dressed in a skinner's lime-pit; but, as I said before, seal's fur dyed is much better than eithercow's or either of the hairs of these two; because it is not so harsh, and does not require so much trouble to work it on the hook; and observe further, that this fur is for small flies, and hog's down for large ones.

CAMLETS?

Both hair and worsted of all colours, blue, yellow, dun, brown, dark brown, light brown, red, violet, purple, black, horse-flesh, pink, and orange.

FURS,

Off the squirrel, especially his tail; a hare, the part off the neck which is a withered fern colour; fox-cub from the tail where it is downy and of an ash colour; an old fox, and old otter, otter-club, futimart, or filmert; a mole, a black cat's tail; a house-mouse, and water-rat; a marten, particularly from off the gills, or spots under the jaws, which is of a fine yellow. These are all to be had at the furriers.

HACKLES.

These are the feathers that hang from the head of a cock, down his neck, and likewise near his tail, they are particularly used in making the palmer fly; get the following colours of them, viz. red, dun, yellowish, white, orange, and black; let not the fibres of them be above half an inch long. Whenever you meet with a cock, whose hackle is

of a strong brown red, buy him, and make the most of the hackles. Note, the feathers of a bantam or cock chick, are good for nothing.

FEATHERS.

To make the wings of artificial flies, &c. it is necessary to be provided with all kinds of feathers; procure therefore those from the back, and other parts of the wild mallard or drake; of a partridge, particularly the red ones in the tail; those of a cock-pheasant's breast and tail; also the wings of a stare or starling, jay, land-rail, black-bird, throstle, fieldfare, water-coot, and a brown hen ; likewise the top, or cop, of a pevit, plover, or lap-wing, peacock's herl, green, copper-coloured, and white, also black ostrich's herl, and feathers from the neck and wings of a heron. Observe, that in many instances hereafter that you will meet with, where the mallard's feather is set down for the wings of an artificial fly, that the starling will be preferable, because it is of a finer grain, and will not imbibe the water so much.

CARPETS AND BLANKETS.

There is very good dubbing to be got from blankets, also from an old Turkey carpet; untwist the yarn, and pick out the wool, then separate the colours, wrap them up in different papers, and lay them by.

SILKS, ETC.

Of all colours, straw silk, gold and silver flat

ted wire, or twist; hooks in small chip boxes, with the number of the size of each marked on the outside: wax of all colours, and needles; a sharp pen-knife, and a small sharp pair of scissars, made quite angular, with large bows for the fingers.

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N. B. When you make the palmer-fly, suit the colour of the silk to the hackle you dub with ; dun hackle requires yellow silk; a black hackle, sky-blue silk; a brown, or red hackle, red silk; when you make flies that are not palmers, dub with silk that resembles the colour most predominant in the fly; and in making your flies, remember to mix bear's hair and hog's down, with your other dubbing, because they repel the water; make your flies always in hot sun-shiny weather, for your waxed silk will then draw kindly; and when you take the dubbing to imitate a fly, always wet it, and then you will be perfect in your imitation; for although the dubbing when dry may suit, yet when it is wet it may be quite another colour. Marten's fur is the best yellow you can use.

HOW TO MAKE THE PALMER AND MAY-FLY.

First lay all the materials by the side of you, viz. half a yard of fine round even silk worm-gut: half a yard of red silk, well waxed with wax of the same colour: a hook, the size No. 6: a needle: some strands of an ostrich's feather, and a fine red hackle: then take the hook, and hold it by the bend, between the fore-finger and thumb of your left hand, with the shank towards your right hand, and with the point and beard of your hook not under your fingers, but

nearly parallel with the tops of them: afterwards take the silk, and hold it likewise about the middle of it, with your hook, one part laying along the inside of it to your left hand, the other to the right; then take that part of the silk which lies towards your right hand, between the fore-. finger and thumb of that hand, and holding that part towards your left, tight along the inside of the hook, whip that to the right, three or four times round the shank of the hook towards the right hand; after which take the silk worm-gut, and lay either of its ends along the inside of the shank of the hook, till it comes near the bend of it: then hold the hook, silk, and gut tight between the fore-finger and thumb of your left hand, and afterwards give that part of the silk to your right hand, three or four whips more over both hook and gut till it comes near the end of the shank, and make a loop and fasten it tight: then whip it neatly again over both silk, gut, and hook, till it comes near the bend of the hook: after which make another loop, and fasten it again: then, if the gut should reach farther than the bend of the hook, cut it off, and your hook will be whipped on and the parts of the silk hang from the bend of it.

Having proceeded so far, wax the longest end of the silk again, and take three or four strands of an ostrich's feather, and holding them and the hook, as in the first position, the feathers to the left hand," and the roots of them in the bend of the hook, with the silk that you waxed last, whip them three or four times round, make a loop, and fasten them tight; then turning the strands to the right hand, and twisting them and the silk together, with the fore-finger and thumb of your right hand, wind them round the shank of the hook till you come to

the place where you first fastened, then make a loop and fasten them again; if the strands should not be long enough to wind as far as is necessary round the shank, when the silk gets bare you must twist others on it. Having performed this, take your scissars and cut the body of the palmer into an oval form, that is, small at the bend and the end of the shank, but full in the centre; do not cut too much of the dubbing off. Now both the ends of the silk are separated, one at the bend, another at the end of the shank, wax them both again; then take the hackle, hold the small end of it between the fore-finger and thumb of your left hand, and stroke the fibres of it with those of your right the contrary way from which they are formed; hold your hook as in the first position, and place the point of the hackle in its bend, with that side which grows nearest the cock upwards, and then whip it tight to the hook; but in fastening it, tie as few fibres as you can possibly avoid the backle being fast, take it by the great end, and keeping the side nearest the cock to the left hand, begin with your right hand to wind it up the shank upon the dubbing, stopping every second turn, and holding what you have wound tight with your left fingers, whilst with the needle you pick out the fibres you will unavoidably take in; proceed in this manner till you come to the place where you first fastened, and where an end of the silk is then clip off those fibres of the hackle which you held between your finger and thumb, close to the stem, and hold the stem close to the hook; afterwards take the silk in your right hand, and whip the stem very fast to the hook: then make a loop, and fasten it tight: take your penknife, and if that part of the stem next the shank

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