"Lyons, Oct. 25. N. 8. 1739. In my last I gave you the particulars of out little journey to Geneva: I have only to add, that we stayed about a week, in order to see Mr. Conway settled there: I do not wonder so many English choose it for their residence; the city is very small, neat, prettily built, and extremely populous; the Rhône runs through the middle of it, and it is surrounded with new fortifications, that give it a military compact air; which joined to the happy lively countenances of the inhabitants, and an exact dicipline, always as strictly observed as in time of war, makes the little republic appear a match for a much greater power; though perhaps Geneva, and all that belongs to it, are not of equal extent with Windsor and its two parks. To one that has passed through Savoy, as we did, nothing can be more striking than the contrast, as soon as he approaches the town. Near the gates of Geneva runs the torrent Arve, which separates it from the king of Sardinia's dominjons; on the other side of it lies a country naturally, indeed, fine and fertile; but you meet with nothing in it but meagre, ragged bare-footed peasants, with their children, in extreme misery and nastiness; and even of those no great numbers: you no sooner have crossed the stream I have mentioned, but poverty is no more; not a beggar, hardly a discontented face, to be seen; numerous, and well-dressed people swarming on the ramparts; drums beating, soldiers, well cloathed and armed, exercising; and folks, with business in their looks, hurrying to and fro; all contribute to make any person, who is not blind, sensible what a difference there is between the two governments, that are the causes of one view and the other. The beautiful lake, at one end of which the town is situated; its extent; the several states that border upon it; and all its pleasures; are too well known for me to mention them. We sailed upon it as far as the dominions of Geneva extend, that is, about two leagues and a half on each side, and landed at ṣeveral of the little houses of pleasure, that the inhabitants have built all about it, who received us with much politeness. The same night we ate a part of a trout, taken in the lake, that weighed thirty-seven pounds; as great a monster as it appeared to us, it was esteemed there nothing extraordinary, and they assured us 7 it was not uncommon to catch them of fifty pounds; they are dressed here, and sent post to Paris upon some great occasions; nay, even to Madrid, as we were told. The road we returned through, was not the same we came by, we crossed the Rhone at Seyssel, and passed for three days among the mountains of Bugue, without meeting with any thing new: at last we came out into the plains of La Bresse, and so to Lyons again. Sir Robert has written to Mr. Walpole, to desire he would go to Italy; which he has resolved to do; so that all the scheme of spending the winter in the south of France is laid aside, and we are to pass it in a much finer country. You may imagine I am not sorry to have this opportunity of seeing the place in the world that best deserves it besides, as the Pope (who is eighty-eight, and has been lately at the point of death) cannot probably last a great while, perhaps we may have the fortune to be present at the election of a new one, when Rome will be in all its glory. Friday next we certainly begin our journey; in two days we shall come to the foot of the Alps, and six more we shall be in passing them. Even here the winter is begun; what then must it be among those vast snowy mountains where it is hardly ever summer! We are, however, as well armed as possible against the cold, with muffs, hoods and masks of beaver, fur-boots, and bear skins. When we arrive at Turin, we shall rest after the fatigues of the journey." Mr. Gray's letters contain a very pleasing account of many parts of their journey; but unfortunately, at Florence, Mr. Horace Walpole and he quarrelled and parted. Mr. Mason, to whom we are chiefly indebted for the materials of our author's life, observes, that he was enjoined by Mr. Walpole to charge himself with the chief blame in their quarrel; candidly confessing, that · more attention and complaisance, more deference to a warm friendship, to superior judgment and prudence, might have prevented a rupture that gave much uneasiness to them both, and a lasting concern to the survivor; though in the year 1744, a reconciliation was effected between them, by a lady who wished well to both parties. After their separation, Mr. Gray continued his journey, in a manner suitable to his own limited circumstances, with only an oc VOL. IV. casional servant. He returned to England in September, 1741, and in about two months after buried his father; who had, by an injudicious waste of money upon a new house, so much lessened his fortune, that Gray thought his circumstances too narrow to enable him in a proper manner to prosecute the study of the law. He therefore retired to Cambridge, where he soon after became bachelor of civil law; and where, as Dr. Johnson expresses it, "without liking the place, or its inhabitants, or pretending to like them, he passed, except a short residence at London, the rest of his life.” . In 1742, Gray wrote his "Ode to Spring," his " Prospect of Eton College," and his "Ode to Adversity." He began likewise a Latin poem, "De Principiis Cogitandi." He wrote,/ however, very little, though he applied himself very closely to his studies; but in 1750, he published his celebrated, "Elegy; written in a Country Church Yard;" which first made him known to the public. An invitation which he received soon after from lady Cobham, gave rise to the following singular composition, to which he gave the title of A LONG STORY. IN Britain's isle, no matter where, To raise the cieling's fretted heighth, Full oft within the spacious walls, When he had fifty winters o'er him, kas vidus”. The seal and maees danced before him His bushy beard, and shoe-strings green, What in the very first beginning! Shame of the versifying tribe! A house there is (and that's enough), The first came cap-a-pee from France, The other Amazon kind heaven Alas! who would not wish to please her! Fame, in the shape of Mr. P-t, Who prowl'd the country far and near, My Lady heard their joint petition, Swore by her coronet and ermine, To rid the manor of such vermin. The Heroines undertook the task, Thro' lanes unknown, o'er stiles they ventur'd; They flirt, they sing, they laugh, they tattle, And up stairs in a whirlwind rattle. Each hole and cupboard they explore, Each creek and cranny of his chamber, Run hurry skurry round the floor, Or creas'd, like dogs-ears, in a folio. So Rumour says: (who will, believe,) Short was his joy. He little knew The words too eager to unriddle, So cunning was the Apparatus, Yet on his way (no sign of grace, And begg'd his aid that dreadful day. The Godhead would have back'd his quarrel; But with a blush, on recollection, Own'd, that his quiver and his laurel, "Gainst four such eyes were no protection. The court was sat, the culprit there, Forth from their gloomy mansions creeping, The Lady Janes and Joans repair, And from the gallery stand peeping: Such as in silence of the night (Styack has often seen the sight) Or at the chapel door stand centry, In peaked hoods and mantles tarnished, Sour visages, enough to scare ye, |