south of the town.

"With ships the sea was sprinkled far and nigh

Like stars in heaven, and joyously it show'd;
Some lying fast at anchor in the road;
Some veering up and down, one knew not why.”

It is said to have been founded | known sonnet; at any rate, the opening lines perfectly in 1244. It consists of a curious little hamlet, of describe the prospect: small houses, each with its garden attached, collected together in the most confused manner imaginable. The houses are occupied by decayed inhabitants of Sandwich, who have each, besides the house, a small annuity. Over every door is painted the name of the occupant, with the addition of the word 'brother' or 'sister,' as the case may be. In the midst of the little hamlet is a small chapel of very pretty design, and very early date-it being of the early English period, with lancet windows. In the chapel are some interesting monuments. Divine service is only performed in it about once a month. The visitor to Sandwich should stroll out as far as St. Bartholomew's, which is really a nice, retired, comfortable-looking little colony.

The Gatehouses, of which we have spoken, and of which we give engravings, require just a word of notice. The Bridge Gate (Cut, No. 1,) is a rude structure, partly wood and partly stone, of comparatively recent construction; but it is a picturesque object as you approach the town, and with the swing-bridge (which is made to open for the passage of vessels) is always noticed and remembered by the visitor. The Fisher Gate, (Cut, No. 2,) or, as it is more commonly called by the natives, Key Gate, from standing at the end of Key Street, is one of the old Gatehouses: it is built of stone, and is a substantial pile. It stands opposite what used to be the ferry, and gives a curious idea of the state of the town when this was one of the principal entrances to it, and the narrow street to which it leads was a main thoroughfare. They must have had carts at Sandwich then, if they used carts, not unlike those strange ones still employed in Yarmouth.

THE DOWNS: GOODWIN SANDS.

The Downs are a roadstead, some eight miles long,
and five or six broad, lying right in the highway of
British commerce. They are formed by the Goodwin
Sands, between which and the Kentish coast they lie.
The coast serves to shelter them on the west and
north-west; while, from north-east to south-east, the
Goodwin Sands form a natural breakwater; and thus
is formed a tolerably secure haven, and safe anchorage,
in all ordinary weathers. Four or five hundred vessels
may often be seen riding here. The area of the Downs
is about 7,000 acres. The Goodwin Sands are about
ten miles long, of very irregular form, and varying
considerably in width; in some parts being four miles
across, in others, not more than one. Their distance
from the shore varies from three to seven miles. There
is a tradition that they are the remains of an island,
called Lomea, which belonged to Goodwin, Earl of
Kent, and was destroyed by the sea in 1097. Scientific
writers have generally discredited this tradition, but
Mr. Lyell seems disposed to attach some value to it.
He
says, "That they are a remnant of land, and not
a mere accumulation of sea-sand,' as Rennell ima-
gined, may be presumed from the fact that, when the
erection of a lighthouse on this shoal was in contem-
plation by the Trinity Board in the year 1817, it was
found, by borings, that the bank consisted of fifteen
feet of sand, resting on blue clay. An obscure tra-
dition has come down to us, that the estates of Earl
Goodwin, the father of Harold, who died in the year
1053, were situated here; and some have conjectured
that they were overwhelmed by the flood mentioned
in the Saxon Chronicle, sub anno 1099. The last
remains of an island, consisting, like Sheppey, of clay,
may perhaps have been carried away about that time."

Not even the dulness of Sandwich can equal that of
the low tract of land we are to pass over between it
and Deal. There are two roads: ours, of course, is
that nighest the sea. But the passenger would do well-Principles of Geology,' 7th ed., p. 300.
to leave the road, and proceed as quickly as may be
to the sea-side. Till we get close to the shore, nothing
can surpass the dreariness, especially seaward, where
a long range of low, bare sand hillocks rise just high
enough to shut out the view of the sea. A dismaller
walk, in proportion to its length, a pedestrian would
not wish for on a wet day. By way of cheering him,
perhaps he may notice a monument, that stands by one
of the foot-paths, in the shape of a grave-stone, with
an inscription recording the murder of some luckless
wight on this spot. But if the sand-hills be passed
or ascended, there breaks upon the eye a prospect that
cannot fail to stir the heart. Directly before us, and
on either hand, stretch the famous Downs, crowded,
perhaps, with hundreds of ships of every size and
country, riding securely at anchor, or floating along
with full-spread sails. Wordsworth, it may be, had
these Downs in his memory when he wrote his well-

While the Goodwin Sands are of such value, as forming the Downs, they are themselves extremely dangerous, "from the great extent of shoal water they present, and from the indraught upon them by currents across them." So dangerous are they, that in a westerly gale, captains are afraid to run to the shelter of the Downs: to use the words of an old seaman, Captain Richardson, who "for thirty-four years had been continually going up and down [the channel]," when examined before the Commissioners on Harbours of Refuge, "nine people out of ten become nervous when they get into that part of the world: they have such a dread of the Goodwin Sands." In former times there was an opinion prevalent that the Sands possessed some strange "ingurgitating" quality, so that a vessel which unfortunately struck upon them must necessarily be lost,-swallowed up, without chance of rescue. It is almost needless to say that the Sands

66

have no such quality, but are precisely like the sand | clear to admit of doubt as to its having taken place. along the neighbouring shore. As they are partly The discovery was made by Capt. Bullock in 1840, uncovered every tide, it naturally came to be consi- who surveyed the Brake with such care, as to leave no dered, whether some method could not be devised to doubt of the accuracy of his statement. It was thought, render them less dangerous to navigation. Many plans however, that there might be some incorrectness in the have been suggested; the most ingenious, perhaps, engraving of the chart of Græme Spence, who made being that of Captain Vetch, who proposed to form, the survey in 1795; Capt. Washington therefore reby means he has stated in his memoir on the subject, examined the Brake, with a view to remove any what he calls "a spinal embankment" of iron along uncertainty as to its having shifted. In his Report to the ridge of the sand, which should serve as an axis of the Commissioners he says, "For this purpose, I obaccumulation," it being constructed so as to receive the tained from Capt. Beaufort, hydrographer to the sand when thrown up by the action of the sea on either Admiralty, the original drawing of the survey of the side. The crest of the Sands would thus, he thought, Downs by Græme Spence in 1795, and that of Mr. be, in time, raised "above the high-water mark, so as Thomas, R.N., in 1832; and on these original docuto render them at all times visible, and to stop the ments, and on their own points, I laid down the indraughts and currents across them." There would angles that we observed in April, 1844, all of which be, he thought, the further advantages that "the con- prove, as I had fully anticipated, that Capt. Bullock's version of the Goodwin Sands into a permanently dry recent chart of this sand is perfectly correct as to its bank, would much improve the shelterage of the Great position; that the Brake Sand has gradually moved Downs, at all times of the tide, from north-east to bodily to the westward, the four fathoms edge having, south-east; while, if the Goodwin Sands became an in 1832, moved about 500 yards, and in 1844 as much island, it would always present a safe lee-side, where as 100 yards more, making a total move of 600 yards vessels in distress might find a shelter." The advan- in the space of fifty years; perhaps, considering its tages are obvious, and the plan appears feasible; but position, one of the most remarkable changes of a body there is no likelihood of its being carried into execu- of sand on record." Capt. Washington states, howtion. The probabilities of success are so doubtful, ever, that "in spite of these changes, he sees no reason and the difficulties and costliness of the work would why the Brake should not be fixed by a skilful engineer be so great, as to overbalance any reasons that may be in its present position; and thus converted from an urged in its favour. evil into a benefit." It is worthy of notice that, with all this change of position, the Brake does not appear to have materially altered in shape. The result of its shifting has been to increase the width of the Gull Stream, as the passage between it and the Goodwin Sands is named, by above a third of a mile; and by the increase of width, its safety is, of course, increased also. The Goodwin Sands also appear to have moved, though in a far less degree than the Brake.

Besides the Goodwin Sands, there is another large sand-bank, which lies between their northern extremity and the shore. This bank, which is called the Brakes, is about five miles in length, with a depth upon it, at low water, of from three to twelve feet. Between this bank and the shore is an anchorage of about 1,000 acres area, called the Small Downs, which is sheltered by the Brake in the same way as the Great Downs are by the Goodwin Sands. The Small Downs" are the general anchorage of the smaller class of merchant vessel having occasion to bring up in the Downs, thus leaving the Great Downs more clear for ships of larger draught of water." (Commissioners' Report.)

It has been recommended to convert these Small Downs into a Harbour of Refuge, and a plan was prepared by Sir John Rennie for doing so, by means of "a solid work along the spine of the Brake, to be brought up two feet above the high-water mark." The cost of this was estimated at above three millions and a quarter. Capt. Vetch also drew up a proposal for effecting a like end at a less cost, by means similar to those he proposed for converting the Goodwin into a dry bank. But in addition to other obvious objections, a careful survey of the Brake has suggested a most extraordinary one, namely, that the Brake a body of above five miles in length- is itself in motion; that it has, in fact, moved bodily towards the shore, about 600 yards in forty-five years! The announcement of so remarkable a change of position, and one of which there had been no suspicion, naturally excited some scepticism; but the evidence appears too

SANDOWN CASTLE.

We have now to consider another object of inquiry that suggests itself in connection with the southeastern coast. The question of the defence of this

coast is one, as we have seen, that from the earliest time has engaged the attention of the Government of this country. We are now by a fortress erected just three hundred years ago, when circumstances led the monarch to believe that a descent upon the coast was not unlikely to be made. This, therefore, seems a fitting place to glance at a subject that, after the interest it has so recently excited, it is neither desirable nor possible we should pass without notice. Into the disputed points it is not our business to enter. With regard to them we shall content ourselves with remarking that there are two arguments which have been put forward of late with some complacency that are evidently of little value, and that we must be permitted to pass unregarded in any future observations we may make on the subject. The first is, that coast defences are unnecessary, because nations are growing too wise

or are coming to have too clear a conception of their own interests, to render war a probable contingency. But the whole course of history, and the current of events, alike show that it is altogether beyond the power of any government or people, however peacefully inclined, to prevent war. And the declarations that may be made of the peaceful intentions of a nation will only be implicitly relied on by statesmen when nations generally shall have attained a far higher stage of "progress" than has yet been reached by any. Nor does the other argument—that to make defensive preparations in time of peace, is the way to provoke hostilities, or at least to create such mutual distrust and ill-feeling as may eventually lead to them-seem of much more value. It has however the recommendation of novelty: since heretofore men who have been most famous for political wisdom have ever urged, without opposition, that it is in peace a country should strengthen itself against warlike attack: it would almost seem as plausible to argue against the use of bolts and bars, the danger of their provoking to burglary: it does not seem to be the duty or the policy of a government to wait supinely the coming of danger, but to forecast the probability, and provide against it. The provision against a danger when it is close at hand is always made at a disadvantage and at a wasteful expense. That the coast is exposed to greater risk of a sudden descent, since the introduction of steam into the war-service of nations, has, in a great measure, overcome the opposition of winds and tides, there can be little doubt; nor much more, that a hostile power would avail itself of the opportunity it affords, if the chances of success were sufficiently promising. It has been said, and no doubt with entire truth, that Englishmen would rise as with one soul to repel an attempt to subject the country to insult or invasion. But it is not therefore the less certain, that a provident government will see that firmness and sustenance should be given to that spirit by the preparation of the means necessary for its support and success.

As it seems to us, the real questions as regards the coast are- -Whether it is of such a character as to afford facilities for the landing of an enemy, or to require defensive works? and if so, whether those at present existing are insufficient, or in an inefficient condition? Of course there then comes the very important financial question Whether the danger is so great or imminent, as to justify a government in the expenditure of the whatever it may be, necessary for the construction of efficient defences?

sum,

are

string of fortresses along that part of the coast we are
to pass over, and of these, as we proceed, we shall just
so far speak, as, without running into details, may
serve to indicate their number and connection.
Between Sandwich and Sandown Castle there are two
weak-looking brick batteries which were erected at the
commencement of the present century. They have
been strangely neglected for many years past, and are
in a very dilapidated state. They are now, as
most of the batteries along this coast, employed as
stations for the coast-guard; but if batteries are needed
here, and it was intended that these should be employed
if required, it must have been very bad economy to
suffer them to fall into their present half-ruinous con-
dition. They are so placed as with the guns of
Sandown and Deal Castles entirely to cover the inter-
mediate coast line, and also the Downs. But it
became evident, from the experience of the last war,
that land batteries alone are of little service for the
protection of the merchantmen lying in the Downs,
or the bays, from privateers; and there would, no
doubt, should another war unfortunately happen, be
steamers stationed in the Downs, which would effect-
ually guard vessels there, and, with the batteries and
castles, form a sufficient protection against any sudden
descent on the coast between Sandwich and Walmer.

Sandown Castle was one of several fortresses erected along the coast about 1539, by Henry VIII., when he believed it to be the intention of "divers great princes and potentates of Christendom to invade the realm of England, and utterly to destroy the whole nation of the same." "Wherefore" says old Hall, "his majesty, in his own person, without any delay, took very laborious and painful journeys towards the sea coasts. Also he sent divers of his nobles and counsellors to view and search all the ports and dangers on the coasts, where any meet or convenient landingplace might be supposed. And in all such doubtful places his highness caused divers and many bulwarks and fortifications to be made. . . . The same time the king caused all the havens to be fortified, and rode to Dover, and caused bulwarks to be made on the seacoasts, and sent commissions throughout all the realm, to have his people muster: and at the same season, on Easter day, was there three-score unknown ships lying in the Downs; wherefore all Kent arose, and mustered in harness the same day."

The form of the Castle will be understood from the engraving (No. 3). It consists of a large central round tower, and four round bastions with port-holes; and on the sea side it is strengthened with an additional battery. Originally it was surrounded by a moat, but the sea now washes one side of it. The entrance is by a drawbridge. It is a stone building, and the walls are from 11 feet to 20 feet thick. It is a grim-looking pile, and would, no doubt, be still formidable, though of course not a kind of building that military engineers would be likely now to erect. The guns cover a wide range, crossing those of Deal Castle on the one hand, and Speaking generally, there is a tolerably continuous No. 2 battery on the other. It still mounts some

This, of course, lies not within our province to discuss. What we have to do appears to be simply, in looking along the south-eastern coast, to show what is the nature of the coast, and to state generally what are the existing defences, and their condition; and perhaps it will then be unnecessary for us to draw any inference. Upon the need for a larger military force, or the formation of a militia, we shall not in any way touch.