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for centuries chastised rapacity and injustice, and made oppression and tyranny tremble on the Throne. The mournful reliques of whose skill and valour furnish the Antiquary with curious objects for research; and lead the feeling mind to admire the courage that defended them, to detest the spirit that caused their erection, and to weep over the lost independence of a people, after so many struggles for its preservation. A country where a plain, honest, hospitable people, uncorrupted by wealth, and not enervated by luxury, still keep the noiseless tenour of their way; where calm content and bliss delight to dwell. Thou land of charms farewel! And envied tenants, now farewel!

ye, its

LETTER' XIII.

DEAR SIR,

IN

my

former letters I have frequently adverted to the peculiarities of the people of North Wales; and some of their local customs have been noticed en passant. The design of the present is, to detail a few observations that could not so well fall in with connected narrative.

1

From a variety of causes, the Welsh have changed but little in their persons or manners for centuries; so that the observations of Gyraldus, in the reign of Henry II. (A. D. 1188,) will, in many respects, apply to the present inhabitants of North Wales. The modern Cambrian has the face rather broad than long, the space between the temples wide; the cheek-bones prominent; the hair black, and the eyes dark; these, frequently accompanied with a fair skin and roseate bloom in many of the females, gives them an air of animated vivacity peculiarly pleasing, and may entitle them to be considered as beautiful, when its proper concomitant, proportion,

The author of A Walk Through Wales, when he describes them as having blue eyes and yellow hair, must have had in view the people of the coast of South Wales; where the mixture of Flemmings, Normans, and English, has scarcely left a single trait behind of the person or character of the ancient Welsh,

may be wanting. The men are in general rather below than above the middle stature. They are thickset, with limbs rather small; and though instances have sometimes occurred of prodigious strength, yet, like their ancestors, they are light and active, more free than strong; and the modern, like the ancient Briton, is not very attentive to food or clothing. The latter consists of a flannel jacket and breeches for the men; and a lindsey jacket and petticoat, with a round felt hat, for the women; while both sexes are seen to climb the craggy steep, and trip over the thorny plain naked to the knee. But they are not destitute of shoes and stockings; these they carry in their hands to market and to church; and at the next adjacent stream they sit down on a stone, wash their feet, and put them on. Returning, they perform the same ceremony, and lay them up again.* Their food is equally coarse and scanty. Oatmeal cake or barley-bread, and potatoes; and their drink the diodgriafel. This course is sometimes varied by hung-goat, dried fish, cheese made of goats' and sheep's milk, and buttermilk, grown acid from keeping. The cakes are manufactured by the mistress of the house; the' meal is made into paste with water, and spread thin

When Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, gave Henry the sage advice, not to provoke the Welsh to insurrection, the Lords gave for answer, "There could be no fear about such a bare-footed rabble." The king soon found, that it is easier to despise than to conquer an enemy; and what gave rise to the contempt was what rendered them always formidable and frequently victorious.

upon the backstone over the fire, to bake. The colour raises a dislike, otherwise the taste is not disagreeable. Wheat flour may be found in some houses, but, as yeast is rare, there is consequently little fermented bread.

Refinement has not yet deadened the natural feelings of the Welsh, nor produced that apathy of behaviour which prevails among a more polished people. The fondness they evince for their country, and tenacious adherence to their native language, is not more remarkable than their singular attachment for each other. This spirit, which pervades the community, in individuals is most eminently displayed. Zeal for the welfare of every branch of a numerous family, which produces reciprocal protection and respect between the higher and lower classes, frequently calls forth a spirit into action rarely to be met with elsewhere; and has, on some occasions, been exhibited in a manner, that, to those narrow minds which make self the centre of every ray of exertion, would appear extravagance and romance. Take one illustration.

In consequence of the poverty of the soil and state of husbandry, the harvest is very late; and frequently, from the uncertain state of the weather, a difficulty occurs of procuring the scanty crops upon which their existence depends. It often happens, that the strength of hands is not adequate to the labour, and a poor farmer is in danger of being ruined. But there is a natural sympathy amongst the Welsh, that provides for this adverse circum

stance. Sensible of the evil arising from a scanty crop badly housed, they form societies of assistance, called Cymmorthean, Cynhauaf. As soon as one, or two farmers have finished their own, or what portion is ready, they immediately repair, with their servants and horses, to assist their backward neighbour. This they do without any other fee or reward than their maintenance, and the consciousness that arises from the performance of an act of brotherly kindness. We have seen numbers engaged in this amiable occupation, and the pleasure they felt might be deduced from their clamorous exultation. If the sky lowers, and gathering clouds forbode a storm, likely to mar their friendly intentions, the noise increases, exertion is redoubled, and they seem more anxious to secure their neighbour's produce than their own. The desirable end accomplished, they return with shouting to the house, where, congratulating the farmer's good fortune, they express their mutual happiness in acts of cheering festivity.

It was not till I had witnessed these scenes of philadelphic labours, that I fully understood the elegant allusion of the prophet, when speaking of the pleasures of the favoured people of GOD:-" They joy before thee, according to the joy in harvest." Isai,

ix. 3.

Nor does this strong patriotism and brotherly affection, this love of their country and their neighbour, exclude the attention to the stranger. That endearing affection, hospitality, that disinterested principle, which makes the wants and the comforts