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We must now proceed to consider the best position for the exit.

I think a little consideration will show us that the heated chimney affords the best possible means under the circumstances. By causing the foul air to escape into the chimney we increase the ventilating power

FIG. 2.-ELEVATION.-A is the grating.

Floor Line

very considerably. We have no longer to deal with the small difference before mentioned, but may calculate upon the whole height of the chimney, above the opening, through which the foul air enters it, and have the difference between this column of air highly heated as it is, and that of

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another of the density of the outer air, as the force at our disposal.

Care must be exercised in the choice of a valve to close this opening against down draft. The best which has come under my notice is formed of a series of leaves or flaps of mica enclosed in a metal case. The flaps are very light, and, being hung from the top, are absolutely secure against return currents. The front may be made as ornamental as can be desired.

The heated and spent air from the gas light should be conveyed away immediately when possible.

The ornamental flower which is commonly placed in the centre of the room may be pierced through. The opening thus formed being boxed in between the joists with thin sheet metal connected with a tube for conveying the waste gases into the chimney or outer air.

The register of the fire grate will form a regulator, by closing or opening which the draft through the escape valve may be increased or diminished.

Exercise of proper skill and judgment in

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FIG. 3.-PLAN AT LEVEL OF THE OPENINGS.

B B-Air tubes to Fire.

C C-Fresh air inlets.

the form and placing of the inlets, and in the construction of the exit, will insure comfortable ventilation in rooms built with no special provision for it.

The tube which supplies the fire should have a valve to close it, so that when necessary the whole pumping power of the fire may be applied to sucking in fresh air through the room.

I will now refer to the last source of contamination mentioned above, viz., foul drains and water-closets.

Any unpleasantness from the former will commonly arise from faulty design, or malconstruction. A drain is ill designed which passes under any portion of the house, unlesss no other way is possible. Also where no provision is made for ventilating, and where it is not of ample size.

A drain unevenly laid, built of inferior materials badly jointed, or not properly connected with the main sewer, is badly constructed.

Of course, in use, a drain may become stopped by accident or design; this is another matter; all works are liable to acci

dents, but a mishap of this nature will soon show itself by the bursting or overflow of the drain.

The remedies for bad smells from drains are, 1st, the proper laying of the drain. It should be formed of socketed pipes, in no case less than 4 in. diameter, 6 in. will often be better, or even 9 in. pipes for large houses. Sufficient fall should be given, not less, if possible, than 3 in. in 10 ft. The pipes should be laid in good concrete, and jointed with Portland cement. 2d. The drain must be trapped. The common siphon trap is the best form for general use, and I believe a single trap is preferable to double, for with two traps, when the water has passed the first it compresses the foul air, which escapes through the upper one into the house. 3d. All injurious escape may be prevented by ventilating the drain. A pipe should be connected with the siphon, on the summit of the bend between the water which closes the trap and the leg of the siphon which joins the drain. This pipe Dr. Carpenter says should be of nearly the same bore as the siphon, and should be carried up out

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