thinnest half off first; the thickest will require about ten minutes to cook it thoroughly; when done, spread a pat of fresh butter over, and serve upon a very hot dish.

The small Scotch Finnon haddocks are by far the best, and may be cooked whole, being more equally divided, but the side where the bone is left may, perhaps, want another minute, but not sufficient to spoil the other.

Haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled paper, but of course would take rather more time in cooking.

24. WHITINGS.-Of all the modes of preparing and dressing whitings for breakfast I cannot but admire and prize the system pursued by the Scotch, which renders them the most light, wholesome, and delicious food that could possibly be served for breakfast: their method in, to obtain the fish as fresh as possible, clean and skin them, take out the eyes, cover the fish over with salt, immediately after which take them out and shake off the superfluons salt, pass a string through the eye-holes, and hang them up to dry in a passage, or some place where there is a current of air; the next morning take them off, just roll them lightly in a little flour, broil them gently over a slow fire, and serve very hot, with a small piece of fresh butter rubbed over each, or serve quite dry, if preferable.

Any whitings obtained here might be dressed in the same manner and eat very good, but nothing to equal the Scotch small whiting with the skin on; when cleansed, well wiped with a cloth, salted as before, and broiled, may also be served with a maître-d'hôtel butter spread over them.

25. SLIPS, OR SMALL SOLES.-When cleaned, season them with a little pepper and salt, dip lightly into

flour, and broil them slowly over a moderate fire about ten minutes, or according to the size; when done, place them upon a hot dish, pour two tablespoonfuls of cream over and serve immediately. They may of course be served dry, but pouring the cream over is a new and very good idea. Nothing but small white fish could be tolerated for breakfast.

26. SPRATS when nicely cooked are very commendable. Dip them lightly into flour, and place them upon a gridiron over a slow fire; when about half done, turn them; when done (which would be in about five minutes from the time you put them on,) serve dry in a very hot dish.

27. SARDINES.-There are but very few of these delicate little things used in England, yet there is nothing more calculated to give a zest to the appetite at breakfast or luncheon; I suppose it is their high price which prevents their coming much in vogue; but when I have a few visitors my table is never without, and they are really very much approved of; the box of twenty-four cost from two to three shillings, depending on the size of the fish.

28. DRIED SPRATS.-Upon these I put but very little praise, being generally so very dry and salt; they may be eaten plain as they are, or broiled slightly.

MEAT.

29. SHEEP'S KIDNEYS.-Procure as many as you may require for your party, about one each is generally sufficient; be sure that they are fresh, which any person can ascertain by smelling, if not able to judge by their appearance; cut them open very evenly lengthwise, down

to the root, but not to separate them; remove the skin, then have some small iron or wooden skewers, upon which thread the kidneys quite flat, by running the skewer twice through each kidney, that is, under the white part; season them rather highly with pepper and sålt, and place them upon a gridiron, (the inside downwards,) over a sharp fire; in three minutes turn them over, and in about six they will be sufficiently done; then take them off the skewers, place them in a very hot dish, and serve immediately. In opening them be careful to cut them in the centre, for should one half be thicker than the other, one would be dried before the other was sufficiently cooked.

30. KIDNEYS ON TOAST.-Prepare the kidneys precisely as in the last, but when done have ready a piece of hot toast, which butter lightly; lay the kidneys upon it; have ready a small piece of butter, to which you have added a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; place a small piece in the centre of each kidney, and when melted serve.

31. KIDNEYS BREAD-CRUMBED, à la Maîtred' Hôtel.-Prepare the kidneys as before, and when upon the skewer, have ready upon a plate an egg well beat up with a fork; season the kidneys with a little salt and pepper, dip them into the egg, then lightly cover them with bread-crumbs, put them upon the gridiron, which place over a moderate fire, broil them about ten minutes, turning them when half done, have ready a little maîtred'hôtel butter, put about half an ounce in each kidney, and serve immediately upon a very hot dish; by the time it gets upon the table the butter will be melted, and they eat very relishing this way; they may also be served upon toast.

32. SAUTEED KIDNEYS.-Should you not have a fire fit for broiling, put an ounce of butter into a sauté-pan (which of course must be very clean), cut the kidney in halves lengthwise, remove the skin, and when the butter is melted, lay them in, the flat side downwards, having previously well seasoned them with pepper and salt; set the pan on a moderate fire three minutes, then turn them; place them again upon the fire until done; when have ready a piece of dry toast, which place upon a hot dish, pour the kidneys with the butter and gravy over, and serve very hot. Care must be taken in sautéing that the butter does not become burnt.

Another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, or onions, over them whilst being sautéed. This materially changes the flavour, and meets the approbation of many.

For the cooking of mutton chops, steaks, cutlets, broiled fowl, broiled bones, or remnants of poultry or game for breakfast, I must refer you to where they are given as Receipts for the Dinner-table.

HAM, BACON.

33. BACON AND HAM for broiling.-Ham for broiling ought not to be too old or too dry, it would perhaps eat rank. Nothing requires more care than broiling. Either get a slice of ham weighing a quarter of a pound or two ounces, which lay on your gridiron; put it over the fire; it will take perhaps five minutes if the fire is good, and more, of course, if slow; but in that short space of time, turn it three or four times, and it is done. Proceed the same if you want to serve it with poached eggs (see No. 16), but be careful that the eggs be ready at the same time as the bacon or ham, or both would eat badly. If you happen to have a whole ham by you for that purpose only, as is often the case at a farmhouse,

begin to cut the slices in a slanting direction, and the same thickness, and proceed to the end of the ham with the remainder. It will prove more profitable to broil with greens, peas, broad beans, &c. &c.

To sauté, put a little butter or good fat in the pan; set it on the fire with the slice in it, sauté very gently, turning very often, and serve on very thin toast.

34. HAM AND EGGS.-While your ham is doing, break two fresh eggs in the pan, season slightly with salt and pepper, set it before the fire till the eggs are delicately done, and slip them whole carefully into your dish, without breaking the yolk.

35. BACON.-The streaked part of a thick flank of bacon is to be preferred; cut nice slices, not above a quarter of an inch thick, take off the rind, put to broil on the gridiron over a clear fire; turn it three or four times in the space of five minutes: this will be all the cooking required. Serve it very hot. Though this is the best part, the whole of the bacon is good, especially if not rank, which can be easily detected by its yellowish colour; if too dry or salt, after it has been cut in slices, dip it into a little vinegar and water three or four times, and sauté as usual; it will make it softer and less salt. Serve as usual. If any remain after a dinner of boiled bacon, it is also very good broiled or fried for next day's breakfast. Broiled and boiled bacon has been highly recommended to the dyspeptic.

36. SAUSAGES. Sausages are very frequently esteemed for breakfast; the Cambridge are most in vogue; but the best I ever tasted were made a present to me by Sir George Chetwynd, Bart., made by a country pork butcher at Atherstone, a small town near Grendon Hall, the country seat of the above-mentioned baronet. They are more plainly made, and also better seasoned, and not subject to burst like the Cambridge ones, or, at all events, those made in London under that name. Oxford produces good sausages,

C