482. EXCELLENT SAUSAGE CAKES.-Chop some lean pork very fine, having previously detached all the skin and bone, and to every pound of meat add three quarters of a pound of fat bacon, half an ounce of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, the quarter of a nutmeg grated, six young green chopped onions, and a little chopped parsley; when the whole is well chopped, put into a mortar and pound well, finishing with three eggs; then have ready a pig's caul, which cut into pieces large enough to fold a piece of the above preparation the size of an egg, which wrap up, keeping the shape of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil very gently over a moderate fire.

483. PIGS' FEET.-Procure six pigs' feet nicely salted, which boil in water, to which you have added a few vegetables, until well done, cut each one in halves, take out the long bone, have some sausage-meat as in the last, and a pig's caul, which cut into pieces each large enough to fold half a foot, well surrounded with sausage-meat; when well wrapped up broil slowly half an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. Or, when the pigs' feet are well broiled, egg over, and throw them into some grated crust of bread, with which you have mixed a little parsley, broil a nice colour, and serve with a little plain gravy. called à la Ste. Menehould.

This is

484. PIGS' KIDNEYS.-Cut them open lengthwise, season well with pepper and salt, egg over with a paste brush, dip into bread crumbs, with which you have mixed some chopped parsley and eschalot, run a skewer through to keep them open, and broil for about a quarter of an hour over a good fire; when done, place them upon a dish, have ready an ounce of butter, with which you have mixed the juice of a lemon, a little pepper and salt, and a teaspoonful of French or common mustard; place a piece upon each of the kidneys, place in the oven for one minute, and serve. Pigs' kidneys may also be sautéd as directed for ox kidneys.

DISHES FROM THE REMAINS OF PORK.

485. HASHED PORK.-Put two spoonfuls of chopped onions into a stewpan, with a wineglassful of vinegar, two cloves, a blade of mace, and a bay-leaf; reduce to half, take out the spice and bay-leaf, add half a pint of broth or water, cut some

pork previously cooked into thin, small slices, season well upon a dish with pepper and salt, shake a good teaspoonful of flour over, mix altogether, and put into the stewpan; let simmer gently ten minutes, pour out upon your dish, and serve with slices of gherkins in it; a little mustard may be added, if approved of, or a little piccalilly with the vinegar is excellent.

The remains of salt pork, though very palatable cold, if required hot may be cut into large thin slices, and placed in a buttered sauté or frying-pan, with a little broth, or merely fried in the butter, and served with a purée of winter peas, made by boiling half a pint of peas until tender (tied up in a cloth); when done, put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter; season with pepper and salt, add a gill of milk or cream, pour into the dish, and dress the pork over.

It may also be cut into thin slices and put into a soup plate, and pour some catsup or Harvey sauce over it, and let it remain for half an hour; butter the inside of a pudding basin, and lay some of the remains of pease pudding round it, and then place in the pork, cover it with some of the pudding, place it in a saucepan with a little water to get hot, for about half an hour, and then turn it out and serve. Should you not have quite pork enough, you may make it up with a little sausage-meat or any other kind of meat.

486. FRITADELLA (twenty receipts in one.)-Put half a pound of crumb of bread to soak in a pint of cold water, take the same quantity of any kind of roast or boiled meat, with a little fat, chop it up like sausage meat, then put your bread in a clean cloth, press it to extract all the water, put into a stewpan two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped onions, fry for two minutes, then add the bread; stir with a wooden spoon until rather dry, then add the meat, season with a teaspoonful of salt, half the same of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the same of lemon peel, stir continually until very hot; then add two eggs, one at a time, well mix together, and pour on a dish to get cold. Then take a piece as big as a small egg, and roll it to the same shape, flatten it a little, egg and bread-crumb over, keeping the shape; do all of it the same way, then put into a sauté-pan a quarter of a pound of lard, or clean fat, or oil; when hot, but not too much so, put in the pieces, and sauté a very nice yellow colour, and serve very hot, plain, on a napkin, or on a border of mashed potatoes, with any sauce or garniture you fancy. These

can be made with the remains of any kind of meat, poultry, game, fish, and even vegetables; hard eggs, or cold mashed potatoes may be introduced in small quantities, and may be fried instead of sautéd, in which case put about two pounds of fat in the frying-pan, and if care is used it will do several times.— (See FRYING, p. 70.) This is an entirely new and very economical and palatable dish, and fit for all seasons, and if once tried would be often repeated; the only expense attending it is the purchase of a small wire sieve for the bread-crumbs. The reason I call it twenty receipts in one is, that all kinds of food may be used for it, even shrimps, oysters, and lobsters.

487. RAMIFOLLE.-These are a little more expensive than the fritadella, and worthy the table of a crowned head. The flesh of fowls instead of lamb or veal, with the addition of one or two fat livers cut in dice. Proceed as in the former receipt, using the crumb of French rolls, and one or two truffles cut fine: then make some pancake batter, and sauté two pancakes about one-eighth of an inch thick, cover one with the meat, &c., and lay the other over, and put by until cold; when so, cut them to any shape you like, but if like cutlets add the small bone of fowl or pigeon, or the stalk of a sprig of parsley, egg and breadcrumb them, and sauté them in oil or lard of a nice yellow colour, and dish them like cutlets, with any of the sauces or garnitures described for mutton cutlets; or if plain, with fried parsley. They may be made of any kind of meat, fish, or poultry. I have latterly had them sent up to table when we have had a few friends, and they have been very much liked; and, on inquiring the name, I baptized them Ramifolle, without any particular meaning, which name having pleased as much as the dish, therefore let them be called Ramifolles.

They may be made a plainer way with various meats or liver, and spread over one pancake, which roll over, and when cold cut it into three equal lengths, egg, bread-crumb, and sauté as above.

488. PRUSSIAN CUTLETS.-Take a piece of veal, say one pound, from any part of the calf, free from nerve, with a little fat, chop it up, but not too fine, add to it two teaspoonfuls of chopped eschalot, one of salt, half a one of pepper, little grated nutmeg, chop it a little more, and make it into pieces of the size of two walnuts, to which give the

shape of a cutlet; egg and bread-crumb each; insert a small bone at the small end, sauté it in fat, oil, lard, or butter, give it ten minutes on a slow fire till a nice brown colour, dish and serve with demi-glaze sauce, in which you have put a spoonful of Harvey's, and serve with any brown or white sauce of stewed vegetables you like. Any kind of meat may be used.

469. CUTLETS À LA VICTIME, or Victimized Cutlets. -Here, ma belle amie, is a terrific title for a receipt; but do not fear it, as the time of the Inquisition is past, and you are not likely to become one in partaking of it. I do not recommend it to you on the score of economy, as it is the tip-top of extravagance, but forward it as a curiosity; and also in case similar circumstances should happen which caused its invention, which I must tell you was done by a culinary artist of Louis XVIII., of France, at the palace of the Tuileries, and first partaken of by that intellectual monarch and gourmet, who, at the end of his stormy reign, through a serious illness, was completely paralysed, and, at the same time, the functionary organs of his digestion were much out of order; being a man of great corpulence, and a great admirer of the festive board, much food was required to satisfy his royal appetite: and the difficulty which his physicians experienced was to supply this want of food in the smallest compass. The head-cook, on being consulted, begged a few hours for reflection before he could give an answer to so important a question, as nothing but mutton entirely deprived of fat was to compose his Majesty's meal. After profound study by the chief and his satellites, a voice was heard from the larder, which was a considerable distance from the kitchen, crying, "I have found it, I have found it." It was that of a young man of the name of Alphonse Pottier, who, in saying so, made his appearance in the kitchen with three beautiful mutton cutlets, tastefully trimmed and tied together; he then, with a small skewer, fastened them to a spit, and placed them, to the astonishment of all present, close to the bars of the grate: two of the cutlets soon got brown (observe, not a word was to be said until the trial was made), from brown they soon turned black; every one gazed at each other in astonishment, whilst Pottier, with quite a composed countenance, terminated his scientific experiment, took them off the spit, drew the skewer out, cut the string, threw the two burnt cutlets away, and merely served the middle one, which seems to have received all the nutriment of the other two; it was served and greatly approved of by the physicians, as well as by the gourmet potentate, who, in consequence of two being sacrificed for one, named it "Cutlet à la Victime," and often afterwards used to partake of them when in the enjoyment of health.

Cut three cutlets; from the neck of mutton, about half an inch thick, trim one very nicely, free from fat, leave the other two as

cut off, put the trimmed one between the two, flatten them together, so that the fat of the outside ones meet over the middle one; tie them together thus, and broil over a very strong fire for ten minutes; remove it from the fire, cut the string, and dish up the middle one only on a very hot dish, with a little salt sprinkled over it. If wanted roasted, proceed as above.

490. ROAST AND BRAISED CHICKEN, for Entrées. -Have a chicken trussed for boiling; put it on a spit, envelope it as for turkey (No. 381), roast half the time or little less, depending on the fire and the size of the chicken; when done, remove it from the spit, and take off the envelope, and serve with any of the following garniture:-jardinière, green peas, oysters, cucumbers, Jerusalem artichokes, white mushroom sauce, ragout of quenelles, juice of tarragon (No. 386), Dutch sauce, with a few heads of cauliflower well boiled, and cut small.

491. BRAISED CHICKEN.-If not convenient to roast, put a little bacon in a stewpan, then a chicken, a large onion, half a carrot, half a head of celery, two bay leaves, two cloves, one peppercorn, one and a half tablespoonful of salt, a little pepper, a bouquet garni, and a quart of water, let simmer till tender; dish up, after having well drained it, take the string off, pour any of the sauces named in the foregoing receipt, over or under them; when the chicken is done, you can make, with the addition of a little more water, a very good purée, and even sauces, and by adding some trimmings of beef, veal, lamb, or mutton, it will make a first-rate clear broth, after being clarified, giving it a proper colour.

492. CHICKEN PLAIN BOILED.—Put two quarts of water into a stewpan, on the fire, or two ounces of butter, and a tablespoonful of salt and a few vegetables; when boiling, rub the breast of the chicken with half a lemon, and put it in to simmer from a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes; if a large fowl, increase the quantity of water, and boil longer; sauce over with parsley and butter, or celery sauce, or any of those for the foregoing: use the broth.

The remains of any of the above, or of turkey, capon, guineafowl, or other poultry, may be dressed as hash, by cutting them into neat pieces; put them into a stewpan, put to it half a tablespoonful of salt, one of flour, half a one of chopped onions, ditto of parsley, a bay-leaf, half a pint of water, a few drops of

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