tion of this apparently impolitic praise, malgré his glances, he said,

"You forget, ma chère, when you talk of the English never passing any mauvaises plaisanteries on the respectable countenances of Monsieur Petrarch and Madame Laura, the two mauvais sujets that, with a burnt cork, gave a pair of large black mustachios to Madame Laura; and, with a red chalk, made the nose of Monsieur Petrarch redder than a tomato; ay, and gave him a pair of spectacles too. Why it took me full two hours to get them clean again!"

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Well, then, if they did in the innocent gaiety naturally excited by two bottles of your best champagne, take a little liberty with the faces of the busts, did they not throw you down twenty francs extra, to pay, as they said, for whitewashing the faces ?"

28th.-Avignon is really an agreeable place to persons who do not require the excitements peculiar to a great capital. The climate is good, except when the mistrael sets in; but even then, though the wind is remarkably cold, it is rarely accompanied by rain, and the sky is as bright and unclouded as in summer.

House-rent is extremely moderate here; a fine suite of apartments in a good hotel-by which I mean a private house of large dimensions, all such being designated as hotels-may be had, well furnished, for about fifty guineas a-year; and provisions of every kind are abundant, and may be purchased on reasonable terms. The country abounds with vineyards, and their produce serves the double purpose of warm

ing externally as well as internally, the stems and branches of the vine being used for firing. The odour, however, which they emit during combustion is rather disagreeable; at least, I find it so, although the inhabitants like it.

The inn, L'Hôtel de l'Europe, at which we have taken up our abode, is a very good one; and Madame Pieron, its mistress, leaves nothing undone to secure the comfort of her guests. This inn was many years ago the scene of an incident that gave rise to the comedy of the Deaf Lover, a piece which has had great success.

He

Monsieur Pieron, the son of our hostess, a valetudinarian, whose health admits not of attending to business, devotes his time to literary pursuits and antiquarian researches, the fruits of which are always at the service of those who seek his conversation. peculiarly piques himself on his knowledge of the English language; his pronunciation of which, however, joined to the habit of employing only the most erudite words, renders it difficult, if not impossible, to comprehend his discourse. He has read many English authors, and prefers the most pedantic, whose phraseology he has studied and adopted. But having conversed comparatively little with English people, his pronunciation of the difficult words he employs, has a most ludicrous effect.

29th. Our banker, Monsieur de L. and Madame son épouse, have been to call on us. They have invited us to their house, which they open once a week

to receive le beau monde of Avignon. Monsieur de L. appears well educated and sensible; and Madame has that ease of manner, joined to a desire to please, peculiar to her country women. They have offered us books, but of them we find no lack, having a large supply with us; and Avignon, among its other agrémens, possessing a good circulating library.

Rode out to-day; the weather very fine, the atmosphere clear, and not colder than the end of September in England.

30th.-Rode a considerable distance to-day, but the country around Avignon is for the most part so flat and uninteresting, as to offer little temptation to explore it. The peasantry here are a well-looking and healthy race; the men active and lively, with animated countenances; but the women, though generally possessing good features and fine hair, are so illshaped as to appear deformed. This defect is chiefly owing to their having their waists so short, that their petticoats are tied under their arms, which has a most disagreeable effect. They wear large hats, of a circular form, which serve as a parasol in summer, and an umbrella in winter; somewhat on the principle of the Irish peasant's inseparable great-coat, which, as he asserts, keeps out the heat in summer, and keeps it in in winter. Beneath this large hat, the women wear a transparent handkerchief, of a brown and yellow pattern, which passes over the forehead, and shades the eyes from the scorching beams of the summer's sun, and the not less destructive effects of the mistrael,

or vent de bise, to which they are exposed at all

seasons.

It is strange that the inhabitants of the south of France, although more liable to disease of the eyes than those of any other part, from the extreme heat and glare of the sun, as well as the pernicious influence of the mistrael, invariably use umbrellas of a deep rose colour, which must be very injurious to the sight, from the red shade they cast. On a wet day, the streets resemble vast beds of damask roses put in motion, and has a fantastic and pretty effect.

December 1st.-Went to see the hôtel de Crillon, the residence of him to whom the epithet Brave always applied, gives a lustre to his memory that time cannot destroy. How characteristic of, and honourable to, both the sovereign and subject was the letter written by Henri Quatre to Crillon: "Pends-toi, brave Crillon! nous avons combattu à Arques, et tu n'y étois pas." It is recorded that Henri Quatre, recapitulating before his court the names of the most distinguished warriors, placed his hand upon Crillon's shoulder, and said, "Messieures, voici le premier capitaine du monde."-" Vous en aves menti, sire, c'est vous," replied Crillon.

This noble mansion was much injured during the Revolution; since that epoch it has been sold, and is at present divided into two: but though its pristine splendour is greatly impaired, it still retains many marks of its former grandeur. The principal façade has been repaired, and is remarkably fine: the architraves of the door and windows are ornamented with

bold and well-executed bassi-relievi ; but owing to the extreme narrowness of the street in which the house stands, this beautiful façade is seen to little advantage. The vestibule is paved with marble of a mosaic pattern, and though injured still displays some portion of its original beauty; and the inner salon and entrance, which is of vast dimensions, has some of its panels left, which attest the richness of its former decorations. The gallery, which opens on a colonnade roofed with well-executed ornaments in cut stone, is entered from this apartment: its only ornament are some old busts, placed on curious brackets. The principal suite of rooms front the garden, which bears marks of having been worthy the mansion. The great salon on the ground-floor contains a curious and very handsome mantel-piece of enormous dimensions, supported by caryatides representing colossal females. It is executed in so bold a style that it conveys an impression of the liberal spirit of the brave owner of the hotel; and on beholding its ample hearth, the mind is carried back to the olden time, and to the princely hospitality of Crillon, when whole forests blazed to give a warm welcome to his gallant sovereign.

The delicacy and good taste of Crillon were admirably conspicuous in the manner of his reception of Henri Quatre in this mansion. That monarch having signified his intention of visiting Avignon, was entreated by Crillon to honour his hotel, by taking up his abode there during his stay. Henri declined, not wishing to put his favourite to the heavy expense of entertaining him and his suite; and declared his de

termination of resting at the principal auberge. Cril