theatre has just brought out •gain " Der Freischutz," which is a great treat. By-tht-bye, it seems that the director of Her Majtst/i Theatre in London is on the point of takinit from us our charming Nilsson, the liighu'iijrile of the Lyrique Theatre. Report at< lint she has signed an engagement for two Jtm with that person, for which we are very «rrr. However, you will not have her before April.
lour famous Stodare has not succeeded: it Hems that his tricks are old ones, known long W by the Parisians—if you except two or tbree passable ones—so he is reduced to an engagement in a "cafe' chantant."
We have had an exhibition of cheeses and fit fowls in the Palais de l'Industrie. Tbe gnyert has carried off the prize. The fitness of the fowls has excited great disgust amongst the delicate, who pretend that lean meat ii tbe best; fat things are generally little appreciated by the Parisians, without you except fat ladies, for whom the French, in general, bare a great predilection.
Monsieur Louis Veuillot's attack on all the French journalists, in his "Odeurs de Paris," has kept us in a general state of alarm, not knowing whether he would not have to terminate the quarrel by a duel with each, that node being the fashion now to re-establish peace amongst our public writers; but it seems 'hat, after a few gracious epithets scattered here wd there, their wrath is subsided. Several wiwers were very amusing, and I should think made the ultra-Catholic gentleman think that '"«would have done as well had he been more arcumspect. Sarcey, of the Opinione National*, pre him a dish that he did not well relish. Hare you heard that the famous Cardinal Jjchelieu'e head has been found out, and TM">ltht to the chapel of the Sarbonne? It was t'fcaferred the other day, with great ceremony, ■fix mausoleum, the Archbishop of Paris pre■W. The cardinal died in 1642. It was he ** founded the Sarbonne. The Princess Clotilde gave birth to a Princess °n the 19th; it is her first daughter: the other '*<• children are boys.
Monsieur Carot, our landscape painter, has heen in quest of a picture lent to an exhibition » the country; he could not remember to what '"■o he had lent it, and wrote to every place he f^d think of, but received an answer that it "'d not been seen. Tbe other day, having wmjted, jn, several pap«Mi » pUctu?e.ieller
; begged to inform Monsieur Carot that the pici ture was in his possession, waiting to be claimed
by the owner. I Our religious image-shops are full of little Jesuses in tbe manger, receiving the adoration 1 of the wise men of the East—some in plaster I statues as large as life, and at times very grotesque, but they excite the admiration of children and tbe people, and the shop windows are crowded. Adieu! with the compliments of the season. Yours truly, S. A.
MY YOUNG LOVE.
(ah imitation of the Irish.)
My young love is sweet as a June rose's blushes,
flushes; Her footsteps are light as the fall of the snow-flake, As it softly descends on the breast of the broad lake.
I lore the bright stars, when at midnight I view
them; The green branching trees, when the moonbeams peep
through them; Tbe clear gladsome voice of the pure new-born river. When it first greets the banks 'tis to flow through for
But for me the otnra near her eyes lose their brightness;
When her neck they kiss, the fair beams lose their whiteness:
Her voice than the river's low ripple is sweeter,
No fawn on the hillside more graceful or fleeter.
The brown nuts that cluster in ripe bunches drooping,
Now her brown eyes' beauty sweet shyness enhances;
The pink wreathed shells on the sea's broad edge
seeking, The whito-crcsteJ waves on its shallow shore breaking; These the hues that unite in her fair rose-tipped
fingers, The touch thrills my heart when their clasp on mine
No crystal stream flows, there is no depth in ocean
More pure or more deep than my fond heart's devotion;
Were I dead in my grave, and aught ill had rnarr'd, her,
Of itself would my arm arise boldly [to guard her.