Letters Written During a Tour Through North Wales, in the Year 1798, and at Other Times

parting with friends-Cann's or Canons's Office Inn miserable
accommodations-Description of its guests-Bwlch of Edwyn
-Accident of a travelling party-Dreariness of the country-
Simplicity of its inhabitants-Mallwyd, recluse yet picturesque
situation-Church strewed with rushes-Remarkable situation of
the altar-Reflections on bigotry Large yews in the church-
yard-Conjectures on the reason for their being planted in such
places-River Dovey; its bridge and waterfall-Pass over the
Clayedog-Excursion up the vale of Dovey-Black and red
grouse-Mode of shooting them-Turbaries-Mode of working
them-Dangerous employment of carrying peat and turf, the ge-
neral fuel of the country; its nature and difference; tracts sup-
posed injurious to vegetation in its vicinity-Mode of cultivation
in this mountainous district-Arran Mowddwy-St. Tydecho―
Bwlchy Groes.-Bala-Stocking manufactory-Tommeng y Bala

Llyn Tegid, or the fine Pimble Meer, famous for a fish called
gwiniad-Dee, fabled to pass through it without intermingling
its waters-Striking landscape on the margin of the lake-
Conjectures on the name of Dee-Arran Fowddy-Fall of the
Cowarch-Dinas Mowddy-Barbarous custom of commuting
the violation of chastity-Coinparison with the present age. 46

LETTER IV.

Vale of the Kerris-Old lead mines-Dolgelleu-Odd circumstance
at the Lion Inn-Remarkable enmity the Welsh bear to the Irish
-Parliament assembled here by Owen Glyndwr-The Church
paved with flags, rare for N. Wales-Trade in webs or coarse
cloths--Mountain of Cader Idris-Llyny Gader Curious struc-
ture and economy of aquatic plants-Erroneous idea respecting
lava-Foxes and goats numerous-Immense view from the
summit of the mountain-Insignificancy of Man in the scale
of being-Property of some plants to propagate their species in
a twofold manner-Picturesque beauty of the Vale of Taly
Llyn--Otters abound in the vicinity-Description of, and their
ingenious, but predatory, arts-Reflections on the very few
animals yet domesticated, or inade subservient to the use of

LETTER V.

Bridge over the Onion-Ruins of Cymmer Abbey-This con-

founded by some antiquarians with the Abbey of Cwim-bir in

Radnorshire-Nanneau Park; celebrated for the flavour of its

deer Cataract of Rhaiadr ddu-Beautiful falls of the rivers

Cayne and Mawddach-Fine road on the banks of the estuary

-Sublime appearance of clouds breaking over the biforked

top of Cader Idris-Barmouth-Description of this fashionable

bathing place-Cheap accommodations-Tradition that Sarn

Bardrig was part of the Low Land Hundred swallowed up by an

innundation of the sea-Proofs that the sea has been making

gradual advances on, the western and south west coasts of this

kingdom-Paralysing effects of war-Sympathising with the

distressed not only right, but salutary....

LETTER VI.

102

Sublime view of Cardigan Bay-Corsy Gedol-Woods affected by

the strong west winds put on the appearance of the celebrated

wood of Margam-Numerous British antiquities in its vicinity-

Castell dinas Cortin-Llyn Bodlyn famous for its char, and Llyn

Irddim for an extraordinary kind of trout-Miserable towns of

Harlech-Supposed a Roman station-Noble castle, not origi-

nally built by Edward the First; the last in North Wales that

held out for the unfortunate Charles-Cromlech of Caton

Arthur-Extraordinary Phenomenon here 1624 with its probable

cause-Proceed over the mountains with a guide; his curious and

impressing history-Antiquarians frequently the dupes of enthusi

asm-Beautiful lakes of Llyn Tegwyn isa and ucha-Effects of a

moonlight night-Rhyd Velin-Tany Bwlch-Hanging woods,

and elegant seat of Mr. Oakly-Regenerated meadows-Near

approximation of the vegetable and animal kingdoms-Vale of

Maentwrog justly styled the Tempe of Wales-Pulpit Hugh

Llwyd-Hill of Micknant, and history of the men of Ardudwy,

120

LETTER VII.

Ascend the Bwlch-Fine view of the vale-Difficulty of the road,

and dreary aspect of the country-The eye relieved by the varied

prospect from Moel Wyn yr Hydd-Description of an alpine storm

-More frequent and heavy rains in mountainous countries than

in champaign ones-Pont aber glas Llyn-Salmon Leap—Cop-

per mine-Bedd Kelert; origin of the name-Church, though

small, said to be the highest in these parts; formerlya priory of Au

gustine Monks of the class called Gilbertines-Account of these

double monasteries-Wandering Island-Gyraldus defended-

Lake of Llyn Carwellyn noted for a fish called Torgoch, the guilt

char-Miserable cottages ; with reflections on the wants of man—

Cross the Rhythell-Caernarvon the Segontium of the Romans

description of―The town, harbour, and castle; history of

Extraordinary mode in which the Welsh were duped out of the

last shadow of their independence by the wary Edward—

Reflections on the changes it has witnessed and the vanity of

ambition.....

143

LETTER VIII.

The ease with which some travellers obtain the objects of their pursuit
more than others--Prevented visiting the summit of Snowdon-
Snowdonia-Llyn padern-Ruins of DolbadernCastle-Llyn peris
-Village of Llanberis-A Ffynnon vair or holy well with two
monocular fish-Men endued with remarkable strength-Anec-
dotes of Foulke Jones-Inhabitants of this district remarked for
longevity-Llanberis copper mine-Height of Snowdon-
Mountains in its vicinity-Slate mines-Origin of the name--
Account that snow does not melt for years confuted-Most
eligible ascents--Plants peculiar to this place-Monocular fish-
Grotesque appearance of Glyder Vawr-Refutation of the infidel
idea that nature generates new species-Horrid, fissure of
Twll du-Lichens; dye prepared from them-Singular appear-
ance of Trevaen-Rocking Stones on the top of the Glyder
bach-Phenomenon called Doear Dorr-Untenable geology of