Letters Written During a Tour Through North Wales, in the Year 1798, and at Other Times

Bridge over the Onion-Ruins of Cymmer Abbey- This con-

founded by some antiquarians with the Abbey of Cwim-bir in
Radnorshire-Nanneau Park; celebrated for the favour of its
deer--Cataract of Rhaiadr ddu- Beautiful falls of the rivers
Cayne and Mawddach--Fine road on the banks of the æstuary
-- Sublime appearance of clouds breaking over the biforked

top of Cader Idris-Barmouth–Description of this fashionable

bathing place-Cheap accommodations-Tradition that Sarn

Bardrig was part of the Low Land Hundred swallowed up by an

jonundation of the sea --Proofs that the sea has been making

gradual advances on the western and south west coasts of this

kingdom-Paralysing effects of war-Sympathising with the

distressed not only right, but salutary..

102

LETTER VI.

Sublime view of Cardigan Bay-Corsy Gedol-Woods affected by

the strong west winds put on the appearance of the celebrated

wood of Margam-Numerous British antiquities in its vicinity-

Castell dinas Cortin-Llyn Bodlyn famous for its char, and Llyn

Irddim for an extraordinary kind of trout-Miserable towns of

Harlech-Supposed a Roman station-Noble castle, not origi-

nally built by Edward the First; the last in North Wales that

held out for the unfortunate CharlesCromlech of Cæt012

Arthur-Extraordinary Phenomenon here 1624 with its probable

- Proceed over the mountains with a guide; his curious and

impressing history-Antiquarians frequently the dupes of enthusi.

asm- Beautiful lakes of Llyn Tegwyn isa and ucha---Effects of a

moonlight night-Rhyd Velin-Tany Bwlch-Hanging woods,

and elegant seat of Mr. Oakly-Regenerated meadows--Near

approximation of the vegetable and animal kingdoms-Vale of

Maentwrog justly styled the Tempe of Wales ---Pulpit Hugh

Llwyd-Hill of Micknant, and history of the men of Ardudwy,

120

cause

LETTER VII.

Ascend the Bwlch-Fine view of the vale-Difficulty of the road,

and dreary aspect of the country-The eye relieved by the varied

prospect from Moel Wyn yr Hydd-Description of an alpine storm

-More frequent and heavy rains in mountainous countries than

in champaign ones-Pont aber glas Llyn-Salmon Leap-Cop-

per mine--Bedd Kelert; origin of the name—Church, though

small, said to be the highest in these parts; formerlya priory of Au.

gustine Monks of the class called Gilbertines-Account of these

double monasteries—Wandering Island-Gyraldus defended

Lake of Llyn Cawellyn noted for a fish called Torgoch, the guilt

char-Miserable cottages ; with reflections on the wants of man-

Cross the Rhythell-Caernarvon the Segontium of the Romans

description of-The town, harbour, and castle ; history of

Extraordinary mode in which the Welsh were duped out of the

last shadow of their independence by the wary Edward-

Reflections on the changes it has witnessed and the vanity of

ambition.....

143

LETTER VIII.

The ease with which some travellers obtain the objects of their pursuit

more than others--Prevented visiting the summit of Snowdon-
Snowdonia-Llyn padera-Ruins of DolbadernCastle-Llyn peris
-Village of Llanberis-A Ffynnon vair or holy well with two
nonocular fish-Men endued with remarkable strength-Anec-
dotes of Foulke Jones Inhabitants of this district remarked for
longevity--Llanberis copper mine--Height of Snowdon-
Mountains in its vicinity-Slate mines-Origin of the name
Account that snow does not melt for years confuted— Most
eligible ascents--Plants peculiar to this place-Monocular fish-
Grotesque appearance of Glyder Vawr-Refutation of the infidel
idea that nature generates new species--Horrid, fissure of
Twll du--Lichens ; dye prepared from them-Singular appear.
ance of Trevaen-Rocking Stones on the top of the Glyder
bach-Phenomenon called Deear Dorro-Untenable geology of

Mr. Pennant-Reflections on the theories of Whiston, Buffon and

Hutton-Want of wood-Folly of stripping a country of its

principal ornaments--Sheep different from those of inclosed

countries— Mode of life the farmers lead ; their havodtys and

hendrefs-Ingenuity--Haymaking; mode of preserving their hay

from the frequent tornadoes-Nant Hwynant-Dinas Emris-

British Prophet Merlin-Reflections on this retired country and

character of its inhabitants...

. 177

LETTER IX.

Delightful ride from Caernarvon to Bangor-- Beautiful appearance of

the Menai-- Bangor ; its description--Gross error of the Author

of A Walk Through Wales in taking this for Bangor Iscoed in

Flintshire-Massacre of the monks~The cathedral--Borth, a

ferry into Anglesea—Lamentable affair between the Bishop and

his Chancellor-Charming situation of Bangor-Author's wish

--Salmon snare-Port Penhryn-Manufactory of cyphering

slates—Slate trade— Penhryn Hall Drinking horn-Ancient

mode of drinking--Church of Llandegai--Monument of Arch-

bishop Williams-Reflections on his character. . . 217

LETTER X.

Rich views on the road to Aber-Waterfall--Once a palace of the

North Wallian Princes here-Lavan sands --Celebrated pass of

Penmaen mawr; formerly much dreaded— A new road formed by

voluntary subscription, not now perfectly safe-Height of the

mountain-British post of Braich y ddinas, the strongest the

Welsh had—-Parish of Dwygyvylchi, a feast for antiquaries.

Conway_Pearls found near–The Conovium of Antoninus

Town with its noble castle built by Edward the First-Singular

anecdote_Remarkable instance of human fecundity recorded

in its church-Gathering fuci and making barilla-Peninsula

of Gogarth abounds with a great variety of plants ---Gloddaeth..

Superstition of Maelgwyn-Ruins of Diganwy castle--Puffins ;

history of that curious bird - Fortifications of Dinas-Maen-Sigl,

or the self-moving stone-St. Trillo's Chapel--Nature of ty the

-Good to be derived from the meanest objects in creation. . 240

LETTER XI:

Luxuriant vale of the Conway-Picturesque scenery about Portke

Lowyd- Anecdotes on the bard Taliesn-Trefriw-Coracles, the

vitilia navigia of Pliny--Llanrwst-Elegant bridge by Inigo

Jones-Delicious views up and down the Conway-Monuments

in the church worthy attention-Guedir -- Time the use of glass

became general-Chesnut a native of this island-Dreary morass

relieved by the sight of Voelas-Column with ancient inscription

Ispytty Evan-Curious mode of mowing-Cyrniogeu-Cer-

rig y Druidion-Kist vaen-Striking scenery of Pont yr Dyffws-

Verdant' vale of Edernion- Corwen-Female tonsor-Fabulous

tradition respecting the sword of Owen Glyndwr-College for

clergymen's widows-Decent mode of conveying corps for inter-

ment-Defeat of Henry Second near this place - Brief history of

the celebrated British chieftain Owen Glyndwr ..

275

LETTER XII.'

Llangollen Vale-River Dee-Mode of washing-Llangollen, its

bridge one of the three elegant things in Wales --Neat cottage
of Lady E. Butler and Miss Ponsonby-Ruins of Castell Dinas
Bran; its history-Pillar of Eliseg-Valle Crucis Abbey-
Beauties of this ruin-Time when Monasteries were introduced
into Wales--Soliloquy-Sensations excited on a sight of religious

ruins-Clawdd Offa, famous boundary between England and

Wales, confounded with one of more recent date called Wat's

Dyke-Chirk park and castle; seventeen counties seen from an

elevation near the mansion---brief history of the rise, duration

and fall of Lord Marcher's encomium on the Welsh ....309

LETTER XIII.

Persons of the Welsh described ; dress, food, character-Pleasing

anecdote of their brotherly kindness-Fondness of genealogies--A

pedigree given-Customs in courtship, marriage and at funerals

-Difference between the clergy and churches of North and

South Wales

348

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Letters Written During a Tour Through North Wales, in the Year 1798, and at ...