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the chief of a civilised people to make | sixteenth century, Pellegrini, surnamed conquests in the North, a solitary fact in the Reformed Michael Angelo by the the history of distant expeditions. The Carracci, and the exterior by Count Be wars of Charlemagne had at least the nedelio Alfieri Bianco, the first architect pretext of converting the Saxons to Chris- of Piedmont. The silver tomb of the iianity, or rather he yielded to the grand blessed Amadeus of Savoy, given by king necessity for repressing in person the in- Charles Felis in 1823, is from the design cessant inroads of the barbarians. “He of a clever artist of Turin, S. Sevesi. bad no wish," says Mézeray, " to possess The choir, in sculplured wood. of the the ice and rocks of the North."

year 1822 and by Ranza, an architect of One must go back to the epoch of the Vercelli, is an ingenious construction great Roman captain to enliven this dull which holds together without a single and tedious road from Turin to Milan, nail and can be taken down in a day; a which, on this side, does not present the precautionary measure of the canons, as imposing and majestic aspect of the the first choir was burnt by the French Alps.

who were lodged in the church in 1798. Vercelli has some delightful walks and I saw in the treasury the celebrated book a few palaces. The ancient castle or ducaloftheGospels said to be copied by the hand palace, where the blessed Amadeus III. of Eusebius, the first bishop of Vercelli ja died, is converted into barracks. At the the fourth century, and which Lalande Tizzoni palace, now Casa Mariano, the gives for the autograph of Saint Mark, property of a Jew merchant, is a superb although it is a Latin version, and the fresco by Bernardino Lanino, a great Mi-apostles wrote only in Greek and Hebrew. lanese artist of the sixteenth century, re- This manuscript, formerly sealed with presenting the Assembly of the gods, in the bishop's seal and never opened but by the style of the Farnesine fresco, a bril- | his permission, the covering of which it liant decoration of an antique hall now was only permitted to kiss kneeling, was turned into a granary.

shown to me without ceremony by one The vast church of Saint Andrew, of the choristers : it is in very bad consurmounted with four steeples, of a fine dition, and I think one may venture to demi-gothic architecture, built in 1219 wish it a more attentive librarian. I by Cardinal Guala de Bicchieri, legale also remarked an autograph letter of in England the year before, has been as- Saint Francis de Sales to the duke of certained to be from the same design as Savoy, dated from Annecy, the 17th Fea church at Winchester, the plan of bruary 1615, on the canonisation of which, probably, Bicchieri brought away Amadeus III.; it is elegantly written, with him, as well as the 12,000 marks of and would deserve a place in ihe edition silver, a sort of booty with which history of the complete works of this amiable reproaches him. This church has been and kind hearted saiat. recently restored in its primitive style at Saint Mary Major, called the Mathe expense of an association of pious donna grande, a church of the last cenpersons. On the curious mausoleum of tury, has replaced the ancient church of Thomas Gallo, first abbot of the monas- | the time of Constantine, which was a tery of Saint Andrew, who died in remarkable monument; the remains of 1246, a fresco of that day, the oldest pic. | ils portal, presenting a very curious asture of Vercelli, and one of the most in- | tronomical basso-relievo, are preserved teresting in Italy for the history of the in the gardens of the Gattinara palace. infancy of the art, represents him in his Saint Christopher, the ancient church theological chair; among his six scholars of the Umiliati, is recommended by the is Saint Anthony of Padua, distinguished paintings of Gaudenzio Ferrari, a distinby a glory; at the bottom of the mauso- guished assistant of Raphael, and chief leum a contemporary basso-relievo in of the Milanese school. The frescos, stone shows Gallo kneeling before the some of which have been retouched a Virgin and Infant Jesus, while his pro- few years since by an incompetent hand, tector, Saint Denysthe Areopagite, stand representing divers subjects of the Life ing, affectionately lays bis hand on Gallo's of Jesus-Christ and Saint Mary Maghead.

dalene, a large and pleasing composition, The interior of the majestic Duomo remarkable for the beauty of the heads is by the great Bolognese architect of the and the graceful expression of the little

angels, are perhaps the most excellent it has some rich and beautiful churches. work of this artist. The best preserved The noble and elegant baptistry, once is the Adoration of the Magi. The a columbarium. ' belongs to the best fresco of the Martyrdom of saint Ca- days of Roman architecture. therine, considerably damaged, contains The antique portico of the Duomo, a the portraits of Gaudenzio Ferrari, of his kind of lapidarian museum, presents a master Jeronimo Giovannone, and of his curious collection of votive allars, inablest pupil Bernardino Lanino, of Ver- scriptions, and funereal urns. The cells. These paintings, which were or- church is old and ugly, but has several dered in 1532 by Fra Angelo de Corradi, paintings very remarkable; in the chapel recall a noble action of the young marquis of Saint Benedict, the Christ, saint Gaude Leganez, a Spanish general, who died | denzio, saint Benedict, and the Magin 1711, in enle at Paris, asier baving dalene at the foot of the Cross, the beads been imprisoned as an Austrian at Vin- of which, supposed by Gauilenzio Ferrari, crnoes. When he besieged and took are exquisite : in the chapel of Saint Vercelli in 1638, be forbade his bom- | Joseph, ihe Sibyls, the Eternal Father, berdiers to fire on the church of Saint and the other poetic and sublime frescos, Christopher, lest the masterpiece of unfortunately damaged, by Bernardino Ferrari shald be injured, an act almost Lanino ; on the cupola the elaborate unknown, but which equals that of De- frescos of Giuseppe Monialio ; in the menius Phalereus protecting the painter chapel of the Three Magi, a Nativity, by Proligenes and making war on the Rho. an unknown author. wbich has been dians and not on the fine arts.

deemed worthy to be attributed to Titian, Alibe chareb of Saint Julian, a pathetic Corregio, or Paris Bordone ; in the saPassion of Jesus Christ, by Bernardino cristy, the imposing and graceful MarLabido, miebt well be attributed 10 Gau- riage of saint Catherine, by Gaudenzio denzo Ferrari, if the author had not Ferrari ; a Last Supper, varied, by apped his name.

Cæsar da Sesto, the best pupil of Leonardo I be church of Saint Paul has the paint. di Vinci, the friend of Raphael, who deIng of the Madonna delle Grazie, for licately said to bim :-“ Is it not strange, the raising of the s ege of Vercelli in 1553 that with a friendship like ours we reciby thr French troops, under the command procally show each oiher so little regard olibe duke of Brissac; it is one of the in painting, and contend so much one bers and largest of Lapino's paintings. against the other?"

The library of Vercelli, the Agnesi- Among the documents of the capituana, cotains twelve thousand volumes. lary archives, are some of the oldest in

The archives, long pegiected, though Italy: the Life of St. Gaudenzio and containing diplomas and documents to other Saints of Novara, written in 700, as far back as the eighth century, have and the petition addressed in 730 by been recently confided to the enlightened Rodoaldo di Gapsingo to the bishop Gramanagement of a distinguished Pied. zioso to obtain the consecration of an montes, professor Baggiolini, who had altar erected by this Rodoaldo 10 Saint earned his livelihood as a schoolmaster, Michael. A precious consular diptych, one of those talented italians, as I myself of ivory, gives the names of some ancient bave witnessed, whom adverse foriune bishops, and basthis singular inscription : preveals from gaining celebrity.

- Ajraldus sublevita indignus domui

precepto Arnaldi sine manibus fecit oc CHAPTER XII.

opus.

The library of the seminary, public Seura - Duomo - Captiulary Archives - Library. three days a week, has about twelve - stor Denis.-Saint Mark Salot Peter – Fra Dukino.- Salot Gaudenzio. Thousand volumes. Among the edi

lions of the fileenth century may be re.

marked the Dictionarium alphabetico Novara is an old dirty Spanish town, but ordine of fra Nestor Deuis, a scholar of

This name is derived from the resemblance of The columbarium contained the remains of a great de lure pizcona take their posts, whether number of bodies in a small space; it was not

*** dorernes to the little niches lotended lyhled, except by the lamps used during the funeral y los tons is bold the urus of tbe sa me family. I ceremonies.

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Novara, the first author of a dictionary, once vigorous, correct, and graceful. less known than Calepino who succeeded | The Martyrdom of Saint Mark is anihim, and, like others, plundered him mated and poetic; it is by Daniel Crispi, without acknowledgment. The dedica- one of those great old Italian masters, tion of the dictionary is addressed to whose fame does not equal their merit, Louis-the-Moor; it contains a splendid and who are scarcely known out of their eulogium in hexameter verse of that country. prince, who, though criminal, was a pa- In the small church of Saint Charles: iron of learning aod the arts, and kept-an Immaculate Virgin, a new work at his court Leonardo di Vinci, Bra- | by S. Jacopo Conca, who seems to conmante, and Demetrius Chalcondylas : tinue the family of the indifferent and 100 Louis having been arrested in disguise much lauded painters to which he belongs; near Novara, he was taken to France. a Deposition from the Cross, by Cezano, and his captivity there must be regarded a cleier artist of Novara, a man of letters as a real calamity for literature.

and courtier, who enjoyed the favour of The church and fraternity of San Gio- Cardinal Frederick Borromeo; a little vanni decollato, built in 1636, is in the Sacred Heart, by the celebrated Andreo form of an antique tomb, and is remarka- Appiani, one of the few sacred subjects ble for its singular construction. It rests treated by this painter of the triumphs on four columos orgranite without an iron of Napoleon, bis inspirer and his hero; cincture. An Adoration of the Magi, a large Martyrdom of Saint Agnes, in the choir, is by Charles Francis Nuvo- which formerly served as ancone at the lone, who acquired and retained the church of the nuns of that saint, by Gilarsurname of the Guido of Lombardy, dini, an artist of the last century, rather an artist full of devotion to the Virgin, clever at this kind of work. who never painted any one of his fine Saint Peter al Rosario was formerly madonnas, so sought after by connois- a convent of powerful Dominicans, who, scurs, without having first perforined in 1307, codemned tbe famous heresome act of piety.

siarch of Novara, Fra Dulcino, head of The church of Saint Philip de' Neri the sect of the Gazzari, a barbarous sort has two recent works of art: lhe ancone of Saint Simonians, for having preached of the choir, painted at Rome somewhat the community of goods and women. incorrectly by Professor Tofanelli; and a Dulcino was burnt with his concubine not ungraceful statue of the Virgin, by the beautiful Marguerite, a nun that he S. Prinelti, a sculptor of Novara. had abducted from her convent; they

At the church of Saint Euphernia, the both showed extraordinary intrepidity front of which, executed in 1787, has no amid the horrors of their execution. merit whatever, the Martyrdom of Saint Dulcino was taken, after being defeated Genès d'Arles, by John Baptist Costa, at the head of five thousand sectaries, on is deficient neither in expression nor co- Maunday Thursday, in a pitched battle; louring, although the painter has clothed this is the warlike monk for whom Dante the registrar of the Roman prefect in a represents Mahomet so interested, when Spanish dress.

he makes him say :Saint Mark, one of the most regular as well as most elegant churches of No

Or di' a Fra Dolcin dunque che s'armi, veza, is farther distinguished by its paint

Tu che forse vedral il sole in breve, ings. The Virgin, the Infant Jesus, Siegli non vuol qui tosto seguitarmi : and Saint Anne, by what author is un- si di vivanda, che stretta di neve certain, from ils originality and sos na

Non recbl la vittoria al Novarese, tural expression, has had the merit of

Ch'altrimenti acquistar non saria llere. being attributed to Camillo Procaccini. The Procession made at Milan by Saint The insurrection of Dulcino appears Charles Borromeo for the cessation of not to have been completely suppressed, the plague, is by Moncalvo, a good pain- as four years after bis defeat the cloister ter of the country in the sixteenth cen- of the Dominicans was attacked, while tury, who has also painted on the cupola they were assembled. by a band of armed and the gallery of the choir an Eternal men, who dispersed them after wounding Father and Saint Mark carried to Pa- and killing a great number. The existradise by the angels; compositions at | ing church, finished in 1618, and pre

senting the architectural contradiction of beginning of last century, celebrated the Corinthian order at bottom and the for bis frescos. The tomb of the saint losic at lop, is ornamented with some may be compared for magnificence to the mood paintings. A Paradise, composed most splendid in Italy. The colossal wtogether of Dominicans, on the cupola, high-aliar is resplendent with marble and the frescos of the chapel of Saiot and bronze; it was consecrated in 1725, Dominick, are by Gilardini. The Virgin, by Cardinal Gilberto Borromeo, bishop Saint Peter the martyr, and Saint Ca- of Novara, and suffers from the corrupt therine di Siena, on ibe ancone of the taste prevalent at that epoch. The starich chapel of the Rosary, is a fine pro-tues of the doctors of the church by duction and deservedly praised; it is by Rusca of Milan, from their slender phy: Giulio Cesar Procaccini, the ablest of the siognomy, look like youthful old men, Procacemi.

and the St. Jerome bas the appearance of The superb basiliek of Saint Gaudenzio, wearing a wig. The statues of S. Binelli by the architect Pellegrini, is rich in are held in higher estimation, especially paintings by the best masters of the Mi- those of St. Andrew. St. Paul and St. lanese school. In the chapel of the Bartholomew. In the chamber of the Happy-Death, a Deposing of the Cross chapter, the St. Jerome writing, by passes for the masterpiece of Moncalvo; Spagpuoletto, bas his energy and effect. and the different frescos, the Last Judg- The oldest document in the archives is ment, of Morazzone, prove the power, the Acts of the life of St. Gaudenzio of grandeur, and truth of his talents. The the eighth century; ihey also possess a Guardian Angel, in the chapel of the consular diptych in ivory, still superior name, by Hyacinth Brandi, the most for its workmanship to that of the Duocelebrated popul of Lanfranchi, recalls mo, and on which are sculptured two the lofty style of his master. There is Roman consuls giving the signal for the sotne resemblance to Paul Veronese in public games. On the outside of the the Overthrose of Sennacherib, a lively basilic is a St. Peter, a carving of the and intelligent composition by Antonio dark ages, and some Roman sepulchral Rando, the Novarese painter of the stones. The steeple, a splendid struckventeenth century. The ancone in lure by Count Benedetto Alfieri, finished Ni compartments of the chapel of the in 1786, was built with the funds muidie Madoona was painted, in 1514, proceeding from a tax of a farthing on by Gaudenzio Ferrari, at the command of every pound of meat sold. On each side the canons of Saint Gaudenzio, who pa- of the entrance a Roman inscription is tromised the arts; it is his largest work enchased; one of them perpetuates the in oil before his journey to Rome, and the memory of a certain lilianevreus, who, last of bors earlier style; and, although the although questor, owed nothing to the colooring is injured, it bas bis sweet, Republic (reipublicæ nihil debuil), an graceful, and patural expression. The unusual circumstance, it appears, among chapel of the Crucifix has an earthen the Roman questors, since it was i bought crucifix, by Gaudenzio Ferrari, who was worthy of being transmitted to posterity also very clever in this kind of sculpture. in an epitaph. The vigoroas frescos of the four greater Prophets are by S. Ludovico Saba

CHAPTER XIII. telli, a Tuscan, professor in the academy of Mitan. The Saint Augustine writing Poule-Bridges.-Roads in Lombardy. his treatise on the Trinity, in the chapel of saint Barbe, is an esteemed perform- The road enters Lombardy on this side ance of Giuseppe Nuvolone. The two su- at Bualora, on the Ticino: a magnifiperb doors of ihe inper chapel of the tomb cent bridge has been built there of that of Saint Gaudenzio are a solid mixture fine hard shining sti ne found in the viof cast steel and bronze : the four great cinity of Lago Maggiore. In no district bronze statues represent the patrons of has iho administration des Ponts et ibe toon and diocese of Novara; the Chaussées been more active or rendered Trumph of Saint Gaudenzio in fresco greater services. The numerous rivers on the rupola, full of imagination, is the and canals on the road can now be passed masterpiece of Stefano Legoani, a good without inconvenience. Agriculture paistet of the Lombard school at the tourishes in all this part of Italy, and every thing announces general pro- | grass is pulled up as soon as it appears. sperity; Austrian domination is there The Austrian government, in general so seen on its best side. The roads are real economical and paltry, is nobly libera! well-managed garden walks; even the in this respect. '

BOOK THE THIRD.

MILAN.

CHAPTER 1.

tions of two witnesses or the confession

of the criminal. This regulation is pot at French aspect of Milan.—Royal palace.- Frescos of all adapted for the Italians, and particuApplani.- Villa - arcbiepiscopal palace. – Foun-larly the Lombards, though attended tain.-Como di pietra.-Gallery De Cristoforis.- with no inconvenience among the happy Palace della contabilià.- Marini.—House of Vis- and tranquil population of Austria :thus, mara.-Porta Orientale.

by a strange opposition of manners, does

even the milder part of the laws of the It is impossible not to be struck, even conquering people become impracticable in passing, with the appearance of wealth, and injurious to the conquered. commerce, and industry of this great The French aspect of Milan appears city. The population now amounts to a still more conspicuous in the palaces of hundred and sixty thousand, but about the prince, wbich are brilliant imilations the middle of the disteenth century it was of the imperial palaces of France, but three huudred thousand. Its French less magnificent. Their number also is aspect, so much increased of late years, nearly the same, independently of the was already remarkable in the days of ordinary palace of the viceroy, la villa, Montaigne. He found that “Milan with its English garden and its position pretty much resembled Paris, and was in the interior of the city, is the Elysée greatly like the lowns of France." Tasso Bourbon of this bastard Paris; and observed the same resemblance, during Monza, another royal residence three the two years he passed at Paris in the leagues from Gjilan, reminds one of Saint suite of Cardinal d'Este, when he wrote Cloud. The frescos of Appiani, which his partial and unjust parallel between are seen in these various residences, esItaly and France. The Corso has at pecially the great fresco of the royal papresent all the magnificent of the Rue du lace of Milan, representing the assembly Mont-Blanc ; and without the clumsy of the gods, and the medallion of the hulan which escorts at night the brilliant principalsaloon which presents Napoleon caleches of the Corso, one might imagine under the features of Jupiter, are perone's self on the Boulevards of Paris. haps too much boasted by the Italians ;

The multitude of sentry boxes placed bui these showy decorative paintings at all the corners of ihe sireets, and ihe produce a great effect, and seem moreautomaton soldier set ibere every night, over prelly much in conformity with the have something gloomy and menacing. theatrical glory which they consecrate. But such precautions are but too neces- The different palaces of Milan are sary considering the legislative condition rather vast and costly houses than mo of the country. The Austrian law never numents; the courts, surrounded with convicts on the evidence of the complai- piazzas, have, bowever, a kind of grannant, unless corroborated by the deposi- deur. Despite the lavish use of the title

· The repairs of the excellent roads of ibe Lom- to the committee of roads ond cabals by Baron Pasbardo - Venetian kingdom cost 1,500,000 Austrian quier, on the 6th of October, 1828, the expenditure livres (ibat is, 52,200 pounds sterling) for fifteen on ide roads o! France is 1750 fr. a league ( 31. bundred and eighteen ltalian miles; raiber more 10 s. the English nule); in Englaod the cost is from than 261. the English mile. From the report read sil. to 611. The mile.

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