common name of Republic, comprehended | M. Mugge soon found that though the imalmost every variety, from the most com- posts of the government were light, those plete democracy, through various forms of of the innkeepers were enormously heavy. oligarchy, up even to the limits of absolute In the little town of Schaffhausen, one of monarchy in Prussian Neufchatel. the branches of industry carried on with Instead, therefore, of wondering that a the greatest vigor is the "exploitation" of confederacy composed of so many hetero- strangers who come to gaze at the beauties geneous materials should not always remain of the falls of the Rhine; and the approach perfectly united, we shall be rather inclined of the migratory flocks of travellers is to ask what is the powerful bond which has watched for as anxiously in its season as in hitherto cemented together elements so some other countries that of the birds or discordant. We believe that bond to be a fish, which make an important part of the deep and well-grounded conviction in the people's subsistence. "A fine summer minds of the Swiss, that whatever may be brings thousands of the welcome gold-scatthe defects of their political institutions, tering guests-a bad one keeps them back; they are, beyond comparison, preferable to and since every Swiss brings with him into those of the countries by which they are the world as an original instinct, the prosurrounded; and although the organs of pensity to money-making, it is an occasion arbitrary governments, in the German press of national mourning when the state of the in particular, lose no opportunity of ex- weather seems to threaten a bad harvest of pressing themselves shocked at the commo- tourists." It is hardly necessary to say, tions of Switzerland, and of thanking that the concourse of idle visitors tends in heaven that they are not as these men," Switzerland, as everywhere else, greatly to yet the Swiss themselves are often greatly the demoralization of the people, and is amused at the pity bestowed upon them, unquestionably one of the obstacles in the and could be tempted, by no possible in- way of their happiness and true progress. ducement, to exchange a system which The extortions of innkeepers had it affords them so many solid advantages for seems at one time risen to such a height, tranquillity beneath a paternal gripe like as to threaten to work its own cure by depriving them of their accustomed prey;

that of Austria.

The unhappy dissensions to which the and they found it expedient to enter into country is at present a prey need not make a coalition, and agree to carry on their us forget the whole previous course of its predatory occupation for the future with history; and if we compare the amount of more moderation, since when, travellers ensuffering experienced by Switzerland from joy the advantage of regular though severe war and civil discord in the five hundred laws, in place of being subjected to unceryears during which the Confederacy has tain piracy. The allied innkeepers, whose subsisted, with that endured by any monarchy in the same period, the result of the comparison will certainly not be in favor of the latter.

names are to be found in most guide books, have established a price current, according to which every guest is to be fleeced; and whether his dinner be good or bad, abunOne of the first symptoms by which the dant or scanty, he has the satisfaction of author perceived that he had entered the always knowing what he is to pay for it. Swiss territory, although the soil and its At the moment of M. Mugge's arrival, productions, the people and their language, the city of Schaffhausen was preparing for were exactly similar, was the negative the celebration of a festival of one of those blessing of the absence on the frontier of many associations for rifle-shooting, music, gens-d'armes, or custom-house officers, and or other purposes, ostensibly of amusement, the pleasant consciousness that neither he which have arisen in Switzerland since nor his luggage would have to be subjected 1815, and which have had, he thinks, no to scrutiny in search of passports or contra- small share in bringing about the subseband goods. He learned also that in the quent movements, "by contributing to republic of Schaffhausen, which he had now keep alive the consciousness of freedom, entered, the taxes paid by the inhabitants and a feeling of brotherhood among the did not amount to more than about eighteen citizens of different cantons." pence a head per annum, while their neigh- The ruling powers have not been blind, bors across the frontier, who rejoice in a however, to the dangerous opportunities Grand-Duke, pay eight times that amount. these meetings might afford-indeed have But how short-lived is human happiness! afforded-for the expression of discontent,

and for the formation of societies for very who would fain keep the people in ignorance different purposes; but they could not at- and slavery, and establish their own power on tempt to suppress them; and the radicals, the ruins of Switzerland. A school director, from Aargau, 'followed on the same side,' who have gained so entirely the upper hand in the largest cantons, have mostly been dis-spiritual darkness, lies, Jesuits and Jesuitism, warning the people against narrow-mindedness, tinguished members of these associations and declaring he saw symptoms of a renewal of Counsellors, deputies, presidents and bur- social harmony, in the love of music that had gomasters have been taken from their that day brought them together. The Landamranks, and the societies have served as man of Aargau condemned the caprice and insin

props to their power, and rallying points in cerity of party, and exhorted his hearers times of danger; "but the old aristocrats to remain true to their personal convictions. have always kept aloof from them, and the two clergymen, from the banks of the lake of The best of the really popular speakers were great majority of their members has al-Zurich, who made very humorous speeches, ways consisted of young men of the middle full of allusions, that were taken up with enclasses." thusiasm by the assembly."

"The present meeting at Schaffhausen was on the occasion of a musical festival, to be cele

To M. Mugge, as a German, there was brated on the 14th and 15th of June, 1846, and something striking and attractive in the bold, guests were streaming in from far and near, not free tone of the speakers on this occasionmerely from various parts of Switzerland, but their calling things at once by their names, also from Germany. instead of seeking to envelope their mean

"The quiet old town was dressed out in all ing in a thousand ambiguous coveringsthe holiday finery that could be mustered; the and in the circumstance of their addressing old stone houses were hung all over with gar- themselves to the assembled people, withlands of leaves and flowers, which were also

sometimes suspended across the street; and the out any one fearing any of the awful consegates were decorated till they looked like tri-quences which, in Germany, are supposed umphal arches; and mottoes and sentences to result from their participation in political some of welcome to the visitors, some to the knowledge. "In Switzerland it is by no honor and glory of Switzerland, and sometimes means necessary to be a Radical to admit exhortations to unity, or to faithfulness, and that the people have a full right to hear devotion to the cause of liberty, were introduced whatever their fellow citizens may have to in a hundred places through which the throng say to them."

steam-boat.

66

was pouring in-in carriage, on foot, or in The early history of the country, and the On the great market-place of the town, memory of the men who laid the founcalled the Herrenacker, or Lords' Field-where, dation of its freedom, are sure to find a place in former days, knights and nobles held tourna- among the stock topics of orators on these ments-was erected, at the expense of the city, occasions. The valor, the fidelity, the puthe grand banqueting booth, where eight or rity of morals, the unquenchable love of nine hundred of the singers and their friends liberty, which belong, or are supposed to were entertained till a late hour in the night, belong, to the character of the Confederates, and where were made the political speeches, form appropriate subjects for compliment ; never wanting at any Swiss meeting. There were, of course, a good many oratorical flour- and William Tell, Winkelried, or some ishes; introduced to tickle the vanity of the au- other hero of the olden time, never fails to ditory; but there was also many a true, earnest, make his appearance in due season, and to and kindling word uttered, that would not be produce his due effect. "William Tell is readily forgotten. the weak side of the Swiss; they believe "The president of the association, M. Schen- in him as in the Gospel, and will not yield kel, made a very animated speech, in which he to criticism one iota of his story; although extolled his native country as having been for ages an island of freedom and refuge for many it is in fact a matter of very little consewho might have perished in the political storms quence to them whether such a person as of surrounding nations. He declared that the marksman of Uri ever lived or no.' Switzerland was resolved never to shrink from Against this opinion of Herr Mugge we any struggle which should lie in the way to a must take leave to protest; and the actrue victory, and feared only torpor, indiffer- knowledged powers of German criticism ence, and a peace which was the peace of the could, in our opinion scarcely be worse em"Several speakers rose after him who spoke ployed than in endeavoring to extinguish forcibly on the subject of the present dissen- the glory of a name that has kept alive the sions; and a M. Bentz, from Zurich, pronounced fire of patriotism in the hearts of successive a philippic against the Jesuits and their allies, generations for five hundred years. In the

grave.

present divided and distracted state Switzerland, there are but too few of such rallying points for the affections.

of place where their fortified gates once stood. Many have for years not been able to resolve to set foot on any of these desecrated spots, though it is very The old town of Zurich, with its dull narrow hard to know what in fact they are grieving about. streets, and tall, gloomy, old houses, whose narrow windows admit scarcely any light, is assuredly no agreeable place of abode.

The enthusiasm with which the Swiss, sober as they are, look back to this period of their history, was exemplified on this occasion by the applause they bestowed on certain broad-shouldered men of Schaffhau- "But on the site of the ancient fortifications, sen, who, attired in the costume of the magnificent mansions are to be found, built quite thirteenth or fourteenth century, with long in the modern style, with gardens and all improvebeards and enormous halberts, and looking reach up to the declivity of the mountain, stately ments. Far-stretching streets and roads, that appropriately grim, were planted at the public buildings-as, for instance, the Cantonal gates which the choruses of singers had School, and the new Hospital, bearing witness to to pass through, and greeted, as the play- the impulse which its young freedom has given to bills have it, with "immense applause." their city-might, one would think, console these We pass the remainder of the festival, worshippers of the past for their lost privileges, and the natural but delusive anticipations and if they could be induced to reflect on the tranof the restoration of peace and goodwill in sitory nature of all earthly advantages, teach them not to think of these as of a property of which the hearts of those who could thus unite, they have been robbed. for purposes of social and refined enjoyment, to accompany the traveller to Zurich, "the intellectual centre of German Switzerland."

"The Commune of Hottingen, with its beautiful buildings, raising its head as if in triumph above the old town, is wholly the work of the last fifteen years. This is the place to live in for Few if any of the Cantons are more fa- any one who wishes to make any stay in Zurich, vored by nature, for fertility of soil and and to become well acquainted with the country. mildness of climate. To its abundant pro- ed here than in any other part of Switzerland. A stranger will find himself more pleasantly situat ductiveness in corn and wine and fruit, and Zurich is not only most distinguished for intellectual the active industry which secures its mate-activity, and the residence of many men of emirial prosperity, it unites the advantage of nent attainments, it is also the gayest and most a greater unity among the inhabitants, who pleasure-taking place in the country, is surroundare nearly all Protestants of German race, is legion, and which, by their beautiful situation, ed with coffee gardens and taverns, whose name and followers of their native reformer, offer the greatest attraction to the visitor.” Zwinglius.

Zurich has been particularly favored in "Few great towns in Switzerland can boast of environs of such surpassing beauty; the country the beauty of its position. It lies on the round is like one great garden full of orchards and point of transition, just where the gentle vineyards, corn-fields and rich plantations of every hills begin to assume a mountainous chakind. Not a spot of waste land is to be seen, and racter. The hill on the eastern shore of every foot of ground has yielded its tribute to the the lake, on whose slope lies the village of industrious hand of man; while scattered all round Hottingen, is not more than six hundred lie the clean, neat, comfortable dwellings of the feet high, but on the south-west the waters owners of these industrious hands. Along the two shores of the lake of Zurich, runs a continued bathe the foot of the Albis chain, whose chain of country houses, manufactories, farms, summits reach a height of nearly three villages, peasants' cottages, and the dwellings of thousand feet above the sea. From these industrious weavers and artizans. The city seems we obtain the first glimpse into the mounto throw out two arms around the bright water-tain world of the chalk formation-the Rigi polypus arms of prosperity and industry, which and Mount Pilate, the peaks and horns of reach even into the lap of the mountains. "Fine roads also run along both shores of the Schwyz, and the mountains of Glarus and lake, which form the frontiers of several Cantons, St. Gallen-seldom visible, however, from and meet in Zurich, which in the course of the Zurich, unless at sunset or before rain, last fifteen years, has begun a new era of political when the atmosphere has a peculiar translife. The ancient walls and bastions have been parency.

broken down; the remains of the dark prison One of the circumstances most striking tower on the lake, which has so often echoed to to a stranger in Zurich, is the evidence of the sighs of the victims of the old aristocracy, republican equality afforded by the mixture have sunk in its waves, and a new and brighter of ranks in the beer and coffee-houses. day of freedom has dawned upon the people.

"There are indeed still among the old citizens Reigning burgomasters, deputies, judges, those who sigh for the good old times, and shake presidents, counsellors-all the first men of their heads mournfully as they contemplate the the radical party-are to be met with smok

ing their modest cigars and drinking their arms and breast-a method of rowing that must unpretending beer.

be excessively fatiguing. The heaviest of the vessels employed sometimes carry a square sail, "By this abolition of all attempts at exclusive- but on these mountain lakes these require the ness Zurich gains much in freedom of movement, greatest caution—as sudden squalls often break and amalgamation of different classes, which must through the rocky clefts and ravines, which throw lead to good results, and is perfectly in harmony the waters into such violent commotion as to with a republic." compel all vessels to run immediately for shelter. "The lake of the Four Cantons, though lying

Whether it may be judicious in the chiefs about thirteen hundred feet above the level of the of a republic thus to cast aside all the dig- breadth very unequal. It is hemmed in by rocks sea, is nine hundred feet deep in some parts; in nity of office, is a point that may, never- from six to eight thousand feet high-of wild theless, admit of discussion. The "di- and magnificent form. On the banks of this beauvinity that doth hedge" a burgomaster can, tiful lake the formations of sandstone separate we apprehend, hardly bear such familiarity, from the chalk, which lies heaped upon its and they might, perhaps, be wiser to keep southern shores in vast piles. their state and eschew the beer-shops. The following passage gives a pleasing picture of the condition of the people ::

This lake is both geographically and historibasin lie the four states which formed the first concally the centre of Switzerland, and around its federacy. Lucerne occupies the west; looking down the deep bays to the right we see the towers "On a fine bright Sunday Zurich is full of of Stanz, the principal town, or rather village, of life and movement. Troops of well-dressed Unterwalden; following the winding of the lake people are seen pouring out over the hills and to its southern point Uri lies before us; and on the meadows, or the beautiful shores of the lake, left rise the summits of Küssnacht and Rigi, bewhile other pleasure-seekers float about in gaily neath which, on the declivities of its mountains, decked boats and gondolas on its blue surface, or reposes the beautiful canton of Schwyz. crowd the numerous and picturesque places of other lake equals it in grandeur of scenery, or in public resort, and the prosperity of the city is variety of light and shade; in snowy peaks and evidenced by the dress of the ladies and gentle- glaciers, lovely meadows, valleys whose deep rich men, the style of the carriages and horses, and green contrasts alternately with the dark forest the mass of the people who are abroad in search and dark grey naked rock, or the fertile sunny of enjoyment." spots along its margin.

No

"This rapid change of scenery is, however, one of the peculiar characteristics of Switzerland, where fat cattle graze up to the very edge of the by ice and snow. glaciers, and fruit trees blossom almost overhung

steep rocky paths, the narrow passes, the deep valleys, with their smooth inaccessible walls, we

The coffee-houses serve, it seems, as what artizans denominate "houses of call" for the various political opinions. Every one knows where his friends and partizans are "It is scarcely possible at a distance to conto be found, and many of the citizens of ceive how these minikin pastoral states could ever Zurich find it, according to our author, in- have been able to offer the resistance they did to dispensable to their happiness to visit some the Dukes of Austria. But at the sight of the one of these places every evening to drink coffee, read the papers, and play at the interesting and intellectual game of dominoes. As these are, however, pleasures, which, however delightful in enjoyment, are apt to be somewhat tiresome in description-we pass at once to the very different scenes presented by the still life of pastoral Switzerland.

cease to wonder at this, or at their similar success in the obstinate struggle with the French in 1798. A few hundred men could in many places easily maintain their ground against as many thousands. Behind projecting points of rock they might take aim and load and re-load deliberately, long before a foe less acquainted with the country could find the way to ascend the heights. In the attack on Stanz, for instance, at the above-mentioned period, an old man with his two sons-in-law, supported by their wives and children, who loaded their guns for them, shot hundreds of the French before they could find the path, by which they at last reached and surrounded the heroic family, but then bayonet and sabres did their work on every member of it. Against 20,000 of these men, properly armed, on their native mountains, the best army in Europe could do nothing. Their artillery and cavalry would be totally useless."

"I went down the lake of the Four Cantons in a steamer to Brunnen, the landing place for Schwyz, and if any of the Swiss lakes resemble the fiords of Norway, it is this, with its high, rocky, wildly romantic shores, its deep bays and groups of firs crowning the most precipitous crags, and its air of profound loneliness. The old method of traversing these waters, by sail or oar, is both more expensive and more uncertain, for the art of navigation in either way is in its infancy here. The craft is of the clumsiest description, keel boats are unknown-oars are used crossed-the The canton of Unterwalden, small as it man standing and pushing them from him with is, is divided into two half cantons-Nied

wald and Obwald-each of which has its times even pass as if by inheritance from father to general assembly, its great and small coun- son, or at all events remain in the circle of certain cils, and other independent authorities. families, which, becoming allied by blood and Nature has determined that it shall be, in the resolution to allow of no innovations." marriage, form an indissoluble league firmly united like Uri and Schwyz, wholly a land of herdsmen; cheese and butter are made in abundance, and cattle and wood also bring ask how it has happened that a form of Our readers perhaps may be inclined to in money. The rushing mountain torrents set in motion more than forty saw-mills, government, which on a superficial glance and there has been a cotton-mill erected, while the letter remains the same, in spirit appears the extreme of democracy, should, besides paper-mills, rope-manufactories, have become so much the reverse? We &c., though these establishments are only believe it arose in this way. On first in their infancy, and they have been chiefly set on foot by the monks of Engelberg and gaining their independence the cantons registered the names of all the inhabitants, and assigned to each a portion of land; "The inhabitants live in small villages and but they were registered by their names acscattered farms; there is no such thing as a town cording to families, and not to the districts in all Obwald; whose inhabitants, cut off from they inhabited, and, therefore, though it the world, and following their cattle along their was settled at that time that the whole elevated valleys and Alpine pastures, are usually body of citizens beyond the age of sixteen content to leave to the monks the care of all other should be members of the General Assemtemporal affairs, as well as the welfare of their

of other convents.

commands of God."

souls. The monks have money and lands, and bly, in which the sovereign power resided, take very good care that no one meddles with as the number of original families declined their revenues; and they have it also in their this body necessarily became smaller and power to prevent the establishment of any rivals to smaller. Since 1681 no one in Unterwaltheir commercial undertakings. With a few in den has been allowed to obtain citizenship fluential families they are on the best possible by purchase. The jealousy with which this terms: and the mass of the people is so depen- right is guarded is at least intelligible, dent, so humble, and so pious, that the abbot or when we consider that all who are recogthe priest may say what he pleases, and be always sure that his words will be listened to as the nised as citizens have a right to share in the wood, hay, and pastures of the Alps of the commune, and the old corporation is, of The separation of Unterwalden took course, unwilling to admit new claimants. place as early as the year 1366, and its Those who, in addition to these rights of condition is very little altered from what it the commune, possess Alps and forests of was at that remote period. Whatever their own, are the capitalists of the counchanges were effected during the brief do- try, in whose hands, or in those of their minion of the Helvetic republic, were im- families, the government has lain from time mediately reversed on its overthrow, and immemorial. the state of things restored which had subsisted for ages past.

It is, of course, not very easy for property to be dissipated among a people whose customs and mode of life are so simple, and of the communal lands nothing can be alienated.

age of

"It seems as if for these cantons time had been annihilated; the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries still hang over these mountains, and Women as well as men enjoy the econobring forth the men as unchanged as the herbs and grass beneath their feet. The men of Un-mical, if not the political rights of comterwalden and Uri live as their forefathers did; monality, but either must be of the they have little book learning, and desire no twenty-five years, and have light and more; they have faith in their Great Council and fire" of their own, as not heads but firetheir Little Council, their Weekly Council and hearths are counted, as among the Tartar their Council Extraordinary, and willingly aban- tribes who count the population by ketdon to a few families all claim to offices of go-tles. It is common, for this reason, for vernment, especially as these are either miserably young men and women to keep house for "In this circumstance lies one of the chief causes themselves, and even those who go out to why the caste of reigning families has established work for others have always a little abode itself so firmly in Schwyz, Uri, Unterwalden, and of their own, that they may not lose the adall the small cantons. None but people of some

ill paid, or not paid at all.

property can undertake the offices of government; *It was thus at least in Appenzell, and probably and many of these are given for life, and some-in other cantons also.