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extensive, contains many valuable specimens of shrubs, plants, and flowers, as well as trees. The palm trees are large and healthy, and the tea and coffee trees, the latter covered with berries, thrive well.
FREJUS, 28th.-The country between Toulon and this place is the most interesting that we have yet traversed in France, particularly towards the latter part of it. Large rocks are scattered along, nearly covered with aloes of luxuriant growth, which add much to the picturesque effect of the scenery. The entrance to Frejus is very striking. To the right, a fine view of the sea presents itself; and to the left, some remains of Roman buildings, consisting of a pile of broken colonnades. The ruins of an amphitheatre, an arch, a temple, and an aqueduct, are still visible: the latter must have been of considerable extent, as many of its arches remain, the intervals between them filled up by fragments of stone overgrown with ivy, or broken by groups of olive trees, mingled with the melancholy cypress, which harmonizes well with these interesting monuments of antiquity. I have never seen a more picturesque scene than was here presented to me. The blue waters of the Medi. terranean, sparkling like sapphire beneath the
of the sun, spread themselves out until their hues mingle in the far distant horizon with the fainter blue of the clouds, while innumerable white sails are wafted over their surface, looking like birds skimming some immense lake. When the eye turns to the other side of the picture, snatches of a rich landscape are seen through the different arches of the ruins, which are festooned with ivy and drooping wreaths of wild flowers. There is no such beautifier of scenery as Time; he wreathes the ruin with parasitical plants and gives to the oak its grandeur. Beneath his touch the feudal castle loses its harshness and the abbey receives a more mellowed tint. It is on us poor mortals alone that his power is terrific; for in destroying every beauty, he gives not even a picturesque effect to the ruins he has made. Who ever saw a picturesque looking old man or woman except in a picture? and to produce this effect, the painter is obliged more to imagine than to imitate.
Frejus was much favoured by Cæsar, who commenced a port here which was completed by Augustus. It is reputed to have been of immense extent, and it is said that Augustus sent to it three hundred vessels taken from Antony at the battle of Actium. A fleet was kept here, which served to defend the coast as far as Marseilles ; so that this now deserted place was once considered an important one by the masters of the world. Here was born Julius Agricola, the conqueror of Britain and the father-in-law of Tacitus the historian. Conqueror of Britain ! I do not like the sound; it is, God be thanked, one unknown to English ears for many a century. May it ever, ever, so continue !
It was at this port that Napoleon landed in 1799, on his return from his unsuccessful expedition in Egypt; and that he embarked, in 1814, to take possession of his narrow dominion at Elba. Frejus could, therefore, have no agreeable associations for his mind, being the scene of two of the most mortifying events in his life. The climate of Frejus is considered to be peculiarly unhealthy ; yet the appearance of the place, or its inhabitants, bears no indication of the truth of this imputation. The soil is fertile and the sea breezes invigorating, so that the insalubrity of the neighbourhood appears to be an unaccountable phenomenon.
CANNES, March 2nd.—Nothing can
be more agreeable than the situation of the Pinchinat, the inn where we have taken up our abode for a few hours : it fronts the sea, of which it commands an extensive view, with the islands of St. Marguerite and St. Honorat, which seem placed as if to guard it. I should like to visit St. Marguerite, to see the chamber in which that, as yet, unsolved enigma of modern history-the man with the iron mask-was confined ; but the sea is too rough for so timid a sailor as I am to venture on to-day, even for the gratification of my feminine curiosity.
The route from Frejus to this place passes through a very picturesque country, and affords a fine view of the sea and land. The mountains of St. Tropez and Lestrelles add much to the beauty of the prospect. As we approached nearer to Cannes, cedars were mingled with the orange and lemon trees, which, even at this early season, look well. Of all that I have seen of France, this part of it is by far the most beautiful, and resembles the notion I have formed of Italy. The bench is animated by groups of fishermen busily employed in arranging their boats, while the women are seated on benches that front the sea, placed close to the long row of mean houses in which they reside, occupied in knitting, making nets, or in plying the distaff. Their dress, although sadly deficient in cleanliness, is picturesque, and the huge piles of fruit exhibited near them for sale adds to the picture.
At a short distance from Cannes, one of our postillions pointed out the place where Napoleon landed on his disastrous return from Elba.
“ He took some slight refreshment," said the man, “ and then bivouacked on that spot;" directing our attention to a small field surrounded by olive trees close to the beach. Nothing could be more beautiful than the scene, the tranquil character of which must have offered a painful contrast to the internal agitation of its beholder---returned to the country that had rejected him, to plunge it in all the miseries of a civil war and to accelerate his own destruction.
Nice, 4th.--I never saw any scenery that could surpass that which presents itself to the
eye on crossing the mountains that lead to Antibes; and the eye is not the only organ of sense that is gratified, for the most grateful odours are inhaled at every step. The arbutus, myrtle, and jessamine grow in wild profusion at each side of the road, and the turf is bedded with wild thyme and innumerable other odoriferous plants and heaths that exhale their perfumes. Orange trees are seen in greater abundance as Antibes is approached, and the dark green of their foliage relieves the sombre hue of the olive. Antibes has nothing to recommend it except its situation, and the port, which is of a circular form, with an extensive quay, and a range of
arcades whose whiteness and good proportions have a light and elegant effect. Viewed from the distance, these arcades appear isolated, and look like fairy palaces rising from the sea. Two Roman towers must also be noticed, an examination of which cannot fail to gratify an antiquarian.
The prospect from the height above Antibes is one of the finest I have ever seen.
Hills covered with wood, whence a spire, village, or chateau, is seen to peep forth—the blue waters of the Mediterranean spread out in front, and the snow-crowned mountains of the maritime Alps rearing their heads to the clouds, form a magnificent picture.
From Antibes to Nice the road passes through a beautiful country, the sea always in view-at one turn of the route seen through trees, and at the next boldly dashing against the shore. At St. Laurent du Bar a long wooden bridge spans the river Var, which divides France from Piedmont. At this boundary a custom-house is established.
5th.—The situation of this place justifies its reputation as a healthful residence ; yet the climate is much less genial than I was led to expect, for though we have a cloudless sky and sunshine, a piercing wind meets one at the corner of every street, and reminds one that an extra pelisse or shawl is very requisite. I cannot think that Nice can be a suitable winter residence for consumptive people, unless they confine themselves to the house, or only venture out in a close carriage. The town is so built that those who traverse it are exposed to frequent and violent currents of air,