posed several schemes to him, in which I promised to assist him; and which for their eligibility, perfectly met his approbation. But a most unfortunate and insurmountable barrier was placed in the way of his advancement. Richards's wife had never breathed in any other place, and partly from prejudice, and partly from the strength of habit, she was possessed of an invincible" Soli natalis amor :" so much so, that a spare meal once a day, and a bed of rushes, appeared preferable in sight of the castle, to plenty and comfort out of it. Richards had an affection for his wife, and as the money he had lost in the wool trade chiefly came by her, he had accustomed himself to humour her caprice, and submit to her requests, more than was consistent with a spirit of prompt and determined resolution, necessary for emigration and adventure. She fancied, if removed from this beloved spot, she should instantly die; and poor Richards, however reluctantly, gave up to her weakness. "Thus (to use his own words) am I chained down to this wretched spot, without the least opportunity of bettering my condition, or the most distant hope of deliverance from this forlorn state; but what is suggested by the prospect of the death of one I sincerely love ; while my children, destitute of employment, are growing up under my roof in want and idleness. And I have little else to do but to behold, without the power of remedying it, and to brood over the probable consequent evils." This brief sketch, drawn up from his own artless tale, will, I trust,

induce the future visitor of Harlech to inquire for this able and honest guide; and finding him essentially useful, as we have done, bestow a small mite to cheer the gloom of his unhappy lot.

1

With Richards in our van, we engaged in the arduous undertaking of reaching Tany Bwlch that night. We ascended a difficult stair-case path, up the steep side of a craggy mountain, and took a North-easterly direction over the trackless plain, known to our guide by several upright stones, called Maen hirion, and concentric circles of stones, many of them pebbles, said to have been formed for religious purposes in the ages of Druidism. A tumulus and Carnedd, larger than the rest, is distinguished by the title of King Ingo's Tomb. But as no name of that kind is found in History, except within the period when the Principality was christian, it is improbable his remains should be pointed out by an cmblem of Heathen superstition. As the place is called Bontleff Hîr, or the loud Shout to Battle, it was probably the scene of some bloody contest, and a Pagan chieftain who fell in the conflict, might have been here interred. One conjecture I will hazard, from the appearance of these and other similar works, that though some of the Cromlechs, &c. may have been remnants of druidical altars, and some of the Carnedds, &c. monuments of the mighty fallen in battle, yet it is more than probable that the greater number of them have been the work of shepherds, as an amusement to fill up their leisure

*

hours while tending their flocks, or to clear the pasture for the sake of grass. As this conjecture will probably bring down the ire of the whole Camdensian School upon my head, I will shield myself under an observation of the author, (Mr. Windham,) of a Gentleman's Tour through Monmouthshire and Wales.

"I suspect that many of our Druid antiquaries are by far too sanguine in their favourite pursuit, and that they attribute to religious uses, what was originally intended only for private advantage. A profusion of learning has been expended upon the Carnedds of Wales, when I am convinced that many of those heaps of stones were put together for no other reason than that the rest of the field might afford a clearer pasture.

"In the melancholy waste between Pont Aber Glasllyn and Llynywenwn, I observed many modern carnedds, which had been thrown up in large piles by the industrious inhabitants, for that profitable purpose. I pass no reflection on the single monuments, or on the circular upright stones, which abound in most parts of this country. These may, perhaps, deserve notice, but a stranger would scarcely make them the principal object of his Tour; as they will not bear a comparison with Stone Henge or Aberz, either in magnitude of stones, or regularity of design." P. 142.

*It is a general custom in Merioneth and Caernarvon, to make walls for no other purpose but to clear the ground from the large stones, that every where hinder the use of the plough.

We passed the small lake named Llyn Tegwyn isa, mear which is the small village and church of Llan Tegwyn: a little farther, environed with lofty mountains, is the fine lake of Llyn Tegwyn ucha ; which, from the transparency of its waters, as well as the diversity of the surrounding scenery, merits its name of Fair and Lovely. The moon was now rising, and her silver beams, reflected from the waters of the lake, heightened the beauty of this recluse but enchanting scene. The road is a narrow and dangerous path along the shelf of a perpendicular rock, on the left side of the lake, which is composed of shale or shivering slate, and many impending projections over-hang the traveller's head, and threaten him with destruction. We appeared shut in by the mountain barrier, with nothing but craggy walls of rock on each side, and before us the dismal gloom of an impenetrable forest, which the pale beams of Cynthia represented in all the grotesque shapes, calculated to increase the appearance of horror, and fill the imagination with ideas of terror, Every moment we appeared to be precipitating into the lake, by the deception of nocturnal vision; while the frequent cautions of our guide, who himself was not destitute of fear, served to strengthen our appre hensions of danger. We descended into a deep glen or ravine, so thick with forest trees and underwood, as scarcely to admit a ray of light, though the night was clear, and the moon at full. We passed over a black and dismal stream, called Velyn Rhyd, or the Yellow Ford, and soon got into the turnpike

road, near the village of Maen Twrwg; crossing a bridge of three arches over the Dwyryd, our guide, with accents of joy, pronounced the inn of Tany Bwlch! It was now about two hours past midnight, and the people had been long retired to sleep; but the landlord, when he had heard our story, with great alacrity arose, and furnished every comfort the house afforded. Time had made changes here: the lady who kept this inn a short time ago, so celebrated for her attention to travellers, was dead; yet it is but justice to say, that we found the accommodations equally good, and Cartwright not behind his predecessor in point of attention and civility. This inn has been recently fitted up, in a peculiar style of neatness, by Mr. Oakly, and forming the central bouse between the plain and mountainous country, is a great accommodation to travellers. The village of Maentwrog, with its white-washed cottages, is truly picturesque. It takes its name from a large upright stone, called the Stone of St. Twrog, standing in the centre of the vale. The hills are moderately high, and thrown about in pleasing variety; the sides in general are well wooded, especially to the North, being defended from the violence of the West winds. In one of these native hanging groves, stands Tany Bwlch Hall, the elegant seat of Mr. Oakly; who, at a great expense, has taken advantage of the munificence of nature, by cutting walks and vistas through the woods for a considerable extent. The house just peeps through the trees, and the majestic oak, and spreading beech, wave their branches in