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veil.

by Nicolao Vallelta, which has since of Giovanni of Nola, and are the last been effaced as too Epicurean:

good sculptures executed at Naples.

There are also other works attributed to Amici, alliegre magnammo e bevimmo

this artist of a talent so sweet and graceFin che u' ci stace voglio a la lucerna :

ful, who touched on the period of deChi sa s a l'autro mundo n' ci vedimmo?

cline, but remained unaffected thereby, Chi so s' a l'aulro muono n' c' è taverna?'

and seems the Domenichino of sculpThe Annunziata, of the architecture Bonifazio and of Giambattista Cicara,

Lure--namely, the tombs of young Andrea of Vanvitelli, one of the fine churches though the former appears by Pedro of Naples, has several good works by

della Plala. In the cloister, is still addifferent Neapolitan masters : frescos mired, after four centuries, the vast by Corenzio, on the roof of the sacristy fresco of Zingaro, his most famous work, and the treasury; the Life of Jesus which represents with infinite variety Christ, sculptured in wood on the cup- the Life of St. Benedict. The refecboards, by Giovanni of Nola; the statue tory and the chapter offer olber good on the tomb of Alfonso Sancio, by Auria ; frescos by Corenzio : a Miracle of the a Descent from the cross, in demi-| loaves and fishes, which contains as relievo, by Giovanni of Nola, or Santa Croce, Before the high altar is the

many as one hundred and seventeen humble tomb of the second queen Gio- personages, was finished in forty days.

some of the ornaments have been cut off her mantle of gold bro

CHAPTER XII. cade.

The repaired church of Saint Peter Monastery of San Gregorio Armeno.-Taking tbe ad aram is reckoned the most ancient in Naples. A basso-relievo, representing a Descent from the cross, and a St. I had the honour to be invited in 1836 Michael, are by Giovanni of Nola. to witness the laking of the veil by Si

The small church of the Bank of the gnora Teresa B*********, daughter of the lwo Sicilies has an Assumption, the prince of R******, which was to be perchef-d'ouvre of Jppolito Borghese, a formed at the convent of San Gregorio Neapolitan painter of the seventeenth armeno. This ancient nunnery of Becentury, which deserves notice.

nedictines, which, it is pretended, dales Saint Severin, a fine church by Mor- from Saint Helena, Constantine's momandi, a clever Neapolitan architect of ther, formerly exacted such proofs of the sixteenth century, is remarkable for nobility, that Queen Caroline of Austria, many of its paintings and its sculptures who visited it with one of her daughters, especially. The ceilings of the choir of is reported to have told her jestingly the cross-aisle are some of the best works that she could not obtain admission if of the cruel Corenzio, who died in his she wished to do so. A strange instieighty-fifth year, through falling from a tution for a religion of which equality is scaffold when about to retouch them, a the principle and spirit! The brilliant just but long-delayed chastisement for church, ornamented with paintings by his misdeeds. The Buptism of the Spagnoletto and Giordano, assembled Redeemer is by Perugino;

the fine paint- the highest society of Naples; ladies ing of the chapel of the Holy Family. bedecked with diamonds, and many by Joseph Marullo; the three lombs of men in uniform or costume; the music the broihers Jacopo, Ascanio, and Sigis- consisted of airs from Rossini and we mundo Sanseverino, poisoned by ihe opera of the Last day of Pompeii. Here wise of their uncle Geronimo, that she for the first time I heard the sonorous Inight possess their rich inheritance, con voice of a soprano, which, not withstandtributed to extend the deserved renowning its melody, gave me disagreeable

I "Friends, let us Joyously eat and driak wbile there is oil in the lamp; who knows that we sball meet in another world? Who knows that we shall find a lavero there?" Valletta, who died at Naples at the close of last century, is the autbor of a witty little work cotiled Cicalata sul fascino,

volgarmente detto Jettatura, in whicb be attempts
to prove that tbe power of bewitching by words
or a look, a general belief at Naples, is a realiis,
and known from the remotest antiquity.

. See anle, cb. vii.

sensations. The young nun was not flowers in her hair, long gilt chains, and yet in the place reserved for her in the several rows of large pearls around her choir : the three days previous to her neck and falling over her vest of amataking the veil, she mixes with the ranth silk sprigged with gold. When world ; tbe family diamonds are lent to the nun appeared at the grating, the arch. her, and that morning she was gone to bishop addressed her in a cold, formal bid adieu to the nuns of several convents speech, and put on the veil, inviting where she had relations or friends. She her to perseverance; for this proceeding arrived splendidly dressed during the was only preliminary, as there is a celebration of mass; two ladies accom- year's noviciate. The ceremony being panied ber, and the band of a regiment concluded, we went to the convent gate, of the guard, placed in the vestibule, to which the nud came again, and reannounced her entrance by fourishes. mained a long time receiving the adieus, ller bebaviour was perfectly simple and the felicitations, the embraces of ber natural; it was evident there was no friends and kindred; but there were no victim there, and that the cruel expres scenes on either side; on the contrary son of Mélanie :

all was good-humour and gaiety. This

Italian taking the habit was very diffeda ne meort point, ma Alle, et l'on fait son devoir, rent from the description of René : there

was no appearance of melancholy or exhad never been pronounced. After the cited feelings, and refreshments, sweetmass she knelt before the archbishop, meals, and sonnets' were profusely diswbo officiated, and he uttered several tributed among the persons invited. prayers to which his clergy and the nuo responded. She afterwards went out,

CHAPTER XIII. holding a small cross in one hand and a laper in the other, and entered the con Posillpo. - Grotto. --- Virgil's tomb.- Mergellina.vent, where the nuos were in attendance;

Fishers.-Palace of Donn' Anna. lbey received her at the door, and embraced her, and she there changed her The melancholy grotto of Posilipo, a dress. Jo the mean time the persons les gloomy, vaulted, ill-lighted road, seems in the church had quitted their places, placed ihere to render the vivid briland gone into the choir, to approach the liancy of the light at Naples more sengrate which led into the convent, and sible. This celebrated aud far loo much Dear to wbich the new nun was lo re admired grollo, for the mountain is of tard to receive the veil from the hands tufo, and not rock, is well described by of the archbishop through a kind of Seneca, a peevish painter well suited for turning box. The two sides of this the picture, when he calls it a long prison, grating then presented a striking con an obscure corridor, and disserts thereon irast: there, the austerity, the solitude, respecting the involuntary force of our and the silence of the cloister; here, the impressions, a frivolity of people of the world, talking, Close by are the remains of a Columlooking, pressing each other impatiently, barium, called the tomb of Virgil, a and the hubbub of persons waiting for Lolerably picturesque ruin, mixed with something; it was a real rout by the verdure, and surmounted by a holm-oak, light of Lapers, and on the steps of the the roots of which descend into the eleallar. The only collected person in the vated part of ibe rock adjoining. Despite midst of ibis turnult, was a poor girl of the uncertainty attached to the monuAversa, who was to be chamber-maid ment, it still appears venerable from the lo Sigoora B. in the convent, and for multitude of great men who have visited that purpose she was about to be obscure- it; it is like a perpetual testimony of the ly made a nun. She had the pictu- homage offered to the memory and name tesque costume of her country, natural alone of the poet. Pelrarch was con

Testo bas composed some very fine sonnels on *** eationi (laking ibe babit). Rime, part ui, 4.22.6. Every body knows Mopti's sonnet, Fuggta Licari ai chiostro, whicb ends with this bold pas

Sorrise acerbo ia donzella forte,

Chiuse le sacre porte, e con disprezzo

Ne consegnò le cbiavi in mano a borte. · Nibil Illo carcere longlus, nibil aliis faucibus obscurius. Epist. 57.

ducied thither by King Robert; he planted Pollio, in wbich the old murænæ were there the celebrated Jaurelrenewed in kept that used to be sed with the fesh of our days by M. Casimir Delavigne ; and slaves condemned to death for negligent it was at ibe sight of the same monument service. One day the master, wishing to That Boccaccio felt the passion for letters treat Augustus, his guest, with the sight predominale, and decided on renouncing of the execution of a man condemned to commerce for ever.

ibis punisbment for breaking a glass, the After descending the smiling hill of emperor ordered all the cristals of the Posilipo, sbaded and decorated by fes- villa to be thrown into the water instead toons of vines and the graceful, umbel of the slave, a plebeian act of clemency, liferous pine, we reach the shore of the a very faint lesson given to the barbaroas Mergellina, a charming spol, so happily sensuality of this Pollio, the son of a sheltered that it only loses its foliage one freed-man who had become eminent, month in the year; and which Sannazzaro, who must not be confounded, as is somewho dwelt there, has sung and regrelted times the case, with the illustrious orator, so feelingly:

poet, and consul, Asinius Pollio, who

was the first lo establish a public library Mergillina, vale, postri memor; et mea flentis at Rome, also a friend of Augustus, and

Serta cape, heu l domini munera avara lui. immortalised by the admirable eglogue Maternæ salvete omhræ, salvete paternæ;

of Virgil bearing his name.
Accipite et restris thurea dona focis.
Neve nega optatos, virgo sebetbias, amnes;

CHAPTER XIV.
Absentique luas det mibi somuus aquas,
Det fesso æstivas umbras sopor; et levis aura

Fluminaque ipsa suo lene sopent strepitu : Capo di Monte.-Bridge.—Palace. - Chinese.- Obser-
Eriliom nam spoole sequor. Fors Ipsa favebil : valory.- Catacombs. - Seraglie - Botanical gar-

Fortibus hæc solita est sæpe et adesse viris. den. - Instituto del Miracolo.- French education
Et mihi sunt comites musæ, sunt numina vatum; of tbe Italian females.-Pouli Rossi.

Et mens læta suis gaudet ab auspiciis,
Blanditurque animo constans sententia, quamvis Capo di Monte, although situated at
Exilii meritum sit satis ipsa ides.

the gate of Naples, and a royal residence,

was formerly almost inaccessible; the The fishermen of the Mergellina, re-bridge built by the French which now markable for the beauty of their antique connects the iwo bills is one of those sbapes, are also interesting on account great and useful works wbich honour of ibeir laborious, peaceful life, their iheir transient occupation, as the works domestic existence, their well-gollen of the Romans signalised their domiwealth : they seem the virtuous Troglo- | nation. The same analogy exists between dytes of the Neapolitan people. It is not these two nations in this respect, as in surprising that they inspired Sannazzaro, the glory of their arms. who had them before his eyes, with his The palace of Capo di Monte, badly piscatoria! Eglogues (piscatoriæ), a new built at first and left unfinished, has little choice of characters blamed by Fontenelle magnificence, and since its superb muas inferior to the ancient shepherds“who seum bas been removed to the Stodj, it were in possession of the eglogue.", has few attractions save the purity of the It is true that “the Norman Fontenelle, air, the view, its woods, and the chase. in tbe middle of Paris," could bave but The Chinese college of Capo di Monte, an imperfect idea of such fishermen and the only one in Europe, was founded in of the Mergellina.

1726 by D. Matteo Ripa, a Neapolitan The ruins, the grotto of the palace of missionary, on his relurn from China, Donn'Anna, improperly called the palace where bis talents as a painter had oblained of Queen Giovauna, a vast edifice left him the favour of the emperor and the unfinished, and not begun till the end of court. The funds are supplied in part the sixteenth century-all these verdure- by the establishment, the revenue of crowned wrecks washed by the waves which amounts to 6000 ducats, and partly are very picturesque.

by the Propaganda of Rome. The pupils On the pleasant promontory of Posilipo, are sent from China at the age of thirteen may still be seen the famous cisterns and or fourteen years, and they relurn as fishponds of the immense villa of Vadius missionaries in their maturity. Forty bare Nažeistis dusas, cessation of sorrow.

· Discours sur la nature de l'églogue.

7

already been educated in this house; their a grand conception; it is at once a school, portraits may be seen there, with in a workshop, and a hospital. Perhaps scriptions giving their names, date of the combination of these different estabbirth, their province, the time of their lishments is an obstacle to good managearrival at Naples, of their departure for ment. Neither does the military disciChina, and of iheir death, when thelaller pline followed in the Seraglio to restrain is known, as well as the persecutions or its vagabond and numerous inmates, seem martyrdom that several have suffered. very likely to effect, by its absolute reThis interesting seminary might aid the gulations, their moral and intellectual study of a people and a literature suc improvement. The officers also appear cessfully cultivated in our day, if the too subaltern and too little above the pupils were taken at a more advanced people they are charged to superintend. age, and were beller educated before A deaf and dumb school on the system of leaving Macao; but it seems on the the abbé de l'Épée, is dependant on the decline, there being only six Chinese at Albergo. But the instructor must have present. The little museum is composed less to do than in any other country: of Chinese curiosities, such as porcelain, grimaces are the mother tongue of the silk robes, paintings, etc., and a large Neapolitan, and with bim, may very map of the Celestial Empire.

well aid or even supply the language of On the charming hill of Misadois, the signs. ifthe vocabulary of these grimaces highest point of Capo di Monte, stands were published, every body would be the Observatory, an elegant and solid surprised to see what they express, and structure by S. Stefano Gasse. Astro- with a rapidity, a precision, if one may nomy has been studied at Naples for many so say, that speech cannot attain. À centuries, from the monks of the eleventh foreigner asked a man of the lower and twelfth centuries, Pandolfo and Pietro orders where he might find a casino Diacono, and Flavio Gioja, the inventor situated on the top of Capo di Monte; of the compass, to Fontana, in the the Neapolitan made no other answer seventeenth century; to Cassella, whose than by raising his lower lip; he repeated premature death occurred in 1808, in this grimace, which was really very inconsequence of saligue from watching the telligible, until the stranger, provoked at path of the comet of 1807; to Federico his silence, at last observed ii. Zuccari, of the family of the two cele The Botanical garden, created in 1818 brated painters, and to the illustrious in an advantageous position, and confided P. Piazzi, who died a few years since, to the judicious management of S. Tewhiledirector-general ofthe observatories nore, offers an agreeable promenade : of the kingdom, having previously been the number of species is already ten director of the one at Palermo. We are thousand, among which there are many odebted torbe P. Piazzi for the discovery that our northern gardens could not of the planet Ceres. He had resused to preserve. be made a cardinal. Another instance The Instituto del Miracolo, founded by of modesty and good taste heightens his Queen Caroline Murat, in the old conglory still further : having been informed vent or that name, on the plan of the that a gold cedal was about to be struck house of education' at Saint Denis, has in his honour, Piazzi requested that the oblained the approbation of the most Walue might be devoted to the purchase severe and experienced judges. The of instruments for his observatory.

French governess was justly maintained The catacombs of Saint Januarius, less in her office, and she has since been lamous than those of Rome, appeared to invited to Madrid by Queen Christina, a me very superior in their kind. The princess of Naples, who has placed her antique tombs, the Greek inscriptions at the head of a similar establishment. discovered there prove the ancient civi- The houses of this kind at Milan and lisation of that country ; but these palaces Florence were also superintended by

The Salesian Jadjes of men, and the unencumbered space is Venice are emigrant French nuns. Our already of far less extent than in the days influence in Italy, though interrupted by

political measures, is still visible in the The Seraglio or Reale Albergo, a vast inanners and customs. The grace and poor-bouse, founded by Charles IIl., was judgment of French women engrased

of Mabillon,

on Italian imagination amalgamate well, , there at night with his soldiers ; on the and have already produced more than morrow he was very ill, and his men one amiable model.

too, many of whom died. The grotto of Farther on is the fine avenue leading to Lautrec is still shown, where he was the old Champ de Mars created by the obscurely interred in 1528, until the duke French, which was a suitable adjunct for of Sessa, having discovered bis corpse, a great and frequently agitaled capital, erected to him the noble mausoleum ia but it has unfortunately been reduced, the church of Santa Maria la Nova. : under the pretext of restoring the land to Between the hills of Capo di Monte and cultivation, as if that were scarce in such Capo di Chino is a secluded valley, in a country.

which, on a rising ground and amidst On this side is the bill of Santa | pines, stands the picturesque convent of Maria del Pianto, called also the Mount Santa Maria de' Monti, with its oriental of Lautrec, because that general once dome. But the principal ornament of encamped there. Historians state that this vale is the wreck of the superb our army perished from privations, ex- aqueduct reddened by lime, and called cessive heat and the plague, without from its colour Ponti rossi (red bridges). mentioning the exhalations of the soil, a work of Augustus, which carried ibe which perhaps contributed more to its waters of the Lebeto to the port of Midestruction, if we may judge by a con senum, a distance of thirty-five miles temporary fact. The French soldier who froni Naples ; though shattered by earthoccupied the throne of Naples, a brave quakes, crowded, overtopped, enveloped compatriot of Lautrec, and greatly re- by vegetation, and its arcades are the sembling him,' after reviewing his troops resort of the goalherd and his flock, it on ibis side, was so charmed with the still attests the power of the imperial situation, that be determined to encamp | people,

BOOK THE FOURTEENTH.

ENVIRONS.-ROAD TO ROME.

CHAPTER I.

one of the finest views in the world,

commanding the gulls of Naples and Vomero.-Camaldulites.- Lake d’Agpano.-Grotta Pozzuoli, with their islands, the extinct

del Cane.- Solfatara.- Pozzuoll.- Catbedral. - craters of the Solfatara and Astrumi, the Temple of Serapis.--Port.--Amphitheatre.-Tombs.

lake of Agnano, Cape Misenum, the castle -Cicero's Villa.-Lakes Lucrious and Avernus.

of Baiæ and the boundless sea. There is Temples of Venus, Mercury, Diana.-Nero's Baths.

no place more suitable for a contem-Piscina Mirabile.-Cento Camerelle.-Cumæ.Balæ.- Baull.- Agrippina's sepulchre.-Coast of plative life, and the monks, with their Misenum.--Grotta della Dragonaria.

long beards, their gowns and hoods of

white woollen, are themselves pictuThe Vomero, over which the road to resque. It is true that they seem to have the Camaldulite convent passes, seems to little suspicion of it, and the traveller, be the crater of an ancient volcano in struck with what is poetical in their which arise several small hills covered institution, is sometimes grievously diswith the strongest, most varied, and appointed on convcrsing with ihem. confused vegelation, presenting a singular | The church has a few good paintings, and enchanting aspect. The convent has among them a Last Supper, by Slan

I "Lautrec," says Brauiome, “étoit brave, bardi, frapper comme sourd; mais pour gouverner un valllant, et excellent pour combattre en guerre et elat Il n'y étoit bou."

* See ante, ch. ii.

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