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ranged internally by one of the Galli | having for many years infested the VeBuena, who were famous in Europe netian school to the utmost of his power. during ihe last century for ibeir taste and The gate of Saint Thomas, which dates s!! In decoration, and without whose from 1518, has been beld worthy, from at it seemed hardly possible to celebrate the beauty of its front and its solid cona marriage, a victory, or a princely pro-struction, to be attributed to Pietro Lomce-10.

bardi, as also tbe statue of St. Paul which Ibe Pola ralace, built by the Lom- surmounts it. bardi, botwithstanding the ruined state The civil hospital of Trevisa is worth a of the staircase, is worth notice for its visit, on account of two pictures in the nobie front and vestibule.

director's new apartment : the Nativity, As bolest bopkeeper occupies the full of grace and nature, by Caprioli, an ancieni Dolbni palace, remarkable for artist of i be Modena school of the fifteenth the prbness of its front, though the ar-century; and the Holy family, a mastercbitect Paznossini of Trevisa flourished piece combining the graceful, natural, en architecture was on the decline in and expressive, by the elder Palma. leal. To the arched roof of the principal A fine brick bridge in a good state of sal wa, pow a warehouse, there is a preservation, notwithstanding its three Irrumph of Bacchus, a fresco of a yel- centuries, is thrown across the Sile of esiblint, with some fine foreshorten- which the poet Dante has sung, ir by Dorigny. a Parisian artist, one of Lebrun s pupils, who came to Italy Dove sile a Cagnano s accompagoa, win yang and parallished a school; be loved at Trevisa, and died at Verona, and which river waters the beautiful di tbe advanced age of eighty-eight, I country of Trevisa.

BOOK THE SIXTH.

VENICE.

CHAPTER 1.

class of nobles; in Holland it extended

to all classes. The paintings of CapaSenkelt deelle.- Venice on terra firma.

letto have so familiarised us with the

barbour, the squares, and monuments of I would be difficult to describe the Venice, that when we penetrate into the impresso Fenice produces on its first city itself, it appears as if already known appearanre; the multitude of domes, to us. Bonington, an English artist of a straples, palaces, columns, rising out of melancholy cast, has painted some new the boum of the waters, looks at a dis- views of Venice, in which is most pertapre like a city under water and pro- rectly sketched its present state of desoduers a freling of surprise and fear. lation; these, compared with ibose of One can scarcely imagine that to be the the Venetian painter, resemble the picend of his journey and the destined ture of a woman still beautiful, but worn pire of his sojourn. Rotterdam, it is down by age and misfortune. All those tand, is not less extraordinary; it may be gondolas, hung with black, a species of me, bet I cannot imagine that Holland foaling sepulchres, look as if they were ever resembled Venice : if commerce in mourning for the city; and the gondo. was the soul of tbe two states, in the lier, instead of singing the verses of one it was simple, grave, unassuming, Ariosto and Tasso,' is neither more nor austere, and economicali in the other brilliant, pompous, dissolute, the friend of picasare and the arts. Liberty in Ve- Venetian translation; the goodoliers did not du

" These verses were, It is well known, only , tuce was the oppressive privilege of a l derstand the lens.

less than a poor boatman with but little, and the members of the academy of fine poetry in his composition, whose only arts of Venice, which is the first and only song is a harsh screaming ah eh at the complete work on this fine city, is å turning of each calle,' to avoid the danger faithful and precious inventory of all its of collision with other gondolas that are masterpieces, some of which even since not immediately visible. This aspect of its publication are no longer in existence. Venice has a something in it more gloomy Another excellent work, a collection of than that of ordinary ruins : nature lives Venetian inscriptions by S. Cigogna, still in the latter, and sometimes adds to will also be the means of preserving retheir beauty, and although they are the collections of what Venice was,

and remains of by-gone centuries, we feel which the author has nobly dedicated to they will live for centuries to come, and his country. probably witness not only the decay of Some years ago a bold plan was pra iheir present master's power, but of suc- posed by a zealous Venetian in order to ceeding empires loo : here these new prevent the ruins of his native city; • this ruins will rapidly perish, and this Pal- was to join Venice to the continent, a myra of the sea, relaken by the avenging project already formed by Marco Foscaelement from which it was conquered, rini, an enlightened Doge of the last will leave no trace behind. No time century, at the epoch which preceded ought to be lost in visiting Venice, lo con- the fall of the republic. A road of comtemplate the works of Titian, the frescos munication was proposed to be made on of Tintorello aud Paolo Veronese, the the narrowest point of the lagoon, the statues, the palaces, the temples, the mau- length of which does not exceed two soleums of Sansovino and Palladio toiter- miles and a half; the materials to make ing on the very verge of destruction. this road might be easily procured in the

I visited Venice three different times, mud of the marshes and the gravel of at intervals of about a year; and at the neighbouring rivers; it was suggesied each visit was forcibly struck with its that it should be planted with trees, rapid decline. A skiiful observer who paved for foot passengers, and edged by was living there then calculated that it iwo parallel canals, with drawbridges for might go on for sixty years more in this the desence of the city : the expense manner. I cannot avoid acknowledging would not exceed a million and a ball of that the description I gave of Venice on Norins (156,000 pounds). Not cortesting my first visit, to be accurate now, must the material advantages that Venice be reduced in some of its features. The might immediately gain by its being joispopulation formerly was one hundreded to terra firma, the more particularly and ninety thousand, at the end of the since the permission granted for a rail last century it was but one hundred and road between Milan and tbis city, I do fifty, and is now not more than one not know, if it were carried into effect, hundred and ibree, out of wbich forty whether such a change would not be to thousand are dependent on the charity the imagination at least a different speof the rest. The number of gondolas, cies of destruction, since it would take formerly six thousand five hundred, was from the queen of the Adriatic her pecuin 1827 six hundred and seventy-eight. liar character and wondrous aspect. Comines pretended when he was there they amounted to thirty thousand (il s'en

CHAPTER II. finiroit trente mille).

In the midst of its destruction Venice Piazza of Saint Mark.–Pigeons.- Coffee-booses.found a man full of zeal, laste, and knowledge, who has collected, and rendered imperishable in some degree ibe The Piazza of Saint Mark has not its grandeur and magnificence of its monu- like in the world, the East and West are ments. Jo the work entitled Fabbriche there brought into each otber's presence: più cospicue di Venezia, by Cicognara on one side the Ducal palace with the in

The calle are the streets, the passages of Venice, See Memoria sul commercio di Venezia, e sol of wbicb ibere are two thousand one bundred and mezzi d'impedirne il decadimento, letta al renete eight; the number of bouses twenty seven thou- Ateneo dal socio ordinario Luigi Casariui, segre sand oloe bundred and eighteen, and of bridges tario dell'inclita congregazione entrale. Fenesia , three bundred and sli,

1823, in-8°,

Pili.

dented architecture, the balconies, and public it was decreed that they should galleries of Arabian monuments, and the not only remain unmolested bui be fed church of Saint Mark with ils angular at the expence of the state. Venice bas froot and lead-covered cupolas, remind lost its liberty, but those light and graceIbe beholder of a mosque at Constanti- ful creatures appear to have escaped the Dople or Cairo : on the other side regular German conquerors.. arcades with shops similar to the Palais- Venice still palpitates in the piazza of Royal at Paris. 'The same contrast is to Saint Mark; this brilliant decoration be found among the men : there are costs a million annually in repairs; while Turks, Greeks, and Armenians, some other distant quarters, some of which lying down, others taking collee and possess magnificent palaces, are left to sherbet, under large awnings of different fall into ruins : this corpse of a city, to bridisant colours, resembling tents; some use the expression of Cicero's friend, is smoking perfumes in their long amber already cold at the extremities, the life Lipped pipes of rose-wood, a crowd of and heat remaining are confined to the hotent and majestic automata, while heart. European travellers, and others occupied The Florian coffee-house, under the silbibeir business, are burriedly passing arcades Procuratie Nuove, in the old to and fro.

time of Venice was a species or instituThe infinite number of pigeons that tion; it has not survived the decline and corer tbe piazza of Saint Mark, the cupola fall of the city. This celebrated coffeeof the carrh, and the roofs of the Ducal house, like the other great collee-houses palace, add also to the Oriental aspect of in the piazza of Saint Mark, Quadri, ibre monuments. In a country where Leoni, Sullil, etc., is however open the the ruling power, though slow in action is whole night in all seasons, and, in fact, erer va ibe watch, one would prefer the is never shut. Florian was formerly the conveyance of letters by these birds. confidant and universal agent of the VeThese pigeons have been in Venice from netian nobility. The Venetian who alightds earbest days. It was the custom on ed there, had news of his friends and acPaim sunday to let Ny from above the quaintances; was informed when they principal gaie of Saint Mark, a number would be back and what they had done in

i pigeons with small rulls of paper his absence; there too he found his letters, wed to ibeir feet, wbich prevented them cards, and probably his bills; in short, froen continuing in the air, and as they every thing of moment had been done feil they were caught by the crowd, who for him by Florian, with care, intellibrzan fiercely to dispute the prizes the gence, and circumspection. Canova bonnent they were loosed. This was a never forgot the more essential services speries of distribution to the public rather be bad received from Florian at the les i Doble than ours. li sometimes commencement of his career, when he bappened that the pigeons got rid of wanted to become known; and he tbrir impediments and sought an asylum remained his friend through life. Floon the roofs of Saint Mark and the Ducal rian was often tormented with the gout Misce, gear to those awful Piombi where in his feet, and Canova modelled his leg buman captives bemoaned a lot far more and foot so that the shoemaker could enhappy bere they rapidly increased, take his measure without pulling him to 204 such was the interest ihey excited pain. This leg of a coffeehouse-keeper that to comply with the wishes of the appears to me no less bonourable to Ca

During the government of tbe Republic a person withstanding Ibe deafness wbicb afflicted her when

to the cly grabarles led ibe pigeons advanced in years. She died at the age of sevenpe est ning ou the plaza of Saint Nark and the ty-eight to the year 1832. Madame Michiel also Page when Veoice was taken to 1796, these translated Shakspeare, and defended Venice lo ibe was stoners were no longer supplied, and have most patriotic maoner against M. de Chateaubriand

ce beau ladebled to the compassion of the Ve- • The visiting cards in Italy are commonly ornaDream lex ibeir su brisleace. Consult the work of mented with emblems and monuments : I received Letame jastine Henler Michiel on the origin of cards at Seruna on which was an engraving of the Vertian mes, Venice, 1817. 5 vol. Sro, an agreeable ampoltheatre; the Venetians bave on theirs the saturned work, one of tbe best books that has bridge of the Rialto, the Iroot of suint Mars, the s pobüsbied oo ide bistory of Venice. I wet columns of the Plastetta, etc. site asikotesa, a very amlable woman, not

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nova than his Theseus, it is pleasing to dolphins and tridents. One of the bronze esteem him as a man wbom we bave doors of the baptistry, covered with the admired as an artist.

figures of saints and Greek inscriptions, At the extremity of the piazza there appears to have been brought from the are three pili or Oag-masts wbich form basilic of Saint Sophia. The mosaic, o erly bore ihe glorious standards of Saint the eleventh or twelfth century, on the Mark, now replaced by the Austrian wall, represents the Baptism of Christ, flag. The pedestals of these masts are and is a warm animated composition. in bronze, by Leopardo, and possess the St. John the Baptist, in bronze, placed elegance and taste of the Grecian artists. over the font, by Francesco Segala, Independently of the great pains taken one of the good statues of the sixteenth by the artist, they are so beautifully po- century. I remarked in this chapel of lished that the figures have all the ap- | the baptistry, against the wall, the tomb pearance of having just quilted the work of the doge Andrea Dandolo, who died shop; whereas they have been there in 1354, an intrepid warrior and skilful upwards of three centuries, exposed to politician, the friend of Petrarch and the the injury of the air, the African siroccos, oldest historian of Venice, as his ancestor and to the misty saline spray of the was its greatest hero. The name of raging Adriatic.

Dandolo is so noble and great that I loved

to repeat it under the vaulted roofs of CHAPTER UJI.

Saini Mark, and had not my respect for

the solemnity of the place prevented me, Churcb. – Baptistry. - Bronze gate. - The Virgin I should have made it re-echo there, as

della Scarpa.--Pala d'oro.- Historical stones.-
Horses. - Lion of Saint Mark.--Campanile.- Log-

an illustrious traveller did that of Leogielta.-Treasury.

nidas on the ruins of Lacedemon; but

the echo of Saint Mark would doubtless The basilic of Saint Mark, begun about have died away as speedily as that of the end of the tenth century by the doge Sparta, although the heroic acts of the Orsolo, is of chequered architecture, a Venetian warrior are less ancient by mixture of Greek and Roman, but more fourleen centuries. I must confess Ibat especially Gothic. A description of the my feelings were very different when, as mosaics, sculptures, basso-relievos, and I looked at the bronze door of the vestry arabesques with wbich it is ornamented, behind the allar, a work that occupied would be endless. There are brilliantly thirty years of Sansovino's existence, blended Grecian elegance, Byzantian I saw there in relievo the almost living luxury, and the talents of the Venetian head of Aretino beside those of Tilian masters. On seeing these splendid com and the author, both of them his friends. partments, the golden arched roofs, the I could perceive in it all the presumppavement of jasper and porphyry, the lion of bis talent and disposition ; a man ive hundred columns of black, white, who made a trade of calumoy, who and veined marble, of bronze alabaster, praised for a certain price, and who may vert antique, and serpentine, one would be considered the representative of the feel inclined to take this christian temple, licentious and ancient manners of Veexcept that is is somewhat 100 gloomily nice. The friendship between Titian, lighied, to be a palace of the Arabian Sansovino, and Arelino, if it does but Nights. Religion bas preserved all these lille honour to the iwo artists, must riches, which might have been dissipated have contributed in an extraordinary in the speculations and enterprises of a degree to the good laste and splendour commercial and navigating people. The or Venice. These three men aided each wrecks of the magnificence of ancient other by mutual counsels, and the superb Rome ornament the cathedrals of the mo gate of Sansovino is a kind of monument dern city, ils successor. Saint Mark has of their close and constant union. Titian collected the costly spoils of Conslan- could not always escape the importunate linople. Italy thus embraces the ruins pecuniary demands of the greedy author, of these lwo imperial cities.

nor his calumnies when the money was The benitier, or holy-water vase, a not forthcoming.' The four Evange work of the afteenth century, of porphyry, is supported by an antique allar

See the following passage from one of Aretino

letters to the duke of Florence, dated October, 1545 of Grecian sculplure, ornamented with

“La non puca quantità di dunari cbe M. Tiziano s

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lists of brodze in the choir, are also by | inscriptions that are almost barbarous ; Sansovino, and are considered as some the figures are still, plain, and sinof his finest works, also an altar behind gular, but the ensemble has something the high altar, ornainented with basso-dignified in it: one might compare it to relievos in marble and bronze gilt. an old poem or some ancient chronicle,

The Zeno cbapel, the allar, and the interesting as regards the period 10 monument of the Cardinal are the inesti- wbich it belongs, but which it would mable works of Pietro and Antonio Lom- be irrational to lake as a model after the bardo, and Leopardo. Here is also the masterpieces of the great artists. celebrated statue of the Virgin cast by If the fickle and conquered people of Albergbelti, with the cognomen of della Venice appear to have forgotten their scarpa, because the Virgin has shoes on. history, the stones and monuments are The allar, the statue of St. James, and indelibly impressed with it, and nootber masterpieces of Leopardo, are both where perhaps is the historical aspect noble and graceful. The finest of the of a place less desaced than there. A red bumerous columns of Saint Mark in white marble pavement without any inscrip and black porphyry, is in the oratory of tion near to the sixteenih arcade, recalls lider Cross, nearest ihe altar on the epistle the most ancient recollections of Venice. tede. The twelve Apostles, the Virgin, It was there that Narses when he sucand St. Mark, in marble, placed above the ceeded Belisarius built the ancient church arrhurave which separates the body of of Saint Geminian, destroyed in the the burrb from the choir, are by The Iwelith century, when the canal on the broubers Jarobello and Pietro - Paolo edge of which it stood was filled up. dalle Massegne, excellent Venetian artists Every year the doge and senate viof the latter end of the fourteenth cen- sited the new church of Saint Geminian, tery, pupils of the Pisa school, who seem pulled down in 1809,- and they were Worthy of a more advanced cpoch. The reconducted with great pomp to this rat (bandelier of Saint Mark, notwith identical stone, the original limit of the Randing the oddness of its base, is con- piazza of Saint Mark. Not far from Nder d as one of the most remarkable ihence, in a retired street, there is a small Varks of its kind for the lasle and nature white stone marking ihe spot where of the figures, and the elegance of the Boemondo Tiepolo, the Catiline of Veortaments.

nice, perished; he was killed by a pot of The Paia d'oro, a species of mosaic flowers that a loo curious old woman ac. in Rold and silver on enamel, placed cidentally threw down from her window, above the principal allar, is a curious in leaning forward to see him as he was tour ment of art belonging to the Greeks going, at the head of the conspirators, lo or the Lower-Empire, and of that pros- seize the Ducal palace and overthrow perity-bat military and cominercial the Great council, a power-pot which has aviation of ihe Venetians which pre- effectually saved Venetian liberty, as the crded the poetical and literary civilisa- Catiline Orations did Rome and the la of other Italian cities. Ordered at senale. Immediately after the defeat of Constantinople by the republic towards Tiepolo's party, the council of Ten was the end of ihe tenth century, the Palacreated; à formidable institution, also do was augmented and enriched at due to the old woman's fower-pot. InPence in the three following ceglu- dependently of the mementos of glory nes: leibibits, symmetrically enchased and conquest which abound in Saint ante ils numerous ornaments, a series Mark, certain squares of red marble,

portures representing subjects from under the vestibule, still mark the spot the Ond and Aew Testaments, the life of of ihe famous interview where a disDental Mark, the Apostles, the angels, sembled reconciliation was affected beand the propbets, with Greek and Latin Iween Alexander III. and the emperor Menu e la pare assai avidità che tiene di accre- zia, although a work of that kind belongs less to KE*, use che egli non dando cura e obbligo cbe The bbstory of architecture than that of polotlog.

480 la casa, ne a dovere che si convenga a' The description is remarkable for its scrupulous rest, wie) quello con Istrana ansia atlende che probeta TIA ene."

* See post, cbapters XIV. and XXIV. This elegant Granara wa ibe first who gave a detailed church occupied the present ball and staircase of danai of the tada dors in the favoriche di Tene | the Royal palace.

accuracy.

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