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name, had he been wise enough to paint | de' Bacci, an intimate friend of Leo less. The hall of the Ahasuerus is the and captain of his guards, an empl place where are held the sittings of the that Aciosto coveted, which he upbraid Arezzo Academy of sciences, letters, and his relative Annibale Malaguzzo for i arts, which has taken the title of Pe. having procured, and which he seem trarca.

really worthy to fill under such a por The museum of the Cav. Bacci, who also possesses the rich Rossi collection,

Cugin, con quest' esempio vo' che spacci

Quel che credon che l' papa porre innanti is justly celebraled among antiquaries.

Ni debba a Neri, a Vanni, a Lolli, e a Bacci. The most important are : a great Etruscan vase found near Arezzo, and repre At one mile from Florence stands senting the combat of the Amazons; a antique monastery of San Salvi, wt collection of red vases, of wbich there has in the refectory a Cenaculum, seems to have been a manufactory at admirable fresco, a chef-d'æuvre of Arezzo, moulds having been found there; drea del Sarto. It was here, in 1: a secespita, or sacrificial knife, and a that the emperor Henry VII., the 1 large Etruscan coin weighing more than and ally of Dante, encamped, when, two pounds. S. Bacci, one of whose cited by that emigrant of genius, he ancesiors, Ludovico Bacci, is supposed sieged (he poet's native town, wh to have been the natural father of Pietro without compassion or clemency, wa Aretino, is descended from that Gualleru | banish bim for ever from its bosom.

BOOK THE NINETEENTH.

ROAD FROM FLORENCE TO GENOA.- PRATO.-PISTOJA.-LUCCA.-MASSA

SARZANA.

CHAPTER I.

its industry, and the works of art in

of its monuments. Campi.-Statistical phenomenon.- Prato.- Catbe The cathedral and its eleganti dral.- Pulpit by Donatello.–Paintings by Lippi. of the fifteenth century, are still G -- Mansoleuin of Carlo de' Medici.-Carceri.-Pre The basso-relievo of the Virgin, be torio palace.--Cicognioi College.--Montemurlo. St. Stephen and St Laurence, ov

principal door, is by Luca della R Six miles from Florence, Campi, a The little children dancing thal de Jarge town washed by the Bisenzio, of the pulpit on the piazza where th fers a picturesque castle which was fre- raculous cintola (girdle of the Vir quently taken and ravaged in the wars shown to the people, are reckon of the middle ages, and a church, a pious most charming of Donatello's ever foundation of the same period, bulstripped ful children. The bronze Cruc of every thing characteristic by repealed Tacca is extolled. The painting, renovations. This lown owes its pre- choir, by Filippo Lippi the elde sent faine and the easy circumstances haps his best work, have been des of its inhabitants to the sale of straw hals. praised for design, colour, draperi Such is the prosperity of the territory of expression; in čierod's feast, ibe Campi, that it presents the statistical has given his own portrait amo phenomenon of nine hundred and len spectators, in the person of a pr persons per square mile.

black clothes ; and in the Life of s The small town of Prato is remarkable be has painted his favourite pus for its cleanliness, the developement of | Diamante, among those who

rying the saint and so pathetically mourn- | Prato, which, after aspiring to the soveing his death. We may further distin- reignty, was at last driven into exile guish in the different chapels a St. and bad all its property confiscated, is Laurence, by Balassi, which doubtless allied with reminiscences of the stormy escaped the fatal changes that this Flo- liberty of that little republic, too often reptine artist of the seventeenth century subservient to Florence. had the mania of operating on his earlier The college generously founded by a works in bis old age; the Virgin giving citizen of Prato, Francesco Cicognini, and her girdle to St. Thomas, by Rodolfo at first confided to the Jesuits, is a handGhirlandajo; the Guardian Angel, by some building, which contains a superb Carlo Dolci, and especially the St. Ber: theatre and lodges the grand duke when nard in his coffin surrounded by his dis- he comes to Prato : though occasionally consolate monks, another of Lippi's fine a palace, a court, and a ibeatre, I have productions. The balustrade of the not heard that this kiod of frivolity has chapel of the Madonna della Cintola is affected the regime of the establishment a rather elegant work of Simone, Dona or the solidity of the studies. Lello's brother. The marble pulpit, Saint Dominick was probably erected with basso-relievos representing subjects at the impulse of the celebrated cardinal taken from the history of the Virgin, by Nicolao di Prato, one of the great men Mino of Fiesole, is so perfectly wrought in education and politics of the thirteenth ibat it seems of one piece. The Virgin, century, who had attended the lectures on the mausoleum of Carlo de' Medici, of Saint Thomas at Paris, was papal leby Vincenzo Danti, though of broad style gate in Tuscany, Romagna, the province and fine forms, is somewhat cold; the of Trevisa, and whose jurisdiction extendinfant Jesus is esteemed for his ingenuous ed over the state of Genoa and the islands air, and the deep feeling of the execu of Corsica and Sardinia. On passing tion. This Carlo de' Medici, a bastard, through Florence, Nicolao had attempted the fruit of the youthful errors of tbe lo conciliate the differences between the Father of his country, though a canon of nobles and the people, but being equally Florence, and archpriest (proposto) of suspected by Blacks and Whites, he was Prato, lived in retirement at Rome, occu forced to leave the city, wbich he analbepied with art and literature. Cosmo and matised. Al his death he left a consibis broibers commissioned bim to pur-derable sum to enlarge the convent and chase medals and manuscripts, and church of Saint Dominick, monuments thereby be again appeared worthy of the remarkable for the history of the art, Medici blood.

though modernised in some parts, and by The elegant church of the Madonna Giovanni Pisano. Two paintings full of delle Carceri (thus called from the mi- nature are by the elder Lippi. raculous image placed over a window of On the road from Pralo to Pistoja, and the ancient prisons) is of Giuliano San five miles from the latter place, is the Gallo's architecture. His brother An- castle of Montemurlo, an unfavourable tonio, one of the four great architects of position at the foot of the Apennines, that family, has executed the rich high- where the Florentine emigrants, the last aitar. A God the Father crowning the and impotent avengers of their country's Virgin by the hands of angels, several liberty, were defeated and taken on the of whom are playing on different instru. 1st of August 15:37. The chamber is ments, is by the Florentine Soggi, an ac still shown in which was confined the curate and careful painter, but without illustrious Filippo Strozzi, the Cato of Genius, preferred for this work to Andrea Florence,' the prisoner of Alessandro del Sarto by the canon of Pralo, Baldo Vitelli, less a warrior than a brigand, Magini, a friend of Leo X., who had or till now regarded as the only conqueror dered it. The personage kneeling be- or that field, whereas he ought to share fore the bishop, Si. Ubald, represents the sad honour with Bombaglino of Baldo.

Arezzo, a less famous chief, whom The Pretorio palace, now a court or Cosmo 1., as tyrants are woni io do, at justice, the old residence or fortress of last deprived of his liberty on slight ibe Guazzaliotri, a Guelph family or preleals."

See ante, book a. cb. ll.

* See the detoiis on the Rolla di Montemurlo,

CHAPTER II.

Eternal Father in the midst of angels

and the other frescos of the ceiling, ar Pistoja.- Accent.-Duomo.-Allar.-Mausoleums or by Passignano, and were done before hil Cardinal Forteguerri:- of Cino. - Baptistry,

visit to Rome. In the chapel of the Holy Sleeple.-Saint John.- Holy Ghost.- Organ.-Boly Sacrament, the Virgin, the infant Je Sacrament.-Saint Peter.-Virgia, by R. Gbirlan sus and two Saints, a justly celebrated dajo.--Santa Maria del Letto.-Carmine.

painting, by Credi, has been attributed

io Leonardo Vinci, whose style the au Pistoja, with straight wide streets and thor successfully imitated. The marbl fine edifices, seems deserted; its popu- portrait of the bishop Donato Medic Talion does not exceed len thousand souls.

an elegant basso-relievo by an unknow Its accent is deemed, with that of Siena,

author, is perhaps by Bernardo Rossel the purest in Tuscany.

lini. The altar of the Madonna dell abounds in objects of art of the great- | bealed that cutaneous malady-a fresc The antique cathedral of Pistoja porrine or pustule, preserves the vene

raled antique picture which formerl est magnificence and highest interest. Founded in the beginning of the twellth prior by about a century and a halli century by the countess Matilda, it was

The revival of painting at Florence. Th restored in after times by Nicolao Pi- painting of the Saints Batontus an sano. Over the principal entrance, the

Didier, at the Buonsanti allar, is by Ca basso-relievo of the Virgin, angels, and labrese. The St. Bartholomew, poor seraphim, as also the flowers and fruits design, on the allar of the Sapienza, w of the upper window, are by Luca and

painted by Bonecchi, a Florentine art Agostino della Robbia. An antique urn,

of tbe last century, wben eighty yea in the ward-robe, with a basso-relievo old. The tomb of Nicolao Foriegue of the best style, contained for more than (Carteromaco), an illustrious prelate seven centuries the bones of Saint Felix, the blleenth century, ancestor of u priest of Pistoja. The tomb of the bi- merry author of Ricciardetto, also shop Leone Strozzi was ordered by him Pistoja, was begun in 1474 by Verro and executed at Carrara in his lifetime. chio, and terminated by Lorenzett In the chapel of Saint James, the silver The Faith, the Hope, the God the Fath altar, a rival of the rich and brilliant altar in the midst of angels, are also by Ve in the baptistry of Florence, a curious rocchio, but unfinished, on account monument of silversmith's art and sculp-bis departure for Venice, wbere he h ture of all the fourteenth century, co

orders to erect the Colleoni monume vered with subjects taken from the saint's

which bis irritable self-love was destin life, or Bible history, is by the cleverest

to render so fatal to him.' artists and workmen of the epoch, such

The mausoleum of Cino da Pistoja as Leonardo di Ser Giovanni (who is not

not, as osten stated, by Andrea Pisai the sole author, as Vasari and other

but an uncertain Sienese artist, perh writers have said), Pier, a Florentine Goro di Gregorio. Cino, the honou goldsmith, Andrea Jacopo Ognabene, a

Pistoja, a great jurisconsult, professo goldsmith of Pistoja, Peter Henry, a

Roman law, and a graceful poet, German sellied in the same town. I'wo | the master of both Bartolo and Petra of the Prophets, at the extremities, are

who so tenderly lamented him,' and by the great Brunelleschi and worthy of friend of Dante, like bimself a Ghibe him. A Resurrection in the gallery, the and of Boccaccio. The two basso largest painting by the third Bronzino,

lieros represent him gravely seate is unfinished owing to the indolence and

his chair, which he bad nobly pred caprice of the artist, who was also to

to the dignity of gonfalonier of Pis have executed the Ascension and the In each of these basso-relievos ma Descent of the Holy Ghost, confided to

observed a woman standing, doul Florentine painters Veli and Pagani. Cino's Selvaggia, the objecư of his Two small paintings by Vasari, formerly tical flame : near the tabernacle, are very good. The Cbe viva e morta li dovea tor pace,

extracted from the inedited manuscripts of the marquis Ludovico Tempi, publisbed l. XLII. p. 103, of ile Antologia.

See ante, book vi. ch. xviil.
See the One soonel :
Piangele, donde, e con rol pianga Amor

and the less illustrious companion of ferent niches, of nearly the same epoch, Laura and Beatrix. The elegant Bap- are admirable works for composition and tistry and its fine sculptures are by An- drapery. The present heavy architecdrea Ferrucci of Fiesole. The sleeple, lure is by P. Ramignani. A good Viran antique tower, perbaps the abode of gin with St. Peter and St. Paul, of ibe podestates of the people, whose arms 1509, is by Gerini Gerino, of Pistoja, and are still visible, owes ils present form to bas not been removed to the Florence Giovanni Pisano.

gallery, as Lanzi supposed. A Virgin Saint Jobo Rotondo, octagonal and on a throne with St. Sebastian, St. Gresurmounted with a pyramidal leaden gory and two other saints, by Rodolfo roof, appears of the beginning of the Ghirlandajo, in Raphael's style, is the fourteenth century. It is incrusted ex finest painting at Pistoja. The new orternally with black and while marble, gan is reckoned the best yet executed by and would be, according to Professor S. Tronci, a clever organ-builder of Pisa Ciampi's conjecture, like all similar build- toja, which town is noted for these inings, a monument of the reconciliation struments. of the Whites and Blacks, factions which The suppressed church of Saint Didier sprung up at Pistoja.' The small sta- still presents the elegant and majestic toes and basso-relievos over the door fresco of the Martyrdom of the ten are by Nino and Tommaso Pisano, the thousand crucified, by Sebastiano Vini, sons and pupils of Andrea, if they are a Veronese painter of the sixteenth cennot older.

tury, who settled at Pistoja. The preThe church of the Holy Ghost seems servation of this fresco is due to the pathe culpable performance of a coalition triotic amateur, the Cav. Giulio Amati, of the first masters of the decline : the the purchaser of the property, and worplan is by the Jesuit Ramignani, a worthy iby of his ancestor Domenico, by whose popil of the P. Pozzi; the bead of St. | order it was painted. Javier among the infidels is by the lat The Annunziata has some good picter, who may possibly have done the tures : the Presentation at the temple, whole picture; several allars are by Bor Vini's masterpiece: the painting of the romini; the rich high-altar is by Ber- choir, by the Dominican Fra Paolino del nini, and Our Lord appearing to St. Signoraccio, the pupil, friend, and heir Ignatius, by Pietro of Cortona. The of Fra Bartolommeo, or by ihe second four beautiful columns of vert antique al Leonardo Malatesta, another good painthe bigh altar came from the villa of ter of Pistoja; a Nativity of the Virgin, Pope Julius III., and were torn from by Cigoli, a work of the highest order Vignola's chefs-d'œuvre to be thrown for strength of colouring, boldoess of amidst all these horrors. The organ, pencil, and skilful management of the built by the Flemish Jesuit Joseph Her-light; the six lunettes and five portraits mann, who also made the famous organ of cardinals, in the cloister, by Poccelli. of Trent, is boasted for its sweetness, The antique church of Saint Bartholovariety, and harmony, as one of the won mew in Pantano bas some old monuders of Pistoja.

ments of art and several paintings : the The roof of the church of the Holy sculpture of the architrave, Christ sendSacrament is painted by Moro Tesi. A ing forth the Apostles to preach, of 1167. Resurrection, a picture by Lanfranco, by an unknown author; a pulpit, of 1250, passes for the best in the lown.

resting on three columns, with the NaThe antique church of Saint Peter tivity of Christ, by Guido da Como, onc Major, of the eighth century, formerly of the first imitators of Nicolao Pisano ; appertaining to the nuns of Saint Bene a Crucifix of wood with Greek letters, dict, whose abbess, in the middle ages, anterior to 1187; the Virgin, St. Benesolemoly espoused the bishop, when he dict and other saints, by Butleri; St. look possession of his see, now belongs Sebastian, by Matteo Rosselli; the St. to the Franciscan nuns. It was rebuilt Peter Igneus receiving the cardinal's in the thirteenth century, and the archi- hat, one of the few works of Cipriani, trave over the grand portal, with the a painter of Pistoja and pupil of HugChrist, the Virgin, and Apostles in dif- ford; he died at London in 1790, and the

engravings of Bartolozzi will give perpe. · Vita di Cino, Car. 154.

tuity to his drawings; in the sacristy St.

John the Baptist, St. James, St. Sebas. | Ferretti, a spirited and picturesque pain tian, by Rossermini, a reputed pupil of ter of the seventeenth century, is esPerugino.

teemed, and reckoned the best of hi Saint Laurence has a Deposition from frescos. A fine Flagellation is by Lanthe cross, by Fontebuoni, of Pistoja, franco. The venerated portrait of the who died young, and a Repose in Egypt, Saint, by an artist unknown, was, it i by Veracini.

said, executed clandestinely by one o At Santa Maria del letto, so called his disciples, a painter. from a bed of the old hospital, preserved The ancient library of the Philippioes there, as a memorial of the cure of a a present from Cardinal Carlo Agostin sick person by the Virgin's intercession, | Fabroni, and chiefly composed of eccle are : the Martyrdom of St. Catherine, siastical books and manuscripts, is now by Naldini; the Virgin with St. Cathe- superintended by the canons of the ca rine, St. Jerome, and other saints, by thedral. The building is superb. Som Fra Paolino del Signoraccio; a Crowning of the sculptures are by masters of th of the Virgin, which was long counted decline: Cornacchini, who was a nativ among the finest works of Daniello of or Pistoja, made two groups of the ves Volterra, but is now ascertained to be his libule, and Algardi a bronze Crucifix. clever pupil's, Benedello Orsi; the Virgin The magnificent temple of Santa M: on a throne and several saints, by Credi, ria dell' Umilità, which has one of th ranked by Vasari among the best paint- finest cupolas in Italy, and only wants ings of Pistoja ; a Virgin in the midst front lo be complete, bonours the talen of saints, by Vini, seeble in colouring, of an architect of Pistoja, Ventura V good in the design and draperies, con- toni, a distinguished pupil of Braman taining several contemporary portraits : disparaged by Vasari, who, being e it is pretended that the female counten- gaged to carry on his beautiful and o ance given to Satan is the likeness of a ginal work, spoiled it by superaddi noble lady of Pistoja, called la Bella bulls'-eyes and a lantero. Several pai Cecchina, who had jilled the painter ; | ings are remarkable: a St. James, in Christ, with the Virgin, St. James, and antique style, is ascribed to Gerino: other saints, a painting badly retouched, | Repose in Egypt is among the best wol by Poppi, a pupil and imitator of Vasari. of Lazzaro Baldi, a distinguished pu

The hospital called the Ceppo bas seven of Pietro of Cortona : an Adoration compartments on its outside representing the Magi, by Francesco Vanni, and diferent acts of charity, excellent and of bis best works, but injured by expressive works, by the brothers Gio- louching; an Assumption, by Poppi vanni Luca and Geronimo della Robbia : good Annunciation, by Fei. a pupil the figures in white gowns with a black Ghirlandajo. Opone of the allars, am scapulary are in the costume of the friars a number of ex-voto offerings in sil who then tended the patients.

may be seen the laurel crown awar The pretty church del Carmine has a al the Capitol to the celebrated Mac Virgin on a throne, St. Nicholas, and lena Morelli Fernandez, a simple other saints, by the second Leonardo sant of the environs of Pistoja, Malatesta, and the Fall of the manna known under the Arcadian name of in the desert, a fine painting by Cigoli, rilla Olimpica, and which she piously which he presented to the canon Baldi- secrated to the image of the Madoni notti, who had rescued him from the hos The architrave of Saint John the pital, and in which the too grateful gelist has this Gothic distich und artist is said to have given Moses the Last Supper : likeness of the canon.

Cenans discipulis Cbristus dat verba salutis CHAPTER III.

Cena novam tribuit legem, veterem quogu Saint Philip.- Pabrooiana library.-L'Umilit).

The pulpit of this church, of abc Saint John the Evangelist.-Pulpit.-Saint Dominick.-Mausoleums of Lazzari and Rosselligi.

end of ibe tbirteenth century, ad Saint John the Baptist.---Bisbop's palace.-Ricci.

with several heads full of life and e -Saint Francis.-Carradori.-Saini Andrew. appears the work of one of the best

and imitators of Nicolao Pisano The cupola of Saint Philip of Neri, by I basso-relievo of the Visitation is

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