RODS AND LINES PROPER FOR ARTIFICIAL FLY FISHING, ETC.

As for your artificial fly-rod, the directions given in the first part of this treatise are sufficient, only be careful that the materials which it is composed of are well seasoned, and free from knots, and that the whole is exactly perfect in regard to symmetry.

The length of the fly-rod is generally from about fourteen to seventeen feet long; which is long enough for any one who understands fly-fishing to throw twelve yards of line, with one hand, and seventeen with both.

To make a fly rod, that will be exceedingly neat and pleasant in hand, you must observe the following method:

Procure a nice breadth of ash plank, free from knots, perfectly sound, and about seven feet long; let it be turned in the lath so as to run taper from the but-end, which should be so thick and no more than you can with ease grasp in your hand; then have it feruled, or bind it to a piece of hazel seven feet long, and in exact taper proportion to the ash. As you may not be able to get a piece of hazel so long, that will run perfectly taper, it may consist of two or three pieces; then add to the hazel a nice piece of yew (in the same proportion to the hazel as that is to the ash) two feet long, made round, taper, and smooth, and to that piece a bit of small round, and taper whale-bone, six inches long; then the rod will be completed; and if just synimetry is observed through the whole, it will be a most excellent one.

Some use deal for making the bottom of the

rod, because they say it is more light; but I in answer to that aver, that it is not half so strong and lasting, and that the ash, on account of its strength, may be turned in the lath, or planed down to be every jot as light as the deal, and that the angler, when he has hooked a good fish, need never fear it snapping short, as deal will, because it is the nature of the wood to bend almost double, and will always, if well seasoned, return to its former straightness. Let your rod, thus made, be ringed for the line to pass through, with small brass rings, about a foot distant from each other, and at the but-end let there be a spike made to screw in, which you will find very convenient; and you may, if you like to alter the colour of your joint (though it does not signify so much in ash as in deal, whose whiteness would scare the fish) first warm it before the fire, and then dip a feather in aquafortis, put it on the ash, and then chafe it with your hand, and it will make it a cinnamon, or rather a puce, or flea colour.

Your fly-line should be about thirty yards long, and wound on a small brass multiplying winch, which is to be placed on the but of your rod; then you must run the line through the rings beforementioned, and you may always command the length without the trouble of changing the line, and shorten it when you come to places encumbered with wood. The general length that you should have off your reel must be about four yards longer than your rod, nay, sometimes the line must be twice the length of the rod; for to fish fine and far off is the standing rule for trout fishing. But it will be a long time before you are able to throw a dib-line with nicety at the general length, yet as you can always lengthen or shorten it by

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means of the winch, you may, you are expert, and are a true lover of angling, after some trials accomplish it. Never encumber yourself with too much line at first, but increase the length of it as you find you make improvement; and as it is ten to one, that you lose a fly every time you cast your line, until you are arrived at some degree of perfection in doing it, it will not be amiss to practise sometimes without one. But let me return to the subject your line should run taper from the top of the rod down to the fly, that is, if the first link is composed of thirty-five hairs the next must be of thirty-four; so leaving out one hair in each link, till the whole is completed; then comes the silk-worm gut, on which you should whip all your hooks.

But the best lines for artificial fly-angling are those that are wove, and are all one piece, and are to be bought at any of the shops in London, where fishing-tackle is sold, and run taper like the lash of a coach-whip, and may be had at any length; as from thirty to forty yards, &c.

These are the only lines that can be used on a winch; because they have no knots to prevent them running glibly through the rings of the rod.

By the line being made taper, you will be able to throw it into any place you like with a greater exactness, and it will fall much lighter on the water, which will very much increase your sport.

The reader now being informed of the rod and lines best calculated for artificial fly-fishing, I shall in the next chapter give him a list of the materials he must be in possession of before he attempts to make flies, and afterwards give him the best instructions for making them.

CHAP. II.

A List of the Materials necessary for an Angler to have, and the best Method to make the Palmer and May Fly.

HOG'S DOWN,

NOMBED from the roots of the bristles of black, red, whitish, and sandy-coloured hogs; the white down you may have dyed to any color you like. It is excellent dubbing, because it will stand the water and shines well. To be a competent judge of the real colour of any dubbing, you must hold it between the sun and your eyes. This is a standing rule when you imitate a fly.

CAMEL'S HAIR,

Of a dark and light colour, and one in the medium of both.

BADGER'S HAIR,

The brown soft fur which is on the skin, and the blackest.

BEAR'S HAIR,

Grey, dun, light and dark coloured, bright brown, and shining brown.

SPANIEL'S HAIR,

From the different parts of a spaniel, especially from behind the ear, brown, dark brown, light brown, and black.

SHEEP'S WOOL,

Of all colours, both natural and artificial; you may have it dyed to any colour.

.SEAL'S FUR,

To be had at the trunk-makers; get it dyed. from the lightest to the darkest brown, and you will find it much better dubbing than cow or calf's hair.

MOHAIRS,

Of all colours, black, blue, purple, white, violet, yellow, and tawney, philomot from feuille morte, a dead leaf; and Isabella, which is a whitish yellow, or soiled buff colour.

COW'S HAIR,

The softest you can get from a black, brindled, and red cow; and of these colours, have brown, dark brown, light brown, and black.

COLT'S OR CALF'S HAIR.

These afford very good dubbing, and a variety, especially those hides that have been tewed, or

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