while the waters of the sea, and of sulphureous springs, equally were brought to flow within this "Domus Aurea."

According to Suetonius all the admiration that Nero expressed when he took possession of this wonderful palace was by saying-That now he could lodge like a Man.

His other acts of profusion were on a par. When he fished, his nets were of gold, and silk twist. He never wore any thing twice, and the mere charge of his wardrobe when he took a journey, employed a thousand servants. Vespasian built the Coliseum, and the Baths of Titus, from the materials of a part of this house.

410

La Via del Corso.

CHAPTER XXII.

CORSO OF ROME, AND FASHIONABLE PROMENADES-TOP OF ST. PETER'S, AND SUBTERRANEAN GALLERIES, AND TOMBS -PALAZZO SCIARA-D" CORSINI-BORGHESE-FARNESEFARNESINA-VILLA BORGHESE, AND THEIR RESPECTIVE CHEFS D'ŒUVRE OF PAINTING AND SCULPTURE-DAPHNE -ROMAN CIVILITY-THE PANTHEON-ANCIENT AND MODERN APPROPRIATION—ANTONINE AND TRAJAN COLUMNS— TRAJAN FORUM—CLOACA MAXIMA—MAUSOLEUM OF ADRIAN, OR CASTLE OF ST. ANGELO.

SUNDAY.-The Via del Corso, or Bond S' of Rome, has to day, as usual on Sundays, been strung from one end to the other with a double row of equipages. The fashion is thus-the English Protestant Chapel in the morning: Vespers in La Capella del Coro at St. Peter's at three o'clock, where there is both chaunting and the organ, sometimes very impressive; then all the world of fashion promenade the spacious, and splendid nave of the church, jostling the devotees who are dispersed in various groups upon their knees, or are collected round the shrine of the Saint: finally the fair signore, and their cavalieri mount their carriages, and away to the Corso till dinner.

As a promenade, St. Peter's, if it be not derogating from its dignity so to appropriate it, is nevertheless matchless. Ever warm, pleasant, and

Top of St. Peter's.

411

equable in its temperature, owing in some measure to the thickness of its walls, no ranks of fashion can be sufficiently numerous to crowd, or incommode its aisles; and, if conversation should flag, or the mind seek some other object of adoration than a fair face, only to look around, above or below, is to view at every point the most varied, and stupendous beauties.

We have lately mounted to the top of the Cathedral, even into the Ball, and have also descended to the subterranean below. It is only by mounting, and by walking round the two inner galleries of the great dome that a more just, and perfect idea can be formed of the amazing altitude, with the wonderful proportions, and dimensions of the whole building; by going still higher, curiosity, and science may be both gratified; every part is kept in the utmost order and perfection, while a certain number of workmen are always retained for this purpose. In the inner galleries you are struck with the freshness, and thorough preservation of the upper gildings, paintings, and mosaics: on the outside every arch, and window, is numbered, and every dome, and chapel, is named with reference to the plan below, while on the roof you walk, or range through streets of columns, and cupolas, never seen by the eye beneath.

The Ball, or golden apple, as it seems from below, will hold about sixteen people; on the roof

412 Subterranean Galleries of St. Peter's.

of the church are a range of workshops, unseen beneath, being masked by the majestic dome, and eighteen surrounding cupolas; the ascent to this elevation is by staircases practised between the outer and inner walls, and the slope so gradual and easy that you might ride up with safety on a mule.

This examination of the structure of the building externally, is perhaps as gratifying and scientific, or at least as striking, as the admiration of its beauties internally, in detail.

To the subterranean galleries I was guided by a priest, and by torch-light. Here repose the mortal remains of many illustrious pontiffs and martyrs; of the Emperor Otho II, and of Charlotte, Queen of Jerusalem, together with ancient sacred pictures and bassi-rilievi. A miraculous image of the Virgin was also shown to us, affirmed to have effected prodigies per le donne partorienti. The present cathedral having been erected on the site of the old one built by Constantine, the original pavement is here kept; and in one chapel more sacred than all, and more adorned, are said to be the bodies of St. Peter, and St. Paul: their heads, I have mentioned, are at St. John's Lateran. Further, in these dormitories of the dead are recorded the birth, death, &c. &c. of the issue of James II, who were self-styled James III, Charles III, and Henry IX, alias Cardinal York.

Palazzo Sciarra.

413

Finally, my account of St. Peter's closes by briefly noticing the Vestry, built at a most enormous expence by Pius VI, detached from the Cathedral, but every way worthy of it.

Palaces. Almost all that I have lately written of Rome has related to its antiquities, its buildings, &c. nor have I much diversified my narrative by episodes of anecdote, or by sketches of modern manners and society. In truth, I have hitherto been comparatively indifferent on this point, and though I could avail myself of introductions into good society here, I have, at least for the present, preferred the study of the past to the courtship of the existing.

The only introduction I particularly wished was a presentation to the Pope, and this I am promised; but as His Holiness does not intend to receive company just at this sacred season, such presentation will be deferred till my return from Naples. Thus therefore I continue to write on the old topics; but, however, for the sake of variety, let us now speak of some of the modern palaces, and enumerate some of their capi d'opera.

Palazzo Sciarra.-The last room contains the following choicest pictures-Leonardo da Vinci's Modesty and Vanity. Titian and Family, painted by himself. Two Magdalens by Guido, though not finished in his usual style; one of which is known as La Magdelaine des Racines: and the