180. HORSERADISH SAUCE.-Take half a stick of scraped horseradish of the usual size, grate it well, add to it a teaspoonful of mustard, a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper; and one teaspoonful of sugar; when mixed, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and two teaspoonfuls of cream, and moisten it, until a proper consistency, with a little milk.

181. WILD FOWL SAUCE.-The following is a good sauce; the quantities are given for one wild duck.

Walnut catsup one tablespoonful; the same of Harvey's or Worcestershire sauce, the same of lemon-juice, a wineglass of red wine, a good slice of lemon-peel, one eschalot, minced, half a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper, one blade of mace, and a wine-glassful of gravy; boil ten minutes, serve very hot, and pour over the bird when cut up.

182. FUMET DE GIBIER SAUCE.-Take the remains or bones of game, (the back-bones of grouse are best,) chop them up small, put them in a stewpan, with a glass of white wine, an onion, a small piece of carrot, and of turnip sliced, a leaf of celery, a sprig of thyme, the same of parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove, half a blade of mace; stir over the fire five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce, if too thick add some water, boil for about twenty minutes, skim, strain, and serve; a little lemon-juice and cayenne pepper may be added if approved of.

183. CAPER SAUCE.-Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, add one ounce of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of capers; shake the stewpan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and serve where directed.

SOUPS.

IN France, no dinner is served without soup, and no good soup is supposed to be made without the pot-au-feu (See No. 228), it being the national dish of the middle and poorer classes of that country. I think it might be of service to the working classes, as by it they would be oftener able to partake of a hot dinner, the advantages to be derived from which, in a cold climate like ours, I have already remarked upon. Clear light soups are very delicate, and in this country more fit for the wealthy; whilst the more substantial thick soups, such as mock turtle, ox tail, peas, &c., are more in vogue, consequent upon being better adapted for the million, as a less quantity is more satisfying; therefore, after giving a few series of clear soups, I shall proceed to give a greater variety of the thicker sorts, being careful that every receipt shall be so plain as to give a correct idea of its cost.

184. STOCK FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUP.-Procure a knuckle of veal about six pounds in weight, which cut into pieces about the size of an egg, as also half a pound of lean ham or bacon; then rub a quarter of a pound of butter upon the bottom of the stewpan (capable of holding about two gallons), into which put the meat and bacon, with half a pint of water, two ounces of salt, three middle-sized onions, with two cloves in each, one turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half a head of celery; put the cover upon the stewpan, which place over a sharp fire, occasionally stirring round its contents with a wooden spoon, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a white thickish glaze, which will lightly adhere to the spoon; fill up the stewpan with cold water, and when upon the point of boiling, draw it to the corner of the fire, where it must gently simmer for three hours, carefully skimming off every particle of grease and scum; pass your stock through a fine hair sieve, and it is ready for use when required.

The above will make a delicious broth for all kinds of

clear soups, and of course for thick soups or purées; by boiling it rather faster about five minutes before passing, you will be better enabled to take off every particle of grease from the surface. In making a stock of beef proceed as above, but allow double the time to simmer; mutton or lamb, if any trimmings, might also be used; if beef, use seven pounds; if mutton, eight; or lamb, seven, of course bones and all included; with care, this broth would be quite clear. To give a little colour, as required for all clear soups, use a little brown gravy or browning, but never attempt to brown it by letting it colour at the bottom of the stewpan, for in that case you would destroy the greater part of the osmazome.

185. ANOTHER WAY, MORE ECONOMICAL.-Instead of cutting up the knuckle of veal so small, cut it in four or five pieces only, and leave the bacon in one piece; then, when the broth is passed, take out the veal, which is very excellent served with a little of the broth for gravy, and the bacon with a few greens upon another dish. This is as I always eat it myself; but some persons may probably prefer a little parsley-and-butter sauce or piquante sauce, served with it. Should any of the veal be left until cold, it might be cut into thin slices, and gradually warmed in either of the before-mentioned sauces. Should you make your stock from the leg or shin of beef, stew it double the time, preserve the vegetables boiled in the stock, and serve with beef, or serve the beef with some nice sharp sauce over; the remainder, if cold, may also be hashed in the ordinary way. If of mutton, and you have used the scrags of the neck, the breast, head, or the chump of the loin, keep them in as large pieces as possible; and, when done, serve with a few mashed turnips, and caper sauce, separately; if any re

maining until cold, mince it.

Lamb would be seldom used for stock, being much too expensive; but in case of an abundance, which may sometimes happen in the country, proceed the same as for mutton.

186. BROWN GRAVIES.-Rub an ounce of butter over the bottom of a stewpan capable of holding about three quarts; have ready peeled four onions, cut them into thick slices, with which cover the bottom of the stewpan; over these lay about three pounds of beef from the leg or shin, cut into thin slices, with the bone chopped very small; add a small carrot, a turnip cut in slices, and a couple of cloves; set the stewpan upon a gentle fire for ten minutes, shaking it round occasionally to prevent burning; after which let it go upon a slow fire for upwards of an hour, until the bottom is covered with a blackish glaze; but not burnt; when properly done, and ready for filling up, you will perceive the fat that runs from the meat quite clear, fill up the stewpan with cold water, add a teaspoonful of salt; and when upon the point of boiling, set it on a corner of the fire, where let it simmer gently about an hour, skimming off all the fat and scum which may rise to the surface; when done pass it through a fine sieve into a basin, and put by to use for the following purposes: For every kind of roast meat, poultry, or game especially; also, to give a good colour to soups and This gravy will keep (several days, by boiling it every other day. Although beef is the most proper meat for the above purpose, it may be made of veal, mutton, lamb, or even with fresh pork, rabbits, or poultry.

sauces.

187. BROWNING.-When in business, and not so much time to devote to the kitchen, I used to make shift with a browning from the following receipt, using, how

ever, but a very few drops: put two ounces of powdered sugar into a middling-sized stewpan, which place over a slow fire; when beginning to melt, stir it round with a wooden spoon until getting quite black, then pour over half a pint of cold water: leave it to dissolve, and take a little for use when required. Burnt onions are used in France for this purpose.

188. GLAZE is an almost indispensable article in a cuisine bourgeoise, and should be kept by all persons in the middle classes of life, the advantage being that it will keep for months together, is very simple to make, and is always useful in cookery, however so humble; in fact, with it you can dress a very good dinner with very little trouble.

Make a stock as directed in No. 184, but omitting the salt, which, when done, pass through a cloth into a basin; then fill the stewpan up a second time with hot water, and let boil four hours longer to obtain all the succulence from the meat, then pass it through a cloth the same as the first; then pour both stocks in a large stewpan together, set it over the fire, and let it boil as fast as possible, leaving a large spoon in, to stir occasionally and prevent its boiling over; when reduced to about three pints, pour it into a smaller stewpan, set again to boil at the corner, skimming well if required; when reduced to a quart, place it quite over the fire, well stirring with a wooden spoon until forming a thickish glaze (which will adhere to the spoon) of a fine yellowish-brown colour: pour it into a basin, or, if for keeping any time, into a long bladder, from which cut a slice and use where directed.

Where, however, only a small quantity is required, reduce only the second stock, using the first for either soup