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abundant, that many families make it their winter residence.
The cathedral is worthy of notice, for its admirably carved doors and its fine remains of ancient architecture. The cloisters are very interesting. They form a square, in the centre of which is an open space; the arcades are supported by double columns of good proportions and excellent workmanship, the capitals of which are of different orders, some crowned by grotesque figures and others by foliage. In one of the aisles of the church a circular dome has been erected, sustained by eight stupendous Corinthian columns, six of which are of marble and two of granite. They are very ancient, and were formerly appropriated to some other building. Fine as they are, they must be acknowledged to be misplaced in their present situation.
A curious picture, said to be painted by King Réné, ornaments the church. It is inclosed in a very singular old frame, which opens in the centre; and on fète days, or on the visit of strangers, it is unlocked, that the picture may be seen. The memory of the good King Réné is still reverenced at Aix, and his accomplishments as a poet, painter, and musician, are recorded. He was a warm encourager of, if not one of the Troubadours of Provence; and Jane de Laval, his consort, emulated him in her love of the fine arts. Aix was also the residence of Raimond Berenger, of the House of Barcelona and last Count of Provence. He was an admirer and patron of poetry, and is said to have cultivated the gentle art with no mean skill ; but for this assertion we have only tradition, as no specimen of his verses is given by St. Pelaie. Beatrix,
Countess of Provence, his wife, is included among the Troubadours, and the only specimen of her poetry given by no means justifies this distinction, either in the sentiment or expression, for it contains an encouragement to a timid lover, that argues little for the modesty of the writer. Beatrix was celebrated for her beauty, talents, and generosity. To her husband the poets owed an exemption from all public taxes. was this Raimond who was reproached by Dante, in in his sixth canto, “ del Paradiso," for his conduct to Romieu, in which the ingratitude not unfrequently attributed to the great towards those who have served them, was said to have been strongly marked. It is, however, but justice to add, that Raimond becoming subsequently sensible of his error, generously recompensed the services of Romieu by the grant of the town of Vence and other possessions. A considerable portion of the exterior of the church is highly decorated in the florid gothic style. An octagon tower, the most ancient part of the building, is of plain and simple architecture, more remarkable for solidity than for beauty.
19th.-Delivered our letters of introduction to the Marquis de L. and to M. Revoil, which brought us both these gentlemen shortly after, with polite offers of enacting the parts of ciceroni to us during our sojourn here.
There are no less than seven private collections of objects of art and antiquity at Aix, each and all worthy of attention ; but M. Revoil's is the most perfect of its kind. It embraces pictures and enamels
by the earliest masters with those of a late date, forming a series illustrative of the history of the progress of the two arts. Among the enamels we noticed the portrait of Diane de Poitiers with a child : they are drawn as Venus and Cupid, and nothing can be more graceful or happily portrayed. It would be tedious to enumerate even a quarter of the treasures in this collection; in which are comprised ancient armour chased and ornamented, warlike implements of every description, armoires of finely carved ebony filled with all the paraphernalia of female toilets of early date; mirrors of polished steel, pins, combs, rings, and costly ornaments; vases enriched with antique gems, small busts of onyx, sardonyx, and white cornelian, set with precious stones; daggers mounted with carved handles of ivory, mother-of-pearl, steel, amber, silver and gold, many of them with jewelled settings; watches of every age, keys of every description ; and, in short, every object of art and taste, from the grand to the minute, that could serve as specimens of the articles used in
All the things are so well classed and arranged, that they serve to form a sort of history of each century, by displaying the objects of use and luxury, and marking the progressive improvement made in them.
M. Revoil is considered one of the best modern French painters, and at Paris his pictures are eagerly sought and liberally purchased by the most fastidious connoisseurs. On looking at his collection, one is surprised that so extensive and choice a one could have been brought together in the life of one individual, or by a person whose wealth was not very great;
the past ages.
but it is a proof of what industry, indefatigable zeal, and good taste can accomplish when they are combined. The fifteenth century was, indeed, an epoch rich in art; and the beautiful specimens of it here assembled impress the beholder with an increased veneration for the worthies of that period, and the artists who wrought for them.
20th.-M. Revoil accompanied us in our peregrinations to-day, and it would have been impossible to have found a more enlightened or erudite cicerone. He has studied Aix and the different treasures it contains con amore, and explains them with a precision that leaves nothing to be desired. Our first visit was to the collection of Monsieur Sallier, which contains pictures, statues, Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman antiquities, vases, lacrymatories, and sarcophagi, all of great rarity and beauty. The gem of his collection is a small statue of Jupiter found at Orange, which for dignity and expression could not be surpassed by a statue of large dimensions. It is partly draped, and the execution of the folds is admirable.
The collection of the Marquis L. is confined to medals, in which it is very rich. The owner exerted towards us all the attention which the French are never backward in paying to those well recommended to them, and has impressed us with a very favourable opinion of his hospitality.
We have had nothing to complain of at Aix, except the impossibility of procuring either cream or butter, or, at least, any that is palatable. There is only one
cow in the town, which is the property of an English family settled here: and goats, of which there are an abundant stock, serve but as sorry substitutes, their
, milk destroying the flavour of tea and coffee. The inhabitants of Aix are quite satisfied with goat's milk, proclaim that it is far more wholesome and quite as agreeable ; but in the latter assertion I cannot coincide with them. The butter is brought from a distance and is abominable, but to its bad quality habit has inured the people here; and our landlady seemed to think us very fastidious when we desired it to be removed from the table, where its odour was really offensive.
MARSEILLES, 22nd.— Travelling is the true secret of multiplying enjoyment by furnishing a succession of new objects.
I feel this as fresh scenes are presented to me, keeping the mind in a continual state of agreeable excitement without fatiguing it. The approach to Marseilles is striking, and the first view caught of the sea from a steep hill at some distance is truly grand. The blue waters extend boldly to the left, until they are seen mingling and confounded with the distant horizon; while, to the left, Marseilles, with her forest of masts and stately buildings, bounds the prospect. Villas thickly scattered round the environs greatly ornament the scene, by affording a pleasing contrast to the view. The quays offer a never-failing object of interest. Here crowds of persons of all nations may be daily seen, all apparently absorbed in business :--the Turk and Armenian, in their pictu