Aix.-French and English Inn Dinners-Cathedral-Curious Paint-

ing by King Renné-Raimond Berenger, last Count of Provence,

and his Wife Beatrix-Mons. Revoil's Museum-Mons. Sallier's

—the Marquis L-'s-Want of Cream and Butter-Only one

Cow at Aix........................

MARSEILLES.-Chateau la Pannis-Coral Manufactories-the Mis-
trael, or Vent de Bise-Impress of a Seaport-English Sailors
227-229
TOULON.-Arsenal-Female Foreigners only admitted-the Galle-
riens-Convicts-Comte de St. Helene-Men-of-War-Le Royal
Louis, in which the Duchesse de Berri entered France-Harbour,
&c.
230-237

........................

FREJUS.-Favoured by Cæsar-Birth-place of Julius Agricola-
Scene of Napoleon's Landing from Egypt, and of his Embarkation
for Elba
238-239

CANNES.-Most beautiful Part of France-Napoleon........... 240

NICE.-Rout from Antibes-Climate not adapted for Consumption-
Count Andriani-Villa Franca-Lady Olivia Sparrow-Rev. Mr.
Way-Sir Thomas Maitland-Duc de Vallambrosa-Comte de
Rhode-Convent de Cimiers-Site of Ancient City of Cemene-
lion-Count Andriani's Sufferings from Gout-His Philosophy-
Grotto and Chateau of St. André-English Language and Litera-
ture Abroad-Shakspeare-Scott-Byron-Grotto de Falicon-
Remarks on Sight-seeing-English Cemetery-Chateau and
Grotto Neuf............
241-261

MENTONE.-Napoleon's Roads-Chapel of St. Catherine-Village

of Turbie-Its Ruins-Village of Monaco-Roque Brune-

Chateau Monaco-Cathedral of Mentone-Chateau Cupouana-

Religious Procession-Lady Bute's Teapot-Costume of the

Women-Castel Dacio, on the Road to Ventimiglia―Bridge of

St. Louis

262-270

VENTIMIGLIA.-Female Costume-Church on the Beach-Custom
of opening Churches all Day......

ONEGLIA.-Mules and Muleteers-The Human Skull-Port Mau-

rice

..........

........

...

.............

271-274

275-278

NOLI.-Glorious Sunrise-Scene at the Inn-Procession of White

Penitents.....

279-282

VOLTRI.-Change Mule-travelling for Coaches-Anticipation of Re-

ception by Lord Byron, at Genoa

283

GENOA.-First View-Its Appearance-Arrive at Night-Magnifi-
cent Religious Procession-The Inn, Alberga de Villa-Lord
William Russell-First Interview with Lord Byron-A Disap-
pointment-Lord Byron described-His reception of the Autho-
ress-Position of Genoa-The Apennines-Magnificence of Pa-
laces-Picturesque Attire of the Women-The Mazero-Flower
Market-Jewels and Dress of the Women-Visit from Lord
Byron-His Abandon in Conversation-His Abuse of England-
His Freedom from Conceit-He Dines with the Authoress-
Death of Count Andriani at Nice-Palazzo Serra-Culinary
Operations in the Streets-Death of Lord Mountjoy-Byron's
dislike of Cant-His Affectation of the nil admirari-His Love
of Flowers-His Charity-His surprising Memory-His Horse-
manship-Contrasts of Splendour and Squalidness throughout
the City-Byron decided on going to Greece-Captain Wright
- Mr. Hill, British Minister to Sardinia-King of Sardinia's
Visit to Genoa-Monks in the Streets-Byron's Opinion of Music
and Botany- Church of St. Etienne-Byron's Sensitiveness-
Church of St. Lorenzo-The Sacro Catino-Church of St. Am-
brose-Misery of Headaches-Their Advantages-Byron's Con-
stitution injured by Abuse of Medicine-His anxiety to be thin
- His ascetic Habits-Lomelini Gardens - Byron introduces
Mr. Barry, the Banker-Doria Palace-Byron's proposed Plot
for a Tragedy on Andrea Doria- Account of the Countess
Guiccioli, by Mr. Barry-Byron and the Gambas — Affair at
Pisa-Reflections on Byron's Domestic Character as relates to
Lady Byron Causes of Separations in Wedded-life — Byron's
Suspicion of Colonel M., a friend of Lady Byron-His Mimicry
of Acquaintances - The Age of Bronze- Don Juan-Its pro-
posed Conclusion - The Opera - Byron denies his intention
of depriving Lady Byron of her Daughter-His Emotion and
Remarks on this Subject-He writes a Letter to this effect-
Always speaks of Lady Byron with respect-His Imagination
more exercised than his Affections-The Age of Bronze-The
Theatre Ambrogetti — No Notice taken of Royalty at the
Opera Byron's Indignation at some Attacks upon him in
Galignani Instance of his Superstition-Visit Il Paradiso
with Byron-His Impromptu-Political Discussions avoided at
Dinner Parties abroad-Political Patrons of Artists in England
-Markets - Flower Mart-Predominant Passion for Flowers

-

-

--

-

among Italians-Genoa from the Sea-Byron deterred from writing
a Tragedy on Fiesco-His Reflections on writing on a subject
handled by another-His Belief in his Premature Death-His
Desultory Reading-His Presentiment of Dying in Greece-His
Opinion that a Tomb in Westminster would not be denied him
-His Opinion of his Treatment in England-His admiration of
Mr. Trelawny-His Commendation of Mr. Canning-His Annoy-
ance at his own ill success as a Politician-His Excitability, pro-
bably a cause-Lord Blessington purchases Byron's Yatch, the
Bolivar-Authoress parts with Mameluke to Byron-Arrival of
Lady Hastings and Family, in the Glasgow, Ship-of-War-In-
stance of Byron's Parsimony-Visit to the Glasgow-Byron Dines
with Authoress for the last time-His Despondency on going to
Greece-His regret at leaving Italy, and the Countess Guiccioli-
Religious Festival-Procession-Religious Festival at a neigh-
bouring Village-Parting with Lord Byron-His Melancholy Pre-
sentiment
285-358

LUCCA. Beautiful Scenery on the Road from Genoa-Port of St.
Margaritta-Head-dress of the Women-Fire Flies-Italian Su-
perstition respecting them-Carrara-Its Marble-Busts of the
Duke of Wellington-Massa-Ramparts of Lucca, the favourite
Promenade of the Aristocracy-Their Equipages-The Women-
The Beaux-The Cathedral-The Palace..............................

358-363

THE

IDLER IN ITALY.

August 25th, 1822.-AND so I am leaving my home-my happy home !—There is something sad in the thought. I looked often at the pictures, and the various objects of use and decoration in the apartments, with a sort of melancholy feeling, that I had not anticipated I should experience on undertaking a pleasurable tour-a tour I have so long desired to make. Yet now, that the moment of departure is nearly arrived, I almost wish I were not going. Yes, the quitting home for an indefinite period, makes one thoughtful. What changes, what dangers may come, before I sleep again beneath its roof! Perhaps I may never-but I must not give way to such sad forebodings. The taking leave of friends is painful 5 even those whose society afforded little pleasure, assume a new interest in the moment of parting. We remember only their good qualities; but, perhaps, this oblivion of their defects proceeds from the anticipated release