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noble front and vestibule.

Italy. lo the arched roof of the principal
ska, now a warehouse, there is a

bardi, bo withstanding the ruined state ibe richness of its front, though the arbe lived at Trevisa, and died at Verona, and which river waters the beautiful

the advanced age of eigbly-eight, I country of Trevisa. Tais decline-Yenice on terra Irma.

It would be difficult to describe the Venice, that when we penetrate into the impression Venice produces on its first city itself, it appears as is already known elle, palaces, columps, rising out of melancholy cast, has painted some new be bou of the waters, looks at a dis- views of Venice, in which is most per

etike a city under water and pro- fectly sketched its present state of desoOne can scarcely imagine that to be the the Venetian painter, resemble the picbe a feeling of surprise and fear. | lation; these, compared with those of end d' his journey and the destined place of his sojourn, Rotterdam, it is down by age and misfortune. All those jaid, is not less extraordinary; it may be gondolas, hung with black, a species of

but I cannot imagine that Holland | floating sepulcbres, look as if they were w the soul of the two states, in the lier, instead of singing the verses of Ylliant, pompous, dissolute, the friend

here, and economical; in the other 5 VENICE.

143 faozed internally by one of the Galli, having for many years infested the VeBobtena, who were famous in Europe netian school to the utmost of his power. caring the last century for their taste and Wilt in decoration, and without whose from 1518, has been held worthy, from

The gate of Saint Thomas, wbich dates did it seemed hardly possible to celebrate the beauly of its front and its solid concenarriage, a victory, or a princely pro-struction, to be attributed to Pietro LomThe Pola palace, built by the Lom- surmounts it.

bardi, as also the statue of St. Paul which

The civil hospital of Trevisa is worth a An brest shopkeeper occupies the full of grace and nature, by Caprioli, an

director's new apartment: The Nativity, amerett Dolfini palace, remarkable for artist of the Modena school or the fifteenth

century; and the Holy family, a masteren architecture was on the decline in and expressive, by the elder Palma.

A fine brick bridge in a good state of Inumph of Bacchus, a fresco or a yel- centuries, is thrown across the Sile of

preservation, notwithstanding its three basisb tint, with some fine foreshorienng by Dorigoy, a Parisian artist, one

which the poet Dante has sung,

gnano s'accompagna, BOOK THE SIXTH.


class of nobles; in Holland it extended to all classes. The paintings of Capaletto have so familiarised us with the harbour, the squares, and monuments of to us. Bonington, an English artist of a ture of a woman , but

of Letton's pupils, who came to Italy
bet young and established a scbcol ;

Dove Sile


appearance ; the multitude of domes,

step resembled. Venice

: if commerce

in mourning for the city; and the gondo.

it was simple

grave, unassuming. Ariosto and Tasso,' is neither more nor

pleasure and the

She was the oppressive privilege of a 1 derstand the text.

" These verses were, it is well known, only a Venetian translation; the gondoliers did not up

une ambi

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will also be the means of preserving fie es

Some years ago a bold plan was pr mod difere

was to join Venice to the continch (TUND myra of the sea, retaken by the avenging project already formed by Marco Foscamula, wh

less than a poor boalman with but little and the members of the academy of fin

VE poetry in his composition, whose only arts of Venice, which is the first and online besties

, and song is a harsh screaming ah eh at the complete work on this fine city, is this, Abd turning of each calle,' to avoid the danger faithful and precious inventory of all is of collision with other gondolas that are masterpieces, some of which even side mis mees not immediately visible. This aspect of its publication are no longer in existencia e Citater Venice has

a something in it more gloomy Another excellent work, a collection serie terus than that of ordinary ruins : nature lives Venetian inscriptions by S. Cigogna a Peze still in the latter, and sometimes adds to their beauty, and although they are the collections of what Venice was, als te dee's remains of by-gone centuries, we see! which the author has nobly dedicated links they will live for centuries to come, and his country. probably witness not only the decay of iheir present master's power, but of suc- posed by a zealous Venetian in order ceeding empires 1oo : here these new prevent the ruins of his native city; II ruins will rapidly perish, and this Palelement from which it was conquered, rini, an enlightened Doge of the la will leave no trace behind. No time century, at the epoch which precedi, ought to be lost in visiting Venice, lo con the fall of the republic. A road of com template the works of Tilian, the frescos munication was proposed to be made of Tintorello aud Paolo Veronese, the the narrowest point of the lagoon, il statues, the palaces, the temples, the mau- length of which does not exceed ts soleums of Saosovino and Palladio totter miles and a half; the malerials to mal ing on the very verge of destruction, this road might be easily procured in tl

I visited Venice three different times, mud of the marshes and the gravel at intervals of about a year; and at the neighbouring rivers; it was suggesti each visit was forcibly struck with its that it should be planted with tree rapid decline. A skilful observer who paved for foot passengers, and edged was living there then calculated that it iwo parallel canals, with drawbridges si Petice might go on for sixty years more in this the defence of the cily : the essen manner. I cannot avoid acknowledging would not exceed a million and a hall tbat the description I gave of Venice on florins (156,000 pounds). Not cortestir my first visit, io be accurate now, must the material advantages that Vealt be reduced in some of its features. The might immediately gain by its being joil population formerly was one hundred ed io terra firma, the more particular and ninety thousand, at the end of the since the permission granted for a rai last century it was but one hundred and road between Milan and this city, I fifty, and is now not more than one hundred and three, out of which forty whether such a change would not be thousand are dependent on the charity the imagination at least a different sp of the rest. The number of gondolas, cies of destruction, since it would tal formerly six thousand five bundred, was from the queen of the Adriatic her pec in 1827 six hundred and seventy-eight. liar character and wondrous aspect. Comines pretended when he was there they amounted to thirty thousand (il s'en

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not know, if it were carried into effet * This sand ploe bundred and eighteen, and of bridges tario dell'inclita congregazione centrale. Venezia...

CHAPTER II. finiroit trente mille).

In the midst of its destruction Venice Piazza of Saint Mark.-- Pigeons.- Coffee-bouses. found a man full of zeal, laste, and

Pill. knowledge, who has collected, and rendered imperishable in some degree the The Piazza of Saint Mark has not i grandeur and magnificence of its monu- like in the world, the East and West ar ments. Jo the work entitled Fabbriche there brought into each olber's presence più cospicue di Venezia, by Cicognara on one side the Ducal palace with the in

The calle are the streets, the passages of Veoice, See Memoria sul commercio di Venezia, est of wbicb there are two thousand one hundred and

mezzi d'impedirne il decadimento, letta al venet eight; the number of houses twenty seven thou Ateneo dal socio ordinario Luigi Casariol, segre three bundred and slx,

1823, in-8°,

15 kascom formatore



2 Work and the

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warnt they were loosed. This was a happened that the pigeons got rid of their impediments and sought an asylum botan captives bemoaned a lot far more wakappy; bere they rapidly increased, wong to be city graparies fed tbe pigeons se terting on the piazza of Saint Mark and the

e. Wbee Venice was taken ja 1796, these
z treo lodebted to tbe compassion of the Te-

Iduse lastine Renier Micbiel on the origin of

dented architecture, the balconies, and public it was decreed that they should galleries of Arabian monuments, and the not only remain unmolested but be fed church of Saint Mark with its angular at the expeoce of the state. Venice bas frent and lead-covered cupolas, remind lost ils liberty, but those light and gracethe bebolder of a mosque at Constanti- ful creatures appear to have escaped the aiple or Cairo; on the Olber side regular German conquerors." arcades with shops similar to the Palais Venice still palpitates in the piazza of Royal at Paris. The same contrast is to Saint Mark; this brilliant decoration be found wrong the men : there are costs a million annually in repairs; while Turks

, Greeks, and Armenians, some olber distant quarters, some of which lying down, others taking coffee and possess magnificent palaces, are left to sterben

, under large awnings of different fall into ruins : this corpse of a city, to berilizat colours, resembling tents; some use the expression of Cicero's friend, is smoking perfumes in their long amber- already cold at the extremities, the life teed pipes of rose-wood, a crowd of and heat remaining are confined to the steden and majestic automata, while heart. European travellers, and others occupied

The Florian coffee-house, under the with their business, are hurriedly passing arcades Procuratie Nuove, in the old

time of Venice was a species of instituIbe infinite number of pigeons that tion; it has not survived the decline and Ofer the piazza of Saint Mark, the cupola fall of the city. This celebrated coffeeo the church, and the roofs of the Ducal house, like the other great coffee-houses place

, add also to the Oriental aspect of in the piazza of Saint Mark, Quadri, bese Donuments. In a country where Leoni, Sutlil, etc., is however open the de rating power, though slow in action, is whole night in all seasons, and, in fact, ener on ibe walch, one would prefer the is never shut. Florian was formerly the navegance of letters by these birds. confidant and universal agent of the veThese pigeons have been in Venice from netian

nobility. The Venetian who alightStarliest days. It was the custom on ed ibere, had news of his friends and acPeale senday to let dy from above the quaintances: was informed when they potepal gaie of Saint Mark, a number would be back and what they had done in pigeons with small rolls of paper his absence ; there 100 he found his letters,

13 their feet, which prevented them cards, and probably his bills; in short, en continuing in the air, and as they every thing of moment had been done hat they were caught by the crowd, who for him by Florian, with care, intellibega fiercely to dispute the prizes the gence, and circumspection. Canova

never forgot the more essential services petisi distribution to the public rather

be bad received from Florian at the li sometimes commencement of his career, when he

wanted to become known; and be

remained his friend through life. Flodatte rocks of Saint Mark and the Ducal rian was often torinented with the gout pelare , dear to those awful Piombi where in bis feet, and Canova modelled his leg

and foot so that the shoemaker could

take his measure without pulling him to und such was the interest ihey excited pain. This leg of a coffeehouse-keeper lbet to comply with the wishes of the appears to me no less bonourable 10 EBering i be government of the Republic a person withstanding Ibe deafness whicb afficted ber when

advanced in years. She died at the age of seventy-eight 1o the year 1839. Madame Micbiel also

translated Sbakspeare, and defended Venice in obe ne pensioners were no longer supplied, and have most patriotic mapper against M. de Chateaubriand,

a The vi-lling cards In Italy are commonly ornaesses for their subsisteoce. Consult the work of mented with emblems and monuments : 1 received

cards al Verona on wbieb was an engraving of the feles, Venice, 1817, 5 vol. 8ro, an agreeable amphitheatre; the Venetians bave on theirs the earned work. one of ibe hest books ibat bas bridge of the Rialto, the front of Sulat Nark, the

pablisted on the history of Venice. I met columns of the Prozzetta, etc. vad ide autboress, a very amlable woman, not

les grile than ours.

nova than his Theseus, it is pleasing to dolphins and tridents. One of the bronze esteem him as a man wbom we bave doors of the baptistry, covered with the admired as an artist.

figures of saints and Greek inscriptions. At the extremity of the piazza there appears to have been brought from the are three pili or Dag-masts which form basilic of Saint Sophia. The mosaic, on erly bore ibe glorious standards of Saint the eleventh or twelfth century, on the Mark, now replaced by the Austrian wall, represents the Baptism of Christ, flag. The pedestals of these masts are and is a warm animated composition in bronze, by Leopardo, and possess the St. John the Baptist, in bronze, placer elegance and taste of the Grecian artists. over the font, by Francesco Segala, i Independently of the great pains taken one of tbe good statues of the sixteenth by the artist, they are so beautifully po- century. I remarked in this chapel o Jished that the figures have all the ap- the baptistry, against the wall, the tomt pearance of having just quitted the work of the doge Andrea Dandolo, who diec shop; whereas they have been there in 1356, an intrepid warrior and skilsu upwards of three centuries, exposed to politician, the friend of Petrarch and the the injury of the air, the African siroccos, oldest historian of Venice, as his ancestor and to the misty saline spray of the was its greatest hero. The name o raging Adriatic.

Dandolo is so noble and great that I loved

to repeat it under the vaulted roofs of CHAPTER II.

Saint Mark, and had not my respect for

the solemnity of the place prevented me Church. – Baptistry. - Bronze gate. - The Firgin I should have made it re-echo there, ai della Scarpa.- Pala d'oro.- Historical stones.

an illustrious traveller did that of LeoHorses. - Lion of Saint Mark.- Campanlle.- Loggieltu.- Treasury,

pidas on the ruins of Lacedemon; but

The echo of Saint Mark would doubtles: The basilic of Saint Mark, begun about have died away as speedily as that of the end of the tenth century by the doge Sparta, although the heroic acts of the Orsolo, is of chequered architecture, a Venetian warrior are less ancient by mixture of Greek and Roman, but more fourleen centuries. I must copless lbat especially Gothic. A description of the my feelings were very different when, as mosaics, sculptures, basso-relievos, and I looked at the bronze door of the vestry arabesques with wbich it is ornamented, behind the allar, a work that occupied would be endless. There are brilliantly thirty years of Sansovino's existence, blended Grecian elegance, Byzantian I saw there in relievo the almost living luxury, and the talents of the Venetian head of Aretino beside those of Titian masters. On seeing these splendid com and the author, both of them his friends. partments, the golden arched roofs, the I could perceive in it all the presumppavement of jasper and porphyry, the lion of his talent and disposition; a mar five hundred columns of black, white, who made a trade of calumny, wbt and veined marble, of bronze alabaster, praised for a certain price, and who may vert antique, and serpentine, one would be considered the representative of the feel inclined to take this christian temple, licentious and ancient manners of Veexcept that is is somewhat too gloomily nice. The friendship between Tilian lighted, to be a palace of the Arabian Sansovino, and Arelino, if it does but Nights. Religion bas preserved all these liulle honour to the two artists, must riches, which might have been dissipated have contributed in an extraordinary in the speculations and enterprises of a degree to the good taste and splendour commercial and navigating people. The of Venice. These three men aided each wrecks of the magnificence of ancient other by mutual counsels, and the superb Rome ornament the cathedrals of the mo gate of Sapsovino is a kind of monument dern city, ils successor. Saint Mark bas of their close and constant union. Titian collected the costly spoils of Constan- could not always escape ibe importunate linople. Italy thus embraces the ruins pecuniary demands orihe greedy author, of these two imperial cities.

nor his calumnies when the money was The benitier, or holy-water vase, a not forthcoming.' The four Evangework of the fifteenth century, of porphyry, is supported by an aplique allar

See the following passage from one of Aretino's or Grecian sculpture, ornamented witb

letters to the duke of Florence, daled October, 1345 " La don puca quautità di dunari cbe M. Tiziano s

, ela pore assai avidità che tiene di accre3 932 ch'egli non dando cura e obbligo che

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coded the poetical and literary civilisa- | Catiline Orations did Rome and the
cinlisting of the Venetians wbich pre- eflcctually saved Venetian liberty, as the
tion of alber Italian cities. Ordered at
sostantinople by the republic towards | Tiepolo's party, the council of Ten was
the Pala loro in the Fabbriche di Vene-

lists of bronze in the choir, are also by | inscriptions that are almost barbarous ;
Sunsoring, and are considered as some the figures are stilt, plain, and sin-
obis fiaest works, also an altar behind | gular, but the ensemble has something
the bigh altar, ornamented with basso- dignified in it: one might compare it to
reiseros in marble and bronze gilt. an old poem or some ancient chronicle,

The Zeno chapel, the allar, and the interesting as regards the period 10
modement of the Cardinal are ihe inesti- which it belongs, but which it would
mable works of Pietro and Antonio Lom- be irrational lo lake as a model aller the
bardo, and Leopardo. Here is also the masterpieces of the great artists..
celebrated stalue of the Virgio cast by If the fickle and conquered people of

, with the cognomen of della Venice appear to have forgotten their scary, because the Virgin bas shoes on. history, the stones and monuments are The aitar, the statue of St. James, and indelibly impressed with it, and noaber masterpieces of Leopardo, are both where perhaps is the historical aspect Bolide and graceful. The finest of the of a place less defaced than there. A red Bumerous columns of Saint Mark in white marble pavement without any inscripmai black porphyry, is in the oratory of tion near to the sixteenth arcade, recalls Le Croes, nearest the altar on the epistle the most ancient recollections of Venice.

The twelve Apostles, the Virgin, It was there that Narses when he sucund St. Mark, in marble, placed above the ceeded Belisarius built the ancient church restrave which separates the body of of Saint Geminian, destroyed in the Le cbarch from the choir, are by The welith century, when the canal on the brebers Jacobello and Pietro - Paolo edge of which it stood was filled up. dadie Massegne, excellent Venetiao artists Every year the doge and senate viof the laiter end of the fourteenth cen sited the new church of Saint Geminian, et!, pupils of the Pisa school, who seem pulled down in 1809,' and they were Berlby or a more advanced cpoch. The reconducted with great pomp to this treat chandelier of Saint Mark, notwith identical stone, the original limit of the Hathng the oddness of its base, is con

piazza of Saint Mark. Not far from Bernd as one of the most remarkable thence, in a retired street, there is a small Farks of its kind for the taste and nature white stone marking the spot where the figures, and the elegance of the Boemondo Tiepolo, the Catiline of Ve

nice, perished; he was killed by a pot of The Pala d'oro, a species of mosaic flowers that a loo curious old woman ac. date the principal altar, is a' curious in leaning forward to see him as he was en ment of art belonging to the Greeks going, at the head of the conspirators, to -ta military and cominercial the Great council, a flower-pot which has

Immediately after the defeat of pre was augmented and enriched at

. Patice in the three following cenlu- dependently of the mementos of glory De kesbibits, symmetrically enchased and conquest which abound in Saiut opete its numerous ornaments, a series Mark, certain squares of red marble, se us and New Testaments, the life of of the famous interview where a disMark, the Apostles, ibe angels

, sembled reconciliation was alfected beBad ise prophets , with Greek and Latin iween Alexander III. and the emperor

zia, although a work of that kind belongs less to

the history of architecture than that of palating. con amico, de a dovere che si convenga a' The description is remarkable for its scrupulous *, bola a quello con istrana ansia attende che accuracy.

* See post, cbapters XIV. and XXIV. This elegant wapbara was the first who gave a detailed church occupied the present hall and staircase of

the Royal Palace,


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