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THE CHINESE QUARTER OF THE OFFAT FAIR AT NIINI NOVGOROD

THE

RUSSIAN SHORES OF THE BLACK SEA

IN THE AUTUMN OF 1852

WITH A

VOYAGE DOWN THE VOLGA, AND A TOUR THROUGH

THE COUNTRY OF THE DON COSSACKS

BY

LAURENCE OLIPHANT

AUTHOR OF "A JOURNEY TO NEPAUL"

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS

EDINBURGH AND LONDON

MDCCCLIII

303. 2. 166.

PRINTED BY WILLIAM BLACK WOOD AND SONS, EDINBURGH.

PREFACE.

Ir may seem singular that there is no country in Europe about which so little has been written, and about which, consequently, so little is known, as that vast empire of Russia, which absorbs in itself half the Continent, and which, from its extent and position, would seem to demand a principal share of the attention of those nations whose destinies it may one day control; and yet it is not very difficult to account for this, when the great difficulty of obtaining authentic information is considered.

The system of Government renders it impossible that any light should be thrown upon the present condition of the Empire from internal sources, while few strangers are tempted to extend their travels beyond St Petersburg or Moscow. It is not an inviting country to the dilettante tourist, for the accommodation is execrable-the means of locomotion barbarous-the obstacles thrown in the way by government annoying-and the results, with

PREFACE.

report to fine arts, literature, and social life, comNor does portonly unworthy of his attention.

F 19 prewen thous charms for the more enterprising free her which a new and unexplored country offers. Planers, then, the Benty information which the jorden beady possess has been of such a nature pawn indifference towards acquiring more, ok but felt it necessary to offer some apoFolding this volume, had not the events

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ok agitated Europe for the last six months 2004 m. ku ruppose that an excuse is no longer rooded for giving some account of those more Tomote provinces of the Empire of the Autocrat though which my travels led me. Upon my aval at St Petersburg, circumstances induced me to change the plans I had originally entertained of visiting the rivers which run into the White Sea, for the purpose of salmon-fishing, and I have found no reason to regret the alteration in my route, since it furnished me with objects of interest of a more useful and solid description.

At a time when the power of Russia seems about to be tested, and its vast resources called into requisition, the shores of the Volga are invested with an increased importance, for Russian Tartary is the granary of the Empire. If the Imperial forces are again to be matched with the armies of the West,

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