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They were found in the vicinity of Lyons. The subject of one is thought to be a burlesque representation of the gymnastic exercises ; the other, which is in perfect preservation, represents a chariot race in the circus; it is above twenty feet long. A long catalogue of treasures, in marble, bronze, and terra cotta, all and each highly interesting, were pointed out to us by M. Artaud, the director of the Museum, to whose taste and indefatigable zeal and activity it owes much of its celebrity. Its valuable contents are arranged and classed with a precision that greatly facilitates their inspection, while its perfect cleanliness and ventilation render it a most agreeable morning lounge.
M. Artaud possesses a valuable collection of antiquities in his private apartments, which those who have the advantage of his acquaintance are permitted to inspect: and his profound knowledge and love of the fine arts, and unerring judgment in antiquities, render his society a rich treat to all who have the pleasure of enjoying it.
15th.-Two considerable rivers, the Saône and Rhône, traverse or border Lyons in its whole length. The first, which is slow in its course, bathes the base of the mountain Fourvière, on the lower part of which many of the houses are situated, and then bends gracefully from the Faubourg of Vaise to that of St. Irène; while the Rhône flows rapidly, and almost in a straight line, separating the town from the promenade of Britteaux, and from the Faubourg la Guillotière. Its junction with the Saône occurs at the southern extremity of Lyons, and below the Allée Perruche. There is no river whose banks present more beautiful landscapes than the Rhône, which, in its rapid course, may be likened to some gay votary of pleasure, hastening from one scene of beauty to another, scarcely pausing to admire one, ere he seeks some newer charm.
The city is commanded by two mountains: that of Fourvière, which is on the right bank of the Saône; and St. Sebastien, which rises to the north, between the Rhône and the Saône. The streets are for the most part narrow, and, like the generality of those of French towns, extremely dirty. The squares are on a grand scale; but the houses appear in such bad condition, as do also the public buildings, that they present a miserable contrast to the style in which they were projected. The mountain Fourvière, which crowns the rows of houses built against its base, offers a variety of rural spots, groves, rocks, vineyards, and orchards, interspersed with tasteful villas; and its vicinity to a large commercial city is of incalculable advantage. The church of Notre Dame, and the house called Antiquailles, are two of the objects to which a cicerone leads a stranger : the first of these buildings occupies the place of the ancient Forum Trajani, or Forum Veneris ; and the second, that of the palace of the Roman emperors. It was named Antiquailles, from the number of antiquities discovered on the spot, and is at present, as before stated, an Asylum for Lunatics.
The beautiful altar, discovered in 1705 on the mountain of Fourvière, is worthy of notice: it has
three fronts; the principal one is ornamented with a bull's head, decorated with fillets for the sacrifice, and has part of an inscription; the second front has the head of a ram, which, antiquarians assert, proves that this bull offering was similar to that offered in memory of Atys, to whom that animal was sacrificed ; the third front bears the crooked sword of sacrifice, made in the form of the harp with which Perseus cut off Medusa's head. Over the sword is the following inscription, which I copied for the benefit of antiquarians :
FACTUM EST. V. ID. DEC.
The other inscription, which is very legible, is as follows:
TAVRO BOLIOMATRISD. M. I. D.
L. AEMILIVS CARTVS IUIVIR AVGIHM
(Here is the figure of a bull's head.)
VIRES EXCEPITET AVATICANOTRAS
TVLIT ARA ET BVCRANIVM
Q. SAMMIO SECVNDO AB. XVVIRIS
CVI SANCTISSIMUS ORDO LVGDVNE
PERPETVIATEM SACERDOTI DE CREVNI
APP. ANNIO. ATILO BRADVAT CLODVI BIOIT
L, D. D. D.
The quadrangular court belonging to the Museum is filled with antiquities, in alto and basso relievo, and with various inscriptions, inserted in the walls. Of the wrecks of former ages in the vicinity of Lyons, none is more interesting than the remains of the celebrated aqueduct constructed by Mark Antony, to furnish the inhabitants with water. Their extent is estimated at more than thirteen leagues, owing to their winding, though there are only eight in a straight line. Six of the arcades of the aqueduct are still standing near the gate of St. Irenæus, and add much to the picturesque effect of the view. The country through which the aqueduct passed being intersected by a number of valleys, which prevented its being carried in a direct line, it was found expedient to erect several bridges ; the finest of which now remaining are those that form the tenth and eleventh series, of which sixty-two are still in preservation.
The ancient castle of Francheville, now in ruins, with some other gothic buildings, form a fine contrast with the Roman remains. The roads are bordered with hedges of hawthorn, privet, wild cherry-trees, and honey-suckle, and the hills around are covered by vineyards; while the rivers are seen winding along, like silver serpents, through the rich fields, at one
inoment visible, and then hid by a wood or vineyard. The snow-crowned Alps, bounding the horizon, complete this very fine picture.
The silk manufactories here appear in a flourishing condition. Several specimens of rich furniture, in brocaded satin and silk, were shown us.
But the prices were high, and the materials not so superior to our own as might be expected from the inuch greater demand in France than in England. I am persuaded that, with due encouragement, our silk manufactories might, in a short time, compete with those of France; and I trust we may soon be patriotic enough to give to our artizans that encouragement, instead of, as now, employing the looms at Lyons, and expending hundreds abroad that might be productive of so much beneficial influence at home.
I saw several orders for hundreds of yards of silk furniture, from many individuals of my acquaintance; and they were displayed with an air that indicated a belief that England could not supply similar productions. With the industry and skill of our mechanics there is nothing which they could not, with proper encouragement, effect. Why, then, should they not meet with it from those whose duty it is to offer it?
VIENNE, 17th.—So here we are at Vienne, one of the most ancient cities of the Gauls, and a place once remarkable, though now little so, except for the picturesque beauty of its situation, and the interesting fragments of antiquity in its vicinity. M. Artaud recommended our sojourning here for some time, to explore its environs, which he says are charming. But