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and Cairo, the capital of Egypt. From souf Kavass, less wealthy than himCairo we travelled to Kartoom, at the self. This brother was, however, a forks of the Nile, and thence to Gon- very kind-hearted man, and treated his dar, the capital of Abyssinia, where slaves, a Nubian, a native of Sennar, we stayed only twenty-four hours, my and myself, very kindly. While in master being in continual fear of his this service I became known to Prince life from the natives, who differed from Mentchikoff, the Envoy Extraordinary him in belief, and then started for of Russia at Constantinople, and was Zela, a port on the Red Sea. From finally sold to him by my master. At Zela we sailed to Muscat, and thence the declaration of the Crimean war, proceeded to Mecca. I had not come after sending his things on board the of my own free will and for the express Russian steamer Vladimir, the Prince purpose of a pilgrimage, and therefore started with despatches for his august I was not permitted to go with Daoud master, via Corfu, Athens, Zara, Trito the grave of the Prophet, and was este, Vienna, Cracow, and Warsaw, to obliged to content myself without the St. Petersburg. I accompanied him on title of Hadji, which is one much re- the journey, and, as the despatches spected among the Mohammedans. were of the utmost importance, we We had returned as far as Alexandria travelled with the greatest speed. on our way home, when my master was The house of my master, to which informed that his store and a great we went, in St. Petersburg, was situdeal of property, in fact, all his goods ated on the Nevskoi Prospekt, the and money, had been destroyed by fire. Broadway of the city, and was built This made the good man almost crazy. of granite, in the Doric style, and very He did not hesitate to tell me that he spacious. His family consisted of his should have to sell me; but said that wife, one son, and three daughters, he would take care that I should have while his servants numbered about a rich and good master, a promise thirty. The Prince, however, was not which he kept. The next day, with the so immensely rich as some Russian present of a good suit of clothes, I aristocrats of his standing. Shortly was put on board a vessel bound for after his arrival at St. Petersburg, Smyrna and Constantinople. I was to Prince Mentchikoff was assigned to be landed at the former city. On this command in the army of the Crimea, vessel was a young man of eighteen, and he hastened there, leaving me in one of the crew, who spoke my own St. Petersburg. After his departure, language. I have heard it only twice, not being satisfied with the way in I think, since that time.
which the head servant treated me, I At Smyrna I was sold to a Turkish engaged service with Prince Nicholas officer, Yousouf Effendi, a very wealthy Troubetzkoy. man, and brother-in-law to the cele- This family, better known as Le brated Reschid Pacha, the Minister of Grand Troubetzkoy, are descendants Foreign Affairs. He had a great many of the Grand Duke of Lithuania. The houses in Smyrna, as well as Con Prince's father was noted for skill and stantinople. We sailed the next day bravery in the war of 1828. The Troufor the latter city in a man-of-war betzkoys claim relationship with the steamer, the Abdul Medjid. My duty Emperor of France, the Duc de Morwas that of a Tchidboudji, which con- ny, the half-brother of the Emperor, sists in filling and cleaning the pipes having married the daughter of Prince and narghiles. This was all that I Serges Troubetzkoy. had to do, while I was well dressed - Prince Nicholas was the youngest of in cloths and silks, and had plenty of five sons, and lived with his brother leisure time. After a service of eigh- André, not far from the Italian theateen months with Yousouf Effendi, he tre, both of them being single. . gave me to his younger brother, You- While in this service, I was baptized in St. Petersburg, November 12, 1855, tel of New York City. Adjoining it into the Greek Church, my name being was a small theatre, or glass house, changed from Mohammed-Ali-Ben-Said containing tropical fruits, and a meto Nicholas Said. Prince Nicholas nagerie, where I first saw a llama, and was my godfather. I shall always feel the interior of the palace was lined with grateful, so long as I live, for Prince pictures and statues. It was a magNicholas's kindness to me; but I can- nificent building, but was getting to be not help thinking that the way I was quite old, and the Prince used to talk baptized was not right, for I think that of repairing it, though he remarked it I ought to have known perfectly well would cost many thousand roubles. the nature of the thing beforehand. This estate contained many thousand Still, it was a good intention the acres, and four good-sized villages, and Prince had toward my moral welfare. was about eight miles square. I had After I was baptized he was very kind here some of the happiest days of my to me, and he bought me a solid gold life. cross to wear on my breast, after the About this time I went with the Russian fashion. I was the Prince's Prince to Georgia, - his brother-in-law, personal servant, going always in the a general in that department, having carriage with him.
been wounded by the Circassians unAs the Czar Nicholas was godfather der Schamyl. We reached Tiflis, the to the Prince, he had free access to the capital of Georgia, in January, and repalace. Though he had several chances mained there until after the capture to become minister at some European of Kars by the English and Turks. court, he always refused, preferring to While in the Caucasus, the Prince vislive a life of inaction. His health, how- ited some of the neighboring parts ever, was not very good, and he was of Persia, including Teheran and some very nervous. I have seen him faint smaller towns, and he returned to Russcores of time in Russia ; but when he sia by way of Novgorod. left Russia, his health began to improve After the death of Czar Nicholas, very much.
Alexander, his successor, gave the Everybody acquainted with Russia Prince permission to travel where he knows that Czar Nicholas used to chose, without limit of time, and on make all the aristocracy tremble at his the 24th of February he started, going feet. No nobleman, to whatever rank first to Warsaw, and thence, via Crahe might belong, could leave the coun- cow, to Vienna. Here I remained for try without his consent, and paying a two months, in charge of his effects, certain sum of money for the privilege. while he visited a sister in Pesth, in This measure of the Czar was not very Hungary. On his return we went to well liked by the nobility, but his will Prague, and thence to Dresden. At was law, and had to be executed with- this place, I was greatly bothered by out grumbling.
the children. They said that they had Prince Troubetzkoy had several never seen a black man before. But times made application for permission the thing which most attracted them to travel, but without success, so long was my Turkish dress, which I wore all as Czar Nicholas lived; for he hated the time in Europe. Every day, for liberal ideas, and feared some of his the three weeks we remained in Dressubjects might, in the course of time, den, whenever I went to take my walk introduce those ideas from foreign I was surrounded by them to the numcountries into Russia.
ber of several hundred. To keep myThe Prince passed the summer sea- self from them, I used to ride in a carson outside of the city, a distance of riage or on horseback, but this was too about twenty-five versts, at a splendid expensive. I thought the way I could residence of his own, a marble house do best was to be friendly with them. about the size of the Fifth Avenue Ho- So I used to sit in the garden and speak with them, – that is, those who he has for beating his servants. While could understand French. They took he was in Vienna he was worsted in an a great liking to me, for I used some- attempt to chastise a Hungarian foottimes to buy them fruits, candies, and man, but he would not quit the pracother things, spending in this way a tice, and has paid several fines imposed large amount. Prince Troubetzkoy had by law in consequence. a brother, Prince Vladimir, living in Our next stopping-place was Rome, Dresden, a very handsome and a very where the Prince remained for the winexcellent man, but suffering from con- ter, making meanwhile a short visit to sumption. He treated me very kindly, Naples, and leaving in the spring for and when we left gave me several very Paris. We were in Paris when the interesting books, both religious and Prince Imperial was born, and stayed secular.
until his christening, which was a very From Dresden we went to Mu- important day there. I remember well nich, thence to' Baden-Baden, Wiesba- the wonder of a young Russian serden, Coblenz, Cologne, Aix-la-Chapelle, vant-girl, that France should have still Brussels, and Ostende ; then, return- so many soldiers as appeared in the ing to Brussels, visited the field of Wa- procession, - a fraction only, of course, terloo, and proceeded to Switzerland, of her army, - after losing so many in passing through Berne, Interlachen, the Crimea. The Prince always took over the Jura and St. Gothard's, to a great pride in dress, both for himZurich. From Zurich we went to Co- self and his servants, and particularly mo in Lombardy, where the Prince's here. I was always dressed in Turkish eldest brother, Alexander, had a villa costume, embroidered with gold, and on the borders of the lake. After a never costing less than two or three short stay here, we went on to Verona, hundred dollars. and then to Milan, where I was left After a three months' stay in Paris while the Prince made a short visit to we went to London, where the Prince Venice. Here, while left alone, I did took rooms at a first-class boardingnot behave as well as I might have house; but he was invited almost all the done, sometimes drinking too much time to different country seats, where I and spending my money foolishly. had very gay times, for the English Here also I saw, for the first time servants live better than any in Eusince leaving Africa, a countryman. rope. He was named Mirza, and was born At the conclusion of his English visabout thirty-five miles from Kooka, it, the Prince returned to Baden-Baden, mry native place. He was considera- this time renting a house. While there bly older than I, and had been away Napoleon III. passed through the place from Africa some fifteen years. He on his way to meet the Czar Alexanwas waiting on a Venetian Marquis der; and Prince Troubetzkoy was sumwhose name I have forgotten. moned to Frankfort-on-the-Main to at
After a stay of four weeks in Milan, tend on the latter. Here I was one we started, via Genoa, Leghorn, and day told by the Prince to dress myself Pisa, for Florence. Here I attended in my best, and go to the Russian Ammy master at two levees, - one at the bassador's to wait on the Emperor at palace of the Grand Duke of Tus- dinner. There were present beside the cany, where I believe I had a better two Emperors, the King of Wurtemtime than the Prince, and the other at berg, the Grand Dukes of Baden, Hesse Prince Demidoff's. This latter gentle Darmstadt, and Nassau, the Ministers man is a very wealthy Russian, and is of France and Belgium, the Burgomasvery widely known. He is not a no- ter of Frankfort, Messrs. Rothschild, bleman in Russia, however, but has his and many others. A splendid dinner title from the Grand Duke. He is well was served at six o'clock, the usual known for the disagreeable propensity Russian dinner-hour, and was followed
by a ball, which continued until two in with tears in his eyes, and said: “Said, the morning. A day previous to the I wish you good luck; you have served monarch's departure Prince Gortcha- me honestly and faithfully, and if ever koff handed my master thirty thalers misfortune happens to you, remember I as a present for me.
shall always be, as I always have been, About this time I began to think interested in you.” I, with many tears, of the condition of Africa, my native replied that I was exceedingly thankful country, how European encroachments for all he had bestowed on me and might be stopped, and her nationalities done in my behalf, and that I should united. I thought how powerful the pray for him while I lived. I felt truly United States had become since 1776, sorry to leave this most excellent Prince. and I wondered if I were capable of per- As I was leaving, he gave me as a pressuading the kings of Soodan to send ent two fifty-pound bills. It was many several hundred boys to learn the arts days before I overcame my regret. Ofand sciences existing in civilized coun- ten I could hardly eat for grief. tries. I thought that I would willingly I now went to board at the Strangers' sacrifice my life, if need be, in realiz- Home, at the, West India Dock, five ing my dreams. I cried many times at miles from where the Prince stopped. the ignorance of my people, exposed to Here I waited for a steamer for Africa. foreign ambition, who, however good Hardly had I been there two weeks, warriors they might be, could not con- when a gentleman from Holland protend against superior weapons and tac- posed to me a situation to travel with tics in the field. I prayed earnestly to him in the United States and West be enabled to do some good to my India Islands. I had read much about race. The Prince could not but see these countries, and my desire to see that I was very sober, but I never told them caused me to consent, and we left him my thoughts.
Liverpool soon after New Year's, 1860. We stayed at Baden-Baden all sum- With this gentleman I went via mer and part of the fall, and then left Boston and New York to New Provifor Paris. The Prince made this jour- dence, Long Keys, Inagua, Kingston, ney to visit his niece, who had just Les Gonaives, St. Marc, Demerabeen married to the Duc de Morny, ra, Martinique, Guadeloupe, and then formerly the French Ambassador to back to New Providence, and from Russia. She was a most beautiful per- there by steamer to New York. We son, only seventeen years of age. I remained in New York two months, was taken to see her, and kiss her and then visited Niagara, Hamilton, hand, according to custom. She at first Toronto, Kingston, Montreal, Quebec, hesitated to give me her hand, undoubt- and Ottawa, until, finally, at a small edly being afraid. I had never seen village called Elmer, my employer's her in Russia, as she was at the Im- funds gave out, and I lent him five perial University, studying. After two hundred dollars of my own money. weeks we again left Paris for Rome, via Of this five hundred I received back Switzerland, again passed the summer only three hundred and eighty, and at Baden-Baden, again visited Paris, this failure compelled me to remain and various other points, until the year in this country and earn my living by 1859 found the Prince again in Lon- work to which I was unaccustomed.
My desire to return to my native At this point the written narrative of country had now become so strong, that Nicholas ends, at some date during the I here told the Prince I must go home year 1861. He afterward went to Deto my people. He tried to persuade me troit, and taught a school for those of to the contrary, but I was inflexible in his own color, meeting there, I believe, my determination. After he found that a clergyman whom he had seen years I was not to be persuaded, he got up before in Constantinople, while a servant to Prince Mentchikoff. At Detroit tered out with the company in which he he enlisted in a colored regiment in the served, in the fall of 1865. But, alas summer of 1863. He served faithfully for his plans of service to his countryand bravely with his regiment as corpo- men in his native land ! like many a ral and sergeant in the Department of warrior before him, he fell captive to the South, and near the close of the war woman, married at the South, and for was attached, at his own request, to the some time past the writer, amidst the hospital department, to acquire some changes of business, has entirely lost knowledge of medicine. He was mus- sight of him.
BY-WAYS OF EUROPE.
FROM PERPIGNAN TO MONTSERRAT.
« O UT of France and into Spain," ulates the imagination, and is no detri
U says the old nursery rhyme; but ment to physical comfort. When, at at the eastern base of the Pyrenees breakfast, red mullet came upon the one seems to have entered Spain be- table, and oranges fresh from the tree, fore leaving France. The rich vine- I straightway took off my Northern plains of Roussillon once belonged nature as a garment, folded it and to the former country; they retain packed it neatly away in my knapsack, quite as distinct traces of the earlier and took out, in its stead, the light Moorish occupancy, and their people beribboned and bespangled Southern speak a dialect almost identical with nature, which I had not worn for some that of Catalonia. I do not remember eight or nine years. It was like a the old boundaries of the province, but dressing-gown after a dress-coat, and I noticed the change immediately after I went about with a delightfully free leaving Narbonne. Vine-green, with play of the mental and moral joints. the grays of olive and rock, were the There were four hours before the deonly colors of the landscape. The parture of the diligence for Spain, and tower, massive and perched upon ele- I presume I might have seen various vations, spoke of assault and defence; historical or architectural sights of Perthe laborers in the fields were brown, pignan; but I was really too comfortdark-haired, and grave, and the semi- able for anything else than a lazy meanAfrican silence of Spain seemed already dering about the city, feeding my eyes to brood over the land..
on quaint houses, groups of people full I entered Perpignan under a heavy of noise and gesture, the scarlet blosMoorish gateway, and made my way soms of the pomegranate, and the glitto a hostel through narrow, tortuous ter of citron-leaves in the gardens. A streets, between houses with projecting one-legged fellow, seven feet high, who balconies, and windows few and small, called himself a commissionnaire, insistas in the Orient. The hostel, though ed on accompanying me, and I finally ambitiously calling itself an hotel, was accepted him, for two reasons ; - first, filled with that Mediterranean atmos- he knew nothing whatever about the phere and odor which you breathe city; and secondly, tourists are so rare everywhere in Italy and the Levant, - that he must have been very poor. His a single characteristic flavor, in which, wooden leg, moreover, easily kept pace nevertheless, you fancy you detect the with my loitering steps, and though, as exhalations of garlic, oranges, horses, a matter of conscience, he sometimes cheese, and oil. A mild whiff of it stim- volunteered a little information, he took