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who sent the Cav. d'Arpino to Pe- | contains the archives of the town. Some rugia to execute it. This copy presents twenty years ago, they discovered there certain pieces of clare-obscure which a walled chamber, a kind of secret arare not in the original, now in the Bor-chives, containing precious manuscripts ghese gallery. It is said that the guar- of the time when Perugia was opulent dian of the Franciscans, just before he and free. These documents were prowas despoiled of the Deposition, cut off bably concealed in this manner when those parls and kept them in the sacristy the republic was abolished, lo prevent until 1799, when they passed to the mu their removal to Rome, and the conseseum of the Louvre, and in 1815 to the quent loss of the litle-deeds of ancient gallery of the Vatican. The chapel of privileges. It is presumed that these arthe Gonfalone preserves the religious chives supplied the article on the sump: standard veneraied at Perugia, a talis- tuary laws of Perugia in the fourteenth man invoked by the people when suf- century, published by S. Vermiglioli, a fering under natural scourges; ils solemn document valuable as a specimen of the procession is not accorded by the bishop | Perugian dialect, and remarkable for but at the urgent requcst of the muni- the severity of the measures it contains, cipal magistrates and with the most rigid wbich are chiefly directed against the formalities. In the sacristy, several sub- extravagant dresses of the ladies. It jects taken from the History of St. Ber seems that the taste for dress was then nardin, miniature paintings. but the excessive in Italy, as similar edicts existed colouring is harsh and the figures loo al Florence and in the other states, and long and too dry, are attributed to Dante, an admirable painter of manders, Pisanello. This sacristy contains the wrote vehemently against it : bones of the illustrious Braccio Fortebracci, an able Italian captain and tac
Non avea catenella, non corona, tician of the fifteenth century, lord of
Non donne contigiate, non cintura Perugia, the great man of that town and
Che fosse a veder plù che la persona.' one of the ephemeralconquerors of Rome.
Thc hall del Cambio, the Exchange of But it is impossible to suppress one's in- Perugia in the fifteenth century, is de dignation at the manner in which these
corated with frescos by Perugino, who glorious remains are shown; the sacrisian takes them out of a miserable cup- Ingegno, as Vasari and his copier Lanzi
was aided in this work by his pupil !! board and throws them on the table for pretend. These admirable frescos retravellers to examine as a kind of curio- present the portraits of illustrious men sity. It is high time that the patriotism of antiquity, and in the chapel adjoining or the Perugians had put an end to this
divers subjects from the old and New indecent profanation, and consecrated to
Testamenis, with Perugino's portrait, Braccio the mausoleum he deserves.
and they have been ably celebrated by a
poet of our own days, s. Mezzanolle, CHAPTER V.
professor at the university.
The fountain of the piazza is one of Corso.-Substructions.- Public palace.-Lurury In The first and best works of Giovaoni Pidress among ladies of the fourteenth century.
sano, who also sculplured the basso-reCambio-Fountain.-Statue of Julius III.-Arch
lievos of the first conch. of Augustus.
The piazza del Papa bas at last reThe fine Corso and the piazza del So- this persecuted monument, a martyr of
ceived tbe bronze statue of Julius III. ; prammuro, wbich is parallel thereto, are Turther reinarkable for their immense
the revolutions of Italy, had remained substructions, that fill the space between that were used to remove it from the great
for some time suspended in the ropes the two hills on which the duomo and piazza, and was successively lodged fortress stand. A part of them, executed in the lime of Braccio Fortebracci's so
in the palace of the inquisition, in the vereignty, still bear the name of Muri di fortress, and in a dark cellar of the MoBraccio.
naldi palace. This statue, of Danti's The vast public palace, of a fine Go- youth, as the inscription purports: Vinthic, the residence of the delegate and centius Dante, Perusinus, adhuc puber the magistratura (the municipality),
· Parad. xv, 100.
faciebat, is already of marvellous work- lure, the prize of an honourable action manship, for facility, nobleness, vigour, and the memorial of an enlightened conand, like many first works of artists and quest, reached unnoticed the abode of a writers, it is free from those delects that man of worth, where it was destined to sometimes arise from habit, routine, or remain in security from all such violent overweening confidence of talent.
vicissitudes. The piazza Grimara presenls the finest The bolanical garden counts about remains of the Etruscan circuit of the two thousand species. The cabinet of town. The majestic gate Banked with mineralogy was presented by S. Canali, two towers, called the Arch of Augustus, ex-professor of physics and now rector takes that name only from the inscription of the universily. Augusta Perusia, subsequently added The archeological cabinet, created by by ibe Romans.
the generous donations of different in
habitants of Perugia, and proceeding CHAPTER VI.
from excavations made in its territory,
is rich in Etruscan inscriptions, of wbich University.- Professors.- Cabinet ol archeology.
there are now more than eighly; the Etruscao inscriptions. - Quadriga.-Cabinet of
longesi consists of forty-five lines. The medals.-Latin inscriptions. - Academy of Fine rich ornaments and carved figures of the Arts. - Gallery – Pio college. – Library. - Mad Etruscan quadriga, a votive offering, bouse. - Readlug-room.
according to the authoritative opinions
or ss. Vermiglioli and Micali, found in The university of Perugia, the best in 1810 by a peasant of Castel San Mariathe l'apal states after those of Rome and
no, make us regret the absence of the Bologna, is one of the most distinguished other dispersed fragments of this wooden in Italy. Founded in 1320, it received car, and especially ils superb bassonumerous privileges from popes and em relievo of gilt silver restored by M. Milperors, and is indebled to the French lingen, wbich is now in the British Muadministration for its magnificent edi seum. The figures of the fine yellow fice, the old convent of the Olivetans. and red vase with a black bottom repreThe number of students was from tbree sent a Bacchanal on one side, Admetes to four hundred. Some of its professors and Alcestes on the other, offering an are men of extraordinary merit; such expiatory sacrifice 10 Diana, according to are : S. Vermiglioli, a celebrated anti- s. 'Vermiglioli,' but Atalanta and Nequarian, a clever and indefatigable inter-leager, according to the more probable preter of the monuments of his country, opinion of the abbé Zannoni. professor of archeology; S. Mezzanolle, The cabinet of medals is select rather a poet imbued with the ancients, an ex: than numerous. cellent translator and commentator of The walls of the corridors of the UniPindar, of Greek; the amiable marquis versity, particularly on the second floor, A ntinori, an elegant and gracesul poet, are incrusted with a fine series of Lalin of Italian literature; Doctor Bruschi, a inscriptions. bolanist and good physician, of materia The Academy of Fine Arts, in the medica ; S. Martini, a learned experi- same building as the University, has mental philosopher, of physics. The some good paintings by masters of PeFrench adininistration likewise extended rugia arranged chronologically, chirlly the course of instruction at this univer- | proceeding from suppressed churches. sity. A member of the Consulta of One of Perugino's receipts for the price Rome, M. de Gérando, who had contri- of a painting is there exposed in a glazed buted to this amelioration, received two frame. years after a touching and disinterested Among the private galleries we may ioken of gratilude from the inhabitants distinguish that of Baron della Penna. of Perugia; they sent him a line painting which has a masterpiece of Perugino; by Perugino, now a: Paris. While the the gallery of the marquis Monaldi, conmonuments seized by victory were taken laining a great Neptune on a marine from our squares and palaces, this pic- car, ordered of Guido by Cardinal Mo.
I see the learned description that he has given Perugia la 1831, ou the marriage of the marquis of it, which, in accordance with a singular and Ghino Braccescut with the countess Aurelia No pot uolrequent Hallan custom, was published at niconl.
naldi, legale at Bologna, and a sketch of rary of the Holy Land and Mount the same painting by the artist; the gal- Sinai, in Italian, by Gabriele Capodilery of the Staffa palace, proud of its lista, of an ancient family of Padua, admirable and most authentic Virgin wbose chivalrous French molto (Leal by Raphael, for the original treaty be- desir). we have already quoted, though tween the artist and a Count Staffa long without date or imprint, must appaexisted in the archives of that family, rently be one of the good editions of Pebut is now lost; lastly the Oddi museum, rugia in the fifteenth century. formerly celebrated, but at present greal Besides all the various establishments ly reduced, which boasts no longer ils peculiar to Italy, such as its music school, famous Deposition from the Cross, now its two philo-dramatic academies, ils two at Rome; this ivory group, with ils nu theatres, its society de' filedoni (a society merous figures, is a noble, expressive, of amateurs of the arts that holds public and natural work, in fact, among the best sittings), and even its new and well-conof that kind; but ihere is not the slightest ducted madhouse, Perugia possesses a reason to ascribe it to Michael Angelo, reading-room which receives the different any more than a multitude of other foreign Reviews, and bears testimony to sculptures in ivory, wbich, had he exe the liberal spirit of the principal inbabi-cuted them all, would have left him no tants. leisure for anything else.
CHAPTER VII. The Pio college, which takes its name from the protection accorded to it by
Tower of Son Manno.- Borders of the Lake.-EmisPope Pius VII., is managed in a new and
sario.-Island.-Piere. - Palace.-Frescos of i'erusuperior manner by the worthy professor
gino.- Montecorona.-Todi. Colizzi, who is equally distinguished as a professor of public law, a mathema At the hamlet of San Manno, one lician, and a chemist. S. Colizzi makes mile from Perugia, is the celebrated the study of the ancient languages, which | Elruscan tomb, called the temple of San he has simplified, proceed simultaneously Manno, which was used as a cellar until with that of the sciences; and his fine cleared out by direction of Professor Coestablishment, wbich has sixty, pupils, lizzi, a monument remarkable for its would have more, is the place permitted. | arched roof composed of huge square
The library of Perugia, confided to stones. The inscription of three large the enlightened management of S. Ca- lines, surnamed by Massei the queen of pali, has about thirty thousand volumes; inscriptions, and which perhaps was so it possesses a fine collection of the fil- in his day, is still one of the linest and teenth century and some curious manu- longest known Tuscan inscriptions. scripts. The most remarkable of the
The aspect of the country bordering on latter is the Stephen of Byzantium, the lake of Perugia, the ancient Trasireckoned one of the best of this Greek
menus, perfectly explains the battle degrammarian of the end of the fifth cen
scribed by Polybius and Livy, "an iury. The miniatures of a St. Augustine action," proudly remarks the latter hisof ihe thirleenth century, representing torian, "ihat was one of the few deseats the Redeemer with several saints and of the Roman people;" Hæc est nobilis the Beginning of Genesis, resemble the ad Trasimenum pugna, atque inter Greek style in their angular and thick paucas memorata populi Romani cla. folds, and prove that it was already prac-des. It is easily seen that the consul lised in Umbria. The Opinions of Be- Flaminius had a confined and bad renedetto Capra, a Perugian jurisconsult, treat along the lake, and one almost of the year 1476, without printer's name, expects to see the Numidian cavalry rush was the first book printed at Perugia. from the mountains to intercept him. The Funeral oration of the young Gri- The superstitious recollection of this fone Baglione, assassinated when 22
disaster produced, lo parody the Latin years old in 1477, with what motive does historian, one of the frequent discomfiriot appear, by the lieutenant of the lord tures of the pope's soldiers, who were of Sasso Ferrato, a discourse by the Pe- beaten on thai very spot by the army of rugian scholar Maluranzio, who delivered Lorenzo de' Medici. it over the young victim's grave, is of the same year as his death. The Itine
Sve unte, book vi!. ch. lil.
The emissario that Iraverses the moun- | who have contemplated the locality, and tain del Lago and maintains the level of especially the calm, pure, and pious the lake, is a repaired Etruscan structure, souls that inbabit it. and one of the most magnificent works Todi, a little town near the Tiber, of Braccio's reign.
founded by the Etruscans, ever menaced The waters of the lake of Perugia and injured by the falling of the hill on are azure and limpid. On the Isola which it stands, was formerly powerful, Maggiore, one of the pretty isles in the martial, and rich, as the numerous coins lake, is a convent of Observantines, still remaining prove. Though out of whence the prospect is superb.
the way and not easily approached, esAt the città della Pieve, a small town pecially in wet weather, it deserves a twenty miles from Perugia, near the visit for its strong antique walls of long lake, is the almost royal palace built by square stones, with phalli: for the ruins Galeaso Alessi for the duke della Corgna. of its singular edifice, the subject of so
The città della Pieve, Perugino's much archeological disputation, supbirth-place, is also remarkable for its posed by some persons part of a forum chapel called the Chiesarella, which and temple of Mars, or rather of a bacontains the fresco of the Nativity, one silic of the earlier emperors, and also for of his most delicious works. The bouse the good architecture of most of its in which the artist was born still existed churches. The principal one, the fine in 1828, opposite this chapel, but it was church of the Madonna, an assemblage of barbarously pulled down by S. T******, cupolas cleverly grouped, is one of Brain the following year, lo make some ad- mante's chefs-d'æuyre. dition to his habitation. On the road, at a nunnery in the village of Panicale,
CHAPTER VIII. are some other less remarkable frescos by Perugino. He seems to have covered
Cortona.- Walls.-Pretorio palace.--Etruscan Acathe country with his paintings, which
demy.- Library. – Museum. - Grotto of Pythaare too often misprized and disfigured
goras. -- Cathedral. -Sarcophagus of Flaminius, by clownish ignorance.
Last grand-master of Malta.--Gesu.-Saini MarThe Camaldulite convent of Monic- garet. - Conventuals. - Saint Dominick, - Saint corona, twelve miles north of Perugia, Augustine. ---Santa Maria degli Grazie.--Cblust.seated on the summit of the mount most
Collections.- Cathedral.-Circus. justly called Belvedere, and surrounded by a superb forest of firs planted by Cortona, one of the most ancient cities those laborious solitaries in the sayage in Italy, on a high mountain, like the desert which they have brought into other Etruscan lowns, is admirably sicultivation,-This splendid monastery is luated. The population is a liltle above at the same time one of the most reli- five thousand. Its gigantic cyclopcan gious and holy. These reformed Ca- walls, of oblong and square stones, hold maldulites of the order of Saint Romuald, logether without morlar, like all similar are both cenobites and bermits : each constructions. The circuit of the present has a little bog:e to bimself and a garden lowd is exactly the same as the ancient, w bich he cultivates, and they do not as- and the modern gales seem to stand in semble or eat together in the refectory the ancient places. more than once or twice a year, besides The Prelorio palace is the seat of the on the festival of their founder. These | Etruscan academy, founded in 1726 by coinpassionate monks succour the moun- the illustrious antiquarian, Ridollino taineers their neighbours, and give a Venuti, or Cortona. Its president, called cordial welcome to travellers in their Lucumo, the ancient title of the elective bouse at the foot of the mountain. One and absolute chief of the peoples of Is sometimes startled on finding. under Etruria, whom the Latin historians bothe great white robe and the humble con- nour with the title of king. may be dition of these anchorets, the bearing, chosen among foreigners; but he must language, and manners of high life; have a representative at Cortona, called for among them are men who were vice-lucuino. This acadeiny has not once of importance in the world, and gone further iban ils ten quarto 10even a Prussian general of great ability. | lumes of Memoirs, and it does not seem Such conversions do not surprise those | 10 have participated in the impulse given
in our days to the study of Tuscan an scribed by Vasari; it is unfinished, doubt. tiquities.
less owing to his relish for jollity and The rich library, confided to the ma frolic. nagement of S. Ponbucci, possesses the The majestic church of Saint Marmutilated manuscript of the Notti Co-garet and its monastery surrounded with ritane, in twelve folio volumes, a pre- cypress occupy the suinmit of the mouncious collection of conversations on tain of Cortona. The view is enchaniarcheology by the learned lords of Cor- ing. On the road are some wrecks of tona. A manuscript of Danle is re Roman thermæ frequently given for a markable for the beauty of its characters temple of Bacchus. The church is by Niand miniatures.
colao and Giovanni Pisano, whose names The small museum is principally re are on the steeple. An old fresco, full markable for its Etruscan antiquitics. of expression, represents the tender MarThe figure of most iinportance for my-garet, a simple villager of the environs thology and the bistory of art is the of Cortona, discovering under a heap of bronze reckoned by some a Victory, by stones the body of a man whom she others a Venus, and also the Moon. loved. The tomb of this amiable saint,
An antique tomb or Etruscan build-whose penitence was afterwards so ausjog, remarkable for the construction of lere, is of the thirteenth century. A ils roof and the large stones joined crown of gold ornamented with precious without cement, has been strangely stones and the silver front of the lomb named the Grotto of Pythagoras, the were given by Pietro of Corlona, when inhabitants of Cortona having from va he received letters of nobility from his nily transposed the Rof their lown, country, and ibelalter is said to have been notwithstanding the crime of the Cro- sculplured from his designs. The Si. loniates, who burnt alive the most Catherine is by Baroccio; the Virgin, humane philosopher of antiquily, be- St. Blase, St. John Baptist, St. Elizacause he advised them to be tolerant. beth of Hungary, by Empolt; a Con
The cathedral, of the lenth or eleventh ceplion with st. Louis of Toulouse, century, was restored internally at the St. Francis, St. Dominick, St. Marbeginning of the last century by the garet, by the elder Vanni. Florentine arcbitect Galilei. The fine The convent of the Minor Conventuals basso-relievo of the pretended sarco of Saint Francis, of the close of the thirphagus of Flaminius, representing the teenth century, has the best painting of Combat of the Centaurs and the La-Cortona, Cigoli's Miracle of St. Anthopithæ, or a Triumph of Bacchus, seems ny's mule, which converted a heretic. to belong to the Roman period of anti The convent of Saint Dominick is anque art, perhaps the times of the Anto- terior to 1258. A graceful Assumption nini. The best paintings are by Luca Sig. is allributed lo Pietro da Panicale, of norelli, a native of Cortona, which lown Perugia. Fra Angelico is the reputed painpossesses pictures in his three manners; ter of the picture in the antique style in his works are: a Deposition from the the choir, with an inscription of 1410, Cross and a graceful Communion of the purporting that it was given by Cosmo Apostles, in which the figure of Christ and Lorenzo de' Medici to the friars of scems worthy of the Carracci for colour- | Saint Dominick, lo pray for their souls ing. This cathedral contains the tomb and those of their fathers. A Virgin of ihe last grand-master of Malta, Giam- | surrounded with Saints, much dabattista Tommasi, named by Pius VII. maged, is by this exquisite painter; the in 1803 and deceased in 1805, an obs- Assumption with si. Hyacinth, by the cure successor of l'Isle-Adam and La Va- younger Palma. lette.
The convent of Augustines is one of The Gesù has a delightful Annuncia- the oldest in the town. In the church tion by Fra Angelico; a Nativity, a are: the Virgin, St. John Baptist, St. Conception, an Eternal Father, by James, St. Stephen, and St. Francis
, & Luca Signorelli : this last painting is in a work in Titian's style, one of the most triangular form, and of his first manner. extolled and most extraordinary of Pietro The Virgin on a throne with St. Roch of Cortona; lhe Virgin, St. John Bapand St. Ubald, is by Jacone, the chief of tist and se. Anthony the Abbot, by those coarse Epicurean Florentines de- | Empoli.