that plain, ruins, Dûkah, 410, 411. Character of the Batîhah; Ghawârineh, 411.

Buffalos; probably the Reem (unicorn) of the Hebrew, 411, 412. Perennial streams,

412. Tents and reed huts of the Ghawârineh, 412. Et-Tell, the site of Bethsaida of

Gaulonitis or Julias, 413, 414.-Character of the upper Jordan, 414. Its valley be-

tween the lakes of Tiberias and the Hûleh; distance, 414, 415. Shores of the lake of

Tiberias, 415, 416. Storms, 416. Volcanic appearances, 416. Extent of the lake, 417.

June 21st. Way to Safed, 417, 418. Damascus road by the bridge, 418. Khân

Jubb Yûsuf, and legend of Joseph's pit, 418, 419. Ascent, view of Safed, harvesters,

419. High position of Safed with its castle, 420. Character of the place and people,

420, 421. Jewish quarter, 421. The castle, 422. Earthquake of Jan. 1, 1837,

causes its almost total destruction, 422, 423. Contributions and mission from Beirût,

423. Now partially rebuilt, 423. Destroyed in like manner in 1759 by an earth-

quake, 424. Apparently the central point of that of 1837; phenomena, 424.-His-

torical Notices: Safed probably not an ancient place; not Bethulia, 424, 425. No

definite notice of it before the crusades, 425. Its castle then first built, 426. Rebuilt

by the Templars, 427, 428. Later state, 428. Seat of the Jews and a celebrated

school; its Rabbis, 428-430. Meirôn, Jewish cemetery, etc. 430, 431. Situation

and climate of Safed, 431. Wide and splendid view, 432.-Further information as to

the Druzes; disappointment and change of plan, 432–434.

:

REGION OF THE HULEH. Excursion to Benît, 434. View of the lake, its charac-

ter and extent, 434, 435. Arable tract along the shore, 'Ain el-Mellâhah, 'Ain Belât,

435. Canal and plain north of the lake, 436. Name el-Hûleh, 436. Castle of Bâniâs,

437. Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon, 437. Jebel esh-Sheikh and Jebel Heish, 437.

Gorge of the Lîtâny, and Lebanon further south, Jebel Safed, 438. Wady et-Teim,

438. Merj 'Ayûn, 438.-View from Benît, 439. Historical Notices: el-Hûleh, Me-

rom, Samochonitis, 440. Jebel esh-Sheikh, Hermon, 440. Jisr Benât Ya'kôb, 441, 442.

SECTION XVI.

FROM SAFED BY TYRE AND SIDON TO BEIRUT.

Pages 443-500.

June 22d. Way from Safed to Sidon almost unknown, 443, 444. Village 'Ain ez-

Zeitûn, 444. Volcanic stones and extinct crater, 444, 445. El-Jish, Giscala, de-

stroyed by the earthquake, 445, 446. Cultivated region, Yârôn and Mârôn, 447.

Sarcophagus as a tomb, 447. Stop at Bint Jebeil; exposed to a night attack, 448,

449. Metâwileh, 448. We lodge in the house of one of the inhabitants; the house

described, 448, 449. Belâd Beshârah; butter for oil, 449. Districts el-Jebel and

esh-Shaghûr, 449.

June 23d. Sick muleteer left behind, 449, 450. Wooded region, 450. Village

Haddâta, castles of Tibnîn (Toron) and esh-Shŭkîf (Belfort), 450. Hist. Notices of

Tibnîn, 451-453. Hist. Notices of esh-Shukîf, 453, 454. Brow of long descent, 454.

Magnificent view of Tyre and its plain, 455. Secluded Wady 'Ashur, 455. Villages;

Kâna, Kanah, 455, 456. Cultivation of tobacco for exportation, 456. Tomb of Hiram,

a remarkable monument, 456. Râs el-'Ain, immense fountains, with reservoirs and

aqueducts for the supply of ancient Tyre, 457, 458. Not brought from Lebanon, 458.

Historical Notices, 459. We follow the ancient aqueduct running towards Ma'shûk,

459, 460. Reach Tyre across the isthmus, 461. Quarantine-guard, 461. Seek a place

for our tent, 461. American consular agents in Syria, 461. Go to the house of the

agent in Tyre, 461. Burdensome hospitality, 462. Imitation of Frank customs, 462.

June 24th. Christian sabbath, 462, 463. Bathe in the sea, 463. Reflections on

ancient Tyre, 463. Present town, 463-467. Peninsula and isthmus, 463, 464.

Port, now fast filling up, 464. Rocky western shore, 464. Strewed with columns in

the water, 464, 465. Wall of the port rests on columns, 465. Ruins of the ancient

cathedral, 465. Frederic Barbarossa, 466. Aspect of the city, population, earth-

quake, 466. Supply of water, 467. Historical Notices, 467, 468.
Middle ages,

468-470. Ruins and revival, 470. Site of Paletyrus, 471.

June 25th. Depart for Sidon, 471.

River el-Kâsimîyeh, Leontes, 472, 473.

ancient site, Ornithonpolis? 474. Sepulchres, ancient Mearah? 474. El-Khůdr, Sŭra-

fend, Sarepta, 474-476. 'Ain el-Burak and plantations, 476. Roman milestone, plain

of Saida, 476. Quarantine outpost, delay, 476. Second Roman milestone, 476. Ap-

proach to Saida, gardens and country-seats, 477. Stopped at the gate; encamp out-

side, 477. Native friend, 477. Visit to the American consular agent; hospitality,

sick child, 477, 478. The present city, its position, aspect, buildings, 478–480. Pop-

ulation, commerce, 479. Fruits and gardens, 479, 480. Lady Hester Stanhope, 480.

Historical Notices of Sidon, 480, 481. Middle ages, 481-483. Fakhr ed-Dîn, 483.

French factory and commerce, 483-485. Broken up by Jezzâr, 485.

June 26th. Way to Beirut, 485. Lazaretto and plague, 485. Nahr el-Auwaly,

ancient Bostrenus, 485, 486. Mulberry orchards, southern heights of Lebanon, 486.

Roman road, 487. Sandy cove and Khân Neby Yûnas, Jîyeh, mulberry groves, 487.

Character of this and other Khâns, 487. Site of Porphyreon, 487. Roman mile-

stone, promontory, 488. Nahr ed-Dâmûr, a wild stream, ancient Tamyras, 488, 489.

Battle of Antiochus and site of Platanum, 488. Khâns el-Musry, el-Ghŭfr, el-Khulda,

489. Numerous sarcophagi, 489. Promontory of Beirût, sand-hills, 489, 490. Plain

and immense olive grove, 490. Silk, and mulberry trees, 490. Grove of pines, sani-

tary cordon, 490. We encamp for the night, 491.

Fountain, 472. Khân el-Kâsimîyeh, 472.

Great Phenician plain, 473. 'Adlân, an

Enter Beirût June 27th; family of Messrs Thomson and Hebard, 491. Situation

and aspect of the town, 491, 492. Gardens and verdure around; houses of the Franks,

492. Prospect from our windows, 492. Nahr Beirût, ancient Magoras, 492. Leba-

non and its heights; white appearance, whence the name, 493. Teems with cultiva-

tion and villages, 493. The grove of cedars, 493. Temples on Lebanon, 493. Berytus,

not Berothah, 494, 495. Historical Notices, 494. Celebrated school of law, 494, 495.

Middle ages, 495, 496. Later history, 496, 497. Flourishing state, 496. Population,

497. Missionary station, 497. Recent bombardment, 497.

CONCLUSION. Plans, 497-498. Illness, 498. Voyage to Smyrna by way of Alex-

andria, 498, 499. Constantinople, 499. The Danube, 499, 500. Dangerous illness

at Vienna, 500.

SECTION XVII.

RELIGIOUS SECTS IN SYRIA AND PALESTINE

Pages 501-512.

CHRISTIANS.-Sources of information, 501. Numbers and sects, 501. Greeks, 502.

Are Arabs by birth and language, 502. The high clergy foreigners, 502. Clergy not

instructed, 503. Organization, 503. Greek Catholics, 504. Clergy are natives, 505.

College, 505. Printing-press of long standing, 505. Maronites, 505. Devoted to the

pope, 506.
Their districts and power, 506. College at 'Ain Warkah, 507. Syrians

or Jacobites, 507. Syrian Catholics, 508. Armenians, 508. Armenian Catholics, 508.

Latins, 509. Convents on Lebanon, 509. Protestants, not then tolerated as such, 509,

510. Interest of England in affording protection to Protestants, 510, 511.
This easily

accomplished, 511.

MUHAMMEDANS AND OTHER SECTS.-Muhammedans, 511. Metâwileh, 511. Druzes,

511. Nusairiyeh, 512. Ismailiyeh, 512.

XXXVI. TOMB OF AARON. Irby and Mangles' description of

their ascent of Mount Hor,

519-521

XXXVII. PETRA. Ancient names; not er-Rakîm, nor el-Hijr.

Only one city Petra; sources of confusion,

521-524

XXXVIII. CATASTROPHE OF SODOM. Letter in French from

XLI.

EARTHQUAKE AT SAFED. Rev. Mr Thomson's Report, 529-531

SECTION XI.

FROM JERUSALEM TO GAZA AND HEBRON.

ON returning from our eight days' excursion to the Dead Sea and Jordan, we found the plague slowly increasing in Jerusalem, and the alarm becoming more deep and general. The superior health-officer of the coast, from Beirût, had arrived; and there was reason to suppose that the city would soon be shut up, either by drawing a cordon of troops around it, or by closing the gates. The object of such a measure, in the true style of oriental despotism, is to hinder the spread of the plague among the villages, by cutting off all communication, and preventing the egress of persons from the city; the inhabitants of the latter being in this manner left, not only to suffer the actual horrors of the plague, but to see them aggravated among a population thus pent up in misery and filth, without fresh air, and without the ordinary supplies of fresh provisions from the country. Some of the other evils attendant on such a state of things, have already been alluded to.1 1

It had been our intention to remain some days in Jerusalem; and we had planned a short excursion to Bethany and St. Saba; and thence by way of the Frank mountain and Bethlehem to St. John's in the desert and Sôba. But the circumstances above detailed induced us to change our plan, and depart as soon as possible on a longer journey, before the rumour of the closing of the city should be spread abroad, and prevent perhaps our entrance into the larger towns. We therefore now stopped at Jerusalem but a single day, and took our departure for Gaza and Hebron; intending to make an excursion from the latter place to Wady Musa. We chose the direct route to Gaza through the mountains, instead of the usual one by Ramleh, as being less travelled. and less known; and one of our main objects in doing so, was to search for the site of the long lost Eleutheropolis. Our departure 1 See above, Vol. I. p. 249.