ROUTES TO THE VINEYARD.

9

of two barrels of pickled codfish every year. During the whole period of the settlement of the Vineyard from a time farther back than 1642, until it was finally and inseparably bound to Massachusetts in 1692, it was quite republican in the mode of its government. It was and is still, a place by itself-unique in its character and in the habits of its population. The point of the Vineyard, nearest Boston, is but little over eighty miles. There are two routes. You may go to N. Bedford and thence take the Nantucket Steamboat, which touches at Holmes' Hole- or to Falmouth through Plymouth and Sandwich, thence in the mail boat to the same point. The distance from N. Bedford to Holmes' Hole is twenty-seven miles from Falmouth, eight miles. Packets moreover run every day from N. Bedford to Edgartown, a distance of thirty-six miles. The trip from N. Bedford to Edgartown, whether you proceed the whole distance by water or touch at Holmes' Hole, and cross the Island in a regular stage or chaise, is exceedingly pleasant.

The superb city-like appearance of N. Bedford from Buzzard's Bay, (from this position it surpasses in beauty the principal cities of the Union) the Elizabeth Islands of various form, size and aspect, those elysian fields for the bleating lambs and their meek mothers; the broad Vineyard Sound; and the irregular shore of the Continent, here and there enlivened by a diminutive village-these, to say nought of the Vineyard itself, more or less attract

10

DOMESTIC ANIMALS.

the eye and serve to render the passage interesting. From Falmouth to the Vineyard it is common to sail in an hour or a little over, and from N. Bedford to Edgartown, not uncommon to sail in three hours and a half. The packets, though not large, are first rate, and, with a smart breeze and favorable tide, will run twelve knots the hour with safety.

not state.

The Vineyard is a paradise for sportsmen, abounding in all sorts of fish and wild-fowl. Forty species of the latter might be enumerated without comprehending near all. Domestic animals of all sorts, especially sheep, are raised upon the island. In 1807 there were about fifteen thousand. There has been some diminution since, and the exact number I canNantucket is somewhat indebted to the Vineyard for its meat as well as vegetable market. The roads on the island are good or bad according to the nature of the soil. The road to the south shore is as good as one can desire. That to Holmes' Hole is not good, though as it leads directly across the Island through a peculiar sort of woodland, and as the scenery is wild and novel, it affords quite an agreeable ride. Some parts of the Vineyard are covered with shells to the depth of three feet. They are mostly the scallop and quahaug. In Edgartown there is an acre and a half covered to this depth. These are, unquestionably, spots where the Abori-* gines had their abode. Their remains and implements are frequently exhumated in different parts of the Island.

ENTERPRIZE OF THE INHABITANTS.

11

The wonder has been expressed that the Islanders do not engage in the whale fishery. Ignorance is apt to wonder. The truth is, they are engaged in it, and own eight or nine first-rate ships. They were engaged in it before the revolutionary war, to the amount of fifteen or sixteen sail, but owing to some depressing losses occasioned by the war it was given up. I am informed that eighty captains of whaling ships belong to Edgartown. They sail mostly from N. Bedford and are esteemed the most skillful and trust-worthy that can be found. It has been recently the same as asserted in some of the public prints, that the inhabitants are unenterprising. This is also far from the truth. Ample evidence to the contrary is contained in what has just been stated. If more evidence is needed, we might add, that out of a population in Edgartown of fifteen hundred, (which number comprises all ages, male and female,) about three hundred of those who have arrived at maturity--the most active and vigorous, the bone and muscle of the community are, I may say, ever abroad and in all quarters of the globe: and further that, out of a population of three thousand on the island, about five or six hundred cannot be said to have a home upon the land, but go down and not only go down, but live upon the sea in ships and do business, most venturous business, upon the great waters.

Holmes' Hole is just what its name indicates. The village of the same designation is very prettily

12

SATURDAY

BAPTISTS.

situated at the head of the bay which runs far into the land. It has on each side a promontory extending boldly into the Sound. These promontories are denominated the East and West Chop; perhaps because they chop the sea. It contains some churches and is about one third the size of Edgartown. This latter place (pronounced Edgarton) is situated on the south-eastern shore of the Island and is as compact as a city. The fellow-feeling produced by their circumstances, their island-residence and sea-occupation, naturally concentrates inhabitants.

The soil is more sandy here than in the more western parts of the Island. Several wharves run out some distance from the shore, and as vessels ofttimes lie on all sides, in bad weather, from six to ten deep on the lee side, they give to the town an appearance of considerable business and enterprize. Many of the vessels are engaged in the fisheries, and belong to the Saturday Baptists of New London. This sect was new to me until I visited the Vineyard. There I learned that they keep strictly the Jewish Sabbath, and make for the harbor on Friday evening or Saturday morning. On this day, the crews of several vessels congregate together and have a regular service performed. Their character in a moral and religious point of view is represented very favorably. But to return, the houses are only two stories in height, neat, though many are unpainted. The best paint is worn off in a year or two by

HOUSES, &C. OF THE INHABITANTS.

13

Whitewash is

the salt air and the driving storms. almost, if not quite, as durable. Some of them are modern in their structure, painted white, and ornamented with Venetian blinds. A taste for a variety of colors prevails. It is not uncommon to see the body of a house of one color with the border or trimmings of another. The fences are touched off in like manner. Many of them, along the top, are hollowed into curves resembling those formed by chains suspended at each extremity. The houses have a social aspect, and remind one of the mild climate of a southern latitude, for almost every door opens upon an enclosed platform furnished with seats on either side. Handsome grass-plots ornamented with flowers, are attached to several houses in the village. An air of eomfort pervades the apartments and the tables are well supplied with good things. Bread-making is an art well understood and for it the inhabitants are famed Though Esh is so plentiful and excellent, I never saw it served up but twice in the course of a month, and then in consequence of some wish expressed to that effect. That nearest at hand is often least desired. A common blessing is often, for that reason, least prized. Pies and cake with tea and coffee are in many families put upon the table three times a day. The inhabitants are remarkable for their kind-heartedness; and, though a certain class are said to be grossly ignorant, the standard of intelligence is much higher than in the inland towns of our State. The propor