venture among the Alps for the first time, and who are not of very robust health, should by no means omit the precaution of taking a warm suit with them, to be used as occasion may require. The usual weight carried by the guides, is from thirty-five to forty pounds, or upwards; so that the tourist may carry every convenient change of raiment along with him, and thus provide against those sudden variations of weather and temperature which are the natural characteristics of those lofty regions. Besides the items already mentioned, there are a few others necessary for the complete equipment of the tourist; but as our hints are fast swelling into pages, we must conclude for the present by referring him to the viva voce communications of some experienced adviser, and proceed with him on our projected route. Having thus far, as we trust, advanced sufficient arguments to put the traveller on his guard as to the dangers which may occasionally threaten him, if unmindful of good counsel; we now hasten to open a new leaf, and introduce him to those retired cantons where, as we remarked in an early portion of this work, the Switzer retains the stamp of his native character unimpaired; and where the valour and patriotism with which history and tradition have invested him are still the active principles of his existence. We shall there converse with him at his own hearth, listen to the inspiring history of his ancestral achievements, survey his battle fields, participate in his patriotic enthusiasm, visit the shrine of Tell, and, gazing upon the sublime scenery around us, cease to wonder that so thousands have imbibed inspiration from the same sight, and been impelled to the performance of deeds which have secured her liberties, and give a sacred character to the soil of Switzerland. many CANTON OF TESSIN, OR TICINO. "Here beauty and primeval nature dwell: Ever-green forests-fountains ever clear— FROM the Ponte Crevola, which closes the pass of the Simplon, we proceed successively through Domo d'Ossola, Villa, Vogogna; and, at Baveno, embark upon the lucid waters of the Lago Maggiore. We shall not detain the reader by LAGO MAGGIORE.-LOCARNO. 71 any studied description of this beautiful lake, or of the palaces which, as if conjured up by the wand of enchantment, emerge from its surface, and, with their thousand accompaniments of natural and artificial embellishments, recal to the spectator's mind the classic fables of Armida and the Hesperides. The scenery of this lake, as we ascend from the islands to re-enter the Confederation at Brissago, is perfectly Italian in character, exquisitely beautiful, and presents the strongest contrast that can be well imagined, with the scenes of grandeur and desolation through which we have just passed. Profusely scattered along its steep romantic shores, towns, villages, villas, convents, churches, and castellated rocks, follow in quick succession, and fill up a picture such as no other portion of Italy can exhibit. Forests of luxuriant chestnuts overshadow the flanks of the enclosing mountains, and, embrowned by the fervid summers of Italy, contrast well with the verdant pasturages of Switzerland. Passing the remains of some castellated edifices which stretch into the lake, we regain the Swiss frontier, at Brissago; and, gliding along that portion of the waters which pass under the distinctive appellation of the Lake of Locarno, land at the small town of Magadino, near the entrance of the Ticino into the lake, where the steam-boat, now plying, has its daily receipt and discharge of company. Opposite this station, the white buildings of Locarno skirting the lake, and the convent of Madonna del Sasso crowning the eminence beyond, add much interest, and some artificial touches of great effect, to the natural picture. The deep cærulean tint of the water, the brightness of the sky, the balmy freshness which is every instant wafted from a soil where the fig, the orange, the olive, and pomegranate reach maturity, stamp a luxuriance and serenity upon the scene, which surprise and fascinate every stranger. Several buildings of taste and elegance still bear evidence of the prosperity which shone upon Locarno in its better day; but the population is very thin compared with its ancient census, and, at most, counts but thirteen hundred inhabitants. Situated on the western shore of the Lake Maggiore, and defended from the keen blasts of the north, by a natural rampart of mountains, it enjoys a delicious, fertile, and exceedingly mild climate. The spring commences with March; the fields produce two crops, and, planted with elms at intervals of eight or nine feet, to which the vines are trained, the effect is strikingly picturesque. Were the industry of the inhabitants freed from the stagnating influences around, and directed into some remunerating channel, Locarno might still present a picture of happiness and prosperity; but the obstacles which oppose the due exercise and employment of those ample resources which Providence has placed at their disposal, are at present a dead weight upon * industry. Their principal traffic consists in wheat and wine, aided by the manufacture of clocks, hats, and strong cloths. Of the public buildings, the cathedral and three convents are the chief; of the latter, that of the Franciscans is the most remarkable. Belonging to the same order, is the Madonna del Sasso, which commands in its natural position one of the finest views in Italy. The vineyards around this eminence are particularly luxuriant. In consequence of the steam-boat lately launched upon the lake, and the great increase of traffic and tourists to which that epoch has given rise, Magadino seems fast rising into importance. The same agreeable testimony is presented wherever this great medium of intercourse has been established.-It was in the bailiwick of Locarno that, during the middle of the sixteenth century, the reformist party mustered so strong; and where Lelius and Faustus Socinus promulgated a creed far more liberal than those of Zuinglius and Calvin. They were both, however, expelled the country, and their adherents sentenced to banishment or death. Beccaria next presented himself as a distinguished teacher of the evangelical doctrines in Locarno; but the governor, who was of the catholic persuasion, caused him also to be imprisoned till a band of reformists, having assailed his castle, forced him to consent to Beccaria's liberation. Hereupon the governor, empowered by the seven catholic confederate cantons, issued an order for all conformists to attend mass; while those who refused to comply were sentenced to outlawry. Various scenes of mutual persecution and retaliation followed, till at last it was resolved to banish the whole body of reformists from Locarno. A decree was accordingly pronounced to this effect, in March, 1555, and one hundred and fifty of the reformists were summoned to the Town-hall, to hear, in silent submission, the passing of the sentence. No sooner had it been pronounced, than the Pope's nuncio, says the historian, precipitately entered the hall, and indignantly exclaimed :-"This is too mild a sentence. The exiles must be stripped of their property, nay, even of their children!" The catholic deputies, however, whose hearts were more susceptible of humanity than that of the minister of God, shrunk from the thought of such cruel severity, saying:-" We never reverse a sentence once pronounced!" Accordingly this unhappy band of exiles were driven from their homes, and compelled, at this inclement season, with their wives and young children, to cross the dreary and dangerous defiles of the Alps, and crave an asylum from the charity of strangers. More than a hundred of this proscribed colony, among • The View is taken from the edge of a ravine looking towards Bellinzona-the termination of the Lake is seen, and the Ticino gleaming as it winds along the level plain to enter the Lake. LUGANO-SCENERY AND RESOURCES. 73 whom were many affluent and learned men- such as Orelli, Muralt, and others were welcomed with true christian benevolence at Zurich, where their families are distinguished to the present day. It is worthy of remark that this simple act of expatriation, the art of weaving silk was first introduced into Zurich; mills and dyeing houses established; and so much contributed thereby to the industry and prosperity of the town, that its celebrity was soon extended far beyond the limits of Switzerland. From Magadino to Lugano, the road crosses Monte Cenere, and descends the course of the torrent of Agno, as far as the village of Taverne, where it branches off to the left. The scenery, as we approach Lugano, becomes exquisitely luxuriant, and in character purely Italian. From the road immediately overlooking the town,* we made an involuntary halt, as the splendid view which that point afforded suddenly opened upon us-enriched with luxuriant vineyards, through which the white buildings of the town rose in fine reliefthe lake expanded like a mirror, and reflected on its glassy surface the numberless beauties, natural and artificial, with which the shore is embellished; while Mont Salvadore rose on the right, and threw a chastening shadow over the whole scene. The surrounding mountains-of the third order-are richly wooded with chestnuts; while the plain offers an assemblage of every feature essential to the constitution of beautiful and picturesque landscapevineyards, meadows, orchards, gardens-scenes of beauty and fertility present themselves on either hand; while spacious villas, embowered in almond, olive, fig, and mulberry trees occupy every height, and give to the already animated picture the luxuries of art and the elegance of refined life. There was an air of bustle and commercial activity in the squares and streets of Lugano, which was peculiarly agreeable after the scenes of mental stagnation through which we had just passed. This town is an entrepôt for all merchandize received or sent across the St. Gothard, and in this manner a spirit of industry and emulation is kept constantly on the alert. The domestic manufactures consist of silk and tobacco, which are the most considerable. After these may be mentioned those of hats, tanneries, and various printing establishments—one of which issues every Monday the Gazette-Il Corriere del Ceresio. In the neighbourhood are several forges of copper and brass, also some establishments, where silk is manufactured by machinery of a highly ingenious • Our View is taken from this point, where the buildings seem to repose in the bosom of the Lake. Mont Salvadore is conspicuous on the right, with a chapel on the summit; while on the left the Lake recedes towards Porlozza. U construction. The great annual fair is held about the middle of October. The inhabitants are computed at three thousand seven hundred, or upwards. The environs abound in delightful promenades, all commanding objects and situations of great beauty or interest. Boating on the lake is a favourite pastime, and frequent parties are made to visit the caves hollowed in the rocks of Monte Caprino, where the cool air from the mountain preserves its extraordinary freshness during the greatest heats of summer. The ascent to Salvadore is steep, but rich in prospect, and much frequented by pilgrims. The collegiate church, situated upon a small eminence, is remarkable for the ornaments on its principal entrance. The Val-Levantine, another extensive district of this canton, consists of three divisions; the first, comprising the Valleys of Bédretto, Trémola, and Canaria: the second, the intermediate portion between the defile of Platifer and that of Chironico; the third, which enjoys the full advantage of an Italian climate in soil and produce, extends from Giornico to the Lago Maggiore. These three divisions comprehend all that can be imagined as characteristic of the severity of winter, the verdure of spring, with the beauty and abundance of summer and autumn. The whole valley is rich in subjects of natural history, and rife in political recollections. In remote times, the Upper Levantine formed the bed of a lake, which, by the bursting asunder of the rocky barrier within which it occupied a natural crater, was suddenly drained, and thereby submitted a new territory for the ambition of man. The mountain which, in 1512, fell across the Val-Blegno and blocked up the course of the river, gave origin to a lake which, after accumulating for two hundred years, at length burst its confinement, and sweeping every thing before it into the Lago Maggiore, added one more to the events of 1814-a momentous epoch for these valleys. The ground between Giornico, Chiggiogna, and Faido, is famous as the scene of the first victory which, by an ingenious device, carried the terror of the Swiss arms into Italy. The circumstances are briefly these :-Some Milanese subjects having one day ventured to fell timber in the Val-Levantine, a party of young men from Uri crossed the St. Gothard, and commenced a course of retaliation by pillaging the nearest villages. This outrage, instead of being prevented, was encouraged by the canton of Uri, and followed by a declaration of war against the Duke of Milan, an enterprise in which they called upon their confederates for support. The latter, failing in their endeavours to effect a reconciliation, yet unwilling to abandon their allies in a moment of no ordinary danger, despatched a body of troops to their assistance. In the meantime Borelli, the |