Imagens da página
PDF
ePub

tributed to such persons as may be cast away upon the island, and have the misfortune to require these supplies. Boards are also placed in different points of the coast, inscribed with directions to those Houses of Mercy.

In sailing up this magnificent river, the eye is constantly relieved by the most delightful and evervarying little Islands, which are covered with trees and shrubs of every form and hue; and which, -with the innumerable farm-houses on each side of the river, and the lofty mountains "crested with trees" whose cloud-exploring tops terminate the view, form a picture of nature, at once reviving and romantic. But of all those islands with which this great estuary of waters is decorated, the Bird Isles, situate in the Gulf, are the most remarkable and curious. Strictly speaking, they are nothing more than two large rocks, elevated to an immense height above the river, the circumference of whose summits scarcely amounts to 150 perches. In the numerous cavities of these rocks, millions of birds annually build their nests and produce their young. Pilots, and sportsmen from the neighbouring settlements, frequently disturb them in this barren retreat; and, by climbing sometimes to the highest eminences, rob them of their eggs, which the pilots carry to market at Quebec, and vend at as high a price as is usually obtained for the eggs of domestic fowls. The rocks appear at a distance to be clothed in white, on account of the prodigious quantity of ordure and feathers with which they

are covered; and the birds, when compelled to take wing, completely obscure the water, over which they fly, with the shadow of their numbers.

The Island of Bonaventure is also frequented by an astonishing assemblage of Gannets or Soland Geese, which during summer abandon the Southern countries, and take up their abode in this island, where they bring forth their young; and, after that object has been effected, they instinctively migrate again to a more Southerly climate. These birds are said to be very fieroe, during the time of incubation, and to possess incredible strength. They never shrink from attacking their despoilers; and the severe incision inflicted by their bite, which is generally directed to the eye, frequently compels their assailants to retreat with wounds of no inconsiderable magnitude.

The shores on each side of the Gulph of St. Lawrence exhibit a most striking picture, and fully realise to the beholder the many descriptions given us by poets and novelists. Lofty mountains, covered with stunted trees, are intersected by numerous and foaming cataracts, which tumble over pendent rocks and over-hanging banks, until they rush into the mighty ocean. Perhaps no country on earth exhibits a more wild and repulsive aspect, or affords greater sources of enjoyment to the lovers of terrific scenery. A large portion of it is almost unknown to civilised man, and is chiefly frequented by the ferocious beasts of the vast wilderness, and by their equally indomitable hunters. Its appearance

is most uninviting, and awakens in the mind few feelings, except such as are the most unpleasurable and repugnant. Unfruitful soil, frowning rocks, stunted trees, and roaring cataracts, are the most prominent and engaging features which it offers for attraction.

As we remained twelve days in the river, I had frequent opportunities of going ashore in various places. On Green Island, I saw, for the first time, one of the aborigines of the country. She was a female, and her covering was a large brown cloth shawl, thrown rather carelessly over her shoulders and reaching down to the knee. Her legs were loosely bandaged with cloth of a similar colour. Her feet were bare; but she appeared to tread the ground as if unaccustomed to walk without shoes or moccassins. Her skin was an exact copper colour; and her hair, which almost touched the ground, was black as the moonless midnight. Her countenance was mild, placid, and unassuming. Her accent was not disagreeable, nor was there any thing particularly coarse or unpolished in her manners. On the whole, I think she exhibited as much of cultivation, as we commonly see in the countenance, manners, or address of uneducated females, however favoured with the example of surrounding millions; and as . I conversed with her, for she understood English well, - various and opposite emotions fluctuated within my mind.

[blocks in formation]
[ocr errors]

[ocr errors]

Regret, admiration, and astonishment rapidly succeeded each other; REGRET, when I reflected that so many of this unfortunate race are permitted to live and die uninstructed, unpitied, and contemned;-ADMIRATION, as I gazed upon

The charms her downcast modesty concealed ;

and ASTONISHMENT, when, instead of a wild savage, I beheld a being endued with all those nameless graces, which irresistibly impel us to admire the female character, even when beauty is wholly excluded.

I was accompanied to the Isle of Orleans by Captain Blake, Mr. Hardy, Mr. Burton, Mr. Geary, and my brother. Immediately after landing on the shore, we proceeded to the house of a Canadian pilot, for the purpose of soliciting permission to inter another of those little ones in whose burial we were then daily employed. We knocked at the door, which was immediately opened by a female elegantly attired in black silk, whom, if we had judged merely by outward appearances, we should have supposed to be an European Countess, and not the wife of a Canadian pilot. After apologizing for our intrusion, we acquainted her in English with the mournful object of our mission. She replied, with a smile, "Je ne puis pas parler Anglois." One of the company then addressed her in French, informing her, "that we "came to solicit permission to inter a child, which

[ocr errors]

"had died the preceding night and then lay upon "the shore." She very politely acceded to our request, sent a man to point out a spot in which we might deposit the body, and afterwards kindly invited us to return and partake of some refreshment. It is needless to observe, that we availed ourselves of this friendly invitation; for we had been long pent up within the confined bounds of a ship, and had consequently enjoyed no change of society. When we came back from the funeral, we were introduced into an apartment, which would not disgrace the most splendid mansion in Europe. We found a most delicious beverage prepared for us; it was composed of Jamaica spirits, new milk and maple sugar. Of this rare and unexpected treat we partook with delight; and, after having spent nearly an hour, in applauding the liberality of our hostess, and admiring the neatness and cleanliness of her inimitable little cottage, we returned to the ship, highly pleased, and much prepossessed in favour of Canadian hospitality.

The soil of Orleans, though it is said to be richer than any in the province of Lower Canada, appeared to us to be of a very inferior quality. The wheat, which is now ripening, would in Europe be considered scarcely worth reaping. Potatoes looked better, and tobacco was luxuriant; but it is evident, that little, if any, attention is paid to the cultivation of the soil. Time was, indeed, within our own recollection, when nearly

« AnteriorContinuar »