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made by a bountiful government to seen within) from a yelling horde of keep people merry-and quiet? And red barbarians, who, it must be owned, there be greater things than these :- look abductive in the extreme; those The giant's strength, which succumbs poor fellows, so actively engaged in not to a pyramid of pig mies, and the green icebergs with Arctic bears, make fat woman's charms, proclaimed in one shudder; while the Indian, ia act stentorian tone, with drum and cym- to throw the compulsory lasso over the bal: look along that line of canvass head of a tiger, whom he waits for which records in glowing colours, the with such sang froid, makes one sweat. acta et gesta of Napoleon; or, scarcely In short, visit the Champs Elysées on less attractive, that group of bold Eu- one of the “ trois jours," and see if I ropeans engaged in rescuing Circas. have overcharged the picture. sian loveliness (for two sous it is to be


You start on this journey from year, for an amalgam of tallow and the Porte St Denys, the arch of blacking, than it has cost him for half “ Gladness and of Sadness," as king- his life in svap: See how complacently loving chroniclers have styled it, he looks on the shining surface now through which all the early monarchs in progress, and with what satisfaction made at least two journeys. By this he pays the coin which requites the portal they entered Paris en rois; indispensable, and the only indispenthrough the same, their funeral cor- sable item of his toilet. Here, too, téye proceeded to the church of the you are annoyed by the street meracephalous saint, in the cold vaults of chandise of little sluts of thirteen, which they are deposited. To count, who look you audaciously in the face, on a fête day, the arrivals and depar. and try hard to seduce you with viotures, during only a few minutes, from set and rosebud nosegays, and of the Porte St Denys, were as impossi- course generally succeed. ble a task as that imposed on Cinder- Among signs and ensigns on the ella by her ball-going sisters !

houses which surround this ομφαλος γης, Around this spot is generally col- who can fail to be attracted by yonder lected, as now, a large stationary vast portrait of a green Lady, in whose crowd, of what the journalists and arms a winged messenger is depositplay-wrights call canaille, when the ing a young nursling, on whom the law and the soldiery have the upper painter contrives to make her look hand; but when blood and rapine with such affectionate interest, that have secured to this canuille more re- you almost wish you were its papa! spectful consideration, they obtain the But do not suppose the sage femme, endearing name of enfans du peuple. whose tenderness this production unHere you see fellows waiting for a equivocally attests, has it all her own job with gold ear rings and a doubt- way; for opposite, a younger rival, ful physiognomy ; here halts the bas. equally captivating, unbonneted, and ket-burthened countryman to breathe in pink, stands over two eggs, on a under the shadow of the huge archi- richly painted carpet, out of which tecture ; against its walls lounges the eggs two oviparous babes are making dissatisfied labourer, with hands in a their way, at a huge destruction of shell dangerous state of inactivity; here -in the background a languid female, congregate the knights of industry to half hid under the quilt. Between speculate on the probabilities of un- these rival midwives you may read, tried pockets, which they do with an and doubt for a moment if you underinstinct that rarely misleads. Here stand, an intimation that dolls' eyes the shoe black offers an assistance are manufactured within, and that which is rarely declined in a city where children's playthings may be mended clean shoes are " de rigueur," and the on the lowest terms. frequent polish still embellishes the In this quarter, too, you can scarcedeformed or cracked leather of the ly move your own length without superannuated boot, whose wearer, being confronted by a smartly-dressed perhaps, never exhibited a shirt front, man, placed conveniently to intercept but who pays upgrudgingly more, in a the crowd that passes betwixt him and his shop window; he would fain clothe urban station : on wo go, and on we you in equally becoming raiment with go-the street getting shabbier at his own; do but glance towards his every step through the long long faux. window as you pass, and swifter than bourg (all fauxbourgs are long, all spider darts along his line on an im- fauxbourgs are bad, and this the longplicated fly, he is at your side ! - est and the worst), the shop-windows 1. Voyez, Monsieur!Entrez, Mon. exhibit less and less costly merchansieur ?Or, are you hungry and not dize; the plate-glass windows of the naked ? Behold the pastry booth, with smart shawl-shops disappear; the plates of cold Yorkshire pudding, frescoed ceiling and the gilt cornice rancid babas," and gingerbread of the coffee-house are no more. The piqué with almonds, and all that can bon-bons shops, which in Paris more be made of equivocal butter, mildewed than rival the very jewellers in display, flour, and brown sugar. Here, too, have no business here—orange, and are stay and corset-makers, who pique pink, and sapphire-coloured sugar. your curiosity or challenge your ana- plums are for other regions. We betomical knowledge, in the display of hold no longer the pyramid of carataille of the most captivating dimen- mel, the pralined petals of the orange, sions, and indiscreetly show the very the violet, or the rose, the chrysolito public how such things may be brought that melts in your mouth, or the pretiy about by padding, and wadding, and girls who serve you. Sages fommes cushions, and steel springs.

there still are and must be, but not like But enough! The Boulevard St our Boulevard ones; the very signs are Denys, as every one knows, is a com- all in this quarter by inferior artists, pendium of Paris itself, and the St and in place of the chemist's shop Denys coach, by which we mean to with all its glories, dried plants and go, is ready to start, and warns us to tureens full of leeches indicate the mount in a hurry, lest we lose the humbler herboriste, quickly-occupied place to every sub


* Substitit ad Veteres Arcus madidamque Capenam."-JUVENAL

We are at the Barrière, and some got up on short notice (noces et fesday we will stop for five minutes to tins). Here a swan with a cross be. look at the proceedings of the officers tween his neck and foot is at once the of the Octroi, whose business it is, in signe and cygne de la cruit, and hy the behalf of the good Ville de Paris, to singularity of the device arrests the exact the municipal tax, so named, on customer. There the "three barbels," all alimentary substances; and who true to their ensign, exhibit the dish accordingly run their long steel spits of ready-fried tlounder or gudgeon. through unknown packages, and an- Further on, the over-tempted Saint, nounced as dry goods—a skin of wine amidst naked syrens and ruby wineor spirits would stand a bad chance cups, seems by his gesture not so with this practical commentary on the much intended to indicate the necesImpulerat ferro Argolicas fedare late- sity of self-control, as the pleasure of brus. The buzzing hornets of this yielding to the temptation of the Burtroublesome excise left to their occu- gundy, &c., within-Burgundy beyond patious, we find before us a long am- the barrier and the Octroi Peep phibious kind of street, of which through those dirty panes and you every second house is destined for shall see a voiturier's larder,--sheeps' cheap repast and economical wine- trotters, crapaudine pigeons, stale bibbing, where countless sign-boards cold meat, faded sallad, basins filled attest how surely the ruling inclina- with stewed pears and plums, or the tion of the many is to reconcile gas- rolled cylinder of raw beef waiting tronomy with the frugal administra- orders, or the half of a yellow goose, tion of finance; one tells us of its hun- such as one hopes Cyrus did not dred couverts, and its weekly balls; send bis hungry friends; in short, another is prepared for marriage hundreds of places are here where feasts, or any other rejoicings to be nature may be satisfied for a few sous, and where hungry carters (who yond all, behold that seemingly inare xapropos avõges of course) assem. terminable avenue which is to end ble to toast sausages on their forks, with our short journey, and place us and swill unoctroyed but sour wine before the Abbey Church of St Denys. with abounding approbation ;-be


There's a bit of true French road. of which depends on the separate and making for you! Straight and flat as sometimes opposite wills of wheel, need be, and with nothing to draw off driver, passenger, and team, and many your attention from the chaussée itself. others with or without distinctive A double row of young trees on names. Curious it is to see those gaunt, either side, make iwo geometrical Holbein-looking horses, scampering boundaries, which the eye may follow away under the thundering blows of for miles, with practical illustration of the gnarled whip-handle, or suddenly the axiom that two parallel straight halting, or rolling groggily to one lines never can become one. The side, or shuffling knee deep, in dust long line of lamps hung in the mid of their own raising, dragging their road; the clean-cut formal parallelo little friend, the associated donkey, grams by the way-side (for what use through it,-such as these, and many intended we could never guess) now others, meet or pass you in long half filled with water; the rectangular succession, two, three, four, at a time, off-walks into the fields; the flat un. with right jovial crews inside, who hedged country, where the frequent sing, smoke, and make the most of poplar needs no training, and towers their short drive ; while, at the disbigh above the apparently naked soil; tance of several miles off, o'ercanothe miserable wickets of the few cot- pied, or emerging each from its cloud, tages by the road-side, covered with the towering roof, the herculean build, rags drying in the sun and dust, are and the approaching thunder of rival all un-English; while the utter absence diligences freighted from England and of all vegetable barriers, the land's best Boulogne, approach, arrive, and pass covering, explain the striking absence with all the honours, privileges, and of birds, which elsewhere adorn the concessions of the road, leaving the sorriest rural scenery ;-in short, you cloud of dust which has dredged us are soon tired of the whole thing, and like millers to be slowly dissipated. look forward to the objects that are Again we are able to look about us, approaching or passing you, the sub- and find we are at the bridge of the urban carriages, which rejoice in the Canal de l'Ourq; the Rubicon is passname of coucou (a nest of strange ed, and we descend with both noise birds may usually be found there in and speed into the very centre of St incubation); the à volontés, the going Denys!


And here we are at the door of our prepared and had there duly imfriend the Abbé *: an excellent pressed upon his own mind the importman he was, and this we said even ance of discretion and self-command. before the excellent dinner he gave Old enough to insure respect, he was us. His age might have been seventy; sufficiently urbane to dispel reserve; he had seen much of the world, with his good temper won an easy confiout having become on that account dence, and his unaffected humanity less benevolent or less indulgent to its was such as to lead him to sympathize frailties--all this you saw, or might with all human suffering. He was see in his face—all this you heard, or dressed in full canonicals, the blackmight hear in his every remark, and ribbed cap fitting closely to bis skull, all this you learned in his eventful hisa the black bands with the narrow white tory. He had been a chaplain in the edge perfectly adjusted, and not one army in early life-an oflicial, for button of that long front row of a whose existence in the French armies priest's walking attire, out of its butwe suppose the English reader is un. ton-hole. While he went to give orders for dinner, I had time to glance and there was just enough of carpet in at his little library, and discerned, the middle of the room (more Gallico) amidst lives of saints, Catholic mis- to keep our friend's feet and those of sals, and les Nuits de Young, a sprink- his large oak table from taking cold; ling of uncanonical romance, and an add a few chairs, an armoire, a amateur treatise or two on cookery warm cushion, which also did duty for and medicine. A print of Fenelon's a footstool, a comfortable stove, whefine head was on the wall, and a Mater ther for standing at, or for sitting to Dolorosa from Sasso-Ferrata ; a bad read at by candle-light. All this had engraving of the Crucifixion in a black been glanced at, and the small amount frame, was evidently not hung up as a of what is essentially necessary to work of art, and two or three holy human comfort reflected on, when the subjects in oils, with a few landscapes, agreeable owner returned to accomcompleted the decoration. By the pany me to the cathedral; so, after modest, but not uncomfortable bed, taking a glass of wine and some of the hung a small carved ivory crucifix, talmouse, which is the staple commowith a little vessel for holy water; a dity of St Denys, we proceeded thither broad-brimmed hat hung on its peg, together.


The Abbey St Denys is, for an procured ; for happening to point to edifice, as sacrosanct as any in Chris- that part of the wall which the divine tendom. Ever since the decapitated hand had touched, his immediate cure saint who originally imposed its name, was effected. Since this period the took that celebrated walk, “ of which reputation of the abbey has been supthe first step alone was difficult”- ported chiefly on the voluntary contri. (the promenade took place towards butions of miracles, in which the atthe end of the third century)-ever testing parties have been generally since he appeared to a saintly lady, eye-witnesses of that for the accuracy by name Catulla, for the purpose of of which they vouch; nay, the very suggesting the necessity of a shrine road along which we have just been for himself and two other saints, his travelling to get here, may well have fellow martyrs, has this same abbey its interest to the faithful, though I been the scene and site of many a could not stop the reader in the dust, pious fraud. Its whole history comes as we came over it, to tell him of the of miracle,—the shrine, which long very singular event which occurred preceded the cathedral, was itself, we before it was paved (some 800 years see, intimated from above, and miracle ago), a mile on this side the Barrière : on miracle marked the whole period a rogue, it seems, had stolen “ La occupied in the erection of the sacred Hostie' from one of the Paris edifice. The very workmen were sup- churches, St Genevieve, I believe, and ported on miraculous supplies, and a was making the best of his way out of single inexhaustible cask of wine, of town with his prize. Having cleared undeniable quality, gave them spirits the gates, his curiosity was natural for the task and strength for the toil; enough to open the sacred patina, nay, on the very evening of the day when lo! the contained host es

escaped, preceding that when the bishop was and flew up to heaven like an unto perform the ceremony of consecra. caged bird, not, however, to remain tion on the finished building, a certain there, since, according to the Chronicle, leper, fearing lest, by reason of his “après plusieurs hymnes et louanges infirmities, he should be prevented chantées à l'honneur du St Sacrement, from getting in with the crowd, stole la dite Hostie, suspendue en l'air, vint thither, it seems, over night, and, à descendre miraculeusement entre les standing between two columns (which mains du Curé de St Gervais, non sans of course are known), beheld the per grande etonnement d'une multitude inson of our Saviour, who, having finie de personnes qui estoient presents.” touched the wall with his hand, forth- Of a hundred persons entering this with vanished! Relating what he had edifice for the first time, the probability seen to the people and the priests, who were, that ninety-nine would utter an naturally required proof, this was soon exclamation indicative both of pleasure and surprise ; so imposing is it in into other passages, leading to little low. height of roof and length of nave, roofed crypts or chapels, where, placed 80 graceful the graduated elevation upon many astone soros, lie quilted of its fine sanctuary and quire, so warrior and brocaded dame. Of course, pleasing the effect of those cataracts you ask for Clovis, the first Christian of coloured light that pour in on all king who ever imposed conditions on sides from a thousand windows ! The Providence, who, fighting against monuments are few, but on a grand the Germanz in 455, and being hard scale, and placed with effect where pressed, “ fit un veu à Dieu, que they stand, especially that to the me- s'il lui donnait la victoire sans autre mory of Francis the First, the base of delay, il se rangerait à l'eglise Chréwhich is occupied by a magnificent tienne, et se ferait baptiser. _“ Prince bas-relief. The new organ, which très illustre,” adds his historian, si is to be without rival in France, was, sa grande cupidité de regner seul, ne at our visit, not as yet installed, lui eut fait oublier et l'equité et l'hubut active preparations were making manité, envers ses parens et ses sujets for its inauguration, and it may be, les plus fidèles !Childebert is an. and probably is, already pealin, along other name you are sure to recollect'; the aisles. My friend the Abbé first he came into being about sixty years conducted me to a door on one side of afterwards. He it was who built the quire ; a secret spring obeys his that church in front of the Louvre, touch, and we pass onward through a which no Protestant forgets, “ St cold cheerless Sacristy, the only furni- Germain l'Auxerrois.” Here he sleeps ture of which was an ample store of in his stone trough, with his wife Ultrohuge fluted candles, and a bigh-mount- goth beside him. It is she whom Sued extinguisher standing in one cor- rius calls, “ Nutrix orphanorum, conner. But here we stay not-a narrow solatrix pupillorum, sustentatrix paudoor opposite to that by which we enter, perum et Dei servorum, atque adjutrix lets us into a well-boarded, well-warm- fidelium monachorum." In the eighth ed, well-proportioned room, where a year of the reign of Childebert, a handsome stove, some easy chairs, and great inundation of the Seine and the several good modern paintings, put Marne happened, and boats suffered your mind at rest on the subject of mo. shipwreck between St Denys and Paris. nastic austerity as comprehended at St “ Sequana Matronaque tantam inundaDenys. A room was this where ladies tionem circa Parisios intulerunt, ut might have sat over their work-boxes, inter civitatem et basilicam St Lauor a gay evening party have assembled, rentii, naufragia sæpe contingerent." quoad light, heat, and cheerfulness, Chilperic comes next in order : he was without any mistake: but we must by no means a deserving person, and not tarry in it, for we have the vaults his wife Fredigonda, who lies“ to visit, to do which we retrace our marquetterieat his feet, was a very steps into the body of the church, Clytemnestra in her life. He is reprelooking up, as we are instructed, at sented here with his hand to his chin, the glass effigies of the French kings not, says Gregory of Tours (who is on the painted windows ; we cross the by no means flattering in his account high altar over the tombs of some of of him), to signify how he died (his the later Louises, and descend by a throat was cut), but merely because he dozen steps, through an iron grating, had a habit of stroking his beard. into the cold atmosphere of the royal Gerard gives you all that need be said vaults beneath. Directly at the end of or sung of either consort in three a long arched corridor, and illumi- linesnated by a window which lets in a “ Campanos vastavit agros, crudelis et scanty light from above, you soon discern, on a high pedestal, the statue of Uxorem primam jugulat; Fredigonda se. Charlemagne. Here and there, on either hand, early sovereigns of France Quem jugulat; mors hæc crudeli digna and their royal consorts, stone crowns

marito.' on their heads and stone sceptres in Exemple memorable," adds the Chro. their hands, lie extended in grim re- nicler, “pour les roys, ne ex pellice pose. The corridor, which appeared conjugem faciant"-as if that remark to terminate at Charlemagne's statue, is were alone applicable to kings! Pepin found, on approaching it, to divaricate le Bref lies on his belly-pronus et non




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