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horizon was dimmed by vapours: Mount Viso and the whole chain of the Alps were tinted of a rosy hue by his first rays, and appeared in the distance like immense brilliant pyramids.

The Superga temple, which is said to be so called from its position on the ridge of these mountains, super terga montium, crowns this beauteous hill. It was built in 1706, by King Victor Amadeus I., in pursuance of a vow he had made to the Virgin, if the attack he concerted on that very spot with Prince Eugene should compel the French to raise the siege of Turin. This church and its monastery, of a fine architectural disposition, despite its impurities, pass for the best and most ingenious of Juvara's constructions. The Superga church is the burial place of the sovereigns of Piedmont, but the modern vaults of this Savoyard Saint Denis, all lined with white, yellow, and green marble, and light as day, seemed to me devoid of majesty and sadness; the fantastic ornaments of the architecture, not with standing the richness of its materials, are unsuited to the tombs of kings, and the stone arches, the caverns blackened by ages of the old basilics, are far more fitting for the sanctuaries of death. In a separate vault are the remains of the children and princes of the royal family that never ascended the throne: the first lived but a few days in innocence; the second may have been honoured as benefactors; both seemed to me happy in baving escaped the throne. This little throne of Savoy is, moreover, the one that numbers most abdications. One would say that these kings of the Alps, the sovereigns of ice and rock, whose dominions are nearest the heavens, take disgust at the earth more easily than others. In the apartment intended for the king is a complete collection of portraits of the popes, two hundred and fifty-three in number, from Saint Peter to the present possessor of his chair. When we reflect on the fact that the first thirty of these pontiffs were all martyrs, it is impossible not to admire and respect this new courage, unique in history, and this same and intrepid sacrifice to the same truth. If while con

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⚫ Amadeus VIII. in 4434; Victor Amadeus In 4730; Charles Emmanuel IV. In 1802; Victor Emnanuel in 1821..

templating the portraits of the succeeding popes, I sometimes fell on unworthy portions of this great history, the general impression was not destroyed, and instead of all the phantoms of human power, the exhibition of material and physical strength that pursues you in the other galleries, I loved to contemplate all these laborious helmsmen of Saint Peter's bark, the eternal representatives of the greatest moral power that ever acted on the world.

CHAPTER XII.

Pignerol.-Fortress.-Iron Mask, Fouquet, Lauzun. -Vaudese.-Susa.-Mount Cenis.

The duties of an old friendship led me to Pignerol, a little, agreeable, busy, garrison town, six miles from Turin, the retreat of a lady distinguished by her birth, ber successes, and her misfortunes. A pile of stones on a high mountain is the only remaining vestige of the castle that was the prison of the Iron Mask, Fouquet, and Lauzun, the first an anonymous victim of policy; the other two, illustrious coxcombs: Lauzun, of the court; Fouquet, of the bar and finance. Though the histories of prisoners are in general most attractive, the memory of the two last confined in Pignerol did not inspire me with the profound pity that belongs to captives who have suffered for some grand conviction of thought or conscience. Perhaps also the vain and pedantic passion of Lauzun and Mademoiselle disposed me but little to the melting mood; and when we see this princess console herself for her spoiled teeth, because they would remind her lover that she was cousin to the king, it is impossible to suppress a laugh at such egregious coquetry. As I passed over these rugged mountains, I remembered the not inapposite answer of Lauzun, which proves that misfortune may also have its vanity, and that, after a great catastrophe, little troubles seem unworthy of our notice. Being invited to alight from the carriage at a dangerous pass, he refused, saying, "Those mishaps are not made for me." At the sight of the ruins of this ancient fortress of France, I regretted that the author of the Lépreux and of Prascovie had declined publishing his novel of the Pri

706

VAUD.

sonnière de Pignerol; I fancied that
his narrative would supply the pathos
that seemed to be wanting to the well-
known adventures of the prisoners re-
corded in history.

The adjacent valleys, near the river
Pelis, were inhabited by the Waldenses,
or Vaudese, celebrated for the persecu-
tions they suffered, and for the antiquity of
their purified christianity, which existed
four hundred years before the Reforma-
tion. It is said that the commissioners
of Louis XII., who were charged to visit
them when he passed through the Alps,
declared that these mountaineers were
better Christians than themselves, though
the king's confessor was one of them.
The illustrious Sadolet was also favour-
able to the Waldenses, and when bishop of
Carpentras he offered an asylum to some
of their fugitives who had been con-
demned to the stake by the Provençal
parliament, which also ordered the de-
struction of their houses and woods, and
he humanely pleaded their cause. These
hordes form a population of about twenty
thousand persons; the superficies of the
valleys is a hundred and thirty thousand
hectares, of which not less than ten thou-
sand five hundred are cultivated; ten
thousand covered with woods; and the
rest unproductive.
thirteen temples and as many moderators
The Vaudese have
(ministers). called also barbes, whence
their name of barbets, who have each a
salary of 500 francs. One of these mo-
derators, M. Appia, was charged, from
1815 to 1828, to visit Germany, France,
and England; the pecuniary assistance
he obtained amounted to above 20,000l.,
and the greater part was invested in
England, which gave rise to the belief
that the English paid the moderators.
The schools, seventy-five in number, are
only open in winter: the principal is that
of La Tour, where Greek and Latin are
taught. The Vaudese are chiefly hus-
bandmen and shepherds. At Villar-
Bobbio and La Tour, there are a hun-

See a note in the Expédition nocturne autour de ma Chambre, by Count X. de Maistre.

[BOOR XXL

turing cloth. There are twelve furnaces dred and fifty men engaged in manufacand several foundries in the valleys, which produce about five hundred tons the Vaudese to possess property out of of iron a year. The law that forbade their valleys, and the impossibility of obtaining military rank, are unjust inequalities that have now nearly ceased, the present king having raised several of them to the rank of officers.

for its marble triumphal arch consecrated Susa, a little pleasant town, is noted to Augustus, remarkable for the bassosacrifice,—a monument which recalls the relievos of its frieze representing a triple antique arches of Rome, and seemed to me a noble entrance to Italy.

I have twice crossed Mount Cenis in December when returning to France; foggy; the paved road was dirty and dull, the first time, the weather was mild and without physiognomy or character. I passed it on the second occasion in a sledge drawn along the snow, during a hard frost.

with rime and presented a superb spectacle; its torrents were frozen and moMount Cenis was loaded tionless nature alone can enchant the of cristal, hanging from the rocks, were devastators she sends, and their festoons reflected the light and the solar rays. like dazzling lustres which beautifully The deep precipices, the black and roarI often appealed to Dante for descriptions ing abysses were all silent and gloriously white. If in my journeys through Italy, try, he still offered me, at the summit of of the sites and monuments of his counthe Alps, his harmonious and picturesque falling lightly on the moantain top: language to express the lakes of snow

Come di neve in Alpe senza vento.

reco

work, inspired by the aspect or
lections of Italy, with a passage take
I love to close this long and laboriou
from her greatest poet.

Inf. XIV. 30.

THE END.

PRINTED BY CASIMIR, 42, RUE DE LA VIEILLE-MONNAIE.

INDEX.

A.

Abano, Pietro, physician, philosopher,heretic:
his portrait, 209, 241.

Abate, Nicholas dell', painter of the Mode-
nese school (46th century), 237, 255, 270.
Abbadie: his treatise on the truth of the
Christian religion still in the Index, 551.
Abbazia, church at Venice, 184.

Abbiati. Filippo, painter of the Milanese
school (47th century), 43.

Abbondio, St., his bust at the Lyceum of
Cosmo, 81.

Abondio, St., church at Cremona, 306.
Abruzzi, the, 435.

Academy, house of Cicero, 472.

-, Aldine, at Venice, formed for the exami-
nation of the classics; Greek only spoken,
166

- of Cortona, 653.

of France at Rome, 571.
of Naples at Rome, 579.
Arcadian, at Rome, 528, 557.

- of Fine Arts, at Florence, 379.
- of Fine Arts, at Mantua, 292.
- of Fine Arts, at Perugia, 654.
- of Fine Arts, at Reggio, 270.
of Fine Arts, at Turin, 699.
- of Fine Arts at Venice, 167, 185.
-of St. Luke, at Rome, 535.

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- of the Innominati, at Orvieto, 632.
- of the Intronati, at Siena, 632.

elementary, of Fine Arts at Ravenna, 419.
- of Sciences, Letters, and Arts, at Pádua;
its memoirs; one of its meetings, 197.

of Sciences, Letters, and Arts, at Arezzo,
660.

- of Sciences, Letters, and Arts, at Pistoja,
668.

-, Olympic, at Vicenza; its dramatic perform-
ances, 128.

Philharmonic, at Rome, 573.

, Platonic, at Florence, 371.
Pontaniana, at Naples, 455.

royal, formerly degl' Oscuri, at Lucca, 674.
-, royal, of Sciences, at Turin, 699.
royal military, at Turin, 699.
Academies, poetical and literary, of Italy,
advantageouly replaced by scientific so-
cieties, 337.

Accaramboni, Virginia: her elegy on the
death of her murdered husband, 34.
Acciajoli, ancient palace, at Florence, now
an hotel, 371.

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Adjutori, the canon Don Desiderio de': his
skull shown as Raphael's, at the Academy
of St. Luke, 533.

Adonis, house of, at Pompeii, 481.

Adrian, emperor, 472, 523. His mausoleum,
581. His vilia, 597.

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- VI., pope, supposed by some Italtan
writers to be Ludovico Rampini, born at
Renzano, near Salo, 103, 511, 534.
-IV., his tomb, 503.

-, St., church at Pavia, 78.
Edes Joviæ, at Cosmo, 81.

Ætion, Greek painter : his Marriage of Alex-
ander and Roxana,imitated by Raphael,596.
Affo, P. Ireneo, librarian of Parma: his Me-
morie degli Scrittori e Letterati parmi-
giani, 276 n., 279, 287, 288. 292, 308 n.
Afra. St., church at Brescia, 97.
Agatha, St., church at Ravenna, 418.
Agesander, sculptor, 516.

Agigulphus, duke of Turin: his marriage with
Queen Theodolinda, 72.

Agincourt, d' opinion of the his church of

St. Michael at Pavia contradicted by San-
Quintino, 79 n.; 531 n.; his tomb, 552,
614, 629.

Agli, Antonio degli, a competitor for the
prize-poem upon True Friendship, adjudged
to the cathedral of Florence, 351.
Aglietti, Dr. Francesco, celebrated physician
of Venice, editor of Algarotti's works, 461.
Agnano, lake of, 470.

Agnelli, Barbara, erected a mausoleum to her
husband, 303.

Agnello a capo Napoli, St., church at Naples,

453.

Agnes. St., church at Rome, 554.

-extra muros, church near Rome, 503, 547,
580.

Agnese, female mathematician of Milan: her
medallion, 62.

Agnesiana, library of Vercelli, 33.
Agnolo, Baccio d', architect, 538, 344.
-, Gabriele, architect, 442.'

di Tura, chronicler, 627.
Agostini, brothers Santi, painters, 50.
Agostino, Agostino San, painter, 43.

of Siena, sculptor 4th century), 534,
614, 618, 624, 627, 629. 638.
Agrario, public garden at Bologna, 239.
Agrate, Marco, sculptor (15th century): his
St. Bartholomew, 38.

Agricola, Cav. Filippo, painter, 419.
Agucchi, Giambattista, learned prelate, 604.
Aigle, valley of, 15.

Airenti, Filippo, bishop of Savona, 689.
Akerblad: his letter to Courier, 212 n.
Ala, town, 104

Alassio, town, 680.

Alba, town of the Equi, now a village, 494.

Albani, countess of, friend of Alfieri, 325,

534; her tomb, 336.

Albani, villa, 596.

- palace at Rome, 567.

-, cardinal, 429.

Albano, Francesco, painter of the Bolognese
school (46th century), 60, 244, 244, 245, 248,
231, 25a, 234, 264, 324, 419, 439, 529, 554,
581, 622, 694.

Albarese, marshes of, near Siena, 635.
Albaro, hill at Genoa, 682.

Albenga, town, 689.

Albergati Capacelli, palace at Bologna, 256.
Alberghetti, Alfonso, Ferrarese sculptor

(16th century): his statue of the Virgin
della Scarpa, 147, 214.

Albergo de' Poveri, hospital at Genoa, 686.
Albergotti d' Arezzo, 656.

Alberoni, legate of Romagna, 421, 426.
Alberti, Francesco Altobianco degl', one of
the competitors for the prize-poem upon
True Friendship, adjudged to the cathedral
of Florence, 351.

-da Borgo San Sepolcro, Alberto, architect
(16th century), 243.

-, Leone Battista, great Florentine archi-
tect (16th century), 291, 295, 297, 331;
his gallery and cupola of the Annunziata,
at Florence, 352, 359, 362, 366, 371; his
church of St. Francis at Rimini, 425, 570.
Alberti, Michelangelo, painter of the Floren-
tine school (16th century), 548.

Florentine paint

Albertinelli, Mariotto,
(16th century), 332.
Albertolli, professor Giocondo, 49.
Albizzi, Rinaldo degli, enemy of Cosmo d
Medici, 316, 370; died at Ancona, 452.
Albizzola, town, birth-place of Julius 11., C8
Albrizzi, Isabella-Teotochi: her house, h
portrait, her Ritratti, 164, 168, 199.
Alcamenes, Greek sculptor, 442.
Alciati, Francesco: his tomb, 546.
Aldighieri, or Altichiero da Zevio, of Verona
painter (44th century), 200.

Aldini, Giovanni, professor at Bologna, 260
Aldobrandini, cardinal, 556.

villa, 602.

Aldobrandini Marriage, antique painting, 508
Aldrovandi, palace, at Bologna, 254.
Aldrovando, Ulisse: his scientific manuscript
returned to the library of the Bologna uni
versity, 238

Aldus the elder, 466; his application to
work, 228; books with his manuscrip
notes, at the Barberini, 469.

-

the younger, his intention of bequeathing
the library of his ancestors to Venice, 455 n
Alençon, Philip d', cardinal: his tomb, 557
Aleni, Tommaso, painter of the Cremones
school (16th century), 306.

Aleotti, Giambattista, architect, 283.
Alessi, Galeaso, of Perugia, architect (1611
century), 37, 41, 48, 645, 646, 649, 633, 677
680, 682, 684, 685, 687, 688.

Alessandrin, cardinal: his tomb, 550.
Alessandrini, professor at the university of
Bologna, 236 n.

Alexander della Croce, St., church at Ber-
gamo, 87.

-, St., church at Brescia, 97.

in colonna, St., church at Bergamo, 87.

-, St., church at Fiesole, 590.

St., church at Lucca, 668.

in Zebedia, church at Milan, 43.

St., church at Parma, 280.

dying, colossal head so called, 322.

VI. (Borgia) compared to God, 508, 582.
VII., pope, 563, 619.

VIII., pope, 140.

- Severus, emperor, 474, 494, 567, 573, 588.
Alexandria, town. 693.

Alfieri: his verses upon the Brescian women
93, 101 n.; his sonnet on Venice, 462; 01
Arquà, 215; his inscription on the manu
script of the Furioso, 225; effect of hi
pieces at their representation, 268; on th
patriotism which he created, ibid., 304; hi
sonnet on Alexander dying, 522; his ma
nuscripts and the editions of the ancier
authors which he used, at the Laurentiar
332; on his Congiura de' Pazzi, 542; b
mausoleum at the church of Santa Croc
354; his house at Florence, 378; his furiot
note to avenge Machiavel of Amirato, 59
393; quoted, 404, 410, 419, 438 n., 503; h
sonnet upon the Moses of Michael Angel
542, 559; his anger at typographical error
559; his epitaph at Gori-Gandellini, 624
his love of Siena, 630, 674, 676; represer
tation of his Polynice, 683; his house
Asti, 693, 696.

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Aliberti, the abbé, Piemontese painter (48th,Tommaso, sculptor, of Cremona (15th cen-
century), 702.

Aliense, surname of Antonio Vassilacchi,
painter born in Greece (16th century), 154.
Alighieri, Francesco, last descendant of
Dante, erected the tomb of his two brothers,
like him learned men of letters, 113.
Aliotti, Pietrantonio, nicknamed by Michel-
Angelo, 595.

Allatius, Leone, prefect of the Vatican, 554;
books with notes in his handwriting at the
Barberiana, 569.

Allegranza, Padre his opinion on the pre-
tended sarcophagus of Stilicon and his wife
Serena, 46.

Allegri: his Miserere, 507.

Allent his reasonable conjectures on the

death of Pietro Navarro, in his Histoire du
Corps du Génie, 460 n.; 678 n.
Allio, or Aglio, Matteo, of Milan, sculptor
and architect (17th century), 200.
Allori, Angelo, Alessandro, and Cristoforo,
painters of the Florentine school (16th
century). See Bronzino.

Alpino, Prospero, physician, traveller, bo-
tanist, introduced coffee into Europe, 430.
Alps: their appearance from the height of St.
Cergues, 2.

Altemps, palace at Rome, 573.

-, cardinal, built the Mondragone villa to
obtain the pope's favour, 603.
Altilio, of the Neapolitan Academy, 453.
Altimoresca, Ludovico; his tomb, 453
Aitoviti, Oddo, Florentine patrician, 362.
palace at Florence, 370.

Alvarez, contemporary Spanish sculptor, 535.
Alvisopolt, printing establishment, named
after the little village where it was founded,
and transferred to Venice, 467.

tury), 306.

Aminado, Giulio-Cesare, painter of the Par-
mesan school (16th century), 283.
Ammanato, Bartolommeo, Tuscan sculptor
and architect (15th century), 204, 244; his
fountain in the Piazza of the Grand Duke at
Florence, 318; 344, 348, 564, 373, 383, 394.
531, 562, 595, 638. 670.

Ammirato, Scipio, historian, 374 n.; attacks
Machiavel, and is censured by Alfieri, 393.
Ampere, M., 232 n.

-

Amphitheatre of Arezzo, 657— of Capua, 495
- of Lucca, 671 of Pompeii, 481 - or
Coliseum, of Pozzuoli, 472- of Sutrium.
609 of Verona, 106.

Anachronisms of Venetian painters, 99.
Anastasia, St., church at Verona, 110.
Ancona, town, 431.

Ancre, Marshal d', of Arezzo, 657.
Anderloni, Pietro, engraver, 61.
Andes, Virgil's native place, 294. n. 298, 3035.
Andrea, painter (14th century), 638.

- d'Alessandro, of Brescia, sculptor
century, 473.

16th

-d'Assisi, painter of the Roman school (13th
century), 647.

-

of Fiesole, sculptor (15th century), 247.
230, 366.

- Pisano, architect (14th century): error of
the Encyclopédie respecting him, 486 n.;
343, 345, 663.

-

- of Salerno, or Sabbatini, painter of the Nea
politan school (16th century), 445, 456.
- Giovanni, Milanese conspirator, and his
associates invoke St. Ambrose, 46.

-, Novella d', daughter of the professor of
canon law at Bologna, replaces her father,

237.

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