relics of Roman magnificence; and Dr Shaw observed in the walls of a mosque, constructed of the original materials, a number of altars dedicated to heathen gods.* Still farther south are discovered, in a variety of situations, the vestiges of Roman towns, which, however, convey no information beyond the simple fact, that a civilized people, powerful in arms, were once masters of the country. The ruins of Arbaal, Memon, El Herba, Maliana, and Aqua Calida Colonia, forcibly recall the descriptions of classical authors. In the vicinity of the station last named, are several tombs and coffins of stone, containing, if the narratives of the inhabitants might be believed, skeletons and armour of a much larger size than could belong to men of modern times. The usages of the Goths and Vandals, who not unfrequently buried the horse and the rider in one grave, may account for the huge bones and long swords still found in that section of Africa, and at the same time illustrate the fine verses of the poet, "Agricola incurvo terram molitus aratro, VIRG. GEORG. lib. i. v. 494. "Then, after length of time, the lab'ring swains And mighty relics of gigantic bones."- DRYDEN. The country around, possessed by various tribes, presents a succession of exceedingly rugged hills and deep valleys, very difficult and even dangerous to pass over. Yet, says the best of our travellers, this * Travels in Barbary, vol. i. p. 69. danger and fatigue are amply compensated by visiting the delightful plains of the Hadjoute and Metijah, which lie beyond them; those of the latter being nearly fifty miles long and twenty broad, and watered in every part by numerous springs and rivulets.* Ascending to the coast, and turning towards Algiers, we arrive at the celebrated town of Oran, the possession of which was so long contested between the Spaniards and the Moors. It is described as being built upon the declivity, and near the foot of a mountain, which overlooks it from the north and west. On the high ground are two castles, which command the city on the one side, and the MarsaKebir on the other; while, on a lower level, are two forts, separated from the houses by a deep winding valley, which serves as a natural trench on the south. Hence it is manifest that this seaport is capable of an easy defence, and might be held by a small European garrison in spite of the utmost exertions of the natives. This description, given on the authority of Shaw, is confirmed by the details of M. Rozet, who spent some time at Oran after the conquest of Algiers. The town, according to him, occupies two elongated platforms, separated from each other by a steep valley, in which there runs a stream sufficiently strong to turn several mills, and to supply the inhabitants with abundance of water. The annexed view, taken by him on the spot, will assist the imagination of the reader in forming an idea of this remarkable station. When the French army advanced to take possession of Oran, all the occupants of the town, with the exception of 300 or 400, saved themselves by flight, carrying with them their property, wives, and children. The Jews alone remained, and have proved faithful to their new masters; showing, on various occasions, not less attachment to their cause than military talent in defending it. Rozet conjectures that the population, before this dispersion, must have amounted to between 5000 and 6000, consisting of Moors, Arabs, Negroes, Turks, Jews, and Koulouglis, whose habits, he found, differed little from those of the same classes in Algiers. Before this intelligent officer left the place, many of the Mohammedans had returned to resume their occupations, while the peasantry, finding protection and encouragement, were again venturing to market with their corn, butter, poultry, and eggs. The inhabitants appeared, in his eyes, to deserve the reputation of courage; and having been allowed to retain their arms, they never laid them aside, however they might happen to be employed. The dealers in the shops had muskets by their sides; and the waiters in coffee-houses had a dagger or a pair of pistols suspended to their girdles. But, he adds, they never used them against the French.* The Spaniards, first time they were in possession of this place, built several beautiful churches and large edifices in the style of the Romans; carrying their imitation so far as to carve upon the friezes and other convenient parts a variety of inscriptions in their own language. But neither at Oran nor Voyage dans la Regence d'Alger, tome iii. p. 274. Eh bien! ils ne s'en sont jamais servis contre les Français. |